iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Husky 359 RPM's

Started by Kirk_Allen, February 07, 2005, 10:08:51 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Kirk_Allen

I have a Husky 359 as a back up limbing saw and I think I may have gotten the wrong part.

The old sprocket was toast so I went to a Husky dealer and got a new one.  Couldn't compare the new one to the old one since the old one broke in peices and fell out in the woods.

Now it seems that the chain is lacking in RPM.  The motor runs great.  No problems starting or anything but it seems to cut MUCH slower now.  Chains are new or freshly sharpened.

Is there different sprockets for a 359 that will effect RPM of the chain?  What do you folks recommend in that regard.
Thanks

J_T

Don't know about the Husky but on Sthil you can get a 8 or 9 tooth sprocket For a beaver one tooth can make a big differnce  :D :D Chain saws too. ??? Oops may be 7 or 8
Jim Holloway

Tony_T

Besides the # of teeth mentioned by JT you also have to have the correct "pitch" (lenght of each link of chain) for the sprocket to match the bar/chain you are using.  For smaller saws usually 0.325 or 3/8.  The bar and/or chain should be marked with the pitch.  If pitch is incorrect teeth on sprocket and drivers on chain will miss match causing VERY rapid wear. 

If the pitch is correct is the chain just spinning too slow (not enough teeth) or motor has not enough power (too many teeth)?  If either you should be able to fix w/sprocket having correct # of teeth.

Two other thoughts. 

Did you clean the groove on the bar before you put it back on the saw?  A piece of the sprocket that blew wedged in the groove will also cause problems.  (It's good to clean the bar's groove everytime it's off anyway to remove wood debris)

If the the bar has a sprocket tip make sure it turns freely too.

Kirk_Allen

Lets assume its a 8 tooth sprocket.  That would mean that a 7 tooth would make the blade run faster correct?

As far as the bar goes, I dress the bar regulary and lube the sprocket tip every other tank of gas.  The problem happens both with my 18" bar and my 20" bar. 

leweee

Kirk....The sprocket should have the Pitch & Tooth# stamped on it. Example. (.375x7) 3/8 pitch. 7 tooth.
The Bigger the tooth # the faster the chain goes. ;D
just another beaver with a chainsaw &  it's never so bad that it couldn't get worse.

IndyIan

Hi Kirk,

If it was the stock sprocket that broke then it probably was a 7 tooth 3/8 pitch.  That's what a 372 comes with and I can't imagine a smaller saw would have a larger sprocket.  I find the the 372 chain speed plenty fast as well but I've never tried a bigger sprocket.
Did you grease the clutch bearing when you replaced the sprocket?  Got some in the clutch maybe?  I'd think that would be pretty obvious though...

I guess in theory, for a limbing saw it would be good to have very high chainspeed.  Zinging off 2-3" branches doesn't need much torque!  I like the 372 for this though, blip the throttle, off comes a limb!  Blipping down a white pine is good fun!

Ian


Kirk_Allen

I have a 372xp and it ZINGS!  However with a 28" bare on it I dont care to use it for limbing ;D  At the end of the day you know you have been sawing.

I will have to dig into the 359 book and see what I can find.......................if I only could remember what I did with that book?

ehp

FRom what I have seen up here is the older 359's had .325 gears on them andthe newer 359's have 3/8's gears on them make sure you have the correct pitch to the chain  cause that will really screwup the saw on power and hard on parts

Kirk_Allen

How do I tell what gear my saw has and how do I know what the pitch to the chain is?

Power seems to be the problem when cutting anything of size.

leweee

kirk ...check this out  [url]http://www.madsens1.com/sproktun.htm[/url
chain has numbers on the drive links that will tell you pitch. All three components have to match. Sprocket, Bar & chain. Hope this helps ::)
just another beaver with a chainsaw &  it's never so bad that it couldn't get worse.

tony_marks

 if shes fading in cut ,go to 7 tooth for more torque..other possibilities.. carb needs adjustment buy a pro..if the saws a high rpm saw.. u got to make sure it stays in its power band..

Kirk_Allen

ehp,
Here goes:
The saw is a 359 and the book says its a .325 /7 sprocket.  I confirmed the sproket is a 7 but cant find the size anywhere onit.  It is one of those ring type sprockets that slide over the clutch gear?

Here is the bad part.  The bar that came with it is a 3/8ths 18/45/.050 (60 drive links)  The book says it should be a .058  but that .050 is ok to use? 

I assume that the bar & chain is mismatched for the sprocket?

The book outlines the following:
Chain Speed at max power - 9,000rpm / 21.4m/sec  - 
Pitch .325"/8,25 and then under that it says 3/8"/9,52.
So how do I know if its a 325 or 3/8?

How on earth do you get the clutch mechanism off so you can get to the sprocket?  When I pull the cover you can see the clutch & spring mechanism but I see no way of getting it off.  The center hole in it is not a allen-head nor do I see any threads in it. 

My 372xp is much easier to get to. One snap ring and its off.  The 359 has me stumped and there is nothing in the manual on how to remove the old sprocket.

