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Sawmills and Milling / Re: A day cutting wood
« Last post by Peter Drouin on Today at 05:57:29 am »
A little snow, Is like a pour man fertilizer Paul.  :D :D :D :D :D
Chainsaws / Re: Husqvarna 55 cylinder options?
« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 05:52:54 am »
Absolutely jump up to the husky 61 family.  Thatll give you way more options.

I weld a dome on 2 ringed pistons for chinese 72cc jugs.  Port them, debur all the crappy edges and drill/ tap for a decompression right on top then cut the plastic to fit over it.  They balance well with a 24.

Starters are kinda weak so the decompressor is pretty important.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Any suggestions on a good portable sawmill
« Last post by grouch on Today at 05:50:58 am »
(OT: The velcro comment was intended to highlight, and possibly cause a 2nd look at, the sensible one it referenced.  ;D )
Chainsaws / Re: Recommendations for a new saw
« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 05:47:26 am »
Im not a farmboss fan at all in terms of fixing them.  Great when they run but harder than they should be to get the carb on and off imo.

In the plastic jonsereds and husky's you must keep exhaust bolts tight and loctited.  Once they loosen exh gas blows down and melts a hole through the top of the oil tank, i see this all the time.  Theyll strip exh bolts pretty easy, and become a pile of junk.

I am otherwise a big fan of jonsered for their removeable transfer port covers, makes them easier to port.  Husky 346xp or stihl 026 are both excellent saws for an 18" bar.  All metal, split case, every part available and easy to work on.  Older husky 351 is very close to a 346xp.  All metal jonsered turbos are great too.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Whatcha Sawin' ???
« Last post by grouch on Today at 05:47:11 am »

So... wanna know what the kicker is on this job?.. The client plans to use that cherry to build run in sheds for sheep they plan to get next year..... :o

NOOOOOO! Trade him some scruffy oak or something! That cherry needs to be a desk, cupboard, dining table, secretary, candle stand, etc.!

Sawmills and Milling / Re: Bringing an older LT40 back to service
« Last post by thecfarm on Today at 05:46:51 am »
Replace the tires if going down the road with it.
General Board / Re: Today's junkyard find.
« Last post by grouch on Today at 05:42:22 am »
That's the first gasoline powered portable circular saw I've seen.
General Board / Re: Taking Delivery
« Last post by grouch on Today at 05:38:36 am »
Excellent! It always bugs me to have to guesstimate the fuel level in a vehicle. One less worry when you have a working gas gauge.

The only instrument panel I've worked on that looks to be as cramped to get to as your truck is on my '68 Amazon. Nothing comes out from the front. My other Volvos and even my '80 truck have panels and subassemblies that come out to allow access to the back. The '49 Olds has a dash similar to your truck, but you can remove the seat and just lay down in the floorboard and see almost everything back there.

The best one I've worked on was my wife's '88 VW Fox. It needed a heater core and I dreaded working on it. The Bentley service manual had 1 paragraph describing replacement, but the second step referenced another part of the manual for removing the instrument cluster and panel. It meant removing the entire dash.

She was going to pick up the new one and would be gone for 1.5 to 2 hours. I sat and stared at the manual for a while and had some more coffee, then decided it just had to be done. In 30 minutes the entire dash was out on the ground. Ten to fifteen minutes later I had the heater core out. I just sat and marvelled at it until she got back with the replacement. Everything went back together easier than it came apart.
What doug said.  Stihl clamshells are a pain to test for leaks unfortunately.  The clamshell base sealant, crank seals, carb boot and impulse line are the usual suspects for leakage in that family.  If the jug is scored thats a pretty good confirmation.

There is a float tab adjustment inside the carb, and ive had issues like you describe drive me nuts until i got that dialed.  Theres a tool for walbros that looks like a W or you can maybe find a printable gauge that you cut out of paper.   

Id look down exhaust first to be sure the jugs not boogered up, then clip on an inline spark tester to make sure you arent actually losing ignition.  Clean up the wire connections and set the magnetic pickup gap to the flywheel with a business card in between them.

Also read madsens saw site tuning tech articles.  You need to find the highest idle speed point on the L screw, and the point where the saw 4 strokes at wot no load then cleans up and 2 strokes in the wood.  The plastic caps are limiters.  Most have a flatblade slot under them.  I pop them out with a sheetmetal screw and trim the limit tab off with toenail clippers

General Board / Re: backhoe from scratch and scrap
« Last post by grouch on Today at 04:59:20 am »
Continued revising and extending the first parts.

