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how well does an alaskan beam machine work?

Started by Dan_Shade, February 18, 2005, 09:41:25 PM

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Dan_Shade

Today I tackled cutting up that curved log I posted about last week.  I ripped it free hand, which turned out to be a monumental nightmare, I'm sore all over :)

Anyways, after freehanding this thing, I was wondering how well the beam machine things work, how straight they let you cut,and if you have everything lined up, how well you can hit the side you already cut if you have to roll the log over to cut all the way through it.

at this point, if I come across another one this big, I'll have to figure something else out, I don't want to do this again...  I'm thinking either a really long bar and modifying my alaskan jig to accomodate it, or a beam machine.  i'm leaning towards a beam machine if it works....
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Tom

Dan,
I free hand all of my big trees.  With a little practice you will amaze yourself how accurate you will become.  Sawing with your sawmill will train your eye to see straight regardless of the corners and the log will not be so intimidating next time.

To get the cuts to come out exactly parallel is difficult anytime you make two cuts.  If you are splitting the log, then that doesn't even become a problem.  The heart crack wanders anyway.

As you become more self confident with your mill, you will probably be putting larger and larger logs on it and learning how to trim the log so that the mill will cut it.

If you are really concerned with making a straight cut through the log, think about a longer bar.

I find that it is just something else to worry about and am satisfied to do the best I can free-handing and getting the most lumber I can without spending my whole life preparing it. :)

Dan_Shade

Thanks, Tom.

I made a big mess of this one I was trying to make it moveable, and with the big curve it had in it, it was a real pain in the rear...

do you normally square up the one so they'll just fit on your mill? or just take a slab off?

I have a large oak lined up as well, it's straight, I'd like to not hack this one up so bad.

This cherry tree (43" diameter at the butt) was pretty much a test for what I've learned about handling these big ones.  I made a mess of it, and I'm exhausted with, but it's on my trailer :)
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Tom

Well!  See there?  You got it on your trailer and that was the goal. :D

I guess I approach a big log from 3 avenues. 
1. Am I after vertical grain? (split it.) 
2. Am I after flat grain? (cut hunks off of the side) 
3.  Is it so big that I just ant to bust it up?

Don't try to follow the curve of the log.  You need to cut straight the same as your sawmill will be doing.

There is very little lumber to be gotten out of the "ears".  Sometime I just start by cutting them off..

There is flat grain to be had in the "hump" so I will cut the hump off allowing for a face to be generated in the cant.

I may roll it over onto its ears now and split it down the middle.  Or I may cut it into thirds, favoring the center, so that it will be a little smaller than the capacity of the saw.

Remember!  There is nothing that says that you have to generate geometrically "like" pieces.  Cut the thing up so that you don't break your back.  Aim for the sawmill to do the most work later..

You will also find that there are positions of attack where your saw will work more efficiently.   I like to cut with the bar as parallel to the bark as I can.  It creates excelsior and I have to clean the saw frequently, but the wood cuts like butter.   When cutting the ends of the log, it is real easy to do this. You can even use your bucking teeth to help.  When cutting the middle of the log, I try to keep the bar at a 45 degree angle so that I'm not cutting purely end grain.

To see how hard end grain cuts, try cutting a piece of wood like you were splitting firewood with an Axe.  you get fine powder and the saw doesn't like it. 

Now lay the same little piece of wood on its side and lay the chainsaw on top of it, running the chain parallel to the bark.  It'll cut real easy but you will end up with long strips of excelsior.

I have to watch myself too.  For some reason it's human nature to try to cut everything up into geometrically like pieces.  Something makes us think that they all have to be the same size, the same configuration, contain the same grain, etc. ............when what you are really trying to do is make it manageable.  Yes you can favor certain configurations so that your sawmill can maximize the most flat or vertical grain, but don't lose sight of your major goal.  It's back breaking work enough without making it harder than it needs to be.  If somebody thinks you are doing it wrong...... hand them the saw. :D :D

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=427.msg4415#msg4415

Paul_H

Dan,

I copied this from an old post,is this the type of beam you want to cut?

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////


This Douglas fir beam is 16' across,13" thick and 24" on the wide end.  The inside curve was cut with our Alaskan mill,then we leveled the log on the MD,squared it up and made the second face(top).Then we finished it up with the Alaskan mill while still dogged on the mill.
It could have been finished by the MD,but I really didn't feel like flipping it over.




Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

KiwiCharlie

Paul,
What a neat stick!  I can just see that as a feature 3" thick breakfast bar.  Thats great.
Bring on the UGLY logs!
Cheers
Charlie.
Walk tall and carry a big Stihl.

Furby

Hey Paul, what ever happened to that log/cant/ah whatever it is, anyways?
I just went back and read the thread. ;)
Ya didn't send it to CK, did ya?

Paul_H

I just typed a reply and Microsoft told me that they were going to close  ???

Furby,

The beam is going to become part of an outside deck at a local builders home.He explained to me how it was going to fit in to his deck but I gotta admit I can't picture what he planned to do.He builds some really wild houses so I know it will turn out really nice.
I'll post pics when he finishes.Right now it's up on blocks and under a tarp by his front door.
I gave the thick bottom slab to a local youth church group and they made a curved bench for the kids to sit around the fire pit.

Charlie,
That log was pulled out of the firewood pile but it was sound as a nut and had some pretty grain. I think you might be on to something with your breakfast bar idea.
I'm always on the lookout for sharp curved logs now.
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

KiwiCharlie

Paul,
Theres a tree (still growing) on my place up north that really looks like it had its trunk tied in a knot when it was really small.  Looks bizzare, and I will try and get a pic for you when Im up there at Easter.  Would make an absolutely amazing "burl" so to speak!
I really like the 'deformed' pieces - they make amazing furniture, without laminating etc.  It makes me want to cry when logs like this go for firewood.  What a waste...
Like my username 'saying' goes - 'theres nuthin I like more than an UGLY log'.  Its really true! ;D
Cheers
Charlie.
Walk tall and carry a big Stihl.

MemphisLogger

Quote from: Dan_Shade on February 18, 2005, 09:41:25 PM
Anyways, after freehanding this thing, I was wondering how well the beam machine things work, how straight they let you cut,and if you have everything lined up, how well you can hit the side you already cut if you have to roll the log over to cut all the way through it.

Dan,

I use a beam machine and if i use a level to mark each end of the log and use a sharp (no wandering) chain, my cuts match up perfectly.

Our best trick requires 2 guys--one to hold the saw and rev it and another to push the saw through the cut by pushing on the beam machine with a 2x4. This method takes the work off the guy holding the saw.

On an even less labor intensive note, I'm fixin' to fab up a homemade version of the Logosol "Big Log" guide which locks the saw in cutting position and feeds it via a handcrank boat winch.

I will post drawings/pictures when done.
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Dan_Shade

what's the "big log" guide look like?

I'm thinking about getting a 42" bar and making a big alaskan style jig, the 2x4 way.  and then using a boat winch to pull the bar along as well.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

MemphisLogger

Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

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