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sawing ash

Started by deadeye, June 13, 2005, 05:25:35 PM

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deadeye

having problems with the blade diving when sawing ash.  cuts great until i hit a change in grain.  any ideas

Bibbyman

We normally don't have any problem sawin' ash.  Could be that they are REAL fresh cut and have some sap sticking to the blade?

Do you cut other hardwoods? Everything else cuts OK? 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

deadeye

no problems sawing other hardwoods, olny have this problem once in a while.  i have cut a lot of ash and never had much for problems.  there was some sap buildup on the blade, how do you get around that.  i'm using simmons 1 1/2 inch 7/8 space 10degree hook. 

Kirk_Allen

PINESOL!  Works great to keep the build up down.


Tom

Cuts the pitch off of your hands and clothes too. :)

deadeye

do you think this is the problem.  how come on some ash i have no problems at all and then this ash i cursed every log.  when the blade dives is where the gain seems to make a circle..

Tom

Putting the type of wood aside, there are several reasons that a blade will dive or follow the grain.

The first is a dull or dulling blade. 

The second is a damaged blade where the
damage may only be on one side of the blade.
(did it hit something on the mill?)

The Third is a blade that has too little set.
It will be apt to follow the grain.

The fourth is tension.  Too little blade tension
will cause the blade to do all kinds of weird stuff.

The fifth is guide adjustment. 
   If the guides are not parallel to the bed, the blade
   may take off in the direction it is pointed.
   
   If the guides are too far back, the blade will have
   to bend to reach the back roller or rim of the roller guide.

   If the guide is too far forward, it rides on the roller guide
   rim all of the time and is unstable.in that it might not be
   centered on the wheel.

I would look at dull or under set blade first and then check
the guides for alignment. :)

Some woods are just difficult to saw.  Loblolly Pine in my area is that way.  It seems to have wide early wood and tough late wood that causes me trouble if the blade isn't sharp right off of the sharpener.  As soon as the teeth begin to dull my cuts go awry.  Perhaps Ash is like that too.

deadeye

blades where fresh off the sharpener, set at 22, they cut the cherry like butter.  the guides are adjusted pre woodmizer specs.   it pulled the blade down off the rollers and made some ocean lumber

Sawing Logz

I also have had that problem with ash at times. Bought some monkeys( Muffms) from Menominee saw and found they hold the set witch is why I was having problems. Ash has the sawing level of concrete, very hard and dense.

Jeff
City Forrest Treecycler

Kirk_Allen

I have to say that I have never had any problems with Ash.  I find that with a good sharp blade it cust like butter.  I use the WM 10 degree .045 x 1 1/4" blade with .025 set.  Works great. 

Engineer

Same here, never a problem with ash.  WM 10 degree blades, factory (or ReSharp) set. 

I do, however, get ocean waves when sawing knotty pine if the blade is dull or doesn't have enough tension on it.  That's the first place I'd check.

mike_van

Only problem i've had with White Ash, is that it is so dry, I need to run a little water to saw it well.  Locust is the same way.  These woods I believe don't have as much free moisture [or is it bound moisture?]  as oak, cherry etc. I've allways heard you could saw an Ash down, throw it in the fire & it will burn. I never have, but it has to do with the moisture content.
I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

deadeye

well i resharpened my blades and the set could have been a problem, it was olny 19 so i bumped them up to 23. going to try them friday on some more ash.  thanks for the input and i will keep you up to date.

sawyerkirk

We saw ash almost exclusively now days. We drip vegetable oil on the blade at all times. keeps the blade clean, and rarely do we have blade dive problems. 'course now we have 4" of build up all over the mill from the oil, but at least it won't rust.

AtLast

Well.....I THINK I MIGHT be able to help in regard to what works for me when cutting Ash....I use Lennox Woodmaster 1 1/4 .042x7/8...works GREAT...I used to use 1TPI but switched to 7/8 and a noticable difference....I use this same set up on ALL the hardwoods I cut and even have great success on softwoods....I highly reccommend good ole water and dish soap when cutting....and in winter just simple windshield washer fluid...

isawlogs

  It happens ... I have seen this also in tamarack   you can be sawing and then after 10 logs that go really well you get one that just dont like to be cut up ...  Could be that it was growing on a hill side .. could be the flair at the butt ...  Just  takes more time to saw this one log up ..
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

twostroke_blood

I have the same problem with ash, it took two blades to saw this load (about 300 b/f)     

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