Learning as I go. I worked at Grizzly Tools in Muncy Pa. and I did some welding for them for my two bandsaw blade wheels. I pretty much had all the steel I needed execpt for a small chunk of 30mm round rod I needed for the bandsaw wheels. I'm not sure what engine I'm useing yet. I got my eye on one thats listed at an auction tommorow. My carrage is going to be motor driven. I got room for a 30" log 18 feet long on the mill. I have my own machine and weld shop. I also have a woodwork shop and thats why I want a mill. Right now I'm tired of welding... I think I'll take a few days off.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/2.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/3~0.JPG)
Thanks for posting and I am hoping for more pictures as you go.
Good luck
gww
Working on it every day...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02368.jpg)
[img]
Adjustment...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Band_wheel_box.jpg)
What sawmill? I'm too busy looking at the wall with the wheels on it and as my wife would say,all the other junk. :D Looks like my place. ;D
That's a lot of progress for someone who was going to "take a few days off". Too bad you had to ruin it with all that new steel :laugh:.
It appears that your sawhead is suspended by the winch cable through the pulleys at the top of the masts. I think you may have trouble keeping the sawhead perfectly parallel to the bunks as you crank it up/down. But then again, I've never built a bandmill so what do I know. :)
All the steel was used... I just cleaned it up....
I got real lucky today at an auction.
I got the 13 hp Honda engine that I wanted for the mill for $150.00
Then bid on what looked like a real of bandsaw blade band...
I was going to try to make my own blades but cutting the lenght I need and silversolder it together.
I won that bid for $15.00.
After I got it home and opened it up I found it was already made in to 153" blades.There was 7 of them and they fit my saw. Now whats the chances of that...
On Wednesday when I checked everything out the bandsaw blades had no rust.
So they are a whole lot better than they look.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Honda_engine.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/153_inch_bandsaw_blades.JPG)
Posting pictures here sure is tough...
For the best of me I could not get it to show two pictures..
And then 2 min later it shows up... Hummm...
With all the weight on the cables I dont think it's going to move.
I bet there is around 200 lbs at least on the masts.
Were the band wheels from a Grizzly saw? If so what model? Are you using 1 1/4 width blades? Looking good on the build.
Kbeitz, Keep up the great work. Looks like you're having a lot of fun. It gives a person a feeling of satisfaction to build something rather than buying it ready made. I'm just finishing up my band mill that I've built mostly out of repurposed steel.
Seeing as you have built a lot of things, you know what I'm talking about. Good luck on all your foraging.
Arnold113
Quote from: ozarkgem on April 18, 2015, 08:16:53 PM
Were the band wheels from a Grizzly saw? If so what model? Are you using 1 1/4 width blades? Looking good on the build.
Yep off the model #G0701 5 hp Industral bandsaw. Im useing both 1-1/2 and the 1-1/4" blades.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Model__G0701~0.jpg)
Looks good!
All those bands need is a few squirts of wd40 or ATF and they are good to go. Good luck and keep us posted
Much better than I could ever do. I'm curious about your log loading plans. If you use ramps, it looks like those fenders would get in the way.
Quote from: Ocklawahaboy on April 19, 2015, 01:02:13 AM
Much better than I could ever do. I'm curious about your log loading plans. If you use ramps, it looks like those fenders would get in the way.
I'm hoping to make my ramp curved.
Or I see some builders make there fenders removable.
They kinda slide on place using square tubbing.
I also thought about making a log lifter...
All this will take another dream night to process.
Here is a picture of my Tension adjuster.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Tension_adjuster.JPG)
I should have asked in the previous post. What is the diameter and width of the wheels?
Any idea what the cost is from Grizzly on the wheels?
Thanks
Jim
Quote from: ozarkgem on April 19, 2015, 07:37:39 AM
I should have asked in the previous post. What is the diameter and width of the wheels?
Any idea what the cost is from Grizzly on the wheels?
Thanks
Jim
17 inch across OD.
2" width on the rim and 6" at the bearing housing.
I was told around $600.00 each. (ouch)...
I made a bandsaw blade clamp and repaired my first blade today.
I'm happy with the way it turned out...
I need to take a better picture of the weld job.
This picture makes it look bad...
Repaired with silversolder.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Repair_jig_1~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Repair_jig_2~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Repair_jig_3~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Repair_jig_4~1.JPG)
Made the engine plate today and I got it welded to the carrage and the engine bolted fast... Break time....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Milling_engine_plate_1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Milling_engine_plate_2.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Milling_engine_plate_3.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Engines_mounted_1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Engines_mounted_2.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Engines_mounted_3.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Engines_mounted_4.JPG)
Well yes you did, and in fine style!! :o :)
I got my Cooks bandsaw blade roller guides in today...
I would have tried to make these but the time is would take I thought I would just buy them. Also they are hardened. I have a heat treating oven but I would probably use enough electric hardening the rollers in dollars as the boughten one cost me.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cooks_track_rollers.JPG)
Nice!
Thanks for sharing.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 20, 2015, 11:31:35 AM
I got my Cooks bandsaw blade roller guides in today...
I would have tried to make these but the time is would take I thought I would just buy them. Also they are hardened. I have a heat treating oven but I would probably use enough electric hardening the rollers in dollars as the boughten one cost me.
That is similar to the way some of us with mills still buy 2x4s.
My toe adjustment....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Toe_adjustment~0.JPG)
"K" copy the bearing numbers down and have some spares. After long use those guides will wear and need to be trued up, easiest is to have a tool post grinder on your metal lathe if not anneal and turn. I made a heavy duty tool post grinder for my lathe used a heavy grinder with a 6" wheel made a bracket to hold it on the tool post, just what the Dr. ordered for hardened pieces. Frank C.
Today I made my outriggers...
Again everything came from the junkyard.
I found these pipe nipples and I think they was for hydraulics.
1/2" thick side wall. My legs are 1-1/2" cold roll round.
I still need to come up with 6 feet or shoes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02449.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02450.JPG)
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Ya-Hoo... My blade is on....
One step closer to my first cut....
Lets see....
I need blade guards...
Blade guide...
Water bottle...
Log dogs...
And then I think I'm ready to go...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02458.JPG)
I see lots of people saying the the blades teeth is not to touch the wheel.
In my picture it looks lke the wheel is touching my teeth.
The crown is so high that the teeth dont look like it's touching.
Do you think this will be a problem ?
If your bandwheels have a high crown the set on the band teeth may not be affected. Since you already have the band it will be worth a try. The trailer tire type mills, like the one I built, are more prone to push the set out due to flex of the tire. If you have everything lined up correctly and your bandwheel guides in the correct position, when you begin milling you will soon find out if the set is affected. The blade will start to dive in the cut. The reason that occurs is because the teeth set toward the bandwheels will be on the top side of the band when it enters the log, as those teeth are pushed inward by the bandwheel the lower teeth are cutting more, therefore the dive.
If that happens, you should be able to fix the problem by using a wider band, having the bandwheels turned so the crown is moved toward the leading edge, or by simply adding a rubber or urethane bandwheel "tire." Grizzly may have the tires for those wheels.
Here is link to a sorely missed forestryforum legend Tom's (RIP) website with best explanation about bandsaw blades. (http://www.tomssaw.com/cgi-bin/tutorials/viewnews.cgi?newsid1120996529,41780,)
Keep up the good work!
Quote from: fishpharmer on April 22, 2015, 12:02:21 PM
If your bandwheels have a high crown the set on the band teeth may not be affected. Since you already have the band it will be worth a try. The trailer tire type mills, like the one I built, are more prone to push the set out due to flex of the tire. If you have everything lined up correctly and your bandwheel guides in the correct position, when you begin milling you will soon find out if the set is affected. The blade will start to dive in the cut. The reason that occurs is because the teeth set toward the bandwheels will be on the top side of the band when it enters the log, as those teeth are pushed inward by the bandwheel the lower teeth are cutting more, therefore the dive.
If that happens, you should be able to fix the problem by using a wider band, having the bandwheels turned so the crown is moved toward the leading edge, or by simply adding a rubber or urethane bandwheel "tire." Grizzly may have the tires for those wheels.
Here is link to a sorely missed forestryforum legend Tom's (RIP) website with best explanation about bandsaw blades. (http://www.tomssaw.com/cgi-bin/tutorials/viewnews.cgi?newsid1120996529,41780,)
Keep up the good work!
The wheels already have the tires on them.
The saw they came off of only tale 1-1/4" blades. I'm useing 1-1/2"
Not a lot done today..
To busy shopping at the junkyard...
I got my feet or shoes cut out and I started on the guides arms for the blade rollers.
I got these two racks (part of rack and pinion) to use for my log dog for adjustment.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02473~0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02472.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02470.JPG)
There you go, the tires weren't apparent in other pics. You could still go to a wider band if necessary, yet it looks as if the tooth set is unaffected.
Blade guide....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02476.JPG)
Your blade guide looks great. Adjustability of the blade guides is very important. Have you had a chance to adjust your blade guides by using a straight edge across the gullet of the bandblade and parallel to the log bed ?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,64915.msg969163.html#msg969163
Quote from: fishpharmer on April 23, 2015, 09:46:54 AM
Your blade guide looks great. Adjustability of the blade guides is very important. Have you had a chance to adjust your blade guides by using a straight edge across the gullet of the bandblade and parallel to the log bed ?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,64915.msg969163.html#msg969163
From what I have been reading thats not important. Some even say to have the beginning cut of the blade lead into the cut... ??? So what am I missing ??? Help me out...
Or are you saying lay a straight edge across the blade like I have the black line drawed on the image and run a tape down to the bed to check for parallel ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02475A.jpg)
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 23, 2015, 08:19:25 PM
From what I have been reading thats not important. Some even say to have the beginning cut of the blade lead into the cut... ??? So what am I missing ??? Help me out...
You didn't read that on this forum. It is very important that your blade be parallel to the saw bed.
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on April 23, 2015, 08:36:17 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 23, 2015, 08:19:25 PM
From what I have been reading thats not important. Some even say to have the beginning cut of the blade lead into the cut... ??? So what am I missing ??? Help me out...
You didn't read that on this forum. It is very important that your blade be parallel to the saw bed.
maybe I missunderstood what i was reading...
But if the bandsaw wheels is squared off the bed would not that make the blade square with the bed.
I have not checked the blade to the bed. I was thinking it would have to be square if the wheels was...
I will do that first thing in the morn..
k
I would say your other thought is easy to come by, that squaring the head was an important item. I have seen post where no blade guide is used. I have seen the blade guides that are just close but do not touch the blade. I could see where it becomes more important that when using a blade guide that pushes down on the blade that even if the other was correct the blade guide could change it. I know you have seen my build and the problims I have cause you posted on it. You therefore know I am no expert but just someone who is working through our issues.
Your blade guides and their supports look much more solid then mine and I think that will be helpfull.
Good luck
gww
I have no idea how much sawing that you will do, but blade guides wear. The end toward the blade teeth gets the most wear. As they wear, they must be adjusted as in tilted downward to keep the blade horizontal with the sawmill bed. Normal setup also adjusts that end horizontally so that the back flange will pull the blade upward and toward the blade guide if/when the blade is forced back against that flange.
Quote from: Magicman on April 23, 2015, 09:49:02 PM
I have no idea how much sawing that you will do, but blade guides wear. The end toward the blade teeth gets the most wear. As they wear, they must be adjusted as in tilted downward to keep the blade horizontal with the sawmill bed. Normal setup also adjusts that end horizontally so that the back flange will pull the blade upward and toward the blade guide if/when the blade is forced back against that flange.
Hummm... I have made no adjustment for tilt.... Only up-down and in and out...
I guess I could egg shape my bearing support bolt hole in the back and put two set screws adjust tilt...
Any other ideas ?
Thanks.
Kevin
I'm thinking about building an edger attachment that will use the tracks of my saw mill.
Something I can pickup and set in the tracks when I'm not useing the bandsaw.
Has anyone done anything like this ? It would be something that looks a track saw...
I cranked it up today to see how the blade would track.
People would be nuts to run a mill with out a guard.
I see videos on utube of people running them with out guards...
No way.... not me...
Everything worked great...
Good news! Glad it worked good for ya! It looks like you know what you're doing and have built a nice mill.
Today I'm hoping to make up my log dogs or whatever you call the clamps that hold the log.
I'm using 1-1/4 solid square rack (rack and pinion) to advance the hold down clamp.
I'm sliding a chunk of heavy wall tubing over the rack with a chunk of plate welded over a small part of the tubing that will fall into the tooth of the rack for adjustment. This way I can just lift the handle up and slide it down the rack until it touches the log and twist the cam lock tight. Pictures later. Or I just might make my blade covers today.. One or the other.
Great looking build.
Got my blade cover built today.
Hey.... Did i build my saw mill backwards ?
Every blade I buy or see has the teeth running faceing the points to the right.
I have to turn the blade inside out to work on my mill.
Faceing my mill with my carrage to my right or at the back end of my trailer I'm going to be cutting when the carrage moves left. So If I stand faceing the blade I need the cutting part of my blades teeth to face left.
Am I backwards ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02481.JPG)
]
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02482.JPG)
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Is your drive wheel pulling your blade through the log or pushing. If it is pulling I have seen advice to others to flip the blade to get it cutting correctly. I don't see how that would be bad. I haven't got mine working correctly so keep that in mind on any advice I give.
Good job
gww
Yes, the way you have your engine mounted, if you're facing the front of the mill and front of the saw, the teeth should be pointing to the left. And it looks like you can run it from the other side with the up/down winch so you're out of the sawdust. Looks nice and solid. The wood blade guard makes sense so the blade doesn't get messed up by hitting steel if it comes off the wheels - Well done!
gww - The double tube for the main frame of this saw is a good thing to try to get on your build if you can. It's what will get rid of most if not all your flexing issues. The front tube is in compression and the back tube is in tension so it cancels out and stays straight when you tension the blade, see?
Here's a good video showing blade guide roller alignment on a woodmizer. About 3:00 minutes in is most relevant. The 1/16" offset of in/out adjustable roller side of blade is for woodmizer cantilever head design only.
http://youtu.be/QDcmW2IgFXg
Ox
I saw your post but am tired of typing uselessly, not your fault but my computers. I did want to get in that k's mill looks nice.
gww
My Thomas must run like yours. I turn WM blades inside out to run them on my mill. ;D
Not to much done today... To much to do....
I went and looked at another band mill today...
Yep.... Made mine backwards....
So I guess 90% of the mills run the other way ?
Could someone with a wood mizer mill show me a picture of the cam on top of the bar in the first picture.
It fits in the hole of the second picture...
Thanks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc03585.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc03586.jpg)
Today I was working on the dogs... The cam arms are not done yet.
They will adjust with the rack bar... I made 3 set and welded them in today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02485.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02486.JPG)
This is a picture of the log dog I was lookin for..
I gotta make 3 of these...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wood_mizer_log_dog_2.jpg)
I love it when pictures are posted. Worth a thousand words.
Thanks
gww
Linn mills run the same direction as yours. When I built my Linn I thought about reversing the plans so it ran the same way as a woodmizer, then I thought "why?".
Today I made heaver carriage cable rollers and I painted the wood
and I went yard selling... I found two jacks at the yard sale for $10.00 so I welded
them on the back of the mill. It was a good day....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02524.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02523.jpg)
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Kbeitz, nice build. Having your own Bridgeport mill makes it a piece of cake! ;D
Cutting direction can go either way, but the driven wheel needs to pull the band through the cut. Otherwise you'll get oscillation in the cut. Kind of like pushing a rope. The WM's cut towards the operators side of the mill, pulling the log into the log stops. Sadly, this means the sawdust is coming right at you.
With a 13HP motor, there should be no problem cutting towards the log dog side of the mill. That's how my old Turner mill worked. It was never an issue.
One observation. You're using threaded rod for tensioning the band. In time the thread will strip. Not a big deal, you can always replace it. Might keep your eyes open for some acme threaded stock for a more durable tensioner. When cutting wide hardwoods you'll want 2,700 lbs or more tension on the band.
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on May 02, 2015, 07:25:59 PM
Kbeitz, nice build. Having your own Bridgeport mill makes it a piece of cake! ;D
Cutting direction can go either way, but the driven wheel needs to pull the band through the cut. Otherwise you'll get oscillation in the cut. Kind of like pushing a rope. The WM's cut towards the operators side of the mill, pulling the log into the log stops. Sadly, this means the sawdust is coming right at you.
With a 13HP motor, there should be no problem cutting towards the log dog side of the mill. That's how my old Turner mill worked. It was never an issue.
One observation. You're using threaded rod for tensioning the band. In time the thread will strip. Not a big deal, you can always replace it. Might keep your eyes open for some acme threaded stock for a more durable tensioner. When cutting wide hardwoods you'll want 2,700 lbs or more tension on the band.
Thanks for the info... I got the drive wheel pulling..
My threaded rod also has a 1-1/2" wide nut.
I don't think I will ever strip it out using a wide nut like that.
If i have a problem with it i welded it on a collar that pulls on on of the
hold down bolts. So it would be real easy to change it out for something stronger.
You said something about using acme threaded stock, Acme treads does not tighten near as easy as a fine thread. It would take a whole lot more toque to get a course thread tight.
Yea.... Love my Bridgeport an my metal lathe... I would be lost without them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wide_nut.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/1642_Lathe.jpg)
Well today the junkyard got in what I was lookin for...
The two motors I needed . One to lift the carrage and one to move it...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Carrage_motor.JPG)
Cool! I wish my area had better junkyards.
The two motors are 24 volts. I'm using 12 volts. On the end cap of the motors is an electric brakes.
This brakes will not activate on only 12 volts so I removed them. I don't think I want the unit slamming
to a stop anyway... After removing the brakes the motors run fine on only 12 volts.
I tried stopping the end shaft on the motor with plyers... No way... Then the motor goes into
the alum gearbox and that takes it down to 40 to 1 ... There is no way that I could stop that shaft by hand.
I next need to count the RPM and see what sprockets I need to get to run the speed I need.
I'm also ready to go E-bay shopping for my controller.
I got two of these ( DC 10-50V 60A Motor Speed Control PWM HHO RC Controller 12V 24V 48V 3000W ) coming from E-bay. Sure hope I bought the right thing...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DC_10-50V_60A_Motor_Speed_Control_PWM_HHO_RC_Controller_12V_24V_48V_3000W.jpg)
Guess I'm going with a 24 volt system. The is an easy one wire hookup .
24 Volt Universal Alternator 1-Wire 40 AMP
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/24_Volt_Universal_Alternator_1-Wire_40_AMP_Heavy_D.jpg)
Is it because the 24 volt motors aren't doing well on 12 volts?
