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The Bandmill That I Built Continued

Started by rbarshaw, January 10, 2004, 03:07:46 PM

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Dan_Shade

my "yardstick" is set up so that the lowest 4/4 mark is 1-1/16 away from the bed, the 5/4 mark is 1-5/16 away from the bed, etc...

when squaring a cant that I'm going to saw into 4/4 boards, I make my opening, and subsequent cuts all on a 4/4 mark, that way, when I get to my cant, it's already at the 4/4 mark, I can roll the cant, and still get 4/4 boards, and my last board will be 4/4.

does that make sense?
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

rbarshaw

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 27, 2005, 08:39:58 AM
my "yardstick" is set up so that the lowest 4/4 mark is 1-1/16 away from the bed, the 5/4 mark is 1-5/16 away from the bed, etc...

when squaring a cant that I'm going to saw into 4/4 boards, I make my opening, and subsequent cuts all on a 4/4 mark, that way, when I get to my cant, it's already at the 4/4 mark, I can roll the cant, and still get 4/4 boards, and my last board will be 4/4.

does that make sense?
So does that mean that the yardstick is fixed in place and you cut to it? Seems wasteful to me as most cants don't start at a finished multiple of 4/4, but then again I guess it doesn't matter if you cut off the difference before or after the x/4 peices.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

Dan_Shade

i have a frame, and the sawhead rides up and down on the frame.  the ruler is attached to the sawhead, and the pointer is  on the frame.

the way I saw, I don't think it causes any extra waste, I have assumed that the big sawmills cut cants the same way, in multiples of the board thickness + kerf, which is what i do (because the scale is set to that).  that way, I can avoide a board that's an oddball thickness at the bottom of my cant.

next time I'm sawing, I'll take a few pictures that show my method.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

rbarshaw

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 27, 2005, 10:05:24 AM
i have a frame, and the sawhead rides up and down on the frame.  the ruler is attached to the sawhead, and the pointer is  on the frame.

the way I saw, I don't think it causes any extra waste, I have assumed that the big sawmills cut cants the same way, in multiples of the board thickness + kerf, which is what i do (because the scale is set to that).  that way, I can avoide a board that's an oddball thickness at the bottom of my cant.

next time I'm sawing, I'll take a few pictures that show my method.
Pictures would be very helpful, thanks.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

DanG

I like the way Lucas handles this problem.  Their guage slides up and down on the post.  You just slide the guage to where the saw is now, then lower the saw to the appropriate level.  The kerf is figured into the first inch.  Slide the guage down again for the next drop.

One way to do your kerf allowance would be to make your pointer the same width as your kerf.  Then if the bottom edge of the pointer is at, say 12", drop to where the top edge is at 11" for a 4/4 board.  The kerf would be automatically added.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

GF

You can buy the stick on scales from Cooksaw for about $10 each, they have two types of thicknesses to each scale.  I used these on my saw.

wiam

Dang,  don't forget we need to measure from the bed.  We are upside down from you. :D

Will

Paul_H



I ended up making a pointer like DanG mentioned.It was fashioned from a chunk of steel banding and I used Nail polish to mark the top and bottom and allow for kerf.My mill has a full 3/8 kerf but the gauge has made things faster and easier to read.The clip on the side is a full 2" but mostly use it for a slider if I have to drop down over 4 "
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

DanG

Wiam, I'm sorry you Northern types are downside-upwards.  You could just reverse the procedure, I suppose, but you'd just find a reason that that wouldn't work, too. ;) ;D :D :D

Really though, this will just figger your drops for you.  Its up to you to size your cant.  Keep a kakalater on hand, maybe? ???

Paul, that's eggzackley what I had in mind.  I use those binder clips too, to return to a level when I have to change up. :)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

arj

Here`s a picture of my scale sticks. The one on the right is a regular yard stick, the other one is to cut 1 3/4 X  3 3/4. It`s hard to see but the lines with a arrow under them are the 3 3/4 marks the ones with no arrows are for 1 3/4. I can make the cant size to multiples of either size. Cut that size turn and cut the other size, using the same stick. I make a new stick for any size a customer may want.

rbarshaw

I apreciate all the ideas, still haven't heard from the dial style guage users yet tho'.

Well I came home from work today and found the mill head laying on the ground :o, the wind had rolled it down the length of the bed gathering enough speed to flip it off the end :o :o, all is well tho', no damage to it :) :), guess I built it solid enough. That will teach me to leave it unfastened when not in use. I just brought my engine lift over and lifted it back on the rails :) ;).
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

woodbowl

rbarshaw,
       How's things going? We haven't heard from you in a while. I just wanted you to know that your homemade/motorcycle sawmill post are Forestry Forum treasures and you are an inspiration to all us rednecks entrepreneurs that desire to build their own mill as well as other projects.

