Ford truck - Engine light

[DonE911]

Anyone know when that stupid "service engine soon" light is computer scheduled to come on??


The light came on in the truck on Saturday.  I have good oil pressure ( recently changed )  the temp is good, airfilter not really clean but pretty good.  Can't find any leaks of any kind.  Starting to think its just the scheduled "bring me to the dealer to loose some money" thing.

The light came on at 94055 miles.  Thought that was an odd number for the light to pop on and I'm sure I didn't miss the fact it was on for 55 miles.

Anyone know.... or have any idea what else I should check before I take it to someone with one of them computer plug in deals?

[OneWithWood]

Take it to your local Autozone or other parts supplier.  Many of them will hook it up to their diagnostic unit and read the code.  It is probably an emissions sensor sending out a code.  Easy fix.

[Part_Timer]

I don't know about the fords but I had to switch to a higher octain of gas in mine.  When I run the less expensive(all most typed cheap) Stuff in mine the light will come on and stay on till I switch back and run a tank through.  My manual also says that if your gas cap is not on tight it will come on.  Don't know what that has to do with the engine but it is in the book.  95 Dodge 123,000 miles

[Weekend_Sawyer]

I have seen a loose gascap on a 98 camaro cause the check engine light to come on.
Definatley need diags to tell you what it is.

[Furby]

Run a scan test, like OWW said autozone does it for free or you can buy a scanner.
My light has been on non stop since April, and most of the time since a year before that.
My scans shows two things from time to time, one I fixed but keeps popping up on a scan. :
The other is to deep to mess with. :
Most cases when the light is on you are running on a default setting on the puter.

[sandmar]

Just had this happen on my 2001 Ford F-150 Supercrew with 37,000+ miles on it.Took it to the dealer.......new coil and number 1 plug replaced and runs like new again. That's right they only replace one plug.....they are supposed to be good for 100,000 miles. Yep..I am only a country boy but if one of those 100,000 mile plugs went bad at 37000+,how do they know the rest won't so go out and you will have to come back for more service? Yes I did asl politely  : adn was told that was Ford policy not to change good parts....NO,I was not a happy camper  >:(

Sandmar

[ScottAR]

What model truck?  96 and newer and you get into Onboard Diagnostics II
or OBDII it could be as simple as a new gascap.   Could be a dead O2 sensor... 
Best have someone plug it in or we're just guessing... 

[DanG]

Ya might can pull the code yourself.  Many vehicles have on-board readouts.  You just switch it on and off in a certain sequence and it flashes the numbers to you by blinking the "service engine" light.  Get a  book or give me the model and I can look it up for ya.

[DonE911]

Well.... Model#  its a 2000 F150 4X4 with 5.4

I checked the gas cap.. its on tight.  Now that you mention it, I noticed it right after topping off the tank at a gas station.  They didn't have regular unleaded so I had to get the mid grade stuff.  I got about 12 gallons and it got mixed with the cheap stuff...  maybe it thinks I'm feed'n to good ;D

The ABS sensors went out on it about a year ago.... never bothered to fix it.  Don't like abs anyhow.

[DanG]

I'll waddle over to the shop and get my code book.  It'll tell us if ya can pull the code yerself.  Back in a mo'.

[DanG]

I'm back wit da book, but it ain't gonna help. :-\  I'm sure I bought it since 2000, but it apparently wasn't exactly "hot off the press."  The book is a '92 edition.  It says that for trucks from '83 to '92, you can read the codes with a voltmeter hooked up a certain way to the readout plug.  However, we don't know if this is true for yours, and the codes might be different now, too.  I'd go to Autozone and try to find a fresh book, if it was me.  This one is the Haynes Emissions Control book.

[DonE911]

Thanks anyway DanG,

I gotta go to town some time this week, I'll see if the auto parts place can read it for me.

[Jeff]

Our chevy will do that. It I disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and reconnect, the light goes out.  It seems like its always associated with leaving the gas cap loose.

[DonE911]

 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

Jeff wins the fix of the day!!!!!

I disconneted the batt.... took off the gas cap and blew it out good with compressed air....  put it back on ....  made a fresh cup of coffee ... reconnected the batt..... 

Light went away!!!

Not sure what the effect was with the coffee, but I didn't want to leave out this important step in this high tech repair.

[DonE911]

Jeff I was worried that the fix wouldn't work.   I didn't have any "extra" parts left over :D :D :D

[Jeff]

Cool. About time I could contribute something.

[Pete J]

I've learned to live by the check engine light.

My local Auto Zone store has a guy read the codes with his hand held device. Just recently he diagnosed a front left oxygen sensor on my pickup. Only had to replace that one instead of all four by the trial and error method.
He then diagnosed a bad coil and one fuel injector seal on cylinder 1 of my wifes car.

I always thought they were idiot lights because I didn't know what "check engine" meant. Now I know that it means, your engine has sent a code that needs you to look at it. Most are easy fixes, it just tells you where to look.

