024AVS

[TexasTimbers]

I have somewhat inherited an older Stihl 024AVS. It stays in east Texas where I'm doing my logging right now, but it's coming with me when I move my operation west, here at home. It belonged to my late father-in-law, and my M-I-L has given me all his tools etc. I don't have the saw here but I think it said "Made in West Germany" on it?
Anyway, I like the saw quite a bit. In fact, I believe it has more power than my 2001 model 025. It looks alot different and the innards are quite different the way things are laid out.
I suppose the "AVS" means Anti Vibration System, but if it doesn't it should. This thing is a decidedly smoother ride than my newer 025.
The bar is taller than a standard 16" bar but the same relative length and my 16" chains won't fit on it but 18" are way too big.
Anyway, the beauty was running fine until I took the chain that was on it off, in order to put on a sharp 16" until I discovered of course it was too small, but now it's throwing the chain off nearly instantly. Every time. Even though I take great care re-installing it I've disturbed something because it does it everytime now. I make sure the chain is solidly in the cog thing, and carefully tighten the bar nut and then tighten the tension screw until the chain is taut but not overly tight. Any ideas?
Of course, I still love my 372XP more, but this stihl is a sweety pie, I need to get her running again.

[jokers]

Kevjay,

When tensioning your chain, turn the adjuster before tightening the bar nuts. It should go something like this. Ensure the nuts are loose, lift the tip of the bar to put it in the position it will be in for most cutting, turn the adjuster screw until the chain just barely gets snug to the bottom of the bar then roll the chain around the bar to check for free movement and proper seating in the bar and sprockets. Readjust if necessary then tighten the bar nuts, back one first. As you no doubt already know, the chain should move freely around the bar so check this again after tightening the nuts, the chain will often become tighter after tightening the nuts. Rolling the chain under tension will also point out any burrs or kinked links that may be causing the derailment.

Russ

[TexasTimbers]

Jokers,
Of course I tighten the tension screw and then the bar nut - singular - it only has one. Just a silly typo - when doing it I obviously do it in proper order elsewise I'd get nowhere fast, which is where I am with it now anyway  :( Still, something is amiss. Reckon I'll take it in.
Gotta another  question for ya tho. I noticed you mentioned a couple of times something about your 372 having been modified and paying accolades to the mech who did it (am I remembering correctly?) who is this wizard of huskys?
I chopped a long thick ash yesterday into three pieces and she never slowed down till I hit a titantic knot (was using my 24" bar), and she actually bogged down a little bit.  ;D She did finish the cut without re-positioning the saw though. It made me think, one can't have too much power.
When you talk about "mods" and whatnot, what can actually be done to my 372 to make her even more vicious? I might want to modify her considering we have several of some of the hardest woods in the world - right here in Texas.
Thx. KJ.

[fishhuntcutwood]

So are you reinstalling your original chain, or did you get a new one?  If it's a new one, make sure it's the same pitch as the bar sprocket (it if has one) and the saw's as well.  And it's possible to get the chain set in the sprocket so it looks somewhat seated, but it's not.  I watched a guy install a .404 chain on his 056's 3/8 sproket.  It sorta fit, but it would tend to bind up on him, and abviously not run right.  Someone (not at all saying you) who didn't know better would have thought it fit fine.   That'd be the easiest thing to check...if Russ' advice didn't cure your problems.

Jeff

[StihlDoc]

The 024 AVS 16" uses a .325" pitch, .063 gauge chain with 67 drive links. The "AVS" means Anti-Vibration, Super. The Super version was an increased displacement and horsepower version vs. the standard 024. It is a more powerful saw than your 025. The 024 was designed as a small saw for pro use in the Scandanavian market but was a great saw at a good price and sold well in North America.

[DonE911]

Yep, what stihldoc said.  325 .63. 

I've got one also and it cuts okay, but the top end needs to be replaced.  I have a standard 024 piston and cyl, but I'm considering a 026 piston and cyl for it. 

[jokers]

Jokers,

I noticed you mentioned a couple of times something about your 372 having been modified and paying accolades to the mech who did it (am I remembering correctly?) who is this wizard of huskys?.......... When you talk about "mods" and whatnot, what can actually be done to my 372 to make her even more vicious? I might want to modify her considering we have several of some of the hardest woods in the world - right here in Texas.
Thx. KJ.

Hi KJ,

My favorite 372 was modified by Ken Dunn, it`s a real eye opener. The port timing was altered, the squish tightened and compression raised, and the carb was reworked to give it enough gas. I had opened the muffler up prior to sending the saw to Ken but he would have done it if I hadn`t. The fact of the matter is that opening the muffler gives the cheapest and most bang for your buck and it also helps the saw last longer by running significantly cooler than stock. The sad part about my KD372 is that he may not build any more due to some health problems. He does however have a protege in Dennis Greffard if Dennis is in the mood.