Quote from: Ox on May 07, 2015, 10:31:14 AM
Is it because the 24 volt motors aren't doing well on 12 volts?
My test showed the motors to work great on 12 volts.
But the mill is not built yet so I cant see why not to make it a 24 volt system since the the motors are 24 volts...
Keep your eyes open for older military generators their were a lot that were 28v. DC, 24v. motors would be very happy with that. Frank C.
Wow things have been busy... Happens every spring. Not much done on the mill the last few days.
I got my first log sitting on the mill to help me decide on how I want to make my dogs.
I need to weld a handle on the cams to see if this is the way I want to go...
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I built a chicken plucker using a 90volt dc motor. If I had not used the dc motor I would have needed about a 10/1 motor speed reduction. I ran it on twelve volts and it did ok. I ran it on 24 volts and it was faster and did better. I don't know if it had alot more power but it was turning faster and I believe using the more efficiantly.
So while 24 is the design of the motors, running them at that will change the speed if you have any testing already done at 12 volts. I do know with your 40 to 1 gear ratio, if the motor didn't get too hot I would be tempted to run on the 12 volt just for the versatillity and due to battery maint. and extra weight. If your intention is to use the mill every single day as a job, the 24 volts may make more sence.
You are going all out on your mill build and it should really be something good when you get it done.
cheers
gww
I like the rugged and simple things you build. It's the epitome of the KISS principle.
Sounds like gww has some experience with motors. I wouldn't have thought to take into account the tests at 12 volts vs. running at 24 volts. I'm sure the speeds will change some. It would have pithed me off when I realized the mistake I would have made. This is why I'm always doing the 1 step forward and 2 steps back dance with myself. ::) :-\
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Log_gog_thumb_screw~0.JPG)
Personally I like it. Is the pipe that it slides up and down in, short enough to cause it to bind in place so it can't move up and down after you scew it to the log?
Thanks
gww
Quote from: gww on May 08, 2015, 09:46:17 PM
Personally I like it. Is the pipe that it slides up and down in, short enough to cause it to bind in place so it can't move up and down after you scew it to the log?
Thanks
gww
Short or long if there is pressure pushing back you would never be able to slide it inside each other.
The only thing I would change (and I probley will) is to change from round stock to square.
Now there is nothing to stop the rod from turning. Not sure if thats going to be a problem or not yet.
I might pull the shaft and mill a keyway in it...
Thanks for answering my question, I didn't find mine binding very well till I cut them short enough. If mine were yours, I could not make myself change them now that they look that good untill I tried them. They may move side to side and the blade does try to move the log but those are nice and the blade pressure may be side to side of the log and not pushing the log forwards and backwards. Nope, I would definatly have to try them cause they look pretty.
Cheers
gww
I'm going to replace the Winch for the carrage lift with a worm-gear Winch. As of now if you let go of the handle when cranking it unwinds if you don't lock the one way leaver. Reaching for a spinning handle is not what I want to to....
Worm gear winches will not spin back with a load on it... You need to turn the handle if you want it to move.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Worm_gear_winch~0.JPG)
I probably would not need to do that because one of my wheelchair motors will be driving the winch.
The wheel chair motor solves you problim. To your point of the locking mechanisim. I have lost my grip and got busted in the knucles while trying to get control. Wormgears are more expensive though then the cheep boat winch. I do relize that out mills are going to be at differrent levels of the milling spectrom. The boat winches work well for the manual bottom line mills.
gww
Quote from: gww on May 08, 2015, 11:01:33 PM
The wheel chair motor solves you problim. To your point of the locking mechanisim. I have lost my grip and got busted in the knucles while trying to get control. Wormgears are more expensive though then the cheep boat winch. I do relize that out mills are going to be at differrent levels of the milling spectrom. The boat winches work well for the manual bottom line mills.
gww
E-bay now has them for $40.00 ... Cant beat the price... Wish I knew that first hand.
Seems like a great deal for holding the carriage. I think I'm going to put one on my truck crane.
The only thing I don't like about them is it take forever to get the cable out.
On my truck crane I like to release the cable and run with it. Maybe I'll look around to see if they make
one that has worm drive and quick release.
My problim and not yours is I find it imossible to spend $40 when I already have something that will work, "good enough".
gww
Today I got my new winch on and got the motor sitting about where I want it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02680.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02681.jpg)
Very cool! I'm on the lookout for a deal on some of those gear motors.
Question: I'm in the process of building a mill and have been reading yours. How does your mill compare prior to the cook blade guides vs after? Much difference?
Thanks!
Quote from: Ox on May 10, 2015, 11:32:59 PM
Very cool! I'm on the lookout for a deal on some of those gear motors.
A lot of them come into the junkyard... When the battery's die and they see the cost of them they junk the chair.
I've seen them for years but I have just found a use for them so I'll be NOW watching for them.
You can buy controllers for them off E-bay for only $14.95 and free shipping.
I'm not sure if I'm aloud to post a link but if your interested shoot me a PM and I'll send you the link...
Quote from: Georgia088 on May 10, 2015, 11:50:34 PM
Question: I'm in the process of building a mill and have been reading yours. How does your mill compare prior to the cook blade guides vs after? Much difference?
Thanks!
My mill has not even cut it's first log yet... I don't want to get it dirty until it get painted. But I would think everything would be much better with them I know they are not a cheap item but from what I read they still don't last forever. So if they ware out they must be doing some heavy work load.
An old timer told me once "If it moves, even a little bit, it'll wear out eventually."
I would guess the Cooks guides have replaceable bearings like the Woodmizer guides do.
After all, they have to build them too, right?
Some info on wheel chair motors. Good for lots of diy projects. The gear box is usually a worm gear reduction. There should be a lever of some type sticking out of the box. It dis-engages the gears so the chair can be pushed without power. Bearing will be heavy duty types, the shaft sticking out the side is actually the axle for main drive wheel, has to support half the weight of chair plus occupant. There is a small electric disk brake built into the back of the motor, works backward from what you would think. Apply power to release the brake. A safety gadget to lock the wheels when stationary. There's 2 carbon brushes which are about the only wear items, easily replaceable. The design is permanent field magnets, reverse the power leads and it runs in the other direction. Normally 4 wires, 2 smaller ones are for the brake, other 2 to the motor. The controller in the wheel chair would work just fine on a sawmill. That joystick is actually coupled to 2 separate contollers, one for each motor. Output is variable speed in either direction..
I'm quite familiar, with these units, wife has 3 operable chairs that I keep running, and my mill uses one in a homemade auto clutch.
Quote from: pineywoods on May 11, 2015, 12:11:38 PM
Some info on wheel chair motors. Good for lots of diy projects. The gear box is usually a worm gear reduction. There should be a lever of some type sticking out of the box. It dis-engages the gears so the chair can be pushed without power. Bearing will be heavy duty types, the shaft sticking out the side is actually the axle for main drive wheel, has to support half the weight of chair plus occupant. There is a small electric disk brake built into the back of the motor, works backward from what you would think. Apply power to release the brake. A safety gadget to lock the wheels when stationary. There's 2 carbon brushes which are about the only wear items, easily replaceable. The design is permanent field magnets, reverse the power leads and it runs in the other direction. Normally 4 wires, 2 smaller ones are for the brake, other 2 to the motor. The controller in the wheel chair would work just fine on a sawmill. That joystick is actually coupled to 2 separate contollers, one for each motor. Output is variable speed in either direction..
I'm quite familiar, with these units, wife has 3 operable chairs that I keep running, and my mill uses one in a homemade auto clutch.
One tough little motor... Just keep the water off them...And don't EVER hammer on them. The magnets cant take the shock. Question Pineywoods... How well do you think this controller will work with the wheelchair motors ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DC_10-50V_60A_Motor_Speed_Control_PWM_HHO_RC_Controller_12V_24V_48V_3000W~0.jpg)
K, that controller should work just fine. The weak link is usually the printed circuit runs on the back side of the board.If that gets to be a problem, solder a piece of solid wire over the runs. Wife's first handicap mobility was a 3 wheel scooter with a similar controller driving a 2 hp 24 volt moter, belted to the rear axle out of a riding lawn mower. DanG thing would climb up over a curb with her on board. Looks like everything is self-contained, I see a plug with 2 wires which probably goes to on/off switch. Other 3 wire plug goes a standard 2k pot for speed control. Is it reversable ?? I used a dpdt relay to reverse hers..
Really, really good info here guys. Thanks for sharing it! :P
Wow...Yea... Thanks for the info... The controller in the picture was really made for an RC toy car... They are really tough on those things so I thought it would be a tough board...
Well every time I go to the junkyard my plans change.
Today I found 10 more wheelchair motors.
The one I decided to use to lift the carriage has double gear reduction and it runs real slow.
This makes it so I don't need a huge sprocket on the winch.
I tested it on 12 volts and it works.
I had a little trouble getting the brake to kick off with only 12 volts but it did work.
I will also have a controller on the lift motor.
I'm not sure if I will put in a double throw double pole toggle or a relay for my reverse.
I like the idea of relays because then I can put limit switches on the travel and I already have the relays.
Here is a picture of the motor gearbox I ended up using.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02693.jpg)
Also with the winch shaft sticking out from the chain cover I could put a crank handle on it and release the gearbox to move the carriage if I had a power failure.
I'll be able to put a seat on this thing and ride along with the cut....
I dont think that will ever happen...
I got my 24 volt Alternator in today... easy one wire hookup...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02694.JPG)
K
A very ambitious build.
Good luck with it. I am very glade you are posting pictures as you go.
gww
I got the carriage track motor installed today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02695.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02696.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02700.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02697.jpg)
Will you have a fast return or the same speed both ways?
gww
Quote from: Ox on May 05, 2015, 11:46:20 AM
Cool! I wish my area had better junkyards.
I feel your pain..... :( The old "dig around and find what you need" salvage yards are a thing of the past around here.
Delawhere Jack - You bet. It's all from scumbags who got something from the yard and sued. The big one around here simply will not even entertain the thought of you buying something you need from them and have it leave the yard. I've got one good ol' boy over the hills and hollers but his selection is quite limited. It's mostly, well, junk.
He does have a big old logging truck with crane boom and grapple that runs. He used to load scrap with it. Says he'd sell it to me for $2,200. Probably be a heck of a deal if I had the funds. It'll need some work and TLC of course but it's all there.
Maybe someday.
Quote from: gww on May 12, 2015, 05:00:57 PM
Will you have a fast return or the same speed both ways?
gww
The reverse will bypass the controller at this point of thinking...
Or I could have both... Not sure yet untill I test.
Things sure are busy around here ... Seems like less and lees time to work on the mill.
I got the battery boxes built today and the alt bracket.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02733~0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02730.JPG)
Hard to find time to work on the mill these days.
I got the pulley mounted behind the clutch today.
I started on the alternator shelf bracket but I did not get it finished.
Pictures will be not far behind...
As long as you do at least one little thing every day you can it will eventually get done. It's a certainty!
I look forward to the updates and pics - thanks.
Quote from ox
QuoteI look forward to the updates and pics - thanks
x2
gww
Alternator is mounted....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02767.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02768.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02770.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02769.jpg)
Today I changed the look ....
I give it a home....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02761.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02762.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02763.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02764.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02776.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02779.JPG)
It might have been neat to just go ahead and add an airconditioner compressor when you added the altinator. You are well on your way to incloseing it :laugh: I love that you give lots of pictures from lots of angles. Then you don't have to say much.
Cheers
gww
Looks great, bub. One question - is that a special clutch? My clutch mounts the other way around and I now don't have room for an alternator belt pulley like you have mounted. My clutch basically takes up the whole shaft with the exception of about 3 machine washers to space it up to the end of the shaft for the single bolt in the end to clamp it all down tight.
I'd like to have mine like yours.
Quote from: Ox on May 25, 2015, 08:41:16 PM
Looks great, bub. One question - is that a special clutch? My clutch mounts the other way around and I now don't have room for an alternator belt pulley like you have mounted. My clutch basically takes up the whole shaft with the exception of about 3 machine washers to space it up to the end of the shaft for the single bolt in the end to clamp it all down tight.
I'd like to have mine like yours.
Not special ... You can turn any clutch around. It's better to do this to help keep the stress of the engine bearings.
You see this a lot on racing gocarts. They alway flip the clutch around backwards. I did not have room for the alternator belt pulley eather. I machined a pulley to fit up on the back of the engine crank journal that was not machined.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/bearing__journal.jpg)
I see now. That's the problem I have as well, with the shoulder on the output shaft of the engine.
I understand that a centrifugal clutch doesn't care which way it spins.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. Most times the simplest and most effective solution escapes me.
After going out and looking at my clutch again, it's mounted the same way as yours. I remembered it all backwards and upside down and twisted and knotted and.......
Todays work....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02781.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02783.JPG)
great build just saw this post
We love pics
Thanks for posting
I got a question. My mill will have a 24 volts system.
This is needed to run my moving motors. I using two 12 volt battery's in series.
But I would I also like to add a 12 volt electric hydraulic system for my log loader lifter.
Will I be messing with the charging system if I tap only one battery for my 12 volts?
I cant think of a way to tap both battery's for 12 V and 24 V with out a direct short.
Can you just come off of your 24 volt system and use a regulator/reducer to get your 12 volts?
Just an idea.
K, you can do that and it will work, but there is a downside. Battery life will be severly impacted. The battery providing the 12 volts will be discharged while the other remains fully charged. The alternator only sees a 24 volt battery and will try to rechage both, resulting in over charging one and not fully charging the other.
Could you use a household light dimmer switch to regulate the voltage to whatever you want?.
I've done this with a blower/vent fan for variable speed operation.
It goes all the way from off to full-on.
Guess I'll just use a flip flop switch...
I'll use one battery for an hour and flip a switch to the second battery...
Or I could just put a timmer on it and let it switch it's self...
The only thing that really needs to use the 12volts is the log lifter...
Everything else will be 24 volts...
google voltage reducers. I don't think they are very high and I also think they are not that hard to make depending on the amprage used. If it uses a lot though it will fun into money.
Depends on how much you want to spend. My charge contollers for my solar would do it but they cost $500 each. If it is low amp pull you could take from a 24 volt system and have no battery imballance.
It was mentioned earlier in this thread.
Good luck
gww
I dont think I'm aloud to post a link to E-bay, but I found this for sale...
Would it work ?
Title.
DC-DC 120W 24V To 12V 10A GOLF CART Voltage Reducer Converter Regulator
Features:
* All epoxy sealed containers with waterproof die-cast aluminum housing;
* Light compact, convenient to use and transport;
* Non-isolated:
* High efficiency: > 90%;
* Operating temperature: -10 ℃ ~ +60 ℃; (max.+80 ℃)
* With overload / over-current / over / low voltage protection, stable performance;
* Input:DC 24V
* Output:DC12V 10Amax
DC-DC 120W 24V To 12V 10A GOLF CART Voltage Reducer Converter Regulator
Cheap enough... US $13.95 Shipping free...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/12__to_24_volts.jpg)
How many amps does the hydraulic motor need? I suspect it's a lot more than the 10 amps that unit is good for.
Thats the sort of thing you would use to run a 12V radio from a 24v truck system (or golf cart). I'd guess a motor that could drive log loader might need 50-100 amps?
Are you able to swap the hydraulic drive motor for a 24 volt one?
Quote from: Ianab on May 28, 2015, 03:42:09 AM
How many amps does the hydraulic motor need? I suspect it's a lot more than the 10 amps that unit is good for.
Thats the sort of thing you would use to run a 12V radio from a 24v truck system (or golf cart). I'd guess a motor that could drive log loader might need 50-100 amps?
Are you able to swap the hydraulic drive motor for a 24 volt one?
Yea your right... The biggest I can find is 20 amp...
I still don't see why I cant slap a HUGE diode in the 12 volt line to tap both battery's.
If it does its job and lets the electric travel only one way I don't see how it could backfeed back to the battery...
Cheap on E-bay... WESTCODE SILICON RECTIFIER DIODE - SW08PHN300 -- 380amps
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/WESTCODE_SILICON_RECTIFIER_DIODE_-_SW08PHN300_--_380amps.jpg)
K
Earlyer you said every thing else would run on 12 volts. Why not sell your altinator and just go 12 volts and your issues are done. the big diode would stop any back feed to the battery but the twelve volt hydrolic would still be getting 24 volts. If you use a diode you need to find a heavy heat sink cause it will need it.
gww
Justallan was describing/suggesting stepping down from 24 to 12 volts, that should do the job.
All my movement (carriage up and down... Carriage right and left) is powered with 24 volt wheelchair motors.
My log lift hydraulics was going to be 12 volts.
So tell me why this wont work ???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/12_or_24_volts_from_both_batterys.jpg)
It will be easier than that, Kbeitz. If you wire two 12v batteries in series, you get a maximum voltage of 24 volts. If you test the voltage across the posts of the first battery in the series (closest to ground), you'll find that you have only 12 volts available. Use a multimeter to determine your wiring, but drawing 12 volts out of a 24 volt system is straightforward. Bear in mind that the battery that you're drawing 12 volts from will see more loading, so regularly switching the battery position is a good idea to get the longest life from your batteries.
I would just get a 24 volt pump and be done with it. Messing with DC/DC converters or speed controls or remembering to swap batteries is just more stuff to go wrong.
Quote from: Andre on May 31, 2015, 02:04:09 PM
I would just get a 24 volt pump and be done with it. Messing with DC/DC converters or speed controls or remembering to swap batteries is just more stuff to go wrong.
By regularly, I mean every 3 months. Not really that difficult to remember, and cost zero dollars.
Need someone to double check my wireing...
Lower switch bypasses the speed board for fast return.
Upper switch reverses the carriage motor.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/wiring_2.jpg)
I got some junkyard metal yesterday ...
Just what I need for my log lifter.
I sure would like to see the metal bender that did this job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02857.JPG)
I got my limit switches installed...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Limit_switches.jpg)
Working on the electrical...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02781~0.JPG)
Soon your electrical box will be full.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0085.JPG)
This is arnold113 showing PatD his control box. ;D
Shore'nuff, that's impressive. So over my head that I can't even comment on it! Simply impressive.
Quote from: Ox on June 02, 2015, 12:22:06 PM
Shore'nuff, that's impressive. So over my head that I can't even comment on it! Simply impressive.
Nothing is as hard as it looks... You need to break it down and look at it one part at a time...
You end up doing things twice sometimes or untill you get it right.
Also google will show you everything you ever wanted to know...
Today I got the metal I needed to redo my log dogs.
I needed to make the shaft square instead of round.
The dogs would rotate on the round shaft and fall out.
The square shaft can't rotate.
