How to fix broken choker chain ?

[Madman_Mark]

I broke a choker chain ( 6 footer) the other day that I use with my Farmi logging winch.
It's 70 grade chain and it broke about mid length.
What's the best way to fix it, or is it worth fixing ?
Thanks.

[Tom]

I would use a "cold shut".   You can probably order a grade 70 comparable shut.  It has been recommended to me to use one size larger than the chain.

[tnlogger]

toms right on the cold shunt another way is to get a hammerlock to fit the chain.
baileys and madens used to sell them. but i coun't find any thing on their web site.

[wiam]

Problem with repairing is that hook might not slide over repair link.  If you can find a 2 piece repair link (looks like 2 C's)  they are pretty close to the same as the chain size.  You also might need the repair link to go through your slider.

Will

[Madman_Mark]

Thanks guys, I checked my Baileys catalog and found a "hammerlock" but no "shunts". How does the hammerlock work?

[maple flats]

I think a hammer lock is a type of repair link that is in pieces and you hammer rivets to assemble it, but not sure. JUst make sure the repair link is strong enough to compare to the grade chain you repair. I wouldn't make it bigger or you would run problems trying to get it to slide when needed. The rivets simply hold the final laminated link tegether and in themselves are not usually a weak link.

[Cedarman]

I am curious, just how did you break such a strong chain?

[Tom]

Look for Cold shuts
.
http://www.lacledechain.com/hardware/accesscold.html
http://doityourself.com/store/chaincoldshuts.htm
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/html/subcategorylist567-3_1.htm

Tack weld when you shut them.

[ADfields]

Try
http://www.piercewrecker.com/    or    http://www.awdirect.com/

You need a double clevis or coupling link of grade 70 or better, like on this page.
http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/catalog.cfm?dest=dir&linkid=394&linkon=subsection

I would never use a cold shut on a live load chain, They are ment for tye down only and at best grade 40.   Most are not even graded at all, some are even cheep cast aloy junk from China today.
Andy

[rebocardo]

I think the real question is what someone else posted, how did you break it? If it broke from yanking, then most likely all the other links are stressed and ready to fail too. Look and see if they are elongated, like this chain I destroyed



The trouble with shunts and such is they are way weaker then a #70 chain. About 1/3 - 1/2.

If you have 5/16 #70, then you can buy a stainless steel 3/8 shackle (don't get the galv. - too brittle and will crack - rated only 2k) that will barely fit between the links. You might have to lightly file the inside of a link to fit the 3/8 pin though, the shackle will fit. I know, because I have fit my tow chains together doing this.

Myself, using this chain with a winch, I would just scrap it. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link and I would not want the chain or the cable it is attached to hitting me or the tractor. Six feet of new chain is only $15-$24

[Tom]

Other than the experienced replies offered on this Forum,  there are few places to go to find out the correct procedures to use to repair broken or faulty equipment.

I have used cold shuts for years because they were the strongest thing available and the only thing recommended to me by those I felt were in the know.  That doesn't mean that I am following safe procedures or that I have "the answer".  I try to keep an open mind on such stuff and will research it every time, even though I know of only one answer.

So I dutifully went to the only thing at my disposal, the Webb. You know, there is very little out there on the 'repair of chains"?  You can find some info on roller chain, bicycle chain and a few sites that sell link chain repair items if you know where to look.  There is nobody out there that will commit to having the knowledge, or at least to share it, on how to repair a link chain.

In this case, one is put in the spot of reading between the lines.   I looked at working loads and found that most cold shuts don't carry working loads much stronger than a piece of nylon rope.  I would guess that they are actually less than nylon rope when you apply shocking forces. 

i again was reminded to use a cold shut one size larger than the chain.  That isn't a comforting feeling in itself.

I found sites on Rock Climbing where the climbers have been using cold shuts for bolt hangers rather than the certified bolt hanger.  A bolt hanger being a device that is driven into a rock face and holds the rope that is supposed to save your life if you fall. :-\

The outfit doing the testing found that cold shuts were good for about 2000 lbs or less of strength in an application where weights of 6000 lbs are possible and where certified hangers range in excess of 6500 lbs.


Regardless of the type of repair, the best comment I was able to find stated that broken chain should be replaced.  Repairs were temporary at best.

Given this information, I'm sure that most adults will still try to repair a chain, at least until a new one can be purchased.  It would still behoove us to keep in mind that we are working with an inferior device.  If it is only our own lives at stake, we may internalize that we can do what we want.  In the case of a working piece of equipment, other's lives are involved and we shouldn't forget it.  If the chain breaks, we may release a projectile that could harm someone.  We might turn a load loose that would crush an unsuspecting individual.  We might cause someone else grief where we never meant to do it.

Having this information at hand now, I think that the only proper answer I could give is to buy another chain.

[leweee]

buy another chain.

atta boy Tom ....saftey first ;D

[maple flats]

Ya know, this sounds safer. I now agree that you should buy another chain unless the broken link was not from stress to the entire chain but isolated damage to one link. Not quite sure how you would do that. After listening to all of the replies I WILL BUY A NEW CHAIN the next time that happens to me!!! smiley_fused_bomb smiley_fused_bomb smiley_fused_bomb

[bitternut]

I guess if I were the one that broke a grade 70 chain I would first try to figure out why it broke. Maybe you need grade 80 chain. Then again maybe if you had stronger chain you would have broken your cable or some other part of your winch. You could even break the top link casting on your tractor. Saw pictures of a newer Kubota that did just that. Anyways, the weak link is always the place where things will break and you will have to decide just where that place will be, chain, cable, hook, repair link, etc.

Since I am a little on the frugal side I guess I would repair the chain with the strongest repair link I could find. Then I would paint the chain a special color and reserve that chain for light loads since it would no longer be rated at a grade 70.

[Madman_Mark]

Thanks again for all the replies, I've decided to buy another chain.
Might use the 2 broken pieces to make some tire chains someday, along with some more that I have.
That's the second choker chain I've broken in the last year, both 70 grade, identical chains bought brand new just over a year ago.
I broke them by overdoing it when they get fetched up on a stump or something with an 8000 lb pull Farmi winch, which is by no means a large winch. I've learned my lesson though.
The chains get nicks and scrapes in them and it weakens them.
Thanks again.

[maple flats]

next time you might try fransgard alloy chain. I've been using these for over 10 yaers with an 8800# pull fransgard winch. Stalled it out and stalled the tractor (70 HP) more than once. Never broke one of these yet, can't say the same on other chain I have used and some of it was stamped 70.