Ed Heard(EHP) also builds a very strong 372 that I have run and I wouldn`t hesitate to own one myself. Ed`s saws are typically very torquey which would seem right for very hard wood.

Dan Henry fielded a Jonsered 2171(same as a 372) at my recent GTG that turned in a very impressive time but the guy running it wouldn`t let anyone else try it, therefore I can`t tell you anything more about it.

BTW, sorry if I offended you with the bar nut/tension sequence. It seemed obvious that you couldn`t have been attempting to tension it as posted but sometimes overlooking the obvious means tripping over the problem.

Take care, Russ

[TexasTimbers]

So are you reinstalling your original chain,
Jeff

Yes the original. I don't know why my 16" chains are too small considering this is supposed to be a 16" bar, but it seems more like 16.5". I'll measure it next time im in east texas.

The Super version was an increased displacement and horsepower version vs. the standard 024. It is a more powerful saw than your 025.

I thought it felt more powerful.

The fact of the matter is that opening the muffler gives the cheapest and most bang for your buck and it also helps the saw last longer by running significantly cooler than stock.

"Opening the muffler up" sounds like something I can do. Is it as easy as it sounds?

BTW, sorry if I offended you with the bar nut/tension sequence. It seemed obvious that you couldn`t have been attempting to tension it as posted but sometimes overlooking the obvious means tripping over the problem.

Nah. Even if I didn't have thick skin ya have to know wthat more times than not, on a forum like this, people aren't trying to offend others even if it were to come across that way. I actually had to re-read the post to see what you referring to.
I'm just here for the advice because I'm as green as they come and maybe one day I'll be able to pass on some info to someone else wheather on this forum or locally. But for now, spoon feed me!!! :D

[StihlDoc]

I've got one also and it cuts okay, but the top end needs to be replaced.  I have a standard 024 piston and cyl, but I'm considering a 026 piston and cyl for it. 

Note that the 026 cylinder/piston won't fit up to the 024 chassis. Crankshaft won't work and bolt pattern for the cylinder mounting is different.

[DonE911]

Stihldoc;

Thanks for the info, I was informed that the chasis were the same and that the cyl was taller ( pin position ? ) so the 024 plastic over the cyl would have to be replaced with 026 plastic.  I had not done any investigation on that so I'm glad you mentioned it now.   Guess the 024 top end will have to go on it if a super don't show up. 

[dozerdan]

Hi
The piston and cylinder from an 026 will bolt directly onto the 024 Super case and it will work. The 024 Super and the 026 have the same stroke on the crank. The standard 024 does have a shorter stroke then the 024 Super or the 026. The bolt pattern on all of the cylinders and cases are the same.
I have used the 026 cylinders on the 024 with the short stroke but it involves a lot of work. You have to mill a lot of material off the base of the cylinder to get the squash clearance set correctly and then report the cylinder.
Later
Dan

[StihlDoc]

Dozerdan, thanks for the correction. The 026 cylinder will fit onto the 024 Super crankcase although some crankcases require a slight maching at the cylinder mounting area to provide clearance for the 44mm diameter piston skirt of the 026.

DonE911 stated that he has a standard 024. I assume he is referring to the 42cc version with a 30mm stroke vs. the "Super" version @ 44.3cc with a 32mm stroke. The 026 cylinder will not work with the standard 024.

[DonE911]

Dan and Stihldoc

thanks for the info...  I do have the 024 super, but the machining is beyond what I would want to take on since I don't hve the tools for it ( another thing on the wish list )  a straight up rebuild I could handle.

anyone got a 024avs piston and cyl sitting around??

[StihlDoc]

DonE,
What is the condition of your current cylinder/piston?

[DonE911]

Its in pretty bad shape.  Still runs but not much compression ( less than 100lbs ) ... its scratched up pretty bad. The previous owner didn't take very good care of it.  I got it cheap though... I think I paid alot of extra shipping for all the mud that it was caked in, not to mention the gas and oil was still in it when ups dropped it off.

I just changed the top end out on my 38 super and it was in better condition.

[Chris J]

If the 026 parts will work (sorry if I've misunderstood something  :-[)....

On eBayware there are some good buys on 026 pistons w/ rings; also jugs & pistons w/ all the bits & pieces.  Also a fully adjustable carb for 024/026.

[StihlDoc]

It is an easy modification to fit up the 026 cylinder and you can do it with an electric drill or dremel tool and a coarse fluted, blunt end metal cutting burr. You only need to remove a small amount of material from the crankcase so that the piston skirt does not contact the case when it reaches the bottom of the piston stroke. Your crankcase may already have the proper clearance if it was produced later than 1988. If you are not sure, have your local STIHL dealer refer to Technical Information Bulletin 29.88 for details.