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Chain for Stihl 310

Started by DMax, October 08, 2005, 09:54:33 PM

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DMax

Hey guys, I just joined this forum after finding it a couple of days ago. What a great rescource! My first (of many) questions is about a good chain. Over the next couple of months I will be cutting a lot of hickory and maple. Some of it is for logs to have milled, but most is for firewood. these trees were knocked over by a tornado a little over 2 years ago, but are not touching the ground. I know they will be incredibly hard. Does anybody have a personal favorite. I have a 20" blade on my saw. I was looking at Baily's website (another recent find) and saw that you can but chain by the 100' roll. I would like to do this. Also, i saw the carbide "insert a sharp" links. Are these any good, or just a gimmick? O I guess it boils down to What chain and should I buy a long roll or get them individually? I wouls neet to buy the rivet breaker and spinner kit too.
Thanks for your help, David

beenthere

Big welcome to the forum, DMax  :)
I'd stick with the Stihl chain, probably full chisel.

Is your 'avitar' a college stunt, or an engineering class project  ??? ::) 8) ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

sawguy21

The dealership I work at buys Stihl chain by the loop because of cost. With the labour involved making loops, there is no advantage to the roll. We do buy Oregon by the roll because there are so many different lengths out there.
If you do buy the roll, make sure you know how to rivet properly. A broken chain is no fun. There was a good article on this in an issue of Chainsaw Age. May be on Mikes site.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

DMax

Hey beenthere, it is my weekend job!

Do you think stihl chain is worth the extra $? I really like the looks and price of this stuff...
http://onlinestore.forestindustry.com/cgi-bin/baileys/catch.html?product=12
is it any good?
thanks, David

beenthere

DMax
I assume your saw came with two Stihl chains (if not, IMO it should have so you can keep one sharp and ready to go if needed, and can change them out to wear two chains out for one sprocket, and so the bar can be flipped when you change to the other chain for even wear).

My suggestion would be to run those two Stihl chains and get familiar with what they can do for you when you keep them sharp.  After that time, you will be in good shape to judge how well the 'other' cheaper chain will perform for you relative to the Stihl product. I believe you get what you pay for. You may need to find that out yet,  :) and you may be happy running the cheaper chain knowing (or at least thinking) that you are saving some money. 

Not sure how much cutting you expect to do in any period of time, but you should get quite a bit of cutting out of two Stihl chains before you need to buy other chain in bulk, IMO.   Good luck to you.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Frickman

Use the Stihl chain, preferably a round tooth. It will stay sharp a little longer in the hard wood you're sawing. I have some experience with Oregon, and the steel and chrome seems to be softer than Stihl. That might be OK for softwoods, but you're not cutting softwoods.

Carbide chain is OK for the right application, but I don't think this is one. It cuts much rougher than a standard chain, and tends to "bounce" on you while in the cut. I bought one years ago for a log yard employee who couldn't file a chain. I just took it back to the dealer once a month or so to have it sharpened with a diamond wheel. That chain met it's end when I used it to cut some dry locust fence posts. The old, hard wood knocked the carbide off the chain. It didn't dull it, it knocked the carbide inserts right out of the teeth. Fireman use carbise also on some rescue saws. I don't think though that you have the right application for it.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

fishhuntcutwood

Stick with Stihl chain.  I'd go with RS or RM.  Stay with your 20" bar on that 310 in hardwood.  It wouldn't be a happy saw with much more than that in hardwood.

Carbide chain is for pretty specific applications, and in those applications, it'll work well.  Like was mentioned it's used in rescue operations, and some guys will use it in dirty wood, but it's not the end-all, be-all timber chain alot of guys think it is.

Keep whatever chain you use sharp, and it'll make all the difference.

Jeff
MS 200T
MS 361
044
440 Mag
460 Mag
056 MII
660 Mag

SawTroll

Quote from: Frickman on October 09, 2005, 04:51:59 PM
Use the Stihl chain, preferably a round tooth. .........
Are you referring to round ground chisel (RS, RSC), or semi chisel (RM)?

Personally I prefer to use RSC on my MS361 most of the time. I think the edge holds up pretty good, unless the wood is very dirty.
I keep RM chain as backup, for use in those spesial situations when it is called for only.
Information collector.

fishhuntcutwood

Quote from: SawTroll on October 12, 2005, 04:10:10 AM
I keep RM chain as backup, for use in those spesial situations when it is called for only.

I use RMF in dirty wood, and it does hold an edge pretty well.  I use RSF in standing timber, or clean wood.

Jeff
MS 200T
MS 361
044
440 Mag
460 Mag
056 MII
660 Mag

wiam

I bought  spinner and breaker because I was going to save money with bulk chain. :D :D  Now I have figured that I can save about $2.00/chain if I buy loops in bulk.  The good news is that I can fix a loop if I need to. ::)

Will

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