Have you been sawing lately or doing any more building? We'd love to get an update on your last mods if any. Got another homemade project in the works? We need some more unique head scratching ideas from good ole' original thinkers like you.


8)  8)  8)  8)
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

rbarshaw

Sorry all, I've been very busy with problems at work and church and a colledge course i'm taking. I am working on a new mill, It's 4' wide and 24' long and the carriage is rolling on it, but little progress in months. The motorcycle mill is dismantled due to oak being too heavy and causing things to bend beyond repair. I'll see if I can get a few pics here for yall.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

DanG

Hey Bob!  Good to see you back on here.  I'm glad you haven't forgotten us.  So, a big ol' oak crunched the woodcycle, eh?  That's a bummer.  Sounds like one of them lessons that will NEVER leave ya.  I take it you're makin' the bed real stout on the new one.  Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress. ;)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Fla._Deadheader


I was just thinkin we haven't heard from Robert in quite a while. Good to know YOU are OK  8) ;D ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

woodbowl

Well there you are! I was wondering if everything was OK. Sorry about your mill taking a hit from an oak tree. It almost sounds like a revenge from the forest. On the other hand, what a way to go. Looking forward to seeing those pics from your newest creation.  8)
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Swede

Must been a very big oak!

Last weeks and coming month I´m sawing spruce felled of the storm jan 8 -05. most of them are Ø 20"- 28 by 17´ and sprayed with water. A board 2"x9" is what I can take from the frame and lift up to the pile 5´high. When turning a log sqared at 3 sides makes me nervous and the sawmill is jumping sideways.

rbarshaw! I´m also waiting for a picture or three! For me there is a conflict between strong and low weight/mobility but you can´t use half a sawmill! ;D

Swede



Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

olyman

Quote from: rbarshaw on May 02, 2007, 10:33:15 PM
Sorry all, I've been very busy with problems at work and church and a colledge course i'm taking. I am working on a new mill, It's 4' wide and 24' long and the carriage is rolling on it, but little progress in months. The motorcycle mill is dismantled due to oak being too heavy and causing things to bend beyond repair. I'll see if I can get a few pics here for yall.
that definetly sucks-----on the pic of your engine. the fan is blowing way too low for the fins. need to take some ductwork metal, and force the air over the top fins of the engine, as thats where most of the heat is created. not being wise either--i just happen to know where one of these is---and i believe i can get it for cheap!!! cool mill-----------

rbarshaw

OLYMAN

When I used to run that mill, it cut about 5000 bdft with no cooling fan attached, I confess the fan was mostly to blow away the sawdust and to cool me!
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

abatol

I know I'm late with the congrats  but you deserve it. ROCK ON WIT YA BAD SELF.   8) I cant wait to see your next saw.
It doesn't matter what shape the board is as long as it's a rectangle. Smiley   Stolen Quote Thanks TOM

Grademan009

Great job
I would like to know what did you use on the side of the saw
that doesn't have the mandrel on it? for a bearing and how its mounted?

We were considering a 6 post design much like a Hudson along with a
dogging system much like theres maybe upgrading to air or hydrolic so we can build a log turner into it.

Then going to much larger blades like the big mills run with the thought of getting there broken blades having them sharpened and fixed to our lengths where there are lots of mills in our area.

With the hope sawing maybe 5000ft a day with a two saw edger. I have had lots of stick mills and one band mill.
The sawing 1000 feet a day with was the part I didn't like. Were in the hunting and gathering right now. We plan on using a Kawasaki 750 motor cause who knows how fuel will be. We are open to any tips and helpful information great forum. 
Thank you

rbarshaw

Grademan900

I used the mobile home axel's bearing, I just cut the axel off a few inches from the wheel and welded it to a plate, hinged the plate and uaes that to track the blade.

The 8th pic down on page 7 of this post shows a little of this.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

rbarshaw

I've finally got tires for my mill, they're urethane, 2" wide. Any suggestions on installing, gluing these up. The mfg. Suggested 3M weather strip adhesive. Also suggested to crown them by using duct tape around the wheel under the tire in three layers, first 1/2" wide, each succesive layer 1/2" wider.

I see I've put this on the wrong thread, but I can't find the thread I started for the new mill I'm building!

Please disregard this pst, I've found and put it on the correct thread.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

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