Works much better.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02862.JPG)
"Building square keeps it there" :)
Hi Keibtz
I just came across your build & it looks great. I am in the process of building a mill also and noticed that you used the same type of DC speed controllers that I did to start with to control my 3 wheel chair motors. They were cheap and worked good for about an hour of testing movements of the 3 axis but one by one they failed, at first they would loose speed control then they would loose stop control and then would run upon applying power and wouldn't stop. To fix this I replaced them with (3) minarik 24v dc drives to control the speed of the (3) 24 volt wheelchair motors and they worked great, they have the ability to accel to a speed and decal to a stop and also have torque limiting. In addition I also added DC current shunt displays on the 3 motors so I could see what amperage they were producing. I also set up the preset speeds using resistors and relays to have a slow and fast speed settings at around 20% and 80%.
Good luck
Casey Kennedy
Quote from: CaseyK on June 03, 2015, 11:05:21 PM
Hi Keibtz
I just came across your build & it looks great. I am in the process of building a mill also and noticed that you used the same type of DC speed controllers that I did to start with to control my 3 wheel chair motors. They were cheap and worked good for about an hour of testing movements of the 3 axis but one by one they failed, at first they would loose speed control then they would loose stop control and then would run upon applying power and wouldn't stop. To fix this I replaced them with (3) minarik 24v dc drives to control the speed of the (3) 24 volt wheelchair motors and they worked great, they have the ability to accel to a speed and decal to a stop and also have torque limiting. In addition I also added DC current shunt displays on the 3 motors so I could see what amperage they were producing. I also set up the preset speeds using resistors and relays to have a slow and fast speed settings at around 20% and 80%.
Good luck
Casey Kennedy
I looked at minarik 24v dc drives on E-bay and seen different models.
Could you give me a part # ?
I though what I bought would work real good because they are rated for up to 50 amps.
But if they dont hold up I will give what you bought a shot...
Thanks.
Kevin
I got a good start on my log roller today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Log_roller.JPG)
Hope you post a vidio when you get this mill done so I can see how everything works. You are defanatly going all out.
Good luck
gww
Kbeitz, the drives I used were MINARIK DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROL DRIVE MODEL XP32-12/24DC, when searching ebay you will want to buy one with a heat sink or purchase one seperatly. Also you may want to search for a XP60, it has the same function but is capable of 60 amps & I got one of those because I found one cheaper than the 30 amp units. Any of the dc shunt volt / current meters should work for displaying the v/c of the motor.
There is a XP-32 on e-bay right now for about $80 with shipping.
Looks like it come with a heat sink or do you add more?
As of now there is no XP-60 listed
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/MINARIK_DC_MOTOR_SPEED_CONTROL_DRIVE_MODEL_XP32-12-24DC.jpg)
The picture is for the basic unit, the heat sink will be bigger and have cooling fins. Some of the other minark drives listed may show the heat sink. Or try to google the manual for the xp-32 and in there it list the part number for the heat sink. When I searched it on ebay by the part number back a couple of months ago there were atleast 3-4 sellers that had several.
If worst comes to worst, the old telivision sets have real good heat sinks that can be retrofitted. It is best if the slots the fins make are facing up and down so air flow is created. sorta like a register fins in a boiler heating system. Probly lot of other electric stuff have good heat sinks also. More and bigger in heat sink is better. I have one from a tv on the back of an ssr that I use to preheat hot water.
Good luck.
gww
With a "bare" option like that board you probably have the option of using the mounting as your heat sink. An aluminium box for example could hold the electronics, AND conduct the heat away. In a sawmill application that sort of thing probably matters because you want to keep the dust out of the electronics, which makes a cooling fan a problem. They don't work well in a sealed box, and air vents let in the dust. So you use the case as the heat sink.
Bolting some sections of U channel alloy on the back of the case behind where the unit is mounted would work, and use some silicon thermal paste in each joint to move the heat away better. Running the fins vertical like gww mentions helps, because convection then helps the air flow easier. Or add a small external fan for extra air flow.
K, I use 24 and 12 VDC from two batteries just as you do; 24 for wheelchair motor and 12 for winch for loading/turning. Been very pleased with it. If your DC speed controller doesn't have polarity protection rig up something simple and foolproof. Here's my experience:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,68613.msg1032103.html#msg1032103
Bob
Uck.... Painting...
I hand brushed the whole thing to give it a good thick coat.
After it dries and I touch up I will spray paint the whole thing again.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Painted.JPG)
I always liked blue.
gww
Don't feel like the lone ranger, buddy. I hate painting too! All those nooks and crannies. If you've never painted tractors or machinery before there's no way do describe it.
When I bought my mill 13 years ago, Cook told me their most time consuming step in building one is painting. ugh! I hate it too.
Bob
Lord, I believe it, too. And I don't have to make mine showroom pretty, either!
About 3/4 of the time is sand and mask and prep work. Without proper prepping no paint job will last.
I've painted/restored two tractors. an Allis Chalmers D19 and an International 1466.
The Allis I took down to bare metal, split it for clutch, etc. and it came to over $6,000 at $20 per hour shop rate. It was for a then "friend" and I took the bill down to $3500. 2 primer coats, 3 base coats and 2 clear coats. She shined like a new penny and was better than brand new. Of course, no pictures. I don't have many pics at all of my adult life.
The 1466 was basically a repaint but came out real nice. Clearcoat as well. Even that quicker job came to around 100 hours. Simply incredible, isn't it? Really need 2 guns on a tractor that size.
Took 3 days to paint my new mill with 2 coats!
I hate painting. Have I mentioned that? :D
Well I got my brush coat all done...
The spray coat wont be so bad.
Then comes the electrical.
This is what I got so far and this is showing for only one drive motor.
I got two drive motors the log lifter and the log turner to draw in yet.
Also the master switch and fuses.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wireing_~0.jpg)
You're a better man than me. I look at the diagrams you post and my eyes glass over and a little bit of dribble escapes from the corner of my mouth and slowly runs down my chin, through my beard and into my lap. My wife finds me hours later and screams, "Are you having a seizure?!?" I snap out of it and tell her, "No, there's a guy on the forum that's building a sawmill." She then looks at me as if I'm crazy and quietly leaves, shaking her head and muttering something about sawmills and cookies. smiley_headscratch
Quote from: Ox on June 06, 2015, 11:52:56 PM
You're a better man than me. I look at the diagrams you post and my eyes glass over and a little bit of dribble escapes from the corner of my mouth and slowly runs down my chin, through my beard and into my lap. My wife finds me hours later and screams, "Are you having a seizure?!?" I snap out of it and tell her, "No, there's a guy on the forum that's building a sawmill." She then looks at me as if I'm crazy and quietly leaves, shaking her head and muttering something about sawmills and cookies. smiley_headscratch
It helps when you like playing with electricity.
I'm hopeing I got everything right.
I cost money when you goof up.
Yes, having an interest definitely helps a lot.
Roger that, loud and clear, on costing $ when mistakes are made. I wish you all the luck. :)
I installed my solar system, built 2 wind turbines, built a charge controller from a kit. Seperated most of my house to a box run by solar. Put a preheat hotwater tank run with excess solar based on the battery voltage. With all that, You are so far above my skill level that I get dizzy when I look up to where you are. I do apretiate the costly mistake aspect. I look at your post and want to help, think to myself I should be able to help and then relize, I don't have enough skill to help you.
good luck
gww
gww - you did all that and in other posts you call yourself stupid or not smart enough! I beg to differ.
Credit where it's due, my friend. :)
Ox
All I can say is doing house electric is mostly carpentry but curcuits and controlls are a differrent animal compleetly. I do know of a couple of forums where there are truely smart people and not just copy cats like me. They know why something is put where. Me I ask them and then just put it there. I don't ever figure out why I put it there. The only smarts I have is knowing who to ask and who to listen to. Besides that. You haven't seen my stuff so I might still be dumb. I haven't killed myself yet though, knock on wood.
Kb
If you ever want to run your circuitry by smart poeple I do know a couple of forum sites. They are mostly for solar but you pictures would be understood by them and they are credable helpers.
gww
Hi Kbeitz
Ive got a circuit drawn up for you but my computer wont scan it but hope to have it sent by the end of the night. The speed controller you have gets its reference from the wiper lead of either a 1 k or 10 k pot and also has another 2 leads that close when the pot is in the off position to keep the drive from going to run mode when the pot is almost turned to off position. After looking at several small dc drives manuals they all suggest leaving power on the drive and starting the motor by the pot input and also shorting the pot input to the negative pot lead so that there is a 0 volt speed reference. On mine I used one power relay for direction control, an AB 700 relay 4 pole with reversible NO NC contacts. If the direction relay was not energized then it went fwd if energized then it went reverse. I will try to post the diagram, it will make a lot better easier to understand.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/29590/drive.jpg)
OOps
The drawing assumes that the A terminal of the pot is the common voltage or 0 volt side of the pot and C is the + voltage side of the pot, typically 10V. So when stopped the wiper signal will be 0 volt, when running not fast it will see 2v, when running and fast relay is energized it will see 8v. You will have to verify this before connecting the motor to the load. Good luck.
I started the wireing today. I made it move under power just to see how it would work.
First thing I learned is that it does not need the electric brakes.
Thats one thing less I will need to wire up.
Good news! Less is more in this case, right? ;)
Well today 5/14/15 it's finished.... I am so tired of working on this project. Next week I'm takeing a day and going for a cycle ride...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/5-14-15_Finished.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02923.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02924.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02925.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02929.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02937.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02936.JPG)
I am impressed. Now what?
gww
Couple of neat things I added. So many people talk about sawing into the log dogs.
I put a bar on the head that will ether push the dog down or stop the mill before the blade hits.
See first picture. Then I added spring loaded stops so I can flip a switch to return the mill head
back to the starting spot at full speed. The spring loaded stop hits the limit switch and retracts as
the mill is coming to a stop. There is a secondary limit switch just in case the first one fails.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dog_stopper.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02930.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02932.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02934.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02935.JPG)
The two electrical boxes had some changes....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02946.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02947.JPG)
Quote from: gww on June 14, 2015, 06:17:54 PM
I am impressed. Now what?
gww
Take a break and let the paint dry...
Very cool. ;D When do we get to see some sawdust? 8) 8) 8) :snowball:
Quote from: mesquite buckeye on June 14, 2015, 07:18:57 PM
Very cool. ;D When do we get to see some sawdust? 8) 8) 8) :snowball:
Hoping next week....
Quote from: Kbeitz on June 14, 2015, 06:29:52 PM
Quote from: gww on June 14, 2015, 06:17:54 PM
I am impressed. Now what?
gww
Take a break and let the paint dry...
Heck if I had made that I would have to get sawdust ALLL over it and me right NOW. :D
Quote from: tmarch on June 14, 2015, 08:08:31 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on June 14, 2015, 06:29:52 PM
Quote from: gww on June 14, 2015, 06:17:54 PM
I am impressed. Now what?
gww
Take a break and let the paint dry...
Heck if I had made that I would have to get sawdust ALLL over it and me right NOW. :D
With the sticky paint the sawdust would be forever....
Think I'll wait....
Looks to be a real nice job. I know i'd be chomping at the bit waiting for that paint dry.
That is a nice job and well done. The R & R is deserved. 8)
It's clear you put a lot of thought and time into this mill. You should be very proud!
I took the mill for a ride today...
Handled real good...
I also stopped in at the junkyard and had it weighed ... 2340 lbs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02950.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02953.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02955.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02958.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sawmill_weight.jpg)
Tommorow is the BIG day... I cant wait any longer...
I got the first log loaded up and ready to go...
Any first time pointers ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02963.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02960.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02964.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02961.JPG)
That looks amazing! Very nice job smiley_clapping.
What's the red bar across the back for?
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on June 17, 2015, 07:29:42 PM
That looks amazing! Very nice job smiley_clapping.
What's the red bar across the back for?
It's just a leveling jack. I left it red to help people see what they are running into...
Great work on the mill you are very clever .
Can't wait to see it cut .
Jim/Bruno
There are times when you are going to have the coolest car on the road. I love you pictures and have no pointers but doubt you need any.
gww
When I took it for it's ride today after I got home I seen both safety chains was draging the ground unhooked.
I know for sure I hooked then up. You can even see them hooked up in this picture.
I never in my life had safety chains come unhooked. Wonder why ???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02951.JPG)
In the pic it looks like they are touching the ground. Maybe not, but doesn't take much to get them bouncing... and maybe unhooking during a bounce.
I've had them come unhooked before too and I didn't know why. Then an old timer told me (this was years ago) to cross them over each other then hook them. Never had a problem again. Make an "x" with the chains under the tongue and your problem will probably be gone like mine was. :)
I have never looked it up but have been told that here S hooks are not legal, need to have snap hooks or something that cannot come unhooked. Also been told they have to be short enough to prevent the tongue hitting the ground, which effectively means they need to be crossed to prevent binding on sharp corners.
Never looked it up because it seemed to make sense to do anyway.
Probably a lot of different opinions on this one. :)
Yep... I had them crossed... But they do have the S hooks on them...
I think I'll change that.
Safety chains are like a fire extinguisher, pain in the butt and always in the way, but when you need them their everything. Use the regular high strength chain hooks with the spring loaded clips and high test chain. They can save lives. Frank C.
If your chains are a little too long you can give them a twist or two to effectively shorten them up.
Well today was a rainy day. So I did not even try to saw.
I want a good day so I can set up the video camera.
I spent most of the day in the woods getting some more logs.
i also took some time to install some indicator lights on the main control box.
This way If I have any problems with the electrical it will be easy to trouble shoot.
Does anyone use the commercial electric chain saws ?
I love them. I think they will keep up with almost any gas saw.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03008.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03002.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03004.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03005.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03007.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03009.JPG)
kbeitz, I have two Milwaukee electrics use them all the time around the mill, they start easy. Frank C.
I like those old electric chainsaws.
What's it like to have hydraulics that don't let off? :D
An old adz is something you don't see everyday. I have an old adz that I need to hang someday.
I have about 6 adz... I use them all the time... Great for removeing bark.
I hand carved some of the main rafters in my home with one.
Old picture... 1979.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Building_my_porch__9-17-1979.jpg)
what brand of saw is the silver colored one? Which one cuts fastest?
Quote from: ozarkgem on June 18, 2015, 09:26:17 PM
what brand of saw is the silver colored one? Which one cuts fastest?
The silver one is a Skil. I think they are both about equal in speed.
I have yet to cut a log... Rain rain rain....
I did go back out in the woods and got some more logs in...
I also found this buddy....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Racer_1.JPG)
That is the only snake in the world that doesn't bother me.
gww
Don't believe I've ever seen one like that with the ring around the neck. What kind is it?
Here in Pa. we call them Racers.. They are harmless...
A black racer? I've heard tell of them. Just looking at it, the shape of the head, if I saw one I'd think it was harmless. Doesn't have the diamond shaped head.
Do baby rattlers and cottonmouths have the diamond shaped head or do the poisonous snakes develop them as they get into the older years?
We always called them "ring neck snakes" Like I said, the only snake I am not scared of. We used to play with them all the time when kids. I have never seen one even open its mouth no matter what was going on. It is not the same with a garter snake, black snake, hog nose snake. All of them will try to bite but not a ring neck, It doesn;t even try.
gww
I made some sawdust today....
I had some of the waviest siding you ever saw.
I think there should be a market for waive siding.
I tried tightening the blade. Cutting faster. Cutting slower.
And then I thought I might sharpen the junkyard blade.
Yep... Even the blade came from the junkyard.
I can tell you I don't know nothing about sharpen band saw blades.
I don't even know nothing about running a saw mill.
But I was watching UTube on how people was sharping there blades.
One person was sharping there blades with a dermal.
So I thought I would give it a try.
I have sharpened many other types of blades and drill bits so I do know a little about angles.
I started by using a 3/8 dermal grind stone.
The first thing I noticed was there was no hook on the tips.
I see people talking about 4% 7% and so on for different woods.
I had no idea what my blade is or was.
But it just looked wrong.
So I sharpened the gullet part of the blade to give it a small hook.
See first picture.... I have no idea if I did it right.
But I was right for me... What a difference... Cuts great... And straight....
Happy day....
Second picture shows my waves.
From my experence today I know I will never pay someone to sharpen my blades.
It only took me about 4-5 min to sharpen the blade without removeing it from the mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sharpened.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Waves.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03034.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03035.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc03037.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03048.JPG)
A few more mods I made.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03062.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03058.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03059.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03057.JPG)
Way cool, it is great to see that it worked out!
One thing I noticed on your mill that is the same as on the one I had made is the "T" handle on the log dog, I was thinking of changing mine to a "L" shape to make it easier and faster to thread it in or out but then I sold the mill. Not a big difference but when you add up the number of times that the dog is turned in and out when cutting one log it well add up.
Congrats on the success!
Quote from: Hilltop366 on June 20, 2015, 08:27:35 PM
Way cool, it is great to see that it worked out!
One thing I noticed on your mill that is the same as on the one I had made is the "T" handle on the log dog, I was thinking of changing mine to a "L" shape to make it easier and faster to thread it in or out but then I sold the mill. Not a big difference but when you add up the number of times that the dog is turned in and out when cutting one log it well add up.
Congrats on the success!
I had the L ..... I did not like it at all.... I did not think it was doing the job.
It was like nothing was there...
But I'm also not happy with what I got....
I think I will go with hydraulic.
Congrats on getting it done up to this point. I'm betting your make more mods yet, 8)
Sounds like you've definitely got it pretty close to dialed in right off the bat.
Great build.
Where did you get your sawmill scale from? I'm thinking I want a quarter scale because all the numbers on the inch stick keep getting jumbled up in my stupid head. ::) :-\ I'm tired of making mistakes. Me and numbers have never gotten along very well and it's getting worse.
Quote from: Ox on June 20, 2015, 11:04:47 PM
Where did you get your sawmill scale from? I'm thinking I want a quarter scale because all the numbers on the inch stick keep getting jumbled up in my stupid head. ::) :-\ I'm tired of making mistakes. Me and numbers have never gotten along very well and it's getting worse.
Cooks...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu7QwF3JjGw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu7QwF3JjGw)
I have no idea how to insert a video....
Hope this works...
Looks like she's cutting good for you - awesome! Feels good to be milling, doesn't it?
Your hair looks a little lighter then the last picture of yourself that you posted. What happened there :laugh:.
Seriously, your mill looks great.
gww
Too much thinking and building mills, I reckon. :D
Seriously though, you've built yourself a fine mill. You should be proud.
Thanks everyone...
Building things is really what I like to do.
Next project will be a log arch....
