How thick is everyone cutting their boards? Are you using a log scale that leaves a board exactly 1 inch after the cut or are you using a log scale that leaves the board 1 1/8 of an inch? This would all be for hardwood cutting only. What would the reason be for using one or the other log scale? I have purchased both to add onto my sawmill and I currently have an actual 36 inch log scale and one 4/4 to 8/4 that removes the kerf cut.
It depends on what the customer/ I am going to use it. Some like 1 1/8" for wood that will be kiln dried and planned because not as much material needs to be removed. For furniture others myself included prefer 1 1/4" since it gives more material to work with if it warps or twists while drying. But I will cut true 1 inch for lumber that is going to used as ruff cut for siding boards/ pallet lumber.
My band mill uses a pointer and aluminum yardstick. Unless a customer asks for exact dimensions they get the dimension less kerf. No one has ever complained, makes it easier to figure. Circular mill I cut to full dimension. Frank C.
When doing INCH lumber, I always ask the customer if they want the full inch, in which case I use the 4/4 scale, and if they want dimension less kerf, I use the inch scales on the yard stick, same as Frank!
IDK how it is up there in Canuckistan, but, down here in the estados unidos, hardwood inch boards are sawn plus 1/16"-1/8" over. Two inch boards are sawn 3/16"-1/4" over. I'm not sure of all the exact reasons, but some are to leave more room for planing, and to allow for board shrinkage when drying. In softwood I usually saw full dimension. I have computerized setworks that measure in 1/32" increments so it's pretty simple for me to do.
Hardwood, I use the 4/4 scale
Softwood, depends on the customer, some will want to have boards for furnisher , these will be sawn with the quarter scale depending the thickness heis looking for. as for the demensional lumber it is cut on the inch scale with curf split on the inch. The 1 inch board would be 15/16 or close to.
Standard 4/4 - 1 1/8" hardwood scale for hardwood. Its standard with all the mills around here, and that's what every expects.
Are you cutting than storing the lumber to sell?
I only saw for me,so that customer wants all one inch boards. :D
But if I was sawing a customer logs,whatever they want to pay me for. ;D
Show me the money!!!
I saw whatever the customer wants, but generally if it is hardwood going to the kiln/T&G etc., it will be 1 1/8. The greatest majority of what I saw is 1".
Thanks for the responses everyone. The wood I'm cutting are logs I've purchased to sell the lumber from. I've cut almost everything on the 4/4 scale with a little on the 1" scale for some interior trim in my cottage. When I purchased the scales 8 years ago from woodmizer (Ontario) they didn't have the 4/4+1/8 scale as they Said it wasn't used much from what I remember. I recently ordered some new ones, as mine are getting tired, and kinda the same thing happened again. They did have them in stock this time. So I'll have the yard stick, 4/4 to 8/4 and the hardwood scale that adds the 1/8" inch. I think I'll cut 1 1/8" for next while until I start selling and see what people want.
I exclusively use my setworks on my mill to determine thickness and cut my 4/4 at a 1-1/8" setting yielding a true 1" board. For framing I set to 2-1/8" to get a true 2" board. I'll cut thicker or thinner if the customer wants.
No customers for me, just me and mine. I cut a 1" thick board without figuring for kerf and end up with a perfect 7/8" thick board. I just crank my handle 4 times for an inch and 8 times for 2". Makes it easy for my stupid brain to comprehend. I did a little at first figuring in for kerf but I hated losing 2 boards out of a log just because the tape measured something a little more and proper. Plus all the different numbers makes my head hurt. :laugh:
For the most part, I only do custom sawing. So, it depends on what the customer is doing with the lumber. For barn framing, I cut to the inch specified by the customer. If I am sawing side boards for dump trucks, or heavy equipment trailer decking, I saw as close to the exact dimension that the customer gives me.
For wood workers, I offer them: cut on the inch less kerf (7/8" yield), cut on the inch plus kerf (1" yield) or 4/4 (1-1/8" on my set works). Most wood workers choose the 4/4 option so that they have the flexibility of finishing at 1" or 3/4".
When I saw for my own consumption (building wagon flats), I have programs on my set works for 5"x9" beams and 1.5" lumber off the sides. For my purposes, I prefer to err on the side of a little plump as opposed to a little scant.
IF you are going to be buying and sawing your own logs, to sell the lumber, in advance of a firm order, you might want to poll some potential customers to see what their true specifications are ?
JMO...