[Dan_Shade]

the new OBDII stuff works pretty good.  if it comes back, it could well be an O2 sensor.  around here Autozone will pull the code for free. 

those lights are annoying, but you can get used to them after a while

[ohsoloco]

The light on my '96 F-150 came on the other week...it has about 70,000 miles on it.  Mine actually turned out to be a cylinder misfire.  That thing has been spittin' and sputterin' whenever I give it the throttle when the engine is cold and it's raining or damp outside.  Figgered it had something to do with that since it came on right after a coughing fit while chugging up a hill  :P  Parts for the tune up are in the basement...now if I can just find the time to do it  :

[DonE911]

We have been ignoring the ABS light for over a year now.....  don't even like the abs, so who cares.

[Faron]

DonE911, I bet that light comes back on in a day or so.  Evidently disconnecting the battery resets the computer, and the light stays off until the next time the senser sends out a distress signal.  O2 sensers often plug and cause the problem.

[gary]

I fix those annoying lights with a piece of black electrical tape . Cut a piece and put it over the light you will never know it is on.

[mometal77]

I agree idiot lights they are.  I wonder if those engineers have there own dictomiwary.  With some vehicles it is a stupid oxygen sensor.  I know with some vehicles like hondas you have to go to the dealer to just get a cap and rotor.  Or the bloody engine wont run right.  I say with a check engine light you get reamed here for 200 just to have them read it off.  Another idea to have is if you have a local tech/college nearby to go there what i do.  Even for anyquestions there is from electrical to autobody to machining hvac ect.
bob

I've learned to live by the check engine light.

My local Auto Zone store has a guy read the codes with his hand held device. Just recently he diagnosed a front left oxygen sensor on my pickup. Only had to replace that one instead of all four by the trial and error method.
He then diagnosed a bad coil and one fuel injector seal on cylinder 1 of my wifes car.

I always thought they were idiot lights because I didn't know what "check engine" meant. Now I know that it means, your engine has sent a code that needs you to look at it. Most are easy fixes, it just tells you where to look.

[DonE911]

Well....  the light came back on about 100 miles later >:(

So I go to auto zone and get the code. P1405.... says a sensor is plugged or off.

Well the third guy at the store had actually heard of the sensor and actually knew where it was. I hadn't been in this store, but its nice to know at least one employee knows something about cars.

the sensors got a couple 3/8" hoses that are dry rotted and one was rubbed thru.... air leak that I couldn't hear I guess....   

Anyway, its a super duper special hose for hi-temp use and .... you guessed it.. dealer only item 

Well I went back in the store and bought a 8 inch piece of hi temp oil hose and replace the super duper special stuff ;)

I bet I could have bought an entire roll of the oil line for the cost of that hose from the Ford dealership.  That doesn't include the labor they would charge to verify the code and change the hose.  I must admit it took a few minutes to change as you have to remove 2 bolts and loosen another ( all different size nuts too ) to gain access, then change the hose ( no clamps ) and tighten everything back down.  Thats probably a 2 hour labor charge, plus the fee to read the code and I'd have to listen to the service guy tell me how I need to fix the ABS sensors so the ABS system will work again....  cause you know that the population of the world could never stop in the rain without ABS. ;D

[rebocardo]

Dang,

FWIW: That check the codes with the meter or blinking lights really does not work on the newer OBDII 1996 and up vehicles.

OEMs could install a simple LCD in their vehicles so you could read codes yourself, but, that would mean you might not bring it to the dealership to be charged $25-$65 to read a code. Of course, we all know about costs and considering OEMs have used badly designed gas tanks in vehicles to save $0.20 a car, the chance of a $2 LED display to save YOU time and money is probably not top priority. Maybe a Federal law is in order  ;)

Yea, I know about those hoses, it sounds like it went to the EVAP control, I have done the same thing you have done to repair other people's cars once they learn the price of the OEM stuff. Make it fit with the Autozone stuff and just use more clamps  :D

[DonE911]

 :D :D :D

Now everyone knows the dealers make all the money in the service department....

The code said FDET sensor or something along those lines...  can't see real good but the tubing connector looks like it turns down into the general area of the head.   The truck is one of the cruise control recall models....  I call the dealership and they check my vin agains the recall....  mine didn't have to go in, but it was optional if I wanted them to disconnect my cruise until the parts came in... now is that stupid or what....  I bet I've gotten 20 notices on the recall if I got one.

[flip]

Now wait just a minute >:(  I work at a FOrd dealer and not all dealers are crooks.  The problem you have is a DPFE problem.  This sensor tells the computer when the EGR valve is open so the computer can adjust fuel trims accordingly.  The light will probably come back on because the sensor is bad too and you might have an engine fire because the hose is connected to a tube comming off the exhaust manifold and it gets hot!!
As far as the cruise control...do what you want  we should have parts in a month or so but it is a good idea to look at the sensor and make sure it's not leaking fluid and if you don't use your cruise just unplug the connector on top of the master cylinder-cheap insurance.
ABS light.  Take it back to autozone and see if you get a P0500, if you do replace the speed sensor mounted in the top of the rear differential, it can cause shift and speedometer problems.

