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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Sawing on shares problem has arisen
« Last post by Magicman on Today at 08:11:56 am »
My sawing situation is different because I do not buy logs nor sell lumber, but I am occasionally asked if I saw on shares.  My answer is always the same; No, I saw by the bf or hourly rate.  I may gently remind them that I do not sell lumber so shares would put me in the lumber business which I am not.
General Woodworking / Re: Ripping speed vs. number of teeth
« Last post by Ianab on Today at 08:09:13 am »
I think the theory is that as every tooth on the blade has to slice through all the wood fibres on each pass. So even when you slow the feed, each tooth is still cutting the same amount, just a smaller "bite" and finer sawdust. The load on the engine doesn't decrease with proportional to the feed speed.

My experience is with small Swing Blade sawmills, where you have a saw with a 6-8" depth of cut, and only limited HP. To make the most of that they run blades with only 3 to 8 cutters, depending on the HP available. You do loose some smoothness of the cut, but if you are dealing with rough sawn wood, it's within spec. You don''t expect the same finish off a mill or edger as you do on a table saw with a "finish" blade.

So I can walk my mill though a 2" deep cut, at walking speed, with 4 cutters and 13 hp. The mill is throwing out chips, not sawdust when it's running like that. A one inch cut is really fast, and pretty much throws out "noodles" of wood.

The gullet space does come into play as well, but if you are only talking 1 or 2" cuts, this isn't such an issue, compared to a  BIG blade that  might be chewing through 18"+ of wood.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Towing vehicle for LT40HD
« Last post by Ga Mtn Man on Today at 08:04:05 am »
I pull an LT40 all over the north GA mountains with a 2006 Nissan Frontier 4x4, 4L V6 manual, towing capacity 6300 lbs.  It does fine but a shift into 3rd and sometimes 2nd gear is often required.  Keeping the trailer brakes in good working order is a must.
Chainsaws / Re: ID help for a old Mcculloch chainsaw
« Last post by Fishnuts2 on Today at 08:02:38 am »
It's a 1-10 if it has a manual oiler.  2-10's had a black plastic dipped handlebar and a black filter cover, with automatic oiling.  Late 60's vintage.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Towing vehicle for LT40HD
« Last post by Magicman on Today at 07:57:56 am »
You are good but be sure that the sawmill brakes work. 
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Sawing For Schools
« Last post by WV Sawmiller on Today at 07:56:30 am »

   All that is correct. You can also use the opportunity to teach some basic math including bf, volume in a cylinder and cube, environmental science, etc. One real good thing about sawing at schools is it is an opportunity to teach the kids a little bit of application of the theory the teachers have been teaching. Helps make the kids understand there is a reason to know some of what they are learning. Plus it is fun and gets them out of the stuffy classroom for an hour or so.

   Heck if nothing else get a couple of the kids to off-bear for you and and teach them that is minimum wage work they can expect to do the rest of their life if they don't get and apply some kind of education or training. :D
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Sawing on shares problem has arisen
« Last post by WDH on Today at 07:53:18 am »
In those kinds of deals, many times, someone's ox gets gored  :)
Tree, Plant and Wood I.D. / Re: Tree i.d.
« Last post by WDH on Today at 07:50:23 am »
Bark pic will help.  Also, a close-up pic of the twig and bud with emerging leaves.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Blackheart cherry
« Last post by WDH on Today at 07:48:34 am »
Your blackheart cherry is not native.  It was introduced to America in the 1600's or 1700's because of the sweet fruit. 
General Woodworking / Lathe time
« Last post by Ianab on Today at 07:42:29 am »
Had a big slab of live edge Port Orford Cedar in the shed, but had made a fatal mistake of putting in the shed before it was dry, and the bark was still on. Some of the local borer thought that was a good idea, and decimated the sapwood before it dried out properly. Could see a few holes when i pulled it out, but when I cut into it, the sapwood was just sawdust. No live bugs, but not much wood either.  :(

So I ripped off the sapwood and made some nice big turning blanks, ~12" dia and 3" thick, and some smaller 3x3  stuff.

