Planning on picking up one of these.
Which one are you guys using?
Which would you buy today if you were doing it again?
Thanks for the help.
Les
Purchased my Makita 16" about 30?? years ago. A good saw, slightly underpowered but considering the size and running on 110 volts, still pretty good. Ergonomically the design is OK, not outstanding. I have made many many good cuts with this machine and can recommend it as long as you plan to be careful, cut slow.
This year I purchased the Milwaukee 10" saw and love it!!!! Easy to handle, very accurate, powerful. Easy for ripping as well as cross cuts. Unless I have a 4"+ beam to cut, I use the Milwaukee a lot more than the Makita.
These 2 saws are designed for different purposes so you need to determine what your needs are.
Haven't used a Big Boy...I have the Makita 16".
Pros: will cut 7"
Cons: safety button in a weird place, blade guard is a huge pain especially when cutting an angle, and I can't seem to cut square consistently (yes I check the saw for square every time I use it).
I have found that I prefer my Makita 10 1/4" and just make an extra cut.
I have a big boy 14 inch and it is also underpowered. I works best when the cut is initially made with a 10-1/4 and then brought to full depth with the larger saw. I bought the big boy used because I figured if it ever burnt up I could swap the parts over to another skillsaw mag77 and be back in business. I have a skilsaw sawsquatch 10-1/4 and I really like it and it is my go to on anything I don't use a cordless m18 7-1/4 saw on.
I think one of the biggest concerns with the 16" Makita is safety. Sure it will cut a big beam or post in one cut, if... and that's the big question: if you can hold it up safely (weighs a ton), if you can keep it from going gyro on you (tons of torque that twists it everywhich way) and if you can keep fingers, toes, legs and such out of the way through the cut and after. I find myself actually dreading using it. I have a 10" also which is much more functional and much safer as well, not to mention cheaper.
As they (used to) say: you pays your money and takes your chances...
LJ
All good info, thank you!
I've read several comments about starting the deep cuts with the 10 1/4 and finishing with a BIG saw or a handsaw.
I'm curious which is the more prevalent technique...finish with big saw, or, finish with hand saw.
I've only made a handful of cuts with the big Makita during a timber course.
It was indeed huge and awkward, but felt like I could get the hang of it pretty quickly.
My technique (through trial and extensive error) is I cut two sides with the 10 1/4 and if necessary, I finish with a handsaw. I have one of the old Makita 16" and I just cannot get the darn thing to cut square (maybe too much room for deflection). The only time I use the big saw is cut the top of the posts when a tenon will follow. My 10 1/4 is flawless. Thats just my way. I have used the new Makita 16" and that one seems to cut well, but even it has a shoe that is kind of Fisher Price
Have you looked at the new skillsaw carpentry worm drive saw with a chainsaw bar on it?
I'm looking at getting this;
SKILSAW SPT70V-11 SUPER SAWSQUATCH 16-5/16" Worm Drive Circular Saw
$584 doesn't seem too bad. Anyone have one?
Last week the timber crew brought their skil super sawsquach. I think they like it. Two good things, it's worm drive, and it has a more rigid base than the stock stamped steel makita base/foot. I have a gold(older) makita. I also have the aluminum replacement base that was being made and sold through the timberframers guild. It's no longer through the guild. When I contacted the maker of the base back in 2016, he was waiting until he got 10 or so orders before making a batch. I can PM you with his contact info if you want, just let me know if you need it.
Also, I would not call the Makita under powered. It is a very large diameter blade. You have to cut at a rate that will keep the RPMs up. If you try to cut too fast, you can stall it. To me that is actually a good thing as it's easier to control. If you had a more powerful motor, if it jammed - your blade got stuck in a kerf, if you got kickback, it would be harder to handle I think. I like the power level on the Makita right where it is.
I have an older Makita and it cuts a max of 6-5/16", not 7". I needed to make some 6" cuts so I bought this one, well used. Considering it is cutting a 6" kerf, I think it cuts pretty fast. Sure, its slow going across the beam but it is removing a LOT of wood. I clamp a guide board/fence so I get a very accurate edge. I stop moving forward when the hub reaches the far side of the beam (center of blade at edge), release the switch and wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the saw from the cut.
Here is a pic of the stock Makita stamped metal base, and the machined Aluminum base Lon Tyler was making for it. He supplied attachment brackets to fit both the older gold version and the newer blue version.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/makita_steel.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1552833320)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/IMG_0574.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1552833333)
Hey Brad. PM me his info when you can. I'm interested. Thanks
Actually got a super sawsquatch last week. Used it for a few cuts. Cuts mostly square but I need to fine tune it. Plenty of power for full depth cuts. I will have to get used to handling such a big saw but am hoping it will save me some time. I've already seen an improvement in my abilities using it after the first few cuts. Time will tell if it gets used enough to justify the investment. My other saw is an 8 1/4 Makita, which I love. I'm sure the Skil will come in handy on my 8x8s and 8x10s, especially if I can get the hang of drop cuts with it.