Husky 372 vs. 575

Cedarman · March 27, 2005, 05:32:10 PM

It is time for another saw. I have used several 372 with 20 bar and love them. Went to the local saw shop to check out a new saw. They have a 372 and a 575. The 372 is $619.95 and the 575 is $685.95 including chain and 20 inch bar.

I am not so concerned about price as they are 15 minutes away and give absolutely great service. They will immediately check any saw problem I have and fix it immediately if its a 10 minute job or a day or two if major. But I don't have to wait for a prognosis.

I have read the previous posts and have some concerns about the new 575 holding up. But I understand it is more effiecient and will cut about 25 per cent more wood.

I am looking for all opinions on which way to go.

fishhuntcutwood · March 27, 2005, 08:25:38 PM

I got the Bailey's sale flyer the other day, and they've got some 372's for sale in there. I'm a Stihl guy, and I'm thinking about buying one! I've not heard anything bad about the 372, and I'd guess that most guys would recommend it.

Russ?...

Take care all,
Jeff

Hoop · March 28, 2005, 10:29:09 AM

The 372 is one of the best saws ever to come down the Husqvarna production line.

The 575 is NOT.

I purchased a new 575 back in November. To date, I have used it exactly 4 days. I just don't like the thing.
It has a more ergonomic handle, quieter muffler and leak proof gas/oil caps.

It weighs about a pound more than the 372. It seems like a lot more.

As far as I'm concerned, the saw has less power than a 372.

Before I purchased the 575, my dealer told me how the 575 would get far better gasoline mileage. I sure didn't notice any.

After using the 575 for 3 days, I immediately went out and found another source (my local dealer can't get any more 372's) to purchase a couple of 372's.

My 575 sits in my toolbox. I regard it as one of the worst saws Husky has ever produced.

jjmk98k · March 28, 2005, 01:37:18 PM

Hoop, did you give the 575 enough break in time, or did you just dislike it overall. I found that my 350, like most power equipment, runs better after it's been "run in" for a while.

I been kicking around buying a 372 before they are gone!

logger · March 28, 2005, 03:39:41 PM

What about the 570?

jokers · March 28, 2005, 05:00:45 PM

Hi Hoop,

I`m well aware of your displeasure with the 575 and can understand that it is not the apparent equal to the 372, BUT I think you could be happier with it if you adjusted your carb differently.

If your saw seems down on power compared to a stock 372 and it is also getting poor fuel economy, I`d be surprised if your carb isn`t adjusted too lean and your running against the rev limiter.

The factory spec for the limiter is 13,600 but mine actually comes on at anywhere from 13,400 to 13,600, it`s a moving target. What happens when you are on the limiter is that the sparkplug does not fire every time like it should which causes alot of wasted, unburnt fuel and lower than normal power. Mine is adjusted to 13,300 and has good power and very good fuel economy. Since you already have the saw, why not readjust your carb and see what happens? You also could have taken advantage of the Crown Commitment and returned that saw within 14 days if you are so unhappy. I`m sorry that you may not have known this.

The 570 is just a less powerful and somewhat cheaper 575. I`d get a 372 before they are all gone.

Russ

Cedarman · March 29, 2005, 12:01:40 PM

Bought a 372xp today. Dealer said Husky had told him you need a winter kit for operating 575 under 40 degrees because the carb is so far from heat.

jjmk98k · March 29, 2005, 03:17:51 PM

need a kit for under 40 degrees? wow, since when is + 40 considered cold?

I am by no means a expert when it comes to saws, but that sounds like one more strike against the 575.

jokers · March 29, 2005, 03:31:44 PM

Quote from: Cedarman on March 29, 2005, 12:01:40 PM
Bought a 372xp today. Dealer said Husky had told him you need a winter kit for operating 575 under 40 degrees because the carb is so far from heat.

Well does this statement make any sense to anyone? What`s going to happen, the saw turns into a pumpkin? Is this dealer implying that as long as fuel with water in it is kept warm enough to flow, it won`t cause damage to an engine? Is there general agreement here that water freezes at 32°F? What is the significance of 40° vs 32°?

Some statements smell so much like BS that you have to ask if that might be the case. I can say that my 575 ran fine at -10° with swirling snow in the air, I didn`t have to put the saw down in the snow so maybe that would be a problem, but I`m not sure that`s what is being alluded to.

Any more details Cedarman?