I think thats what they are called.
Lifts the log and carries it to the mill ?
Yep, I've heard them called that. There's another term I've heard too, not as often. A fetcher maybe? Log fetcher? ???
I got in around 8 hours run time on the mill today...
I'm going real slow learning as I go.
Around the third board that I was cutting my mill started diving really bad.
Then I see that I had the throttle sat at 2/3 full.
I opened it up and what a difference a couple hundred RPM makes.
It started cutting striate as a dive the rest of the day.
Right at the end of the day I started hearing a clicking sound at the top of the blade
under the cover. I stopped the saw a few time and tried to find the source.
I could find nothing. My last cut I stood two boards on end to cut 1" of bark off the top.
About half way through BANG... My blade broke. So I think the sound that I was hearing
was my blade cracking. After I put on a different blade I heard nothing. Question....
Would sawdust buildup on the two band wheels make enough pressure to break a blade ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Todays_cut.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03076.JPG)
K
QuoteWould sawdust buildup on the two band wheels make enough pressure to break a blade ?
I don't think so. I have broke two blades so far. One I was cutting without guide and some one said this causes cupping of the blade and causes them to break. The other one I had cut quite a bit and had only sharpend the points. Some one said if the gullet isn't taken down every so often you get hair line cracks. Cooks, I believe says if the back of the blade is running against the guides it will cause cracking in the back of the blade. If the blade is dull it will ride the back of the guide harder. As you can tell this is just a collection of things I have read and not things I know.
How much wood did you cut with just one blade. Most say change at two hours of cutting.
I really don't know but thought I would throw this stuff out and hope it helps more then hurts.
good luck
gww
Kevin, nice job indded.
Quote from: gww on June 22, 2015, 09:49:40 PM
K
QuoteWould sawdust buildup on the two band wheels make enough pressure to break a blade ?
I don't think so. I have broke two blades so far. One I was cutting without guide and some one said this causes cupping of the blade and causes them to break. The other one I had cut quite a bit and had only sharpend the points. Some one said if the gullet isn't taken down every so often you get hair line cracks. Cooks, I believe says if the back of the blade is running against the guides it will cause cracking in the back of the blade. If the blade is dull it will ride the back of the guide harder. As you can tell this is just a collection of things I have read and not things I know.
How much wood did you cut with just one blade. Most say change at two hours of cutting.
I really don't know but thought I would throw this stuff out and hope it helps more then hurts.
good luck
gww
No idea on how many hours is on the blade.
I got them from the junkyard. I cut up three 18 foot logs with it before it broke.
No big loss. I'm using the junkyard blades for my learning experience.
When I broke I seen a ring of sawdust on both wheels.
I guess I need to make scrapers.
Sawdust buildup could break a band, I suppose. If you're maxed out on the tension already it wouldn't take much buildup to push the blade past its breaking point. This is where a spring tensioner is better. I've never had more than just a coating on my wheels but I watch the pressure gauge like a hawk anyway. I'm always giving a tweak here and there. It changes as much as 400 lbs sometimes between cuts. The sun hitting the pump, sawdust buildup, blade heating, etc. all affect tension. More than likely the bands are old and rusty, right? I've had bad luck with old rusty bands. One was a WM .055, 1 1/2" wide, 10° that only had about 2 hours on it. It was pretty rusty, I sharpened and set it and it didn't last a half hour. Heard the ticking then bang. Same thing with a 1 1/4" blade. This isn't to say a rusty blade won't last, just hasn't with me yet.
If you got three logs on a junkyard blade, you're in the green! Like you said, you get your practice with them before getting new expensive ones.
I have no way of knowing how tight to make my blade because I have no indicators.
The blades only have a very light coat of surface rust that comes off almost right away.
So... If I here ticking it's a good chance the the blades ready to go ???
I will know what to look for if I here ticking again.
Maybe I can silver solder it before it snaps all the way off.
First picture is the way I tighten my blade for tension.
Second picture is my blade rust.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Tracking_bolt.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03543.JPG)
Those blades are in much better shape than the rusty ones I tried.
And yes, most times the ticking means you'll have a busted blade right quick. It's quite different than a ticking wheel bearing or similar bearings going bad. You've heard it and you'll always remember it!
There's a way to clamp a caliper on the blade and tension it to read the amount of stretch or tension being put on the blade. I can't remember what the reading needs to be. I think most blades of the same size are quite similar to the tension they require.
Try a search here for checking tension or homemade tension checker or something like that. There was pics if I remember right.
Mills with your style of tensioner usually count the number of turns after the blade gets just snug enough to take shape where it looks like it should.
I wish I was of more help, but this is the best I can do. Hopefully it sparks some ideas or gets you going in a better direction? :)
On the Hudson HFE-21 that I had was the same basic tensioner set-up and it called for 35 inch pounds with a torque wrench. You might check with them or download their mill specs for a comparable mill to yours and see if there is any difference, I don't see why there would be.
I actually ran with closer to 28-30 lbs and it stayed straight as an arrow.
Hope this helps.
Justallen
I knew I had seen what you posted and I searched the net yesterday to try and find it so I could post a link. I was afraid I had just dreamed it though I have mentioned it before in a differrent thread. I didn't post cause I thought I might have made it up. Thanks for posting cause now I know I am not crazy.
gww
I run 28-30 ft lbs of torq on my thomas mill with 1 1/2 .55 /.50 bands if this helps any
Jim/Bruno
gww, no problem. BTW, your last sentence there you make it sound as if being crazy is a bad thing, what's up with that? :D
Quote from: justallan1 on June 24, 2015, 10:04:56 AM
On the Hudson HFE-21 that I had was the same basic tensioner set-up and it called for 35 inch pounds with a torque wrench. You might check with them or download their mill specs for a comparable mill to yours and see if there is any difference, I don't see why there would be.
I actually ran with closer to 28-30 lbs and it stayed straight as an arrow.
Hope this helps.
There would be so many factors that would make that different. Course thread verses fine thread. Oiled or not...
Guess what I need is one of these.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Band_Saw_Blade_Tension_Meter~0.jpg)
Well my first job and my mill is not big enough.
I can only cut up to 18 feet long and I need 19-20 feet.
So I'm making a 10 foot extension.
The job I got is to fix the pavilion made out of White birch trees.
Don't make anything out of White Birch.
It's only 4 years old and the wood is rotten.
I'm building a sub frame under the building to hold it up.
It will still have the nice white Birch look but all the weight will be on my new frame.
Got the logs cut and ready to be sawed.
Got the C-channel out and ready for cutting and welding.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03104.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03106.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03109.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03110.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03112.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03108.JPG)
There would be so many factors that would make that different. Course thread verses fine thread. Oiled or not...
Guess what I need is one of these.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Band_Saw_Blade_Tension_Meter~0.jpg)
[/quote]
Well dang-it, next time maybe I might ought to spend a few more seconds thinking on something before responding. :D
Good call and valid info, for sure.
K
If you keep buying all this new stuff you are going to have to say you built "part" of the mill out of scrap stuff :laugh:.
cheers
gww
I could just keep guessing and pinking the blade until I get a feel for it.
I was thinking of building a meter like the one above.
I don't think it would be hard to make one and I got lots of dial indicators.
Then all I would need to do is to find someone else's mill to check the blade tension for the first time to get a reading.
I really like the looks of that rustic pavilion! I bet it took quite a lot of time to get together.
I just did a quick search by typing in "homemade blade tension" and found some info for you. I don't know how to post a link but search for the thread "blade tension". It's the 4th one down using the search I just mentioned. There's info there telling you how much stretch over a certain number of inches on your blade and other info. It's only a single page post but full of information. I was way off on my guess. I'll copy and paste this next stuff:
My Linn has a 1 inch diameter hydraulic tensioner. Suggested set point is 2300 psi for a 1.25 inch wide blade.
So 1 inch diameter is 1.27 sq inches, so about 1811 lbs of force.
You can also just attach a decent micrometer/caliper directly to the blade to measure the stretch.
I forget the formula, but something like a one thou stretch over 10 thou is so many lbs of force.
Found it:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,7923.0.html
Money shots:
Lennox replied to my question and said 0.0025" on 5" test. (blade?)
============
I'm running 0.042" x 1 1/2" bands, but the strain should remain the same no matter what thickness or width.
Mounting the caliper, Don't try to get exactly 6.000", way too difficult, just get it close and then add 0.005" to it.
====
I gave Simonds a quick call and they said their Red Streaks should be stressed 25,000 to 30,000 psi.
Thus:
Stress = E * Strain
25,000 psi = (29,000,000 psi) * Strain
Strain = 0.00086 in/in
Having a distance of 6" gives 6" * 0.00086" = 0.005" deflection.
So, clamp the caliper, opened to 6.000", on your band with zero tension. Then tension your band until it reads 6.005". This will give 25,000 psi in the band.
For 30,000 psi your caliper should read 6.006"
Hopefully this helps. Sounds simple enough, just spending a little time fiddle farting around but at least you'll know for future reference! :)
Quote from: Ox on June 25, 2015, 08:30:08 AM
I just did a quick search by typing in "homemade blade tension" and found some info for you. I don't know how to post a link but search for the thread "blade tension". It's the 4th one down using the search I just mentioned. There's info there telling you how much stretch over a certain number of inches on your blade and other info. It's only a single page post but full of information. I was way off on my guess. I'll copy and paste this next stuff:
My Linn has a 1 inch diameter hydraulic tensioner. Suggested set point is 2300 psi for a 1.25 inch wide blade.
So 1 inch diameter is 1.27 sq inches, so about 1811 lbs of force.
You can also just attach a decent micrometer/caliper directly to the blade to measure the stretch.
I forget the formula, but something like a one thou stretch over 10 thou is so many lbs of force.
Found it:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,7923.0.html
Money shots:
Lennox replied to my question and said 0.0025" on 5" test. (blade?)
============
I'm running 0.042" x 1 1/2" bands, but the strain should remain the same no matter what thickness or width.
Mounting the caliper, Don't try to get exactly 6.000", way too difficult, just get it close and then add 0.005" to it.
====
I gave Simonds a quick call and they said their Red Streaks should be stressed 25,000 to 30,000 psi.
Thus:
Stress = E * Strain
25,000 psi = (29,000,000 psi) * Strain
Strain = 0.00086 in/in
Having a distance of 6" gives 6" * 0.00086" = 0.005" deflection.
So, clamp the caliper, opened to 6.000", on your band with zero tension. Then tension your band until it reads 6.005". This will give 25,000 psi in the band.
For 30,000 psi your caliper should read 6.006"
Hopefully this helps. Sounds simple enough, just spending a little time fiddle farting around but at least you'll know for future reference! :)
WOW thanks...
Timberwolf explains the flutter method of blade tensioning where you tighten till you get blade flutter and then tighten just till the blade flutter dissapears.
gww
x2 what gww said. I end up between 2100 and 2300 psi when I do the flutter test, just about where they say it should be for my blades and mill. It seems to work good for me in my situation!
Well I got off to a good start extending my bed today.
My total cut lenght will be 26 feet 3 inches.
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Cool! I need a longer mill too. Won't be happening for a while.
Long logs are h.e.a.v.y (er) :o
I got help...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Log_lifter.JPG)
There ya go! smiley_thumbsup
I had a monster black cherry last week I slabbed up 10/4 and had to use the hoe to turn it 90° for first cut. Liked to have rolled the mill over. Pulled the mill off the rocks I have the jacks sitting on. That darn log was at least 3,000 lbs because I've moved cars around on the forks and this log was heavier. Even with the longest Logrite I wouldn't have been able to turn it.
Some say dogs are man's best friend. I say it's hydraulics. ;D
Between the rain drops I finished up the extension today.
I can now cut up to 26 feet 3 inches. That should hold me for awhile.
I also changed out the cable that pulls the carrage for a longer one.
I bought the clothesline cable for the rubber coating to help pull.
So far I really like the different cable. The old cable has sound to it.
The new cable runs silent.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cuts_up_to_26_feet_3_inches_with_extension.JPG)
Alright! Now you're cooking with gas! It'll open up some doors for you for sure.
It was a great day making lumber...
I got a question. Today while cutting I had the saw come to a screeching halt.
Something pinched the blade tight right in the middle of the log.
I needed to get a few wedges and drive the crack open to get the blade to move.
Would stress in the tree do this ? There was a big knot right where it happened.
After I got the blade loose I continued sawing with not other problems.
I never even had the blade slow down before let alone come to a fast stop like that.
Has this happened to any other people?
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I got the big one loaded and ready to cut....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03143.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03144.JPG)
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03152.JPG)
An easy way to get your logs to MOVE......
Second picture I welded in the handle and welded on a longer up/down leaver.
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The big one is cut....
Mill working great...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc03156.jpg)
K
your jack ideal is interesting. Your pictures are great as always. I don't know on the blade suddenly stopping. The only time I had that happen was when the blade guide touched the log and the log was lose enough to shift further into the guide. Everything stoped and my belt broke immediatly. How close are your guides to your log? Did your guide freeze up for a minute? Did you have a dog high enough to touch a guide?" Could a wood chip have gotten between the guide and blade?
It is cool when things work well and I am sure you are very proud and with good reason.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: gww on June 29, 2015, 10:52:22 PM
K
your jack ideal is interesting. Your pictures are great as always. I don't know on the blade suddenly stopping. The only time I had that happen was when the blade guide touched the log and the log was lose enough to shift further into the guide. Everything stoped and my belt broke immediatly. How close are your guides to your log? Did your guide freeze up for a minute? Did you have a dog high enough to touch a guide?" Could a wood chip have gotten between the guide and blade?
It is cool when things work well and I am sure you are very proud and with good reason.
Cheers
gww
No guide problem... It was the log pinching the blade. I had to drive two wedges one in from each side of the log to get my blade free. I though I was going to have to saw the chunk of wood off to get my blade out. It was really stuck. Log revenge shark bite. Wish I had a video of it when it happened.
Wow... Things add up....
Everything else I had from facrory clean ups over the years.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Total_cost_sawmill_build~0.jpg)
Yes they do add up. But much cheaper than buying one. Good job.
Nice pics, thanks for taking the time to post them. Looks like you're on your way and doing well!
I've never had or seen a blade get pinched and stopped like that but anything is possible, and it clearly happened to you! All sorts of strange and unusual things happen when milling. I would be inclined to think that the blade that pinched didn't have enough set to the teeth if tension in a log stopped the blade like that. Your blade could have heated up to the point of wadding up in the cut enough that it stopped but didn't break. For me what worked was around .030 set for softwood and around .020 set for hardwood. You can saw hardwood with .030 but it takes a lot more power and more sawdust is left on the boards. Cutting softwood with a .020 usually ends up bad with wavy cuts and a hot blade with pitch buildup. I generally nowadays just set at around .025 - .027 for everything and have had good luck with this. It simplifies my blade stock.
Next year with tax returns I'll have to fab up an extension for my mill. I can cut just over 17' now with a lot of messing around (it's hard milling at the maximum because of clearance issues all the time) but I'd like to be able to cut at least 24' if needed. It'll open up a niche for me and I could charge accordingly because I'd have the longest mill around.
Yea it came screeching to a stop real fast. It first i thought something broke.
The v-belts started smoking before I got to the stop switch.
After I got it loose I put it right back into the same slot to restart my cut and it went right through.
I still had the wedges in holding it open.
Why does this have to happen to a newbe...
Well no harm done.
Next project.... Log arch... Got the wheels and spindles today.
I hope you share pics with the log arch build. I really enjoy following your progress and seeing the pictures. You also seem to have good ideas and a sharp mind which I unfortunately don't possess. I hope to possibly get an idea or ten from a smarter feller!
Quote from: Ox on June 30, 2015, 06:39:46 PM
I hope you share pics with the log arch build. I really enjoy following your progress and seeing the pictures. You also seem to have good ideas and a sharp mind which I unfortunately don't possess. I hope to possibly get an idea or ten from a smarter feller!
Thanks.
Comets appreciated...
I will continue on this postings with my log arch unless someone thinks thats a bad idea...
K
QuoteI will continue on this postings with my log arch unless someone thinks thats a bad idea...
If you are willing to keep taking pictures and posting comments, I don't see how anybody would think it a bad ideal. I, like ox will be trying to get any ideal you give.
Good luck
gww
I think a seperate, new post for the log arch would be best. Many people interested in homemade log arches as well!
The only bad idea would be adding the log arch build to this sawmill build thread. Doing a search in later years,it would be hard to find for members.
Ok....
I will start a new post....
TKS
I loaded a big one today...
Hoping to mill it tomorrow.
It's the largest one on the mill so far...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03169.JPG)
That is a pretty nice and pretty strait long log, Hoping for a report after you cut it.
gww
Happy birthday, Kbeitz!
I know larger logs are great to saw but bad to handle with an all manual mill!
Perhaps someday in the future I'll have hydraulics using the Pineywoods tried and proven system.
Striate as a dive.... What can I say....
Smiling faces....
Working great.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03173.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03180.JPG)
I added the bearing adjuster to the carriage today.
When I was cutting I seen where the blade was trying to pull it's self into the wood.
Putting this Bearing adjuster on the carriage took up all the slack and now the blade does not pull in.
This was not causing a problem but the blade was like hunting and this stopped it dead.
There is one on each side of the carriage.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Slack_adajuster.jpg)
You are going to have to get a heavier axil. That thing has to be getting heavy. I would have never thought of that addition. Cool that it is cutting good and good pictures also.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: gww on July 02, 2015, 08:42:34 PM
You are going to have to get a heavier axil. That thing has to be getting heavy. I would have never thought of that addition. Cool that it is cutting good and good pictures also.
Cheers
gww
2340 lbs...
Hey, that comes out close to a dollar a pound. :D
gww
I have been busy moving my mill to a new spot.
It was getting in my way working on other projects.
It took me two weeks to dig the bank out.
Found some BIG rocks.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Rocks.JPG)
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Back to cutting... 22 feet long...
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Kbeitzy, would be real handy if you could throw slab and sawdust over the banking, would take you a long time to fill that baby. Frank C.
Slabs are being saw up for fire wood...
Sawdust will extend my bank... That was the plan.
I do want to make a bank railing to maybe stop a log just in case I forget to put up the log dogs some day...
I know those rocks you have pics of. I have a bunch of those too. BEDROCK! Mine is about 1.5 to 2 feet down. Looks just like someone poured concrete. I have more if you need some. ;D Our shallow bedrock causes us all sorts of drainage problems. We're on top of a hill where it flattens out and there's no place for the runoff to go. It just sits there on the bedrock. Winter frost heaves are worse too because the soil is saturated and moves more than other places. >:(
Kbeitz, I was just wondering how your controllers are working and holding up? I am still gathering parts for mine, and getting ready to order a couple of them. thanks
So far so good... I ordered extra because they was selling cheap.