Thanks

ehp

It is up to you but I think I would take the saw to a dealer and have them put a 3/8's 7 tooth gear on it, you better look at the drivers on your chain and see if you have hammered them to death cause of the different pitch gear, forsure it didnot do it any good.
to take the clutch off is very easy with the correct tool , I donot like to see guys hammer on them to spin it off, have seen way to many clutchs break one of its arms off from hammering on it.
So just go to a dealer and get them to do it cause you most likely have a small spline  clutch drum on your saw and you will need to get a small spline 3/8's gear but it is better to have them do it, it will be cheaper in the long run

Kirk_Allen

How do you tell what gear is on it?  If I cant get the clutch off then I cant see any numbers on the sprocket. 

If the book says 325 sprocket is that what it has?  After thinking about it, the saw is 3 years old this month. 

What is the special tool for taking the clucth off?  Can I order one or is this a dealer only item?  The book says to change the sprocket when you put on a NEW chain. I have 6 chains for this saw so I can assume I have probably actually gone through a couple NEW chains with this sprocket.

I stopped into the dealer today and they told me it would be $65 labor to put on a new sprocket.  Sorry, I wont pay that.  Not for a part that only takes 5-10 minutes to replace. 

Any tips on getting the clucth off is appreciate.

Thanks


ehp

First if you walk in with the bar and chain off your saw it would take less than 1 minute to change the gear, and should be done free, that is what the way things are done up here at the dealers.

what I have done myself and seen others do is get a deep wall socket, not sure what you have for tools but machine it so if you have a 3 finger clutch it has three ears that fit in on the fingers and use a impact gun  , it will come off very easy , now make sure you are turning the correct way , most clutchs will have a off posted with an arrow telling you which way to turn it, if you are looking at the clutch , it turns clockwise to take off.
Another thing you could do is , if you have a 7 tooth 3/8's gear, measure the outside diameter of it. now  measure the diameter of the gear on your saw, count the number of teeth on the gear, if it is 7 teeth and is smaller than the 7 tooth 3/8's gear then you have a .325 gear, if the gear is very close in diameter to the 7 tooth 3/8's gear but has 8 teeth then you have a 8 tooth .325 gear,all you would need to do this is a outside metal calipers, cost is $3.99 here , any hardware store would have it , your 372 should have a 7 tooth 3/8's gear on it so you have a gear to measure the others against.
I am sure there are some guys on here that will tell you to put a piston stop in and take a punch and hammer and give the clutch a blow in the correct  direction , and most times it will come off but then sometimes you will break the finger on the clutch, fixed alot of saws with that problem.
if your chain is 3/8's then put a 3/8's 7 tooth gear on it

Kirk_Allen

Thanks for all  the advice. I have plenty of tools and this will be peice of cake.  I will keep you posted on the outcome.


ehp

Have fun, and find another dealer, by the sounds of it the one you have been dealing at is not very good

J_T

I would bet that sprokett was wore out a while back ??? If I could I would put the other type set up on when I got it apart  ???
Jim Holloway

Kirk_Allen

What other type of set up are you talking about?

ehp: I cant get to this for another week because of a business trip but was wondering, assuming its the wrong gear, what will the performance difference be like with the right gear?  Are the rpms of the chain going to be noticably different?

Thanks

ehp

First we would need to see if you have a .325 gear on your saw and using 3/8's chain, that would be a bad deal cause the chain drivers would be climbing on that .325 gear cause of the wrong pitch , you have to run a 3/8's gear when using 3/8 's chain. Now if you are using 3/8's chain use a 7 tooth 3/8 's gear  and more than likely your saw will have the small spline so you will need a small spline 7 tooth , 3/8's gear. when you get to it then we can see what is happening ,

jimc

Here's the poop on getting that clutch off...
The Husky tool part number is 502 52 22-02 "clutch removal tool" is about a 40$ list item,
Must be that gold plating and diamond studded logo eh?
My trusty local dealer doesn't have it , subscribes to the sledge hammer and punch method EHP warns about.
Also, Husky tool 502 54 15-01 "piston stop/plastic" at about 8$ is good to lock the crank unless you're going with the rope trick.
I have a 357, and agree that the inside out clutch is the only thing i dislike about  an otherwise sweet saw.
If i make a socket, I'll post the dimensions etc ...


Kirk_Allen

The sprocket is off.  It is stamped 3/8 7.  It has lots of wear.  There are gouge marks on the clutch portion where the chain drive teeth have bottomed out.  The outer part of the sprocket looks like it has lots of wear also.

I made the clutch removal tool with a 1" socket.  Took about 10 minutes.  One smack with the impact wrench and off it came.  Worked great.




I will try to get a new sprocket today before I leave.  The ID on this one appears to be just of 3/4".

ehp

I make all my clutch pullers myself also, make sure you check your chain cause you may have damaged the drivers.

Tony_T

No specials tools needed to take off the sprocket on any of my stihls , that's one thing they have over the Huskys  :)

Kirk_Allen

Tony, The larger husky saws dont need any special tools.  The 359 saw seems to be a oddball of the bunch. 

My dad has a stihl and a husky.  He ALWAYS grabs the husky! ;D

Thank You Sponsors!