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What kind of mill do I need?

Started by squirrel hunter, September 13, 2005, 04:53:59 PM

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squirrel hunter

I have about 15 acres. It has a real good stand of timber mostly pines some are good sized and there are some nice poplar and oaks.

I want to mill these for use in framing myself a house. I think I have more than enough timber to do so. I have seen some mills that look alright that use a long chain saw. These look the least expensive but seems like the large kerf is a lot to waste away.

But on the other hand a band saw mill that I could afford might produce wavy material and that would not be good either. Any and all suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

D._Frederick

Glad to see a new member, but need a few answer first. Do you live in areas that require lumber to build a house to be inspected? How much do you want to spend on a saw mill? How hard can you work, mill that reduce labor cost a lot more?

To get an idea of mill types and cost check with sawmill exchange.com Since you have a limited supply of timber, have you thought about hiring someone to saw it for you?

rebocardo

I used a ProCut chain saw mill (home made and built from plans) and it was great because you can use it where you can get your truck as long as it is fairly level and then can move it by hand right up to the log. Getting a big log on there is problematic by yourself, I ended up using a come-along and winch.

A mill you place on the ground around the log, either chainsaw or bandsaw is ideal for a one person operation. No lifting.

I think one of the biggest considerations with a mill is how do you turn the cant? If you are cutting white oak, trying to turn a 24" cant by yourself can be quite the chore.

A chainsaw mill does waste a lot of wood, but, if you have a lot of free wood, then it is not a problem. It is really good for large cants.

To best determine what kind of mill, I think you have to determine

1) cost - how much are you going to spend
2) how do you load the logs on the mill
3) how are you going to turn the cants
4) target size of the wood cut
5) diameter and length of the average tree





Ianab

QuoteBut on the other hand a band saw mill that I could afford might produce wavy material and that would not be good either

That shouldn't be a problem even on the cheaper mills... if everything is adjusted right and the bands are sharp. What you miss out on with the manual mills is cutting speed and ease of loading / handling logs. The blade is effectivly identical to a larger mills and should cut about the same, just slower due to less power. If the band is blunt or things aren't aligned right... then it will cut wavey no matter what size mill.

If you are doing a house worth of sawing I think you want something better than a chainsaw mill.

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

rebocardo

replying to a post in another topic by Treeboy
QuoteHi I have been researching sawmills and can't decide what kind to buy. I can barely afford a entry model push bandsaw, or I can easily buy a chainsaw sawmill.

We bought 16 acres in the interior of British Columbia and have lots of beatle kill lodgepole pine to use (about 16 inches max at DBH). The trees have been dead for a year or two. We plan to build a hybrid log cabin - logs on the bottom, timberframe on the top. I will need to cut lots of one by lumber.

I may also try to make cut the aspen that the beaver nicely fell for me into flooring planks.

Thanks for any advise

> I will need to cut lots of one by lumber

A chainsaw mill is not ideal for 1x lumber. I have cut wood thin enough to practically see through it (less then 1/16 inch) to use for posters and such. Cutting 1x lumber with a chainsaw mill is an incredible waste of wood, not to mention a time waster. It is good for cutting 2x lumber and great for cutting 4x4 or 6x6 cants you are going to resaw later once the wood has been kiln dried or to be used as timber framing.

In the post you said the trees will be under 16 inches, if you are going to cut trees that small into 1x lumber then you need a bandsaw or something with a small kerf otherwise 1/3+ of that tree is going to be changed into sawdust.

Assuming a 12" cant, the chainsaw mill will do (eight) 1x pieces and a bandsaw mill will do 11. That is close to 40% more wood from the same log 16" log.

One thing a chainsaw mill might have an advantage over a bandsaw mill, from my limited experience, is very sappy wood is not a problem with a chainsaw mill. It does not slow down cutting speed or cause deflection in the kerf.



Jeff

QuoteIf you are doing a house worth of sawing I think you want something better than a chainsaw mill.

I would definitely agree with that. Heck, once you have a mill, you can make more then just the basic framing materials, you can make siding and paneling and flooring and cupboards and furniture and trim and bird houses and dog houses and fences and guest houses and flower boxes and landscaoe timbers and.........
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

DonE911

I started out with a chainsaw mill also.

I still have it... a logosol M7.  It's not fast as some other mills, but it cuts great lumber and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. You don't have to get down on the ground or push the saw thru the log.  The kerf is bigger than a band and makes more sawdust.  I have lots of uses for the sawdust so it's no big deal to me.  I didn't build a house with mine, but if I had he time and the free wood I could... it'd just take longer.  Manual bandmill would not be alot faster,but it probably would be faster to some degree.  If I was building a timber frame house I'd use my M7.

