I have a 17' x 22-30" white oak log in the yard that I would like to mill up. I have a manual mp32 mill. I would like to quartersaw the log for furniture making and other wood working projects. I have quartersawn some white oak a few months ago but the logs were 10' or so. my question is should I cut the log in half to get the Ray fleck to stay in the whole board? I have a feeling that with 8" or so of taper that if I mill the log at 17' only part of each board will have the fleck. would it be easier to stay in the fleck better with 8' logs? the log has no knots and is very straight with tight growth rings. just don't want to buck it down unless I need to to get all the fleck I can. thanks.
If you have not seen the thread on reverse roll quarter sawing it would be worth your time to review it.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,93851.0.html
yes I've read it very informative. some one even did it with a mp32. I plan on using that method.
Are you planning to use full length 17's oak for a specific project? It would be a lot easier to saw 8 footers unless you really need 17' lumber.
Most trees twist as they grow, so the longer the log the more twist you have. You can start a cut at 90 degrees to the rings but by the time you reach the end of the cut you're out of the fleck. Cut them in the shortest length appropriate for your project, within reason.
The shorter the log, the less variables, and the easier to stay in the fleck. I prefer 8 footers, although I have done longer.
Quote from: Florida boy on March 17, 2017, 12:58:23 PM
yes I've read it very informative. some one even did it with a mp32. I plan on using that method.
I am interested in your experience using the MP32 to RRQS. We have the same mill.
Bob
I would encourage you to cut the log into two logs, primarily due to yield loss.
Lumber yield from a log is typically determined by the small end diameter of the log. If you cut the 17 footer into a pair of 8'6" logs, odds are that one log will have a larger small end diameter and yield more material.
From your comments about only having ray fleck visible in part of the board it sounds as if you are not centering the pith on the the log before making your opening cuts. When quartersawing, if you don't center pith on both planes you will produce boards with fleck only on one end of the board.
To center the pith, simply raise your toe boards or wedge the small end of the log away from the deck until you have the same distance from the pith to your blade on each end of the log.
once i get to quartersawing them I will for sure take lots of pics. on my mill I have the screw type clamps instead if the cam type. I will see how RRQS works with my style and report back.
looks like most are in agreement. its probably best to buck the log in half.
yes I just about always level the pith on the mill with any type of sawing. but if u have a wondering or crooked pith you do the best you can. the first and only log I have quartersawn was pretty knarly. it was right before tthr tree forked and had a single pith on one end and a double pith in the other. the boards where I did get Ray fleck had them throughout the board. also it had some curly aspects in parts of the boards. just planed them up the other night. I'll post a few pics if I can.