My mill

[DragonsBane]

 Just a few thoughts needed. Would it be better for most if the mill was able to be basically bolted together or to use welded construction. I have the basic design down right know but I won't be able to start construction until this winter during my annual layoff. I'm working 60-70 hours a week out of town right now. It may take awhile to get beck to everyone but I will eventually.

Later all......

[DanG]

Gee, its hard to say.  What kind of mill are you gonna build?  It may be best to bolt it together at first, then weld it after you have some of the kinks worked out.  You gonna be working from plans, or designing it yourself?

[Kirk_Allen]

I agree with Dang.  Although I have never built one I would suspect that bolted parts would come loose over time unless you pay VERY close attention to detail.  There are lots of stress on a mill when you start turning logs with any weight to them.  Which leads to lots more questions.

Not being a fabricator I think I will sit back and learn on this one  ;D

[DanG]

No fabricator here either, Kirk. :D  I hadta scratch to come up with something that didn't sound stoopid, but I wanted to bring the question back to the top. ;D ;) :D :D

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Need more info  : ;D ;D

  What're ya buildin ??

[DragonsBane]

 I'm still working out the final details on a swing blade. No log weight on it, just the weight of the carriage and motor. Right now I'm kinda torn between a Briggs 31 HP Vangaurd and a Wisconsin V465D rated at 66 horse. The Wisconsin is kinda heavy at 560 pounds dry weight but the weight would counteract the tendency of the carriage wanting to lift. Still aot of details to work out.

Later all..........

[D._Frederick]

Put in as many adjustments as you can using bolts. I would design the mill in assemblies that are welded together, then bolt the assemblies together.

In your work, do you use welding jigs to keep things from warping? Your track should be straight to a few thousands over its length, if you want to produce lumber with out crooks. Don't cut corners on designing the track. On my lay-on-the-ground mill, the track was designed using angle iron, I ended up re-enforcing it with 6 inch channel.

[mike_van]

The mill I have is "shop made" Someone else started it before I wound up with it.  Allmost every joint was welded.  Allmost nothing left of it's original form now.  You can weld a lot, for sure, but there's lots of parts that will need adjustment someday.  Imposible to do when welded.  Think about it as you are building, will this part ever need to move?  If I need to replace this part, do I get out the torch or un-bolt it? 

[countrysaw]

DB, 
      just adding a comment, i think that instead of putting the mill together with bolts and then welding it when it is all right, just tack weld while fitting everything, and then when all is well, finish weld, because the more holes in a frame the weaker it is.  I would not use a stronger wire or electrode than 60 series (60,000 lb tensile strength) otherwise with all of the stress and flexing, you might crack a weld because it not as flexible as the steel around it.

       also, with the jig question of earlier, if you do not have an magnetic arrow jig, get one.  it just looks like a stubby little arrow with the tip cut off and a hole in the middle.it is a metal coated magnet, usually painted red, some of them even have levels in them.  it is one of my favorite tools, and for as little as you can get one for ($15 - $30) it is one of the best investments you can make.  they will hold inside corners, outside corners, tees, butt joints, and makes perfect 90' and 45' angles.

zach