I'm adding a remote to the carrage .
$19.80 on E-bay. Search for.
12Volt or 24Volt Wireless Winch Remote Control Handset for Winches Free Shipping12Volt
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Remote.jpg)
Looking good , That's a nice looking barn too!
Greetings Kebeitz, I just read this thread backwards, I'll get a large brandy and go the other way.
I'm impressed, good go!
Richard
Thanks....
I'm just a small time miller not like some people on this forum.
I'm retired and do it for fun but some people here make a living sawing lumber.
I'm in it mostly for myself. I like building things and i do both metal and wood projects.
It's hard work but I really enjoy it and I have learned a lot on this forum.
I really enjoyed the thread great photos, yours and valley Ranch plus Ox's and gnb and others helpful input just using this thread a couple others a person would not have to have plan to build a band mill.
First reply but longtime retired reader and hope to complete a build on a large all steel circle saw and smaller trailer mounted all metal Belsaw. thanks again and keep it up.
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Iwawoodwork. 8)
Iwawoodwork greetings, Just followed Magicman here, Let me give you welcome also. Be sure to post pictures, while working on that saw you mentioned.
Thanks Richard
Ok... Need some help....
I'm going to brake down and order some new blades. I got some real nice logs to cut and I want to do it right.
I think I want to buy Kasco blades. Thats the ones that most people are bragging about.
What I need is a 149" or 150" blade and that not a standard size.
So I need to order 15 custom blades .
What I want to order is 149" or 150" x 1.25 .045 1tpi. but my hook angle is what I want help with.
I'm powering with a Honda 13hp engine. Should I go with 7 deg or 10 deg hook angle ?
Is 7 deg to much for 13 hp ?
Between the two, I think I would go with a 10
I have a 13hp honda
I like the 7 s for all milling hard and soft
Jim/Bruno
I also have a 13hp and I've got the sharpener set at 7°. I've tried 4°, and 10° is how the blades come. The 13hp seems to not care much about tooth angles. This is where manual mills excel because you can feel if you're cutting well or not as you push the head through the log. I plan on doing a lot more milling with 4° this next summer. I've heard slower but flatter. It was slower and flatter for me. Might be worth it just to eliminate as much wavy lumber as possible. I have a lot of red pine to mill up.
I think you'll be just fine with 7° judging from my experience with them. :)
Kasco will make them any length you need .
They did that for my mill .
Jim/Bruno
Kbietz,
How do you like your carriage drive. Specifically the cable system you use. Any slipping, binding, abnormal wear?
Quote from: DMcCoy on December 04, 2015, 09:32:05 AM
Kbietz,
How do you like your carriage drive. Specifically the cable system you use. Any slipping, binding, abnormal wear?
I don't have anything to compare it with. This is the only mill I ever had.
But to me it works just fine. I tried using the rubber covered cable but the rubber coating fell off.
But it kept working fine. Does it slip ? yes and I'm glad it does.
It only slips when i do something dumb like putting a log dog to high or leaving a tool on the track.
If it did not slip I'm sure it would blow a fuse or brake something.
I keep watching for cable wear but so far none. To day is the first problem I had with it.
After I cut my board I send the carriage home with out me watching it.
When I went to cut another board it would not move.
I tracked the problem down to a bad relay. It was burned up. The problem was
that I have spring loaded safety stop switches at each end. A chunk of bark got under
one of my track wheels and was sliding along with the carriage. It slowed it down enough
that when it got to the safety stop switch it was not pushing it hard enough.
So it was cycling the switch on and off many times a second burning the relay up.
Break downs suck but I am sure you like your system better then you would like pushing mine.
When you get your new blades to compare to the old, I hope for a report. I find the brand new blades cut a bit better then the ones I am milking but it doesn't seem to last that long before needing touched. The ones I have been touching seem to get to a point were touching isn't near as effective. I still try to milk the old ones when I have time and only use the new when I am on a project and need stuff done fast. I lose a lot of boards when milking old blades that I might not have lost if using new. Even so, I mostly keep some new for emergencys.
Just throwing my ideals out there, not saying they are good ideals.
Cheers
gww
Thank you for the feed back. I think I will skip the idea of dual cables and stick with a single.
Little pieces of stuff can cause more problems.
You could also use roller chain and sprockets...
I was wondering why you didn't use a chain and sprocket since cable systems seem to be somewhat problematic. Cost?
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on December 05, 2015, 08:42:56 AM
I was wondering why you didn't use a chain and sprocket since cable systems seem to be somewhat problematic. Cost?
I knew nothing when I built this mill. It's all new to me.
But I'm happy with the cable setup. Like I said I like the slip when the carrage head hits
something and it comes to a stop. I guess a slip clutch could be used with roller chain.
So far the only thing I would change on my mill is that I would have made it bigger.
:D Bigger and more power are the two things a lot of mill owners wish for. Me included, sometimes.
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 05, 2015, 08:18:25 AM
You could also use roller chain and sprockets...
Yabut - I have cable, can sit on a nickle and swing my legs...
Added another rule to my mill...
I allready had the rule in the first picture for sizeing my boards but I added the rule in the second
picture to tell me what I got left in the log from the carrage up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cooks_rule~0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Rule_from_the_carrage_up.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Rule_from_the_carrage_up_2.jpg)
It sure make it so much easyer when edging. I take a tape measure and check the lowest spot on the
board to be edged and then set the mill head to the same with this new rule
Kbeitz I like your measuring system, are they magnetic and where did you get them?
Quote from: dean herring on December 28, 2015, 08:00:00 PM
Kbeitz I like your measuring system, are they magnetic and where did you get them?
E-bay for the stick on small one and Cooks for the magnetic large one
Thanks kbeitz .
I like the idea of the numbers starting at the top, seems like it would be easier to figure next cut. Adding is a lot easier than subtracting for me. My tk 1600 has the numbers starting at the bottom and it takes to long to make next cut and get it right. Does timberking have a magnetic log scale with numbers starting at the top marked off in 1/8" increments.
Okay, first an old saying, every time I questioned WHY, my father said, It's not for you to question WHY, but to do or die. :D ??? So WHY do people still go to the extreme of figuring out the next cut by adding in their head or consulting a cheat sheet when their are QUARTER scales with 4/4,5/4,6/4 and 8/8 scales to be had for cheap. IMHO just add one of the QUARTER decals such a WM part # S11774 to your mill and free your mind to think about the rest of the sawing operation, like not running the blade into the back stop. ??? ???
Here is is the 10th of January and it was 40f in Pa.
So I thought I would like to run the mill and cut up some hemlock.
About half way through the second log the clouds cut loose.
Man did I get wet...
Here on the western mountains, we have a lot of snow and it's cold. I was working with the drill press today but after a couple hours I headed in.
Quote from: valley ranch on January 10, 2016, 07:56:30 PM
Here on the western mountains, we have a lot of snow and it's cold. I was working with the drill press today but after a couple hours I headed in.
It just seems that the snow and cold doesnt mix with the word desert.
How do you do it ?
K
How would I know which pully clutch I might buy for my mill? Also if a guy was looking for one from salvage, what types of machines would be using them? 1 inch shaft on the motor.
Thanks
gww
Your best bet is to search E-bay for "engine clutch 1""
most sellers post up to what HP they cover.
Lots of different kinds of machinery takes Centrifugal Clutches.
I would also try to get one that take a double belt.
even if you don't use two belts you could put and alternator on later with the other belt.
The best place I found for new electric clutches was from "discount starter & alternator" If you are looking for salvaged ones they are common on higher end riding lawn mowers to engage the blade.
k and joe
I don't know if I need one, I don't mind low tech. I do know I don't want to spend real money on something that doesn't work. I will check e-bay and joe, thanks for the lawnmower tip. I will call my uncle as playing with old riding mowers is his game.
Thanks
gww
For safety reasons I would not want a mill without a clutch.
After every cut i idle down before removing my boards.
I sure would not want the blade turning while i was anywhere around it.
K
I actually kill my motor at the end of every cut. Restart to begin the next cut.
gww
Wow... Thats a lot of starting and stopping.
When I make my first cuts I throttle down at the end and tell the carriage to return home.
While its returning I can carry the slab over to the swing saw and chop it into fire wood
before the carriage gets back. Then i flip the log and cut again.
Are you using electric start ?
K
QuoteAre you using electric start ?
Nope, been pull starting, probly why the rope finaly broke. The new motor I ordered has electric start and in the reviews for the motor, it might be one of the weak spots. I am sure I will find out.
You have a pretty good set up that probly saves some time. I move the board then pull the carrage back then do any log minipulations and lower for the next cut and then start the engine and cut.
My mill is compleetly manual. When the motor is on the blade turns. Even when I had an idler pully that I would squeeze to start the blade turning, I always ended up killing the motor cause I am slow enough in my work habits that I would make a cut, then look the board over and maby measure the thickness, then sit and smoke a cigerret, take a drink of coffee, think about what I just did, then think about what I was going to do next, then get up and pull the rope and make another cut.
If I was faster it would be nice to leave the motor running but I got in such a habit of killing it and looking for problims in the beginning that I really didn't notice it much. After I got rid of the idle pully cause I put the jack shaft on to slow the blade down and never worried about the idle pully during that work, I ended up with direct drive and killing the engine was no longer by choice. It had to be done.
I don't even mind as long as I get good boards though better would be better. I guess I have to decide if it is $100 better or if I am ok now. If I wanted to go whole hog, I could spend $300 to $500 more and get a three to one reducer clutch and get rid of the jack shaft, have a single belt and the proper blade speed.
I didn't mind what I had and the only reason I am even thinking of any changes is cause my motor got bad enough I didn't want to screw with it. I can't build enough raised bed gardens to justify the money I am spending. Yet I am a bit jelouse of the better mills like yours.
When I run out of these junk logs I am cutting now it will be even harder to mill so going to far if I don't want to make it a job will only be for my pride but not really make sense for my needs.
I did go to ebay and it looks like for $98 I could get one that will barily fit my new motor if I decide to go that rout. I probly wont cause if the motor gets here and it is warm enough, I will probly try to mount it and will have to fabricate the mounting plate and if it works good enough, I will never get to it.
Sorry to take this much of you build thread and thanks for your help.
gww
Hey I enjoyed the chat...
If you got to redo your mounting plate why make one the slides.
This would be your clutch and should work well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/sliding_plate.jpg)
I made one like that as a modification last year, works great; no slipping belts anymore. I also changed to double v-groove pulleys.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31167/DSC_2150.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31167/DSC_2174.jpg)
If you added a simple turnbuckle you could adjust it so it locked over center to keep it engaged even! Sliding engine plates are the ultimate in simplicity and strength. In fact, I had an old 2 wheel walk behind tractor that did this to engage the drive.
On one hand it looks simple but on the other hand when I look at the pictures of you guys mills, I see that you are all much better fabricators then I am. I thought the guy that had the system where he just lowered the motor on one side and that is what tightened his belt was cool also. I started with a idle pully and used the tiller cable on the handle to tighten the belt and that worked and was pretty simple also but I got in a hurry cause I wanted to cut boards when I added the jack shaft plus the tiller idle pully set up was pretty light duty.
I am not sure what I will end up with now. I love to collect ideals of things I might be able to do. I usually on any project, go out with a general ideal of things I might do and then just start doing it. I will take the old motor off and see how far the plate is off compared to the new motors and then will look at all the stuff I have laying around and from memory of what dad has laying around and will start trying to cob it together. I really dislike the weakness of my jack shaft system and really liked the simplicity of some kind of direct drive.
What did you guys think of the running the belt on the actual tire that the band is on? Say a 6 inch pully on the motor to a 20.5 inch tire?
I will look around to day and see what I have that might work for a sliding motor mount. I am always scared of changes cause they some times create problims that I hadn't thought of. I know when I built my home made drive pully, it worked better when it was direct drive but when I added the jack shaft, it had to be perfectly aligned or I had terible belt issues. I also had to live with some belt slipping to get it to work as good as it was going to. I aint mad cause I have cut a lot of boards. I am scared to touch things though.
I really thank you guys and expecially you K for not being put off that I have stolen this much of your build thread. I came here cause it was the easiest way to get advice from someone I knew could help.
Thanks
gww
Ps Roghair, That looks like a really well built mill.
gww, thanks. You might indeed consider to pivot the whole motor or work with an idler pulley as you described.
I think you are in good hands with Kbeitz from what I read here !!
Kbeitz, are you building a new mill? I remember I read that somewhere in your posts ...?
You could just put the engine on a hinge. Tip it so the belt loosens up and put a wedge under it. Remove the wedge and the engine tips and tightens up the belt.
Or just the opposite. Put the wedge in to tighten the belt and pull it out to loosen it. I have had several pieces of homemade equipment that use that method for a clutch
Quote from: roghair on January 31, 2016, 12:12:03 PM
gww, thanks. You might indeed consider to pivot the whole motor or work with an idler pulley as you described.
I think you are in good hands with Kbeitz from what I read here !!
Kbeitz, are you building a new mill? I remember I read that somewhere in your posts ...?
I'm building a new vertital band saw thats big enough to be a mill.
Quote from: gww on January 31, 2016, 10:54:45 AM
On one hand it looks simple but on the other hand when I look at the pictures of you guys mills, I see that you are all much better fabricators then I am. I thought the guy that had the system where he just lowered the motor on one side and that is what tightened his belt was cool also. I started with a idle pully and used the tiller cable on the handle to tighten the belt and that worked and was pretty simple also but I got in a hurry cause I wanted to cut boards when I added the jack shaft plus the tiller idle pully set up was pretty light duty.
I am not sure what I will end up with now. I love to collect ideals of things I might be able to do. I usually on any project, go out with a general ideal of things I might do and then just start doing it. I will take the old motor off and see how far the plate is off compared to the new motors and then will look at all the stuff I have laying around and from memory of what dad has laying around and will start trying to cob it together. I really dislike the weakness of my jack shaft system and really liked the simplicity of some kind of direct drive.
What did you guys think of the running the belt on the actual tire that the band is on? Say a 6 inch pully on the motor to a 20.5 inch tire?
I will look around to day and see what I have that might work for a sliding motor mount. I am always scared of changes cause they some times create problims that I hadn't thought of. I know when I built my home made drive pully, it worked better when it was direct drive but when I added the jack shaft, it had to be perfectly aligned or I had terible belt issues. I also had to live with some belt slipping to get it to work as good as it was going to. I aint mad cause I have cut a lot of boards. I am scared to touch things though.
I really thank you guys and expecially you K for not being put off that I have stolen this much of your build thread. I came here cause it was the easiest way to get advice from someone I knew could help.
Thanks
gww
Ps Roghair, That looks like a really well built mill.
Glad to help out...
Very good thread , just read it end to end . Still collecting bits for my mill and getting closer to buying the last parts and soon to be building .Very professional looking mill K . I will have some questions sooner than later !
Hello Kbeitz: how are your PWM boards holding up? I was looking at getting one to control a 12vdc gearmotor...
I'm real happy with them and the price was right.
I bought three extra for the future if I will ever need them.
I don't know how they can sell them so cheap.
The voltage range is so great that they could be used for many things.
Good to hear... I think I'll try one. Thanks!
I was thinking of using a single 2PDT switch to control fwd and reverse: NC contacts of relay would power the PWM controller for speed control in the forward direction; and energizing the relay would provide full voltage to the motor in the reverse direction for full speed reverse at all times. Two push buttons (PB) would control the circuit: 1 NO PB for turning on power to the PWM board for forward speed, and 1 NO PB to energize the relay for reverse. What do you think? I looked through this thread and you are using two DPDT relays for directional control.
I see on the board the 2-wire input and the 3-wire input both go to the POT. Do you think it's possible to interface a PB across the 2-wire input and still use the existing POT for speed control?
I used two relays because I want to be able to control my speeds both ways.
One thing you need to watch for with what your wanting to do is with only one relay
you might blow the PWM controller by letting it go into reverse instantly.
The motor will still be spinning in the opposite direction putting feed back to the PWM controller.
The amp draw will be real high until the motor get stopped and running the other way.
I think you will find that you will need to control your speed both ways.
If you ever get your blade stuck in a log you would not want your carriage to run
wide open when trying to back out. I also put limit switches to stop the carriage at the ends of travel.
I you do this you need a spring loaded cushion stop at both ends.
I used a single 2PDT toggle switch to work my relays but I just bought a drum switch to replace that.
I dont think the toggle switch can take the work load I'm giving it and have it last very long.
Kbeitz, thanks for the info. May I ask you how you wired up the two DPDT relays and the PWM controller? Does the POT zero in the center and turning it to the left is one direction and turning to the right the opposite motor direction? I am ready to order the board, I am just unsure if I need two boards (one for fwd and a second for reverse). Thanks.
I use one board for both foward and reverse and another board for my up and down.
Pot zeros all the way CCW and wide open CW.
This is the only drawing I made up and it's made with a fast return switch.
I ended up not doing that. I just turn the pot to go faster and I have a mark to put it back
to my sawing speed. I ran out of room in the first box so I now have two.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wireing_~3.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Box_one.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Box_two.JPG)
My Lord Almighty, that's somethin' fierce impressive for a homemade mill build. I'm still amazed. Makes me a little embarrassed about my simple all manual mill. But following my creed (K.I.S.S.) I'm also relieved with the simplicity. When I get tired of doing everything by hand I might get around to motorizing some basic functions like feed and raise/lower.
Thanks for being so willing to share, Kbeitz. Your knowledge is a gold mine for some of us.
Quote from: Ox on February 13, 2016, 09:10:30 AM
My Lord Almighty, that's somethin' fierce impressive for a homemade mill build. I'm still amazed. Makes me a little embarrassed about my simple all manual mill. But following my creed (K.I.S.S.) I'm also relieved with the simplicity. When I get tired of doing everything by hand I might get around to motorizing some basic functions like feed and raise/lower.
Thanks for being so willing to share, Kbeitz. Your knowledge is a gold mine for some of us.
Glad to help... Anytime...
I just made this simple drawing up for one toggle switch using two relays for forward and reverse.
This might be able to be done with one relay but the motor would slam into the other direction.
Using two relays gives the motor time to stop before going the other way.
Anyone is welcome to copy and use it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Toggle_switch_foward_reverse_relay~0.jpg)
Hi Kbeitz, I agree with you, and I spoke with an electrical engineering and he echoed your sentiment that using one relay is no good. (Apparently the best option is to do the polarity switch on the PWN board and use no relays but I couldn't find any on ebay). I just ordered one of the PWM boards and a 60amp reversible drum switch. We'll see how it all goes... that is when ebay gets the order to my shop in a months time haha! 12vdc head drive will only be temporary for me anyways as once I've figured speeds out I will buy an appropriate hyd motor to do the job.
