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Gotta Die-Lemmer

Started by Fla._Deadheader, March 19, 2005, 05:54:37 AM

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Fla._Deadheader


Since we have started using the Monkey blades, and sharpening them ourselves, we have a problem.

  We put a sharp blade on the mill and fired 'er up. There was a shrill sound emitted, and it took me all day to track it down.

  Seems that the roller guide wheels are now hitting the very bottom of the Gullet, just enough to set off this sound  ::)  When we idle down, there is a very fast "ticking" sound, from the roller edge touching the bottom edge of the tooth, at the gullet.

  We have actually ground down the blades, so we are below a usable width.

  Should we order 2 new guides, and grind a slight bevel onto the front edge ???  Hate to throw away some good blades.  Might consider selling them to someone that uses a 1" blade ???   Any suggestions ??????
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

BBTom

I have been having the same problem with my Woodmizer blades.    I have also found that if you try cutting with it like that, it will dive right away, due to the blade no longer being level.  Seems that the burr left on the blade pushes the front of the blade away from the roller (down) and that is where the blade heads.   I do have a couple old rollers, maybe I will grind off the front edge and stick a couple new bearing s in them,  might get another run or two from those blades.  Hmmmmmm.  Might work, Thanks for the idea  FDH, I will label them my DeadHead rollers!!!
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

gmmills

    When that happens to me I usually save the blade to for use cutting hardware logs. Hit the hardware and throw the blade in the scrap. My blades that get too narrow have been sharpened 8-10 times under normal use.  When the blade is that narrow you have sharpened the tooth past or near the end of the hardened area. Will not stay sharp as long. I have two 1 1/2 blades that have been sharpened 13 times by the end of this week.  They are too narrow.

    To change to a narrower roller to use a blade that will not stay sharp as long isn't worth it to me. My luck the blades would break before the finished the first cut.

     

   
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Buzz-sawyer

Being a big tight wad, :D I would get a second set of rollers, then save up my my narrow blades till I had a mess of em, the switch rollers till I burned up all the skinny's. Then switch back to fat boys..........and repeat.
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

D._Frederick

Fla_,

Are the MONKEY blades hard back or flex back? When you grind them down that far,are the teeth tips still hard?

Percy

On my LT70, I use 1 and 1/2 inch blades but have 1 and 1/4 inch blade guide rollers installed. Not to often I get the blades so skinny as they dont work on these guides. The odd time maybey and that blade has earned more than it keep and the Double hard stuff has all been removeyaleted so she gets a  royal sendoff to the scap metal pile... ;D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Fla._Deadheader


  I don't really think that the Monkey's ARE hardened just for the teeth. We cut some more Exotic stuff today, and they cut right on through. This stuff is hard.

  Wanna talk about REALLY hard ???  We cut a Pecan, that was 36" dia., and had been laying out for 4 years. The blade sure did chatter, with the 13° hook angle, but, we made the customer real happy.  That's the bottom line, right ???

  Maybe we can get the Swede to check out the manufacturer in Sweden, and give us a report on the hardness ideas of them Monkey's. ??? ???  Hey, Swede, wadda ya think ???  Can ya help us ???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Furby

Harold,
You have the guides with a flange on the back, correct?
Could you simply make or have made a spacer to slide over the guides to shim the blade out from the flange?

Fla._Deadheader


  Furby, that spacer would have to be DanG hard.  The blade drags against that flange when it's cuttin. It would also have to be heated and slipped over the roller. That would be a lot of precision work. ::) ;D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Furby

Depends, how hard are those rollers to begin with?
How cheap can ya do it? Cheaper then tossing the blades or buying new rollers to grind down?
As long as they spin they won't cut through as fast, right?
Myself, I'd somehow try to make up a couple of washers that would just barley slide on the rollers and give it a go. Maybe grind out some 1" grade 8 washers to fit. If the washers wear a little, big deal! I would stop at the first sign of any wear on the rollers though.
Or, if ya are going to shim out a little more, use a narrow piece of thick wall pipe and a few set screws to lock onto the rollers, as long as it's spinning.........

Anyways, it's just my half penny or so, just tossing out cheap ideas.

Swede

Ï´ve used Håkanssons blades (Suffolk), hardened teeth and back. If they get bent it´s easy to bend them back by hand. They feels like a regular sheet metal strip. That´s what I ment a year ago saying they they are "more forgiving".

Monkeys are much harder to bend back after they jump off or what ever happens. Feels more like "spring steel".  They also "breaks of" more than Håkanssons/Suffolk blades wich seems get broken more by stretch.

Have a new Monkey at my desk now, 0.035x1,35, 1P/", 10*. The whole blade looks hardened, a little blue. From the tips and 1/4" down the theeth looks glowed  after sharpening.
Yes them Monkeys ARE hard! :) Mine use to get broken after 2-3 sharpenings but these 0,035x1,35 I think will last longer than 0.039x1,25 I used before. Perhaps I´ll do better changing to mobile home wheels? ;)

Swede.
Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

Buzz-sawyer

Swede
Now you got it!
I run a circular mill, but even I know RUBBER wheels are the solution :D ;)
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Fla._Deadheader


  Right on, Swede.  I was thinking the Monkeys are more like spring steel, which, I guess, would indicate full hardened blade, from tooth to back of blade ???  They CAN be straightened, but, take a LOT of abuse before they bend.  We have a 24" dia. on our tired mill.

  We MIGHT be having a problem showing up on one tire on our mill.

  Looks like "D" is right. After nearly 350,000 bf/ft, we may have to buy a new tire. DanG, $32.00 for only 100,000 miles. ::) ::) ::)  That's terrible mileage, huh.  ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

  Too bad we used MH wheels and tires to ride the mill on. Coulda dropped it on down to hwy use and got another 30,000 miles.  Bad Injunearin job finally rears it's ugly head.  Gonna hafta check PSI before replacing, though.  ;D ;D ;D :D :D :D :) :) :)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

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