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BUZZ'S new bandmill project NEW PICS!

Started by Buzz-sawyer, August 23, 2005, 06:50:48 PM

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Buzz-sawyer

I am putting together a bandmill and I have some ideas for idler side adjustments with two bolts.......similair to this home made configeration.....any suggestions?




    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

beenthere

Buzz

My thought would be to move the tightener stud closer to the pivot point. As shown, it seems it is bound to create a lot of bind on the slide mechanism. Move it closer to where the white arrow is, as shown.  Otherwise, looks clean and workable to me.




Seems the closer in line with the hinge pin, the less bind on the slide, near this location.  Just a thought.



south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Fla._Deadheader

 Coat that slide with "Slick Plate" or something similar. Looks good to me. 8)

  How far along are ya ???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Buzz-sawyer

Thank for the input so far...........
I am ready to start welding thr power head tommorow
Plan is for a 2 poster with 20" wheels,(ford tempo)
41" in the throat, will square a 48" log.
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

J_T

Buzz close to the way I'm doing mine only thing I'm gunna put a spring on that adjuster  8) Im just using a longer bolt  ???
Jim Holloway

Fla._Deadheader


Better plan on a STOUT log turner. 48" log is tough to turn. ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Tom

I'm just wondering if you can get enough "racking" strength from a two post mill to hold the blade tension.

Buzz-sawyer

I dont plan on dealing with too many 48" logs...but I have before, and probably will again..... :D :D :D
I am building this WHOLE thing STOUT.....More so than the commercially built mills I have seen this size.
Tom those cantalever deals seem to hold up with a one post design? :P
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Fla._Deadheader


With your engineerin Buzz, I got complete confidence in ya. Go for it.  ;) ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Buzz-sawyer

Well..........I dont think I will bust it toooo easy , BUT I may need to use my F-600 to pull it :D :D :D
I am building the carriage advance like the one on my circle mill.hydrailic pulling cable.
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Fla._Deadheader

All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Buzz-sawyer

I was just gonna ask for suggestions..... 8) 8)
the deal is I want to have the ability to cut the occasional monster log for a table or some thing........but also use the thing for run of the mill16-28 inch stuff.
I was wondering if a winch wrap around style could be used to turn the big boys, and also have a conventional WM style turner??
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Fla._Deadheader


Only thing I know is, them big logs really hit the bunks hard, if you can't cushion the drop.  :o :o :o :o

  Biggest we turned, so far, was 43" Live Oak. It was tough to turn with cant hooks, and we thought the mill broke when the log turned face down.  :o

  Use lotsa thinkin before ya construct something. ;) ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Dan_Shade

why not put a system of car shocks or something to slow down the drop underneath? if you're worried of the big ones hitting?  I'm sure something could be figured out to slow it down some. 


I know a 15-20" cant hits hard when being flipped, and you can sort of make it slide on the backstops.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Buzz-sawyer

ya Dan
I am thinkin that on the bigger ones I would probably flat saw it half way through to start...
BUT it seems like a set of angled arms/stops that would catch the cantand ease it down or beak the fall could help on the big chuncks, when they are falling ;)
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Tom

If you are going to be slabbing, I have two suggestions.  Both are simple.

!.  Plan to cut real short logs.  I'm talking about almost firewood lengths.  Tree surgeons will cut these big logs up into short lengths just so they can get them on a truck.  Most of them are using manual labor.

-You need dogs that are close together and you need bunks that will hold a short log without it falling through the mill.
-It would be nice if your turner could be used but it might be in conflict with the clamp.

2. Drag-backs are really handy when handling heavy stuff on a bandmill.  

-You need the gig back power to pull a heavy timber.
-You need to configure the controls of the mill so that they aren't in the way of the slab being pulled back
-It would be handy if a set of material handling rollers were incorporated in the design of the mill to make it easy to get the heavy stuff off of the mill and onto a trailer.
-Configure each bunk with a "table" that will prevent boards/slabs etc. from going between the bunks and hanging
on the mill.


Now that the mill is helping to handle the material, make sure that you have covered safety.  The workers will be helping machinary and it will get them.  Get rid of all pinch points in the worker's area.  Try to keep workers from getting under a heavy slab as it is pulled from the top of a big log. (they could lose a hand or worse).  Smoothe all edges and allow no sharp points in the working area.

Buzz-sawyer

Tom
I like your suggestions.
I hadnt put a lot of thought into drag back, however the sytem I am planning is very strong.....capable of moving whole logs (cable system like on a circular miil)...so that will help in pull back,

I had thought about making back stops move able on the set up close to the operators end...on a shaft maybe.

I have 2 10' foot sets of roller tables availabe that could load directly into a truck .
I think the thoughtful layout for drag back could help a whole buch when cutting ties or timbers as well.

I didnt quite follow this part,"Configure each bunk with a "table" that will prevent boards/slabs etc. from going between the bunks and hanging
on the mill"
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

jpad_mi

Buzz,
48" ??? Yeah, now that's a saw!

Here's a pic of the tensioning/tracking mechanism on my project:



I used two 3/4" hyme joints (rod ends) at the top and bottom, and a smaller one (5/8inch?) at the center of the inboard end.  The hymes allow me to adjust the camber and caster for good tracking.  I put a 1750# trailer stub axle through the two 1/4" plates and welded to the front side plate only (to allow me to seperate it later). It does bear on the rear plate to spread the load.  Tensioning is accomplished by pulling the hub with the acme rod.



The first picture is upside down; it was taken while it was sitting on the floor.
Jeff P. in Michigan

Buzz-sawyer

Thanks for posting your set up!
I have my parts laying out flat ready to get committed today....
I could cut a larger log (UP to 58") IF I had a 9 foot lift capability.........but I will save that for the next one :D :D :D :D
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

SAW MILLER

  Buzz,I built mine as a two post mill and it wanted to walk going down the track,I only was using two inch pipe as supports.It was real easy to ad two more supports and some gussets and problem solved.I like both posts on idler adjustments.mine is not that complex,just a couple of jack bolts on my slider
LT 40 woodmizer..Massey ferg.240 walker gyp and a canthook

Fla._Deadheader


  We seem to be missing some pics here  ??? ??? ??? ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Buzz-sawyer

Yep...the ones showin how homey tightens up and turns :D :D ;)
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Fla._Deadheader


I've posted MANY pics of Homey, from conception to Gittin-R-Done. ;) ;) :) :)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Buzz-sawyer

Yep and I have everyone you ever posted.......and all the dialog you posted........

I came to this forum to learn initially and ya were just starting on your mill, so I followed your process with pretty good attention...you posted about 13 pages of details and pics.
.
Never recal seeing one specifically on this subject though?

Its Ok got the general idea from larger pics........ :) :) :)

I got mine pretty much done today any how...I will get some pics up tonight or tommorow.
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Fla._Deadheader


WOW  :o  13 pages ???  Really ??? :o :o

  Wonder if any of that info actually is any good  ??? ??? ;D

  Here ya go, just for kicks


All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

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