Thanks for the help and I'll be in touch.
Here is another way thats cheap to do it....
The toggle switch will let it come to a stop when centered.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Winch_switch_wiring~1.jpg)
I cut up some very nice white pine today. 53º today. Pretty good for Feburary.
I think this is the first live tree i cut. Everything else up to now has been dead standing timber.
Saw is working great. Still useing junkyard blades. I have yet to buy a new blade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03966.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03972.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03970.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03978.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03982.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03987.JPG)
Gah so jealous!
Spent the weekend putting a new carrying beam in the ol farmhose...
I did walk by the sawmill project once...
That is certainly is a nice big ol' whitey inn'it? Most white pine around this hill are atrocious looking gnarly things that aren't fit for even a bonfire.
Ok... I found my limit... It was all my tractor coud do to get this log on the mill.
It's right around 26-27" dia. You can see that I have no extra room.
I had to take a large slab off the top to start. My mill would not go up any higher.
I will recut the slab to get a few more boards out of it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04004.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04006.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04007.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04005.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04013.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04014.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04015.JPG)
Yep, she's a good big'un 8) smiley_clapping whiteflag_smiley smiley_bouncing_pinky smiley_blue_bounce smiley_bounce
One one of my cuts today I seen a bit of a wave. So I sharpened my blade and
fixed my mistake. I then made a cut to fix my wave. I made a cut so small the
wood was almost clear when holding it up to the light. You could bend it around
into almost a full circle with out breaking it. It was a hard day.
Them big ones really take it out on a fella when there aren't hydraulics for handling. How do you like your turner? Any problems with it? Anything you'd do different? It seems like it would be easier than lumping logs with a cant hook.
Quote from: Ox on March 02, 2016, 08:28:06 PM
Them big ones really take it out on a fella when there aren't hydraulics for handling. How do you like your turner? Any problems with it? Anything you'd do different? It seems like it would be easier than lumping logs with a cant hook.
I would need a bigger cant hook for these logs.
My turner works great. The only inprovement I would do is an electric winch with a
remote and maybe two wheels on my log dogs to help with the roll...
Nice pictures, good to see!
Congrats on the build...Nice Job!
An electric winch would be stellar. I'm keen on trying out the wireless winches. It sure would be handy if they work OK and if they're reliable. They sell them every day so there must be something good there...
I like your way of thinking. I really enjoy reading and seeing what you're up to and have done.
Hey Kbeitz... Awhile back you had talked about actually BUYING blades...I've been wondering if you ever did, and how'd it work out? Maybe I missed the update, if you made one...
I'm still using my junkyard blades. I have been running the saw every day and cutting everything
from oak to white pine. I do want to buy some new ones just to see if there is a difference from
what I'm using. My saw is working so well with what I have that I just haven't taking the time
to buy any. I bet I got enough to last me two years with all the blades I have and I'm betting
by that time more will show up at the junkyard. I can here the laughter form people reading
my post thinking how small time and cheap I must be. But with the little money it took me to
build my mill and the little money it's taking me to keep sawing I'm sure ending up with a lot
of lumber.So far the only new thing I've needed was 3 sets of belts and gas and oil.
I'm sure someday I will buy a new blade to try, but I'm just to busy now.
No,i am not laughing,just shaking my head-i know where most of the bands came from and if he shot them out,they are junk....You really need to bite the bullet and order a box of bands....Also,would love to see vid.of your mill milling a log???
If junkyard blades will serve a person with minimal sawing, then I say good for him. They would seriously fall by the wayside if doing any kind of production sawing.
Buddy, I'm certainly not laughing. Look what you created with such little cash output. It's a beautiful and amazing thing. It deserves respect and I'm sure it and you gets that respect. If anybody laughs at it, I'm pretty sure that I wouldn't want to be friends with that person anyway! Nobody has laughed at you to my knowledge.
The only thing I find truly amazing is how you get away with such little set in your blades. I'll have to try this on one of my striked blades someday. You may be on to something. Because I set now to, say, .025 each side. This is .025 from the outside of the blade, not from the center. If the blade is .042, half of that is .021. .021 plus .025 equals .046. .046 plus .046 equals .092. .092 kerf for a .042 blade? Seems quite excessive. If I was to set at .010 like you, this would be .021 plus .010 which equals .031. .031 plus .031 equals .062. .062 kerf for a .042 thick blade makes more sense.
Edit: P.S. I wonder what the amount of "sponginess" there is in the wood fibers. I realize softwood will sponge more than hardwood which is why more set is recommended for softwood milling. Seems like if you could get lucky enough to get the perfect set where the body of the blade is actually touching the wood slightly (without heating up enough to cause problems) after the teeth were done cutting, the wood would actually help stabilize the blade like a sandwich type blade guide system. Just kinda wondering aloud...
York
replie number 206 of this thread has a vidio of K's mill in action. Hope this helps.
gww
Here is the only video I made. It was my very first cut and I was running it very slow.
I had no idea what my mill could do. I really do need to make another vodeo to show
what it can really do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu7QwF3JjGw&index=2&list=PLPmdHS4aWQkarJdxyJX_pwpR0Rtv7vGV_
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 04, 2016, 10:38:01 PM
I can here the laughter form people reading my post thinking how small time and cheap I must be.
The thing (well, one of the "things") about the Forestry Forum is that there is an extreme range of people here. They range from folks like you Kbeitz, who make a mill out of what is available to them and use it for fun and personal use, and there are people who run million dollar operations with the latest and greatest new equipment and technology. I wouldn't expect them to see eye to eye.
So, I don't laugh at you one bit for using junkyard blades. I'm a scrounger and a cobbler sometimes too. Sometimes I buy the best that I can afford. It all depends on which I have more of at the moment, time or money.
I'm sure plenty of folks think trying to mill with second hand blades and dremel tool are a fools errand. If it works for you I say go for it. I'll stick with what works for me.
Nice, like your Bridgeport too. I think that's what I saw you using.
Quote from: valley ranch on March 05, 2016, 07:57:00 PM
Nice, like your Bridgeport too. I think that's what I saw you using.
Yea that an old J-head Bridgeport. I think that it will be in my basement until the day I die.
I took it apart in little peaces and carried it down my steps and put it back together again.
I found out some of the small parts wasn't so small.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/J-head_Bridgeport.jpg)
Then it wasnt easy getting this into my basment eather...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/1642_Lathe~0.jpg)
Nice job, 8) 8) 8)
Thank you! I appreciate the positive feedback. It keeps me going.
Sure is a great forum with a lot of great people.
Your machinery.............me likey. :laugh:
Kbeitz, did you ever find a DPDT drum switch? I am looking and all I seem to be finding are drum switches that are maintained... I am looking for a spring return (safer I think). Any success?
Quote from: Rougespear on March 06, 2016, 10:31:14 AM
Kbeitz, did you ever find a DPDT drum switch? I am looking and all I seem to be finding are drum switches that are maintained... I am looking for a spring return (safer I think). Any success?
What I ended up useing was the reversing drum switch, But I still needed to run the wires from that
to two relays for F/R. I know they make what your looling for but none was for sale on E-bay when
I was looking.
Today I heard the death click click click of the blade.
I got the mill stopped before the blade broke.
A little sliver soder and I was back to work.
I just dint think the blade was done working yet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04018.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04019~0.jpg)
I had some real nice wide white pine boards that I wanted to save every inch that I could.
So I hooked up my board holder and went to sawing. Poor mans edger.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04027.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04020.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04026.JPG)
That's a good idea for edging single boards. I've said it once and I'll say it again - I wish I had your mind.
Quote from: Ox on March 06, 2016, 05:54:28 PM
That's a good idea for edging single boards. I've said it once and I'll say it again - I wish I had your mind.
In about 20 more years it could be up for sale....
I probably wont be needing it anymore.
That'll be a good buy for someone. Not me, though. In 20 years I expect to be pretty much crippled. I'm around halfway there now. Degenerative spine disease. It's a bad feeling having a mind that says "let's go!" and a body that says "let's not! I'll make you hurt enough where you can't go anywhere!" >:(
I enjoy reading and seeing your projects.
Cut up some Red Oak logs today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Red_oak_log.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Red_oak.JPG)
Some nice oak there...
I'd like a chance at in 20.
That red oak is amazing stuff. I remember cutting tree tops the loggers left in the woods. Looked rotten after 10 years or so, but it was just the sapwood that was rotted. The heartwood was just as good as new. Looks real nice, Kbeitz. Your mill makes nice lumber.
Thanks... I'm real happy with it so far. Today I was cutting what I was told was cherry. After making my
first cuts I'm not sure it is cherry. I will post some pictures and maybe learn a thing or two.
I have been very lightly touching up or sharping my blades with my dremel after about every 6 logs.
I just touch the tooth for a sec. Since I started this I have not had a wave cut in anything.
I don't need to remove my blade from the saw to do this and it only take about 10 min to do.
I've made more sawdust in the last month than I've made in my lifetime. Still learning...
Whats the normal for how many logs between sharpings ? I know it depends on size and kind but
just approximately.
I don't know normal but have read blade needs sharpened at two hours of cutting in several places.
Cheers
gww
I don't think there is a normal. There's just so many variables it's impossible to give a number. I saw until I notice some extra resistance to my push. Then I'll push a little harder for awhile until I notice some slight waves. Then I'll pull the blade. This can be anywhere from 2 to 8 logs or so. Some logs are just dirtier than others and it really affects how long the blade stays sharp. I'm too lazy to take the time to clean each log and I have sharpening equipment, so I feel fortunate to be able to do it this way. If I was sawing for customers, I'd pull blades earlier but since it's just for me, it doesn't matter! I'm not too picky - it's rough cut after all.
Quote from: Ox on March 10, 2016, 06:54:21 PM
I don't think there is a normal. There's just so many variables it's impossible to give a number. I saw until I notice some extra resistance to my push. Then I'll push a little harder for awhile until I notice some slight waves. Then I'll pull the blade. This can be anywhere from 2 to 8 logs or so. Some logs are just dirtier than others and it really affects how long the blade stays sharp. I'm too lazy to take the time to clean each log and I have sharpening equipment, so I feel fortunate to be able to do it this way. If I was sawing for customers, I'd pull blades earlier but since it's just for me, it doesn't matter! I'm not too picky - it's rough cut after all.
Wow... Every two logs.... Thats seems like a lot...
QuoteWow... Every two logs.... Thats seems like a lot...
I don't believe I have ever got six logs cut with out having to touch up the blades I am using. My logs are small also. My mill probly has issues that yours doesn't and I was using a nine horse motor but I dream of getting six logs inbetween having to sharpen. I do touch them up on the mill as you do.
gww
When I only got two logs it was when sawing long-seasoned black locust and they were muddy. If it was dark I'm sure I would have seen a spark or ten. But, because it happened that one time I have to mention it because the truth is warranted, no matter how small. :)
Good to hear from you again, gww.
ox
Thanks, I still watch what you post most times though lots of times I only have energy to look at the threads I have posted on already. I just don't always type something cause typing is hard and I don't always want everybody to know how little I know. :laugh: Hope you are well.
gww
Anyone have a blade crack from the back ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04073.JPG)
Time to get the silver solder out... First clean it with a dremel...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04074.JPG)
Then flux it...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04075.JPG)
Then solder it...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04076.jpg)
Then grind off any high spots...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04077.JPG)
Flip the blade over and do the other side...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04078.JPG)
Flux again...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04079.JPG)
Solder again...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04080.JPG)
Grind again...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04081.jpg)
Back on the mill...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04082.JPG)
So far I got another 4 hours run time on the repaired blade. I timed it and it took me 3o min to
take the blade off and solder it and remount it back on the saw.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04083.JPG)
Is it a special solder you use, or a brazing rod of some sort? I'm intrigued and might have to give this a try. I have several busted blades with good tooth life left in them.
Quote from: Ox on March 16, 2016, 07:38:15 PM
Is it a special solder you use, or a brazing rod of some sort? I'm intrigued and might have to give this a try. I have several busted blades with good tooth life left in them.
It's silver solder made just for bandsaw blades... I use Mapp gas for the heat.
Sure-Splice Repairs band saw blades. Silver solder alloy selected specially for
band saw blade splicing application has 30,000 psi tensile strength
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Repair_jig_3~2.JPG)
Thanks for taking the time to show all your pictures and answering questions. :P
K
From ox
QuoteThanks for taking the time to show all your pictures and answering questions.
From me
DITTO
gww
Glad I can help.
Us small timers need all the help we can get...
I don't feel like the lone ranger... ;)
I don't think I have anything I could share with you, however. You seem quite smart.
Ol gww, he says he isn't very smart but he's set up his own power system grid and built his own mill from scrap. You can't be dumb and be able to do that! Hear me, gww? :D
Ox
I also dropped a tree on a power line and the tree went right where I wanted it to. I don't know about smart but sometimes I am lucky and things just work out.
K I realize this is not "my" build thread but wanted some to know that I have seemed to have fixed my belt slipping issue. I took a small metal electic fence pole and bent it around the wheel/pully and spot welded it. I then built up that side with $20 worth of liquid weld. I have wanted to try this since building the mill but was scared to cause I didn't think I could reverse it if I screwed it up. It is working great and I will add it to my build thread if I can ever get my camera to work good enough.
I also put a new blade on. I cut two and 1/2 logs and was still cutting fair with no wave and just having to push a little harder. I then used k's ideal with a very small touch with the dreamal and it cut better then when it was new. I only have did one log after touching the blade but will have to probly touch it pretty often if history holds true. It was not cutting wavy and now that I have more horse power and no belt slipping, my intention was to cut untill I got wave and then report how many logs it cut to you but I couldn't make myself do it cause it cuts so fast if I just dreamel the blade a bit.
Anyway, Thanks for your post and pictures K. Ox, thank you for your always trying to make me feel right (even if you are wrong :laugh:).
Cheers
gww
PS K, I really like when you post things like the silver solder. I look for ways to try and use the things I already have cause I am retired and not trying to make a living with my mill and have more time then I have a willingness to spend money. I may never use it but it is the type of thing I like to know incase I want to use it.
GWW I think your doing great. We all make Boo boos and thats how we all learn.
When using the silver solder if you never did it before... Make sure you grind the band real clean
and make sure you use flux. I start by heating the band a little (you don't want to get it to hot)
Then I feed a little silver solder to the flame. When a drop of solder lands on the blade I keep my
heat on the drop and the blade. When the temp gets just right the drop will flow across the blade,
Thats the time to add more solder. When doing the flip side again don't get it to hot or your solder
will run off the bottom. Don't use more solder than you need. It's not cheap and you will just end up
grinding it off anyway. When I first started doing this I bought the torch setup that took two bottles.
One Map gas and the other oxygen. But I found out the the single tank setup with just the Map gas
does just fine.
K
Thanks for the tutorial.
gww
Yep - good class. I'll bet a dollar there's alot more than just a few people reading all of this and taking notes! Do you source your silver solder locally or online? Any particular brand that you like better than others?
gww - dropping a tree on the power lines? I got you beat. :D I had a locust flip up and over the loader bucket and land on my old trailer house. Caved in the living room ceiling. It was a tree that was ready to fall, leaning way over from the remnants of a hurricane that blew through here years ago. The wind was so strong I had to really lean into it to stay upright. Up here on the hill, the bedrock is real shallow and tree roots can't go down very far. This was all a blessing in disguise because I ended up with a nicer place with more room for my family. It's not glamorous, but it's functional and we like it for the most part.
I get my silver solder from E-bay.... But then again I buy almost everything from there...
It changes every week so you keep watchen...
Gotcha. Thanks. I myself use Amazon and Ebay as much as possible. Can't beat the prices.
On small items, I always look for free shipping.
gww
Wow.... Oak logs are just plane heavy...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/IMG_1425.jpg)
Had to get the big boy out...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/IMG_1426.jpg)
Gotta do whatcha gotta do. :)
Kb has his butt up in the air. :D
My dads kabota L3300 looked exactly the same today. I built an 8x10 shed out of mostly oak and loaded it on a trailer today. kobota on the back and 2000 lb winch on front and a whole bunch of one inch at a time. One corner of the shed did that to my kobota. K, I see you have more then one kobota. I have to honestly say that I abuse everything and the kobota has been good to me.
gww
Quote from: Magicman on March 18, 2016, 09:01:33 PM
Kb has his butt up in the air. :D
Yep...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/flying.jpg)
I went to an auction and bought this trailer. I park it beside my mill when sawing.
I'm making pallets that fits on top 3.5x8'. This make it really easy for me to load
each board as they come off the mill. when the traile is full I move to to the drying
shed and band it up and forklift the pallet off and move it back to the mill...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Image2~0.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04089.JPG)
I use an old manure spreader I rebuilt for the same purpose. That's a nice old wagon you got there.
I moved some more ground this week. I was running out of room to store my lumber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04140.JPG)
I also was making pallets to store my lumber on...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04134.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04139.JPG)
Next project is to build a few more firewood boxes. I got three filled up already and the woods pilling up on the ground.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04138.JPG)
Sometimes you dont get much out of a good lookin log...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04125.JPG)
Thanks for taking the time to post your pics. I'm sure I'm not the only one who enjoys looking at what you've accomplished. Nice looking operation you've got there, for sure.
I agree with ox on the picture thing. I find you have a very interest accumulation of differrent things always in the back ground that really keep the eye focused. You must be made of pure energy and tremendous amagination to have all the things going on that it seems you have going on.
I too am having real storage problims. Are the boards sitting there left uncovered for a quick project or do you put tin over them for long term storage? I have enough room in my lean too for two more logs and then I have to come up with some other way to store or use the boards. If I use them I will never get an air dried board.
Love your pictures
gww
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 03, 2016, 09:16:19 AM
Sometimes you dont get much out of a good lookin log...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04125.JPG)
Too bad you're so far away I have have a customer who wants all the hollow logs I can get him. Says he's going to make bear baiting stations out of them. ::)
Quote from: gww on April 03, 2016, 09:47:46 AM
I agree with ox on the picture thing. I find you have a very interest accumulation of differrent things always in the back ground that really keep the eye focused. You must be made of pure energy and tremendous amagination to have all the things going on that it seems you have going on.
I too am having real storage problims. Are the boards sitting there left uncovered for a quick project or do you put tin over them for long term storage? I have enough room in my lean too for two more logs and then I have to come up with some other way to store or use the boards. If I use them I will never get an air dried board.