More welding of the mount.

Wrapping around the corner.

It's probable that I didn't need to fill all that space to tie the two pieces of 1/2 x 4 x 8 angle together, but I don't know any better.

I thought I would need to add a PTO powered hydraulic pump and therefore would need a reservoir. The subframe seemed like a good one. This turned out to not be needed, but the hole and bung will be a good inspection hole.

Some short pieces of pipe make the holes for the through bolts leak-proof.

And repeat for the other hole.
General Board / Re: backhoe from scratch and scrap
« Last post by grouch on Today at 04:47:06 am »
Revise and extend the first parts.

With the main frame of the backhoe about done, it was time to make a place to put it. I didn't know how I was going to mount it, way back when I built the subframe rails, so those rails were unfinished at the rear. It was time to clean 'em up and add some stuff.
To the left in the photo, the ear muffs are laying on what will be the lower half of the backhoe mount for one subframe rail. It's cut from 1/2 inch thick 4 x 8 angle.

Sometimes you can't avoid a grinder.

1/2 inch 4 x 8 angle welded to the rail.

Closer look at this first pass.

This has nothing to do with the subframe; it's one of the dogbone pieces of the bucket linkage. It is chronologically in order even if it's not logically in order. That's the way I work sometimes. :)

That's a rotary index table I bought from Grizzly, with a custom made milled, drilled and tapped disc brake rotor mounted on top of it. The dogbone is clamped to the rotor.

This is a revision of the front loader posts (a.k.a., towers). After using the loader for digging, I discovered that it was damaging the holes that were factory-threaded in the side of the bell housing. I had built boxes on the sides of the posts almost halfway up, and these were bolted to the bell housing.

My solution was to cut off those boxes and brace the posts to the subframe.

I used the come-along to preload the post, leaning it forward as far as the 1/2-13 gr 8 bolts in the base would allow. That determined where to put the mounts for that 1/4 inch wall 2 x 2 square tubing brace.

Paint ground off for welding the brace mount bracket.

General Board / starting a HF Greenhouse
« Last post by DDW_OR on Today at 02:53:06 am »
I got two of the 10x12 Harbor Freight green houses i am going to put back to back.
remove the three center panels from each, then use 5 of the 6 panels to make the resulting green house 2 feet wider in the center, so 26 feet long by 10 feet wide.
i will be adding two 55 gallon barrows in the center section.

digging a pit 15x32, then make a foundation out of Rail Road Ties in the pit 26x10.
then fill the inside and outside of the foundation with good soil.
then build the greenhouses.
will add the Modifications i saw on Youtube
Tape the panels
add cross braces
screw the panels to the frame

plan on growing Tomatoes, green peppers, green beans, peas, semi dwarf Oranges, semi dwarf Tangerines, in the greenhouse.
we are growing Zone 7. the record recorded low was -1F

using an OWB for winter heating.

may even put in a 3 person hot tub. have several double pane windows
Sawmills and Milling / Bandsaw Sawmill Build Questions
« Last post by William1961 on Today at 02:39:41 am »
Hello Everyone.
I am a newbee to your forum and realized I should join this group when I read all the info here.
Inspired me to proceed with my build.
I have accumulated 19" band wheel sheaves, 1 1/2" pillow block bearings, #40 chain, steel (2" sq tube) and most of what I need to start building the carriage.
I have attached a picture of what I call the Green Sawmill.
It is exactly what I would like to build but I cannot find any info on it.
I am looking for the dimensions of this sawmill.
Also would like to know the width of the carriage in order to cut atleast a 32" log.
I see lots of builds here but not too much on dimensions.
Any help with the Green Sawmill would be appreciated.

General Board / Re: Eclipse mania
« Last post by ljohnsaw on Today at 02:02:15 am »
Re: welding glass.  What I read in various places is that welding (at 1-3 ft) produces a greater amount of light and much more UV than the sun.  I have weld-burns that I think prove that. ::)  The internet (that I read) stated you needed at least shade 12 but 14 would be better.  The weld shop by me "said" they sold over 2,000 lenses in the last 2 weeks.  They only had 11s left.  Since my two helmets had 10s (one was pitted), I picked up a pair of 11s and used those.

We drove up Saturday to Catfish Junction on the Snake River in Oregon (9 hour drive (80mph limit for more than half the drive)) and camped with some internet friends.  Had a great time.  We were about 99.9% totality - about 15 miles south of the center but still had 2 minutes+ of darkness.  Will try to get my son's video of the darkness descending.