Big logs can be a challenge, but once you get the ramp set up right and specallee if you gotz a winch a 30" 10' oak log is no problem.  Turning the can't on the logosol is easier than ramping them up onto the mill unless you use a winch and then its harder.

I am buying a swing mill to pick up my production rate.  I thought I was going to sell the M7, but I keep thinking about what short work it makes out of smaller logs.  Anything 10 inches and smaller is a breeze wether its hardwood or softwood.  There are some good boards in the smaller logs if you don't mind taking the time to pull them out.

You really need to know if you can use ungraded lumber to build your home.... if the wood comes entirely from your property and you or a member of you family are going to live in the home, you may be able to fit into a loophole in the law.... just depends on where you are and what the rules are.

Good Luck and welcome to the forum.


DonE911

I just read that lots of 1x material...... 

In that case I'd go with the bandmill....  you do loose more bords with the chainsaw and depending on what "alot" is you would loose "alot" of 1x. 

rebocardo said it well.....   I've cut some stuff so thin you could make lamp shades out of it, but I wouldn't want to do it all day.  I cut a bunch of 1x siding for my wifeys cat house and I made a gigantic pile of dust that day.

squirrel hunter

Thanks for all the replies in such a short time!
D. Fredrick I live outside of the city limits in the sticks here in Alabama. There are a few regulations, but I have checked and I will be in the clear using my on lumber. I'm not sure how much I can spend. I do have a front end loader on my tractor and a stick truck I bought that should be able to hold 25'+ poles and logs.  I don't want to hire it out. I work full time but I am 23years old 6'6" 230lbs  and I think I can get a lot done in the afternoons and on the weekends.  I'm not looking for all the bells and whistles just something worth my money.
I know I will be posting a lot of questions about this stuff in thefuture. And when I find something I will run it past you guys to see what ya'll think. 

Thanks,

ely

check out cooks sawmills they are in alabama. talk to tim

Jeff

The Forestry Forum recommends you check out our SPONSORS' mills on the left hand side of the page. Those sponsors all have great products and support this forum, enabling folks to come on and get great information. They also all have a presence here and you can be sure that if you have a problem or question, it wont go unnoticed.  There are other O.K. mills out there, but Forestry Forum sponsors are the BEST.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

FeltzE

Thanks Jeff.... While I was posting you posted and ruined mine... stole my ditital signal or something. :'(

So here goes again...

I'd check out Woodmizer's LT 15 and Bakers Wood Buddy.

Bottom line is that a sawmill is a support system for a sawblade. All the power in the world won't help you if you have exceeded your beam strength of a band mill or filled the gullets of a circle saw.

Options like hydraulic loader and board returns all help productivity by reducing operator effort and allowing you to keep the working part of the mill (sawblade) at work.

Check the prices of the 2 listed above and make a choice, essentially they are very comparable in capabilities and both reputable manufacturers.

Personally I one a WM and a Baker product and have been very happy with service with both companies.

Eric

DonE911

Also update your profile some....  lets us know where you are in the world. 

Sometimes that information makes it easier to answer some types of questions.

D._Frederick

S. H.,

If I was your age and in your shoes, I would look at the sit- on-the-ground used band mill. I see used ones for under 3K, check sawmill exchange.com.

The advantage of this type mill is you can build your own track extensions if you need long timbers. Since you have a tractor, moving logs should not be a problem. You can saw any thing on this mill type as you can on high cost ones.

Octoman

S.H, the LT 15 gets my vote all the way for what you are requiring.  You never see many coming through second hand which you should see as a good sign!  It means that once people have one they never get rid of it!  The flip side is that once finished with your house and you couldn't justify it any more it would still command a high re sale value.  Not sure in $ but at a guess buy one for $6000 and sell for $4500 after one year?  The LT15 is as accurate as a LT300, just not quite as fast!! :D
WM LT 15 - Fortune favours the Brave!

Ohio_Bill

I had a LT 15 for 3 years and cut over 100000 bft with it , sold it to a neighbor and upgraded to a lt40  I still say I could cut better lumber on the LT15  .My LT15 had the 13 hp motor and now they have a 15hp. The versatility of adding bed sections gives the option of cutting long material  , I think the LT 15 is a good value from a great company .

Bill
Bill
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LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

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