Love your pictures
gww
The lumber was just moved there. Tin will be put on the week.
TKS.
Quote from: plowboyswr on April 03, 2016, 11:13:07 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 03, 2016, 09:16:19 AM
Sometimes you dont get much out of a good lookin log...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04125.JPG)
Too bad you're so far away I have have a customer who wants all the hollow logs I can get him. Says he's going to make bear baiting stations out of them. ::)
Going to try to make flower pots for the auction to sell.
We filled hollow rounds with soil and flowers for an outdoor wedding.It was e very nice touch and well received.
Kbeitz, Just want to say thank you for the information on the speed controller
your using on your sawmill and where to buy. I ordered one of them from a
distributer in Calif with a plastic cover. Paid a few more dollars but got it 3 days.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18700/IMG_0816.JPG)
_____________________________
Charles ... sling_shot
So far I'm very happy with my speed controllers.
They seem to be a tough unit at a great price.
I think K bought up the entire stock. I tried to order one to use on a handicap scooter...out of stock ::)
Pineywoods,...
Check some other dealers. I just looked and found them in stock.
Going to order another myself.
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 19, 2016, 04:56:21 PM
Here is another way thats cheap to do it....
The toggle switch will let it come to a stop when centered.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Winch_switch_wiring~1.jpg)
Looking at your build again and looking for ideas to replace the wheel chair controller I have. This post here by you, could this simple set up to work and control a wheel chair motor?
Yes that will work. But you wont have any speed control unless you add a control board.
Quote from: Slingshot on April 03, 2016, 08:08:00 PM
Kbeitz, Just want to say thank you for the information on the speed controller
your using on your sawmill and where to buy. I ordered one of them from a
distributer in Calif with a plastic cover. Paid a few more dollars but got it 3 days.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18700/IMG_0816.JPG)
_____________________________
Charles ... sling_shot
You have a link? Fixing to order and need it much faster then a slow boat from China.
Kbeitz, are those standard PWM motor controllers you're talking about for the wheelchair motors?
Quote from: btulloh on May 04, 2016, 08:30:01 AM
Kbeitz, are those standard PWM motor controllers you're talking about for the wheelchair motors?
They was made for R/C toys. I got around 200 hours on my mill using them with no problems.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DC_10-50V_60A_Motor_Speed_Control_PWM_HHO_RC_Controller_12V_24V_48V_3000W_zzz.jpg)
fishfighter, that supplier shows sold out on the controller with cover but
same supplier
shows in stock on same one without cover. Small shipping fee but comes
from Calif.
_________________________
Charles
Ya-Hoo....
Post 2000...
2000; even a blind hog finds an acorn!!!! :D
Good Job Mr. K..
got a link to the dealer in California for those controllers?
I'm tired of fighting to get a BIG log on my mill.
I started to build my log lifter today.
I need to make a trip to the junkyard for some 2" round stock.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04512.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1471711959)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04511.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1471712005)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04513.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1471712086)
I have junkyard envy, none of it is possible in my county.
Keep us updated K. DanG, wish I had a junkyard near by. :(
The junkyard is a big part of my life. I could not build half of the things
I do with out it. I picked up two things today. The first picture is a 1-5/8"
X 9 foot round shaft needed for the pivot point for the mill lift I'm building
and the second picture is a Press die shoe that I found that will be used
with my iron worker that I'm building...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/one_and_five_eights_cold_roll_round~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1471904536)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Press_die_shoe.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1471904571)
My county will not let me pick sliding door from the metal bin. I used sliding door glass for my shop windows, but in our landfill the only chance is you talk to the guy who is bringing it in and take it from him. Once it is dropped, county owns it.
But I was there when a man brought two waterlocked jet skis on a trailer for the scrap metal - next day I saw the trailer parked by county employee's house, haha.
But I found real solingen chef's knife in scrap metal and took it without asking :)
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 22, 2016, 06:23:19 PMthe second picture is a Press die shoe that I found that will be used with my iron worker that I'm building...
Holy cow, now you're building an iron worker? I'm so envious...
Hoping to build a power hammer here one of these days (after the sawmill and the shop with the wood from the sawmill)...
It would be about a 140 miles each way road trip, but I might take a trip to your junkyard! Maybe I could swing by and say hello. ;)
(Only half kidding..... )
Do you mind if I ask what you paid for that 1 5/8" shaft?
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on August 23, 2016, 05:49:15 PM
It would be about a 140 miles each way road trip, but I might take a trip to your junkyard! Maybe I could swing by and say hello. ;)
(Only half kidding..... )
Do you mind if I ask what you paid for that 1 5/8" shaft?
The shaft and the Press die shoe and a 12 volt electric garden tractor clutch
all for $20.00...
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 23, 2016, 08:15:40 PM
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on August 23, 2016, 05:49:15 PM
It would be about a 140 miles each way road trip, but I might take a trip to your junkyard! Maybe I could swing by and say hello. ;)
(Only half kidding..... )
Do you mind if I ask what you paid for that 1 5/8" shaft?
The shaft and the Press die shoe and a 12 volt electric garden tractor clutch
all for $20.00...
WOW! I'm making up a shopping list!!!
Hey guys, I think these would be a great cheap way to control some hydraulics on a home built mill. Not many left, for $200
Ebay link removed by Admin, refer to forum rules.
Started building my mill roof yesterday. The front will be all open with no post.
I have some very heavy duty lengths of steel tubing that will be buried even
with the ground. I have lots of welding to do. Full spans around 30-32 feet
by 10 or 12 feet. Drawing of the weldment is from the side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/New_roof.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477396484)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Mill_roof_metals.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477396664)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/New_roof~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477397549)
He don't build a cantilever mill, but he builds a cantilever building to put his mill in! This will be one of the more interesting threads to follow, I'm reckoning.
Let the welding begin...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04906.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477408349)
One down two to go...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/One_down_two_to_go.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477424930)
I like the design. Keep up the good work Kbeitz!
Quote from: Picky2016 on October 25, 2016, 06:56:38 PM
I like the design. Keep up the good work Kbeitz!
Hey... Thanks... you guys keep me going...
K
QuoteHey... Thanks... you guys keep me going...
You seem to always be going on your own. I do like to watch though.
gww
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 25, 2016, 03:49:13 PM
One down two to go...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/One_down_two_to_go.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477424930)
Looking good. Will you be using metal roofing?
Quote from: Czech_Made on October 26, 2016, 07:47:33 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 25, 2016, 03:49:13 PM
One down two to go...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/One_down_two_to_go.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477424930)
Looking good. Will you be using metal roofing?
Yes... it's light and I all ready have it.
Another junkyard find...
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 25, 2016, 07:58:01 AM
Started building my mill roof yesterday. The front will be all open with no post.
I have some very heavy duty lengths of steel tubing that will be buried even
with the ground. I have lots of welding to do. Full spans around 30-32 feet
by 10 or 12 feet. Drawing of the weldment is from the side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/New_roof.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477396484)
Are you sure you want to bury the steel? I know it might be a pain as a tripping hazard, but I wouldn't want it rusting. Maybe encase it in concrete? Then it would be more stable in high winds...
Are your upper braces going to be head bumpers . Hate to lose you to a broken head .
Quote from: ljohnsaw on October 26, 2016, 09:47:25 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 25, 2016, 07:58:01 AM
Started building my mill roof yesterday. The front will be all open with no post.
I have some very heavy duty lengths of steel tubing that will be buried even
with the ground. I have lots of welding to do. Full spans around 30-32 feet
by 10 or 12 feet. Drawing of the weldment is from the side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/New_roof.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477396484)
Are you sure you want to bury the steel? I know it might be a pain as a tripping hazard, but I wouldn't want it rusting. Maybe encase it in concrete? Then it would be more stable in high winds...
Put in concrete would be great. I don't have the $$$ for that at this time.
The tubing is 1/2" thick. I think it will last my lifetime.
Quote from: Gearbox on October 26, 2016, 10:48:34 AM
Are your upper braces going to be head bumpers . Hate to lose you to a broken head .
The upper braces will be behind and above the mill.
I would need to stand on the mill to hit my head.
It's nine and a half feet high in the front.
Remember finding old, thick steel in the ground? It's always a little rusty but not holed through. It's the same as wood that's underground - it lasts a long time. That steel will be around for at least 100 years. It'll rust a little then pretty much stop...weird, right? :)
This is a good idea, K. I would have never thought of it, but this doesn't surprise me. I'm not very creative. I'm glad folks like you are so I can get just a little smarter!
Second one is done...
The third or middle one will be a little harder to make. I using 10" x 1/2" thick channel iron
for the base. I'm taking out my log turner and mounting a new one on the center post.
Third picture is the new hoist or part of it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Second_one.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477503558)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/10_x_half_inch_channel.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477503645)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Hoist_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477503693)
K
You are never going to want to hook your mill to the jeep again. It is going to be too nice at home.
gww
Quote from: gww on October 26, 2016, 02:39:16 PM
K
You are never going to want to hook your mill to the jeep again. It is going to be too nice at home.
gww
Yea I kinda decided that I really don't want to do mobile milling.
It wont be a problem pulling the mill out from under the roof when
I'm finished but I think it will stay put. With all the free logs that I
keep getting I wont have time to mobile mill anyway. Maybe next
year I will build a solar kiln.
I got the log turner all finished. It's welded on the middle post of the new roof.
It sure got cold out. Last week It was in the 80's yesterday and today 30-40's.
Welding and working with metal gets cold on my old bones.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04926.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670485)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04928.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670582)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04929.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670638)
If it was me, I would put side plates on the top crane hold, better - aka safer - for the weld. Say triangulate from the top?
My $0.02 only of course :)
Quote from: Czech_Made on October 28, 2016, 12:55:17 PM
If it was me, I would put side plates on the top crane hold, better - aka safer - for the weld. Say triangulate from the top?
My $0.02 only of course :)
Not much room as you can see in the next pictures.
Welding and cutting all day today... I wont have this part finished today.
I still want to add a few braces.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04930.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477690389)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04931.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477690433)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04932.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477690473)
I bid...oh, I dunno. An antique Allis Chalmers aluminum deck self propelled push mower? Still runs excellent. ;D
Quote from: Ox on October 28, 2016, 06:57:33 PM
I bid...oh, I dunno. An antique Allis Chalmers aluminum deck self propelled push mower? Still runs excellent. ;D
Funny you should say that... I already have one...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Allis_Chalmers_.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477695673)
You dont understand, the crane will try to pull that piece of steel off. See the picture, I would triangulate on both sides from the top such as the green triangle. That would transfer the force from pull to shear.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43116/DSC04929.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477697890)
Safe weld does not start with the welding, but in design.
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 28, 2016, 05:31:30 PM
Quote from: Czech_Made on October 28, 2016, 12:55:17 PM
If it was me, I would put side plates on the top crane hold, better - aka safer - for the weld. Say triangulate from the top?
My $0.02 only of course :)
Not much room as you can see in the next pictures.
Quote from: Czech_Made on October 28, 2016, 07:39:42 PM
You dont understand, the crane will try to pull that piece of steel off. See the picture, I would triangulate on both sides from the top such as the green triangle. That would transfer the force from pull to shear.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43116/DSC04929.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477697890)
Safe weld does not start with the welding, but in design.
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 28, 2016, 05:31:30 PM
Quote from: Czech_Made on October 28, 2016, 12:55:17 PM
If it was me, I would put side plates on the top crane hold, better - aka safer - for the weld. Say triangulate from the top?
My $0.02 only of course :)
Not much room as you can see in the next pictures.
I got ya. But I would not be afraid to hook my dozer to the 1"x2" solid chuck of steel.
I hope this works. Sure is a lot of work.
Cant wait to work in the shade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sall_mil_roof_1~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477752049)
Quote
Funny you should say that... I already have one...
You're something else, K. :D Almost the spitting image of mine. Throttle is a little different.
Quote from: Ox on October 29, 2016, 10:42:07 AM
Quote
Funny you should say that... I already have one...
You're something else, K. :D Almost the spitting image of mine. Throttle is a little different.
Maybe you could trade something for the one I have.
I'm running out of room for stuff like this.
I got around 30 vintage garden tractors and some very unique push mowers.
That's why I was trying to trade you mine. ;) I don't plan on dying here like I was 10 years ago so I need to get rid of my stuff. I'll be darned if I die in a state that doesn't care about its upstate people and only focuses on that filthy city and its people.
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 29, 2016, 10:37:19 AM
I hope this works. Sure is a lot of work.
Cant wait to work in the shade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sall_mil_roof_1~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477752049)
How are you gonna anchor it to the ground?
Quote from: Czech_Made on October 30, 2016, 05:16:24 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 29, 2016, 10:37:19 AM
I hope this works. Sure is a lot of work.
Cant wait to work in the shade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sall_mil_roof_1~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1477752049)
How are you gonna anchor it to the ground?
I only going to anchor the front. The spot that going to sit is shielded from the wind.
The weight if the mill will be sitting on part of it. If the parts I'm welding was any heaver
my tractor would no lift them. I will drive stop sign post in the ground and bolt it fast
for the front. This roof will have some real weight when finished. If I predict any problems
I will later pour a slab of cement over it but I really don't think I'll need it.
I took a break this weekend. Back to welding today. I finished up the third leg.
Now its time to move everything into place.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04933.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477924362)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04934.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477924406)
If you tie your jib beam to your rafter beam the other two will help support it . I put a 5x6 oak beam across above the carrage and mounted a 2500 LBS 12volt winch . use a cant hook hook it will turn a 36 inch log no problem .
Things went as planed today. I like it when I finish what I was hoping to do.
I almost made a big Boo Boo.... I got off my tractor to take a picture.
I said to my self " I think I see light under the back tire. So I lifted the
tire with my hands to see if the tractor was really floating. It was.
It started to tip over and it was all I could do to hold it back.
The only thing that saved the day was that I was able to reach the
backhoe controls. I swung the hoe to the light side and it settled down.
Tomorrow I will level and put the extension back on the mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04937.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477951137)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04942.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477951227)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04946.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477951312)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04947.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477951368)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04948.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477951436)
Looking good, 8) 8) 8) 8)
Progress is good.
I've had mine on 3 wheels from hauling a big rock a few times.
This should be called the "Busy Beaver Sawmill" . And now a retractable roof I hope ! for those really nice days ? Looks great, I like your color scheme. Lazerdan
Quote from: LAZERDAN on October 31, 2016, 09:31:28 PM
This should be called the "Busy Beaver Sawmill" . And now a retractable roof I hope ! for those really nice days ? Looks great, I like your color scheme. Lazerdan
I sorta think Forum user Busy Beaver Lumber might be a little concerned with your suggested name.
Herb
Quote from: LAZERDAN on October 31, 2016, 09:31:28 PM
This should be called the "Busy Beaver Sawmill" . And now a retractable roof I hope ! for those really nice days ? Looks great, I like your color scheme. Lazerdan
Everything was from the scrapyard. I do need to take time to paint some things.
Very cool! How's the skeeters out of that pond? Is that roof on your mill head good enough where you don't have to tarp it?
At one time I was thinking about adding a lift to my sawmill. A guy at work suggested the feet at the bottom,as you are doing. Cleaver guys,you both are. I never did it,I have a loader on the tractor,on my scale of sawing,it's all I need. I also don't have a easy,cheap access of steel either.
I got everything back in place today and I kept all 4 tractor wheels on the ground.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04953.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478036745)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04952.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478036792)
It was a very nice day today. In the 70's maybe rain tomorrow.
It took me all day to put a few more pieces of steel on the structure.
Now it's ready for the wood.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04959.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478125673)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04960.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478125718)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04961.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478125747)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04958.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478125795)
Are your headers pallet racking? That stuff is incredibly strong for its weight and thickness. How does it weld?
Quote from: Ox on November 02, 2016, 08:01:35 PM
Are your headers pallet racking? That stuff is incredibly strong for its weight and thickness. How does it weld?
Yep ... pallet racking channel iron. Same stuff that i made my saw mill frame out of.
I'm using 80T AC Plus welding rods.80 psi tensile and it welds this channel with no problems.
Most of the time stuff like this and bed frames is a high carbon steel and it's very hard to weld.
I don't think the carbon is so high on this channel. I can drill it with no problems.
Just try drilling a bed frame sometime and you will see what high carbon steel is all about.
I will be laying and bolting 3x8" planks on top of the channel for more strength.
I had piles of this channel iron but I'm now using the last of it.
Looks like I'm getting rained out today.
Here is is November 3rd and my grass needs mowed again...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04973.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478180759)
Just mowed mine again two days ago. Strange weather again this year. I won't cry a bit if we have another easy winter again this year.
Quote from: Ox on November 03, 2016, 12:44:59 PM
Just mowed mine again two days ago. Strange weather again this year. I won't cry a bit if we have another easy winter again this year.
I agree... The cold weather just shuts me down... I'm ready for spring.
Another nice day...
Today was the first time I ever had build up of saw dust on my band wheels.
It snapped a good blade. So I got a spray bottle and tried some diesel fuel.
I don't think it helped at all. I'm cutting ash. after every cut I need to scrape the wheels.
Has anyone else have this problem with ash ? You can see in the picture the
white stripe of saw dust on my wheels.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04980.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478280617)
The only time I have noticed build up like that is when my lube system runs out of lube.
New log roller is working GREAT...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04976.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478280805)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04978.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478280854)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc04979.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478280893)
Quote from: JRWoodchuck on November 04, 2016, 01:34:15 PM
The only time I have noticed build up like that is when my lube system runs out of lube.
I never use any lube before... Never needed to. maybe I need to use
something different than diesel fuel because it's not working.
Wow getting the beam up on this roof is tough working by my self...
This stuff is heavy...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04983.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478281124)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04984.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478281179)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04985.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478281229)
I do almost everything by myself also. I feel for you. Looking great though. With the winch for the log turner and the shade, Nobody is going to be able to pay you enough to move your mill. I guess you can leave the wheels on just so you can pull it out every so often to clean sawdust :laugh:.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: Ox on October 29, 2016, 10:57:10 AM
That's why I was trying to trade you mine. ;) I don't plan on dying here like I was 10 years ago so I need to get rid of my stuff. I'll be darned if I die in a state that doesn't care about its upstate people and only focuses on that filthy city and its people.
Hey Ox, where you going to go?
TT - I'll go to Kentucky or Alabama. Not sure which yet, it's a toss up. I have another 6 plus years to think on it.
K - do you have a sawdust diverter directly in front of your driven wheel? Mine is just a rubber piece that actually slightly touches the blade and kind of scrapes the blade a bit. It mostly keeps sawdust from building up on the wheels.