The temperature started dropping at about 25%, the wind picked up and it was great.  The shadows became very sharp - like someone set the contrast up to max.  Did not expect it to get so cold (about 15 drop in temp).  Everyone started howling when it went totally dark.

The tree shadows:


What I saw (with the camera) through the welding glass:


A funny sign made by punching holes in some paper:


As seen through someone's fancy telescope.  After the eclipse we could see some really cool sunspots!


Totality!  This was taken by my son with his cheap Nikon point and shoot:


Sign after the eclipse:


We (my son and I) both agreed that driving 460 miles was worth it but probably wouldn't do it again.  The eclipse that is going to occur in 7 years is supposed to go from Mexico to Maine.  Then in 2054 another is supposed to do a route from the south west to the north east.  Not sure if I will be around for that one!

We had an eclipse nut (this was his 5th - they occur about every 18 months) next to us in camp - he drove out (because he had family) from Ontario Canada.  He said at the last one he went to, a woman had witnessed 23!!! :o
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Sheoak sawing mission.
« Last post by Ianab on Today at 01:56:29 am »
Are you sure those are firewood? Looks like some art might be hiding in there, depending, of course, on finding the artist willing to pay for the cutting. :)

It's middle of winter here, firewood is what's on peoples mind, although this will be next years at this point. We have a line of Cypress at least that size, with some GOOD logs in it. Blair will probably take the majority of it, but I'm going to snag the best sawlogs out of that.

At least it was a nice day today, and we have a view where we are working.

This is a better looking tree.

And a short and unedited clip of it coming down. Still getting used to the new progressive lenses that seem to distort perspective as I look down. Makes it hard to judge how level the saw is.  :-[  But at least I got the plunge cuts to match up this time.

Sawmills and Milling / Re: Montana Burning
« Last post by Mt406 on Today at 01:42:51 am »
The  forecast  for  Tuesday  dry lightning  50% chance.
I am  building  a 300 gal slip  tank for my pickup  it should  be  done  end of week.
There's not enough  fire  equipment  to put  out a camp  fire  around  here.
Local  fire department  is 30 min  away. so kinda  on my own .
General Board / Re: Pickup frame rust
« Last post by Kbeitz on Today at 01:23:11 am »
needle scaler... and they work great...
Sawmills and Milling / Re: circular saw hammering
« Last post by Mt Horse Logger on Today at 01:05:16 am »
Hello Buzz, this is Montana a Horse Logger. I have been putting together a circle mill for the last few years. I have aquire alot of info on setting up the mill. She doesn't seem to want to cut just right yet. It likes to cut green wood, pine or fir, better than dry wood. Although it consistently has problems of heating the eye of the saw. The only time it will cut is if the saw it is freshly sharpened or perfectly sharp. I am now to the point that I think it needs hammered and want to learn to hammer myself. I have herd so many horror stories of sending saws off to be hammered only to find that 99 % of the time the saw won't cut. Any suggestions of who could teach me how to hammer a saw. I can see you seem to have a really balanced attitude, alot of experience and common sence.

Thanks for any info
General Board / Re: Eclipse mania
« Last post by Brucer on Today at 12:32:51 am »
Unfortunately, a lot of people decided it was safe to take off their viewing glasses during totality when only the corona was visible. Big mistake.

Most of the visible light from the sun comes from the surface. If we look directly at it the light overloads our vision systems and it feels very uncomfortable. So we don't look.

There is much less visible light in the corona so with the surface of the sun blocked by the moon, it doesn't make us feel uncomfortable looking at the corona. However, the corona is where most of the sun's UV comes from.

Since the retina has no pain sensors, looking directly at the corona for more than 1/4 second or so won't feel uncomfortable but it will do a lot of permanent damage.

Symptoms to watch for:
 - washed out colour. Things that usually look like they are brightly coloured will look much paler than you expect.
 - trouble focusing on things. Looking directly at the corona burns small spots on the retina so things don't look entirely clear no matter how much your eyes try to focus on them.

The good news -- small amounts of damage can heal over time. The bad news -- some of the damage will be permanent. Exposing the eye to intense UV will also lead to cataracts later in life.

General Board / Re: Pickup frame rust
« Last post by Texas Ranger on Today at 12:10:46 am »
I think you are looking for a pneumatic chipping iron.
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