Russ

jjmk98k · March 29, 2005, 03:36:20 PM

Jokers,

go ahead, tell us how you really feel. 8)

logger · March 29, 2005, 09:13:49 PM

Well I know that water freezes in 32 degrees, BUT the flywheel spinning at over 13,000 rpm will DEFINETLY make it colder. It also has to deal with the humitidy in the air too. Not so much the cold ness. I've ran my stihl 440 in 0 degree weather and it neaver froze up. I didn't have the winter shutter on. So it comes down tthe humitidy in the air at 35 to 40 degrees. That is what my dealer says.

jjmk98k · March 29, 2005, 09:38:58 PM

surely there is enough heat generated from the saw / muffler hanging out in the saw case to prevent freezing in the 25 degree and above range......

just my guess....

I ran my 350 at +15 and didnt have any problems, but the humidity was near 20%, which is like nothing....

wiam · March 29, 2005, 11:08:08 PM

32 degree air going 100 mph is 32 degrees. :P

sigidi · March 30, 2005, 06:36:08 AM

so just to sum up - I can keep my 372 and don't need to go to the missus and justify buying a 575???

jjmk98k · March 30, 2005, 08:18:29 AM

from what I gathered reading what everyone else is posting, the 372 is a keeper, the 575 has a lot to prove yet

jokers · March 30, 2005, 08:35:48 AM

To sum it up, I like the 372 better than the 575, but I think it`s too early to pen the 575`s obituary and when we do, let`s base it on fact, not supposition.

I really can`t imagine what Cedarman`s dealer is talking about and I`d like to remind logger`s dealer that air at 35° to 45° holds less moisture than air at 70° so the total amount of moisture in the air is lower at cooler temps. Somes saws, most notably some Stihls, had severe problems with water ingestion when cutting in deep snow. I haven`t seen nor heard of this problem with the 575 but welcome the opportunity for an education if anyone has any credible examples of a problem.

I`ll have to take a picture showing the carb arrangement and it`s proximity to the engine for those of you not familiar with it. Unfortunately with the hours I`m putting in, it may not be right away.

I agree with jjmk98k`s statement.

Russ

woodsjunkie · March 30, 2005, 08:41:34 AM

Ok I am some what confused with all this rev limiter stuff maybe someone can clear this up for me. I may be wrong but if the 575's limited to 13,600 and you have taken it down below 13,600 with a tach and turned it back up to13,600. I understand at a free rev it's going to hit the rev limiter and possibly get poor economy but I would think it should come OFF the limiter as soon as it hits the wood and you start working it rite? I don't think riching up the carb to 13,300 on a stock 575 is going to help any thing unless the saw is pulling 13,300 in the wood witch I highly doubt, if it is you need to cut racker's or sharpen your chain.

fishhuntcutwood · March 30, 2005, 09:30:47 AM

As far as the whole winter/low temp usage issue, I think it may have more to do with carb icing than fuel icing. There's a low pressure spot at the carb intake, and lower pressure air is cooler and more prone to atmospheric condensation, ( this can be demonstrated if you look at the top side of the wings of an F-16 or 15 when they climb out of level flight at a high rate of speed, there's a low pressure zone behind the wing, and you get a cloud that forms) and if it's cold enough, that condensation will freeze. This is why you have carb heaters on planes. The fuel shouldn't freeze because you've got Prist, or some other addative in it, but the carb will freeze up on it's own, regardless of moisture in the fuel.

Take care all,
Jeff

Cedarman · March 30, 2005, 10:06:47 AM

Dealer said Husky recommends the heating kit for operation at below 40 degrees. Will call him again today for more details.

jjmk98k · March 30, 2005, 10:13:34 AM

I think, and it's just my mechanics logic going to work here, that since the carb is attached to the head, there should be enough heat soak from the engine to keep the carb well warm enough at anything above 0 degrees. I would also suspect that ambient air around the carb would be warmed by the engine heat as well. If its snowing and the saw ingests a good amount of snow... thats another issue and one I feel no way qualified to discuss. but my logic still says the engine heat would make any snow that gathers around the carb to melt.

I know the saw is sucking in some air, but we're not talking a 454 with a blower and dual quads...

Cedarman · March 30, 2005, 12:18:43 PM

Just talked to the dealer who said he got his info from Husky. He said the carb is farther out on the saw and allows more cold air next to the carb that might cause problems. The heat kit is to keep more warm engine air close to the carb. He said he thinks the 575 is a good saw. It is different and will take people a while to get used to it. They had to pay their engineers to do something.