Love it when you get the chisel cutting just right.

Only down side is that Lil has a bad reaction to this particular wood, so i have to have a shower and wash all the "man glitter" out of my hair before she will come near me.  :D

Head out tomorrow and off this platter. 
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Towing vehicle for LT40HD
« Last post by Rickcnc on Today at 07:38:01 am »
I know you said 4,800# limit.  But what engine do you have?  I had a Ranger that had a 4L v6.  I used it to pull my boat that was supposed to be 1,200# + the trailer and gear - so probably 2-2,400#.  No (working) brakes on the trailer.  That engine had a lot of torque (so it felt) and I could really move with that boat on the flats.  Had it in the hills one time and it was a job.

Ranger is a 2006 Sport 4X4 automatic, 4L V6 engine...  Most of my milling projects have been within a 10-60 minute drive, and yes there can be some hills to deal with.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Towing vehicle for LT40HD
« Last post by red on Today at 07:35:39 am »
Are you just moving the sawmill locally or are you driving hours away at highway speed ?  Flat land or mountains ?  You maybe able to pull the sawmill,  but going down a big hill I worry about steering and brakes.
Tree, Plant and Wood I.D. / Re: Tree i.d.
« Last post by TKehl on Today at 07:34:40 am »
Reminds me of Hickory the way the leaves are coming out.  Really just a guess there.

Have a picture of the trunk bark?
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Blackheart cherry
« Last post by WV Sawmiller on Today at 07:25:19 am »

   I never heard the term till I got here. I am sure is a local/common name. Over my mailbox across the road on my neighbor's property we also have redheart cherries. They remain red when ripe while the blackhearts are dark and almost black. I always suspected they were bing. The birds and squirrels scatter the seeds and they germinate and are growing all over the country here. About every 4-5 years we have a good crop. They are among the first local trees to bloom and a late freeze usually gets most and sometimes all of them. This year's mild winter promises to yield a bumper crop.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Scale on mill??
« Last post by tacks Y on Today at 07:24:09 am »
Thanks guys. Looked at the Cooks, the numbers run down. Mine ran up which seems easier to me. Have to do more looking and thinking.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Towing vehicle for LT40HD
« Last post by Ianab on Today at 07:24:07 am »
That's where the trailer brakes and vehicle weight become important.

My little Toymotor has the same engine as a Highlander SUV with a 5,000 pound tow capacity. I'm sure I could get a LT40 up to highway speed easy enough. Stopping it heading downhill into a corner is a whole different problem.  :o
Sawmills and Milling / Re: New cards
« Last post by WV Sawmiller on Today at 07:13:44 am »
   Nice cards. I buy mine 1,000 at a time from Staples. I think last batch were about $27. On the back of mine I include a 1/4 International log rule as I normally bill by the bf for sawing and people always ask me how many bf are in a log. This way they can estimate their own costs.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Purlin Question
« Last post by sandsawmill14 on Today at 07:00:35 am »
we always use full 1x6 every 24" and the truss or rafters are 24" i have went 30" on centers but probably will not again  :) you never now with the big snows we get every few years some times we will get 4-5 inches :o :D :D :D
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Purlin Question
« Last post by wng-2 on Today at 06:51:45 am »
Thanks, good info. Not sure what brand metal yet. Will have to check with my builder, still in the planning stages. Just trying to look ahead so I can mill the appropriate size materiel.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Purlin Question
« Last post by newoodguy78 on Today at 06:44:23 am »
It might be worth seeing what the metal manufacturer recommends. Different metal requires different spacing. Screw down corrugated they usually recommend no more than two foot on center. Standing seam they usually recommend one foot on center.
With a roof that steep I would cut the purlins at least an in and a half. Makes walking on them while installing incredibly easier.

As for the metal condensating and dripping install a vapor barrier directly under the metal and you won't have that problem. I use a roofing underlayment. If you use a 4' roll and 4 inch purlins space them at 22" on center. That way you'll be able to get it good and tight. Especially if it will be seen from below.

What brand of metal are you going with?
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