what size should you cut framing lumber

[leggs]

            I have a customer with 20 poplar logs he wants cut into framing lumber. 2x12s 2x10s ect. just wanted to know what size to allow for drying                   Thanks don

[BBTom]

First and foremost, I cut it what the customer wants  me to cut it.  we all have learned that they normally don't know for sure what they want you to cut it, so if they want it to match "box store" lumber.


When cutting a hardwood, I add 1/8" per 2" nominal.  I honestly do not know how close these end up to being right, but noone has complained yet.

I cut it 1 5/8"  thick by one of the following:

3 5/8" for 4
5 3/4" for 6
7 1/2" for 8
9 5/8" for 10
11 3/4" for 12

If they want full cut, I normally (with the customers ok) zero my kerf setting and use 2" drops.  That leaves a 1/8" shy for either width or depth plus whatever shrinkage there is.  This method makes it real easy because you can use 2" marks either way on the cant to make useable lumber. 

If they want it a full cut after shrinkage, add the 1/8 inch and drop 2 1/8. I have never had anyone feel the need to have a full 2" measure, though I am certain there are some out there.

 

[spencerhenry]

i recently used hundreds of 2x6 that i had milled for my shop. these 2x6 were all cut from standing dead "dry" logs. sat stickered in the colorado sun and wind for about 5 months. when i used it, it was DRY. i had rough milled it at 5 17/32 x1 17/32. being "dry" logs i wasnt too worried about shinkage. i wanted it to match commercial timber in the event that i need more than i had milled, and to keep things simple. of the couple of hundred 2x6, less than 2% were 5 1/2, 80% were about 5 1/4, and the rest somewhere in between. thickness didnt change enough to matter. but i agree with the previous post about how big to mill 2x6. all my nominal 2x6 from now on will be milled 5 3/4

[Jeff]

5 17/32 x1 17/32 ? 

I suppose thats close enough for who its for eh?  ;)

[submarinesailor]

Recently cut a big bunch of poplar 2x4s and 2x6s.  Cut both measurements 3/32s over.  Hope that's enough. : : :

Bruce

[JP]

I am confused as to how the H--- you can cut to 1 17/32" starting at the top of a 24" log.??  First I square the log taking a slab and one or more boards (to be edged later) all 4 sides--But/ this square needs to be in a multable of the 1 17/32" + saw curf??? at say 20" what is the set cut??

I use a set cut dial I made using tenth inches (.10") and using a more accurate .10 saw curf (my WM blades are .0960 tot width) very close to .10
each scale alowes for the .10 curf to make 4/4,5/4, 6/4 --I am making a new dial adding a tic mark for .10 more for shrinkage
see pics at:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4231442&a=31390449&p=70439414
JP

[spencerhenry]

accuset

[BBTom]

It is very easy JP, Just set your Accuset to a 0.96 saw kerf (or whatever your kerf is) and set the pattern for 1 17/32 and set your auto down to 1 17/32.

A.. With accuset in manual take off your fist slab, while in the cut, punch the auto down button.

B.. At the end of the cut raise up just enough to drag back the slab with your board return.  Tap the up/down switch down to drop for the first board.

C.. At the end of the cut raise up just enough to drag back the slab with your board return.

D.. Roll the log 1/4 turn to put side two on top.

E.. Repeat A, B, and C for side two. Then roll log 1/4 turn to side three

F.. Raise head just above slab cut. Punch pattern button on accuset, verify you are on 1 17/32 pattern.

G.. Tap the up/down switch down.  cut off slab or board.

H.. Tap the up/down switch up, head should raise just enough to drag back slab with board return.

I..  Repeat G and H until you want to roll log to fourth side.

J.. Roll log to fourth side and go to step F.

Of course you have to use Accuset to be able to do it!!!

To be real honest about things, I would probably be the worlds worst sawyer without the accuset.  It makes it so much easier to saw consistant sized lumber.  I would be totally lost having to use the scales.