iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

chain sharpening

Started by Robert R, March 27, 2005, 01:47:02 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Robert R

In the past, I had a chain, I used it all winter (or 2) and paid $3.50 to get it sharpened before the next heating season whether it needed it or not.

Now, I have 6 chains, I change them about every 2 cutting days (combined total of about 6 hours cutting time) and take them in a group to be sharpened at $3.50 each.  I am quickly figuring that I can save in the long run sharpening my own.  I bought some files (cheap ones) and after a couple of uses on my Stihl chains, they slide rather than rasp and it also didn't take me long to get things where I could not cut a straight line. 

So here I am, wondering what to do.  How do I go about best sharpening my own chain.  What equipment do I need?  And I am not to ashamed to say that I don't even know what it means to "true up" the bar rails.  What do you do for bar maintainence and why?  I am on the steep end of the learning curve and am just starting to eak out of my saw its true potential.  I feel I should understand these things before I upgrage to a bigger saw or I won't be getting the most bang for my buck.  Thanks for any hints and help.  Y'all have helped me more than you'll ever know already.
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

Minnesota_boy

First step is to buy a good file and a cheap chain.  Next step is to practice, practice, practice.  Sharpen the cheap chain every time you fill the fuel tank.  Sharpen the chain every time you hit the ground.  Sharpen the chain every time you hit something hard in the log.  Sharpen every time it cuts crooked.  When that chain is sharpened to where there is nothing left to sharpen, buy another cheap chain and start over.  You'll probably find that the second chain is much better.  It will cut faster and last longer between sharpenings and will take you much longer to sharpen it away.  Then buy a really good file and a better chain.

Sharpening with a file isn't difficult, but sharpening well will take some learing time.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Lobo

1- You need a good vise to sit your saw in to start with, this will make the task far easier.

2- You need good quality round files correctly sized for your chain pitch to do the cutters themselves, I suggest somekind of a filing plate which will make the sahrpening task far easier. If you are using Stihl chain purchase a Stihl filling plate and raker gauge, if you are using Oregon chain purchase theirs, etc.

3- After every 2-3 cutter sharpening you will need a raker set gauge and the correct raker flat file to lower the rakers proportionnally to the cutter filing set back.

4- You will find on various chainsaw manufacturer or chain manufacturers web sites tutorials on how to properly file your chains. I suggest you read these many times, the more you understand these tutorials the better off you will be.

5- PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE and MORE PRACTICE.

It's easy enough for anyone to learn and do, you just need to put the time and effort in to it.

Good luck

Lobo

Can someone please explain to me how to put a picture on here.

Kevin

Robert, make sure you have the proper size file for that specific chain, buy a roller guide or similar device, make sure the chain is adjusted properly , all the cutters are the same length and the bar is dressed.
You can buy a dressing tool from a dealer.
If you search the subject there should be oodles of info on this subject here.

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf

Lobo


rebocardo

I bought the Granberg filing tool (about $24) and it really helped getting the angles and stuff down so performance was repeatable. Being pot metal, it did not last me that long and I had to mickey mouse a lot of repairs to it. Maybe I bear down too hard trying to unstone chains?

I bought files from my local dealer called "Timber Savage" and the 7/32 has worked well.

I just bought the cheapest chain sharpener from Baileys, about $150. The main reason was I took too much off my rakers  >:( and cuttting the top plates back by hand would take forever. Plus, I had a couple of stoned and lagged chains to do.

I have given it a few tries and it seems to work okay. I do not think it will give as fine of an edge as doing it by hand and you get a little curl of metal over the top plate from the grinding. I have not had a chance to go cut something with the newly sharpen chains. They seem sharp enough though.

Like everyone else says, practice. It takes me a while to do a chain, but, it usually ends up sharper by hand then anything I can buy in a store.


timberjack240

robert
i recently (and still am) learned to sharpen a saw. i had  a problem of cutting to deep so my pap brought me a file gauge so i couldnt cut to deep. he said that the angle isnt as important as the depth. but i use the gauge all the time now and the saw is fairly sharp. i HIGHLY recommend getting a gauge to file with. it really helps and eventually you can stop using it. another thing i would adivise is a roomy place, a vice, and lots of light to see what yur doin
they make several types of gauges. you can get them at baileys and you shood be able to get one at yur local dealer if you wnat to try one.

timberjack 240

tony_marks

practice and time an experience finfing what causes what.. plus any tutoring from someone who knows how.. they can really save you time..then practice practice.jmo

Thank You Sponsors!