You all buy some 575s and run them a couple years. If they are real good then I'll follow you. Don't like being the leader when I have a good saw in hand.

jokers · March 30, 2005, 04:00:00 PM

Quote from: woodsjunkie on March 30, 2005, 08:41:34 AM
Ok I am some what confused with all this rev limiter stuff maybe someone can clear this up for me. I may be wrong but if the 575's limited to 13,600 and you have taken it down below 13,600 with a tach and turned it back up to13,600. I understand at a free rev it's going to hit the rev limiter and possibly get poor economy but I would think it should come OFF the limiter as soon as it hits the wood and you start working it rite? I don't think riching up the carb to 13,300 on a stock 575 is going to help any thing unless the saw is pulling 13,300 in the wood witch I highly doubt, if it is you need to cut racker's or sharpen your chain.

Eric,

I agree with the premise that the saw ought to be right on if tuned the way that you describe, but as I noted, the rev limit seems to be a moving target on my saw. Sometimes it will free rev 13,600, sometimes only 13,400.

Of course the saw isn`t pulling 13,600 or even 13,400 rpm in the cut but if you tuned the saw by ear to fourcycle out of the cut, how would you know for sure that you aren`t simply running lean and on the limiter? That seems to be where the problem lies. At any rate, I can demonstrate this condition and the poor fuel economy when on the limiter for you at the next GTG if there is sufficient wood available.

"There's a low pressure spot at the carb intake, and lower pressure air is cooler and more prone to atmospheric condensation"

Icing I assume,Good point fhcw. But without moisture, what is going to freeze? The carb body itself can be -100°, but as long as the fuel(or water contained within) doesn`t freeze, does it matter? I agree with jjmk98k that heat soak from the engine in the typical temperatures where a saw will be operated should be sufficient to keep reasonably water free fuel from freezing.

Russ

fishhuntcutwood · March 30, 2005, 05:36:32 PM

Russ, the moisture in the air is what freezes. The freezing problem isn't in the fuel, or even IN the carb, it's at the carb's inlet. First of all, I'll say that on a chainsaw, even in most freezing ambient air temps, it's not likely an issue. I'm speaking from knowledge on air craft, where the entire carb intake freezes over, or freezes enough to stop or disrupt air flow through it, and the plane crashes. Same thing can happen on a turbine, except since there's no carb, it happens at the inlet to the compressor. I agree though that in a saw, the pressure differential would be very minimal and not enough to ice the carb up, along with the thermal bleed over from the carb being mounted in such proximity to the engine itself. I'm just guess that this is where the saw companies are coming from when they want us to heat our carbs when it's cold outside. ???

Take care all,
Jeff

sawguy21 · April 24, 2005, 08:56:36 AM

I have had considerable dealings with saws and deep snow. Without the winter kit, snow gets pulled in around the carb and filter, melts, then freezes after the saw is shut off. There is usually enough heat from the engine to prevent icing from high speed intake air. This is a problem on Honda engines because the crankcase vent tube freezes then she starts puking oil. I have seen crank seals pushed out.
FWIW, yesterday I took part in a demonstration of a rescue or vent saw attachment used by the fire departments. The bar has a slot to accomadate an adjustable depth guage and it was equipped with carbide tip chain. I cut a pallet full of nails, 14ga galvanized sheet metal, a roll of roofing material, drug it through the dirt and then cut a log!! Went completely against the grain to abuse a saw like that :D
They had it mounted on a 372XP as they found the Husky has the best filtration system to deal with the smoke, water and debris that comes with a fire.
I also tried the 570, good wide powerband, 575, heavy and no faster than a 372 although it may need to be broken in, and the 455. The 455 is smoother and more comfortable than the 55 but I still like ol reliable. Apparently, the 55, 365 and 372 will be available here for another two years

StihlDoc · April 24, 2005, 10:05:19 AM

On chain saws with isolated carburetors, carb icing happens more frequently than most realize. The high velocity of air moving through the carb venturi causes some of the atomized fuel in the air stream to evaporate which basically turns the carburetor into a mini refrigerator. At 40 degrees ambient temperature with 60+% relative humidity it is possible for the carb body to reach temperatures below freezing. The moisture in the air will freeze on the walls of the carb venturi, forming frost. The frost can form over the idle fuel feed orifices and also restrict fuel flow coming out of the high speed fuel feed nozzle. Erratic running and poor idle are usually the symptoms of carb icing. In extreme instances piston seizure can result.