Just my .02 from a former technician turned service advissor ;D

[DonE911]

 

yes, DPFE thats it...  why would the sensor be bad and if it is will I notice a change in MPG?  The hole that rubbed thru was bigger than a pencil eraser...  off the top of your head if you can, what does the correct hose cost?  that hose runs into the exhaust and they use rubber??   

I didn't say anyone was a crook... don't get me wrong...  I'm just stating that it's tooooo costly to take the thing to te dealer after the warantee is up.  Dealer only parts are to much $$$ and its simply silly the aftermarket can not supply them.  If you can geta starter at NAPA ( or wherever) why can't you get a winshield whipper arm ( not the blade, the actual arm ) for that same vehicle at the parts store.

I am sorry if you took offense... that was not intended.  The mark up on new vehicles is not high enough to keep dealers in business... overhead is to high and there's always another dealer in the next county to play the price war with.

I had a mechanic ( did work at a dealership, but now with own shop ) pull the codes when the problem first came up(ABS).  He told me such and such sensors were bad, but the brakes will still work just not abs.  The sensors were on back order and not cheap so I just forgot about it.  The speedo is good and only off by a MPH and  half last time I checked (tire wear?)...  Because of my work we got calibrated whenever we wanted.   As for shifting... the trani went out in less than 12 months on this truck.... dealership had it repaired and back to me in one day... kudos for them... must have been a common problem to get it fixed so fast....  it was running 5k rpm to make 20mph... no problems since and that was in 2001.

You may know, will any of these electric issues kill the factory wired tow package?  I rewired the thing myself, but It was dead from the connector under the dash back.  That happened after the trani, but before the ABS thing.    Fuses are all okay. 

Finally did the guy I talked to have the right info?? Did the recall not apply to vehicle manufactured before a certain date even though the model year is the same?? This would be ref the cruise control

Hope I didn't wear you out with questions or make you danG mad.

[ScottAR]

Get your dealer parts at www.powerstrokeshop.com/   Their really cheap compared to my local dealer, even with shipping.  Just a happy customer...

[flip]

No I'm just playin' with ya ;D  I get this stuff all day. 

The hoses are actually about $6.00 each and made out of a high temp silicone.  The sensor WILL effect fuel mileage and will ususally give you a surge while driving at steady speeds.  The hoses actually have exhaust gasses pass through them that's why they melt down.

THe scope of the cruse recall 05S28 was expanded because the same switch was used on other trucks, acutally I've seen more older model trucks melt the switch down than the newer ones :  Idiot engineers, I cut a switch apart to see what the problem was-3 small thin plastic disks seperate brake fluid pressure (2500psi) from the electrical contacts can you say duh? :

You said you checked the fuses, but... did you check the ones under the hood in the fuse box on the drivers side?  The trailer lights, turn, and braking fuses are all in there.  99% of the time one of those fuses is popped.

If anyone has any problems on a FORD I am happy to answer what I can.  I owe a lot to the Forum and the people on it for all the free info. I got here.

Flip

[DonE911]

Thanks Flip... and I'm glad you aren't upset. 

I guess I'm going to drive down to the Ford dealer ( actually not one in my county ) and get the right hose....  seeing its not a $30 part.  I hav to make a 12 hour round trip this weekend and a fire under the hood would not be a good thing.

I checked the under hood fuses and they were fine... I actually replaced some just in case, but that didn't help... no big deal now since its rewired and working fine.

Thanks again.

[DonE911]

Just for anyone with the same problem....

I called Ford for the parts....  the sensor is $70 and the hose is $5 a foot...  2 feet required.



Thanks to everyone for the help.

[beenthere]

flip
You may be hearing from Kirk. Sounds like he has one of the '58 vintage.  He's so young, he thinks it's old  ;D :D :D

[Kirk_Allen]

Hey now, I resemble that comment ;D

[rebocardo]

> DPFE thats it...  why would the sensor be bad

Gets loaded up with exhaust carbon and what have you. Usually located on top of or near the EGR valve. Anyone care to "guess" what the acronym really means? I think they have engineers employeed just to dream up these names for emission parts   :D

[DonE911]

Ok... the sensor is changed and the hoses too....  $94 after taxes. 

Took 10 minutes not including the 15 min break I took in the middle of the job do to rain.

for those that said the sensor was probably bad also..... well your at least half right.  The thing is made out of plastic and part of the hose connector had melted ( ??? ) and was blocking the flow by about half.

I dropped one of the 8MM nuts that holds it on and the engine compartment moster must have eaten it. Now its got a 3/8's nut on it ;)... now that makes  2 8MM nut, one 3/8's nut, 2 10MM nuts to change one frig'n little part..... 

DPFE     stands for      DanG Poor Frig'n Excuse

[DouginUtah]

DPFE     stands for      DanG Poor Frig'n Excuse

Or possibly "Differential Pressure Feedback EGR"  ;D  :D  :D  :D

-Doug