Quote from: Ox on November 04, 2016, 04:49:41 PM
TT - I'll go to Kentucky or Alabama. Not sure which yet, it's a toss up. I have another 6 plus years to think on it.
K - do you have a sawdust diverter directly in front of your driven wheel? Mine is just a rubber piece that actually slightly touches the blade and kind of scrapes the blade a bit. It mostly keeps sawdust from building up on the wheels.
That's next on my list of things to do...
It took me all day to mill drill hole and bolt these 3 planks on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04990.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478293565)
Looks like it cuts as good as it looks Sir. Obviously a Man of many talents,,,I was curious..of all the mill builds on here..why hasn't anyone but a mill with the cantilever head? So many on here clearly have the skills and knowledge. No matter...the imagination and ingenuity of so many members is very cool to watch.
Quote from: Carson-saws on November 04, 2016, 05:14:13 PM
Looks like it cuts as good as it looks Sir. Obviously a Man of many talents,,,I was curious..of all the mill builds on here..why hasn't anyone but a mill with the cantilever head? So many on here clearly have the skills and knowledge. No matter...the imagination and ingenuity of so many members is very cool to watch.
You would need some serious steel to build a cantilever head mill. It takes some very heavy
stuff structure to hold the weight and stress a cantilever head puts out. Much easier to make one
with a track I would think.
There was a member here who moved to Costa Rica, I think, who built a homemade cantilever head mill for extra large lumber. I haven't seen him around in a while now... The mill looked a lot like a big Woodmizer. Painted red, I think. Anyone know who I'm talking about?
Quote from: Ox on November 04, 2016, 08:21:48 PM
There was a member here who moved to Costa Rica, I think, who built a homemade cantilever head mill for extra large lumber. I haven't seen him around in a while now... The mill looked a lot like a big Woodmizer. Painted red, I think. Anyone know who I'm talking about?
That would be Harold (username Fla._Deadheader) and it looks like he's not logged on since February. You can find lots of posts by him related to his mill by searching for posts with wide mill keywords and his username...
Hope he's ok down there in Costa Rica... Maybe his daughter who is a member (don't know her username) will see this and fill us in.
Herb
That's it! Fla Deadheader! Thanks for that, PC. Don'tcha hate when you know you know something but it won't come out?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,75329.0.html
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 04, 2016, 05:06:31 PM
It took me all day to mill drill hole and bolt these 3 planks on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04990.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478293565)
Too bad you are so far, I would help you.
Quote from: Czech_Made on November 07, 2016, 09:52:46 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 04, 2016, 05:06:31 PM
It took me all day to mill drill hole and bolt these 3 planks on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04990.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478293565)
Too bad you are so far, I would help you.
Hey thanks... :embarassed:
Five more beams to go. When I was younger this was fun...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/5_beams_to_go.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478555436)
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 07, 2016, 04:48:36 PM
Quote from: Czech_Made on November 07, 2016, 09:52:46 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 04, 2016, 05:06:31 PM
It took me all day to mill drill hole and bolt these 3 planks on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04990.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478293565)
Too bad you are so far, I would help you.
Hey thanks... :embarassed:
It cost me nothing ;D But people help me with roof and such, I believe in pay it forward, besides I would love to see your setup and all the toys ;D
I got all the 3" x 8" x 16' beams up ... Roofing comes next. Note... All the tin came from the junkyard.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/All_the_beams_are_up.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478640174)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roofing.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478640242)
Guess she won't sag, huh? ;D Looks good. As a side note: I hate you and your junkyard too. ;)
Quote from: Ox on November 08, 2016, 05:16:24 PM
Guess she won't sag, huh? ;D Looks good. As a side note: I hate you and your junkyard too. ;)
I had the ground all packed down real good all around the I-beams that it sits on .
I seen cracks in the dirt where the beam have flexed from the weight added to the roof.
Just for safety I'm adding removable winter legs out front. I could let one leg on the right
stay all the time without it being in my way. The left side the leg could stay until I would
need to cut something over 20 feet long. The middle leg would need to come out any time
I used my mill. So the left and middle will stay out all spring, summer and fall. They will all
have a fast hitch hookup. Might use 2" heavy wall pipe.
I'm thinking about moving up near you just to be close to that junkyard.
That's a good plan, K. I would have been hesitant with a big sloppy snow load with the bottom legs not being more than twice the length of the roof legs. You'll likely only need your additional legs in a big snow, right? Or after a hard winter and spring melt comes with rain. Wet snow is how much heavier than regular? Crazy the loads on our roofs are, huh?
Speaking of rain... I kinda got rained out today.
So I welded up my snow support legs.
They just slip in the small chunk of stub pipe on top and it will
get a 1/2" bolt so it stays there until I take them out.
The third leg on the right can stay there all the time.
It's not in my way. One piece of roofing is laying on the roof.
Hope to finish it tomorrow.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc05025.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478733181)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc05026.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478733222)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc05028.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1478733333)
Coming a long nicely. 8) 8)
Quote from: Peter Drouin on November 09, 2016, 06:25:28 PM
Coming a long nicely. 8) 8)
It's one job that I will be glad when it's done.
It's also one job that I did not expect to get done this year.
Kbeitz looking good it makes me tired and jealous watching you work on all your builds. I am still waiting to see your log loader finished
Looking good kbeitz.
Quote from: larrydown60 on November 09, 2016, 06:53:07 PM
Kbeitz looking good it makes me tired and jealous watching you work on all your builds. I am still waiting to see your log loader finished
Since I made my log deck on wheels I'm thinking that I'm
Not needing a log loader to trip over.
Looking good. Sure glad I don't have to deal with snow loads down here. ;D
Quote from: fishfighter on November 10, 2016, 06:53:34 AM
Looking good. Sure glad I don't have to deal with snow loads down here. ;D
But you can keep your floods....
Roof is DONE... So glad. Think I'm getting old.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roof_is_done_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478813365)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roof_is_done_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478813408)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roof_is_done_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478813462)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roof_is_done_4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478813505)
Looks like you will be nice and dry now, Good job
Quote from: larrydown60 on November 10, 2016, 06:25:52 PM
Looks like you will be nice and dry now, Good job
Wasn't worried about me but I hate seeing my tools getting wet...
Thanks...
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 10, 2016, 04:32:01 PM
Roof is DONE... So glad. Think I'm getting old.
We all are. But if you reach the end without some major aches and pains, you probably didn't do much.
At least that's how I justify it....I blame the hair loss on my mothers side of the family. ;D
Looks good, that is heavy duty
If I wasn't in the snow zone I would have used 2x4's not 3x8's.
3x8's 16 feet long sure are heavy and it's not easy trying to
cut 16 footers out of curved ash logs. It's done... I'm happy.
Today I will put in the lights. Works never done.
K
If it is any consulation, I could not lift a 16 foot 8x3. You must be doing something right to be able to work alone with things like that. I don't blame you for being glad it is done but it sure looks like it is going to be worth it, expecially since it is done. I will be watching all your projects that you share.
gww
[/quote
At least that's how I justify it....I blame the hair loss on my mothers side of the family. ;D
[/quote]
I blamed that at the time of having two teenagers. :D
Looks great K.
Look good, K! And you didn't destroy anything, right? ;) I love recycling and using old stuff. I can't believe somebody scrapped that roofing. You must be surrounded by rich city folk down there cause you find wonderful stuff in your junkyard.
Quote from: Ox on November 11, 2016, 10:25:07 AM
Look good, K! And you didn't destroy anything, right? ;) I love recycling and using old stuff. I can't believe somebody scrapped that roofing. You must be surrounded by rich city folk down there cause you find wonderful stuff in your junkyard.
I don't know why but I bet at least once a month a load of roofing like that
comes in to the yard. I try to go shopping there at least twice a week...
Done.... Done... I got lights smiley_dark_bulb... I quit for the weekend.
Think I will go to the Legion for a break.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roof_done_Got_lights.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478883654)
Quote from: gww on November 11, 2016, 08:10:10 AM
K
If it is any consulation, I could not lift a 16 foot 8x3. You must be doing something right to be able to work alone with things like that. I don't blame you for being glad it is done but it sure looks like it is going to be worth it, expecially since it is done. I will be watching all your projects that you share.
gww
I wanted to weight one but that was to much work.
You deserve a good little pickling after all that work. Lemme buy you a beer... smiley_beertoast
Hmm. I don't know why that's so small...
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 28, 2016, 12:06:16 PM
I got the log turner all finished. It's welded on the middle post of the new roof.
It sure got cold out. Last week It was in the 80's yesterday and today 30-40's.
Welding and working with metal gets cold on my old bones.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04926.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670485)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04928.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670582)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04929.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670638)
i like the piston man hanging on the wall
Quote from: Kwill on November 12, 2016, 09:00:25 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 28, 2016, 12:06:16 PM
I got the log turner all finished. It's welded on the middle post of the new roof.
It sure got cold out. Last week It was in the 80's yesterday and today 30-40's.
Welding and working with metal gets cold on my old bones.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04926.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670485)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04928.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670582)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04929.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477670638)
i like the piston man hanging on the wall
I wish I had the rest of what ever the piston man came out of.
I found that in the junkyard.. I just had to take it home.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Piston_man~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479045261)
Kbeitz, appears to be the internals of a radial engine, fairly common on early aircraift.
If I had more time I would make a gas engine out of it.
This is the last engine I made.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/compressor_engine.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479073830)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Flywheelhomemadeengine2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479073881)
Kbeitz, impressive! Did you begin with the premade parts on the welding table?
Congrads on completing the roof it looks great.
Im suposta cut the logs and build a front deck / car cover for my daughter next week. Its going to be fun.
Caseyk
Quote from: fishpharmer on November 13, 2016, 05:11:24 PM
Kbeitz, impressive! Did you begin with the premade parts on the welding table?
Yep... Started with an upright air compressor and two valve handles.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Image01~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479083914)
What do you run with it a blender? lol
cool stuff
Quote from: 4x4American on November 14, 2016, 05:37:10 AM
What do you run with it a blender? lol
cool stuff
I never did like the way it ran. The flywheels are to light for the engine.
You need to keep the RPM high or it wont keep running.
It's more fun with heavy flywheels where you can get very low RPM's
K, I'm impressed with you building that engine. That is way to cool.
Quote from: fishfighter on November 14, 2016, 06:33:48 AM
K, I'm impressed with you building that engine. That is way to cool.
No kidding...
Quote from: SineWave on November 14, 2016, 06:36:51 PM
Quote from: fishfighter on November 14, 2016, 06:33:48 AM
K, I'm impressed with you building that engine. That is way to cool.
No kidding...
With a name like SineWave I think you would like one of my
next projects. It's a combo electric motor and gen-set.
Multiple voltages both ways.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02209.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479167316)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02336.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479167376)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Home_built_generator_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479167536)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Mvc-827s.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479167615)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/MVC-839S.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479167655)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02141.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479167818)
Only 60 RPM will give me 60 cycles per second.
60 high powered magnets per turn. When I wire up
the coils they are going to also be switchable for different
cycles.
Kbeitz, I think you may be the right person to duplicate the machine that allowed the Coral Castle to be built by one guy using 20 and 30 ton blocks. Perhaps you're familiar with it.
http://www.labyrinthina.com/coral-castle.html
http://www.rense.com/general39/coral.htm
It's an interesting riddle. Maybe special unique technology was used. Maybe not
How will you regulate the voltage? And now you really impressing me. You have all the good tools and way to much time on your hand. :D Keep me in the loop as you progress on that project.
You do have quite a set of tools. Even more important, you use them well.
I would really like to show all the things that i build...
But i think I need to move to the general board with this
before I get kicked off the sawmill board. i don't want
to mess up a good thing. This doesn't have much to
do with milling.
Quote from: fishfighter on November 14, 2016, 07:08:40 PM
How will you regulate the voltage? And now you really impressing me. You have all the good tools and way to much time on your hand. :D Keep me in the loop as you progress on that project.
I'm thinking a variac transformer for voltage regulating.
Quote from: btulloh on November 14, 2016, 07:05:10 PM
Kbeitz, I think you may be the right person to duplicate the machine that allowed the Coral Castle to be built by one guy using 20 and 30 ton blocks. Perhaps you're familiar with it.
http://www.labyrinthina.com/coral-castle.html
http://www.rense.com/general39/coral.htm
It's an interesting riddle. Maybe special unique technology was used. Maybe not
I believe in the man upstairs... But...
I also believe the pyramid builders was not from this plant...
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 14, 2016, 07:15:38 PM
I would really like to show all the things that i build...
But i think I need to move to the general board with this
before I get kicked off the sawmill board. i don't want
to mess up a good thing. This doesn't have much to
do with milling.
Do so and PM me when you do.
Would love to be a "fly on the wall" of your "laboratory," Kbeitz! :P
K
Did you find a way to scavange magnets or have to pay retail. When I built my wind turbines the magnets were about $7 each and were one of the things I couldn't come up with on my own and a big expence. I even built one turbine with copper from microwaves but the microwave magnets were not strong enough for a slower speed turbine.
Do you have a good source of magnets.
I am always trying to learn.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: btulloh on November 14, 2016, 07:05:10 PM
Kbeitz, I think you may be the right person to duplicate the machine that allowed the Coral Castle to be built by one guy using 20 and 30 ton blocks. Perhaps you're familiar with it.
http://www.labyrinthina.com/coral-castle.html
http://www.rense.com/general39/coral.htm
It's an interesting riddle. Maybe special unique technology was used. Maybe not
This is interesting. I am into marine aquariums, and I do know that certain forms of rock (we call it base rock when it's dry and has no life in it) can be extremely porous and light although it may appear to be dense and heavy like concrete.
Have they removed and weighed each piece to know for sure how dense they are?
I read what his thoughts were on magnets...while some of it made sense, the "rubber" or "glass" magnets he discussed could be explained by static electricity.
What gave me goose bumps was him talking about how he sees particles in the air and certain flashes of light at certain times when he "concentrates" on it.
Now I do not want to be labeled a nut job, and have tried to even go to the optometrist many times to make sure I didn't have a detached retna issue or some other problem with my vision. but I experience VERY similar observations by doing similar "things" the way he describes. More noticeably on bright sunny days but sometimes just as much indoors just not in as much detail.
I had some weird "intuition" if you want to call it that.....that it involved molecules or some type of free floating electrons, energy or what have you and the way they were traveling around "freely". This part has always bugged me.
I had brushed all of it off and told myself it was me just over thinking some common occurring phenomena we all might experience from time to time.
Really really really weird to read about this guy and what he believes is part of unlocking some natural force of the universe and then talks about the vision observations. Lmao
Overall my money is on pulleys, and logs for the way he moved the blocks around and them being made of ancient coral beds which are known to be lighter forms of material anyway.
Quote from: gww on November 15, 2016, 12:12:57 PM
K
Did you find a way to scavange magnets or have to pay retail. When I built my wind turbines the magnets were about $7 each and were one of the things I couldn't come up with on my own and a big expence. I even built one turbine with copper from microwaves but the microwave magnets were not strong enough for a slower speed turbine.
Do you have a good source of magnets.
I am always trying to learn.
Cheers
gww
I get all my magnets off E-bay. Search for super magnets. Cheaper by the 100's
Some are so strong that they are dangerous.
Kbeitz, How can they be dangerous? :D
Peter
The magnets are strong enough that if you don't pay attention and get them to close to each other they can snap together and break bones. If there are several attached to something and it gets close to something that it is attracted to it can break even bigger bones. The magnets are unbelievable and not like what is in a speaker or microwave. I could not seperate mine except by putting them on the edge of something and sliding them down the edge untill they got far enough to lose magnitism. I know you didn't ask me but I know personally that the risk is real if you don't pay attention and have a really clean (manetically) work area.
Cheers
gww
You are probably aware as I see laughter....but neodymium magnets can take digits and hands for those unaware.
Nothing to play with! ;) haha
Sorry gww.....I see we were typing and ping at the same time.
Anyone can Wikipedia neodymium magnets and realize they are nothing to play with.
Link is not for the squeamish !!
http://geekologie.com/2009/02/guy-loses-finger-to-neodymium.php (http://geekologie.com/2009/02/guy-loses-finger-to-neodymium.php)
Thats what happens if 2 big neodymium magnets decide to meet up with a finger in the middle. The smaller of the 2 had a pull force of 400 pounds, and they where 20" apart when they decided to fly together.
I've got assorted magnets out of hard disks. Some of the big old ones have a bit of power, like I have a couple on the end of my lathe that I can't pull off, have to slide them to the edge and pry them away. Strong enough to injure a finger if you are careless.
Quote from: Peter Drouin on November 15, 2016, 08:50:42 PM
Kbeitz, How can they be dangerous? :D
I have two magnets that will cut your fingers right off...
There is one magnet on E-bay right now for sale for $4,777,77.
I would hate to see the damage that one could do.
A two inch cube sell for around $1,712.29. Each Magnet has 458 lbs of Holding Power.
Imagine getting your fingers between two of those. Who is going to get them apart?
If one magnet gets with in range of another they will slam together so fast that you better not be in between them.
Them darn magnets oughta have a way to let the smoke out of em... then they won't be so dangerous no more. ;)
We had rain today... I had to just stand under my new roof and smile...
Sure was a good feeling watching it rain and my mill was in the dry...
K
QuoteWe had rain today... I had to just stand under my new roof and smile...
Sure was a good feeling watching it rain and my mill was in the dry...
No doubt 8).
gww
That's a feeling only those who have built something will understand. Well done.
Thanks everyone...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/My_picture.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479427483)
I think your my daddy :D
Now that my mill is under a roof I think this winter I will make
a home made Simple set for my mill. I have a couple of these
new Gemini 2000 industrial control units sitting in storage and
I think they will work just fine for one. I just need to buy a
pulse generator for it. The unit will work off of 115 ac or
up to 14 VDC.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Gemini_2000.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479430656)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Astro_line.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479430717)
PULSE GENERATOR
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/PULSE_GENERATOR~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479430784)
Wow. I have no need for magnets like that , so never had one. Thanks for the info guys.
I was looking at encoders like the picture above on E-bay.
Wow $$$$ over $400.00. So today i made a trip to Trates
Surplus in Milton Pa today. It's an old building full of surplus
factory type stuff for sale. I was able to buy the encoder I
needed for my unit for $25.00 It was missing the plug cord
and that cost me more than the encoder. $37.00 But I now
have everything I need to get this project on it's way.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/25_dollar_controler_from_Trates.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479509627)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/RED_LION_CONTROLS_CCARPG01_RQAUS1_CCARPG01.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479509660)
K
Shopping is good, Knowing what to buy and what works seems to be the trick of the thing. Most of us have a pretty hard time knowing what will work with what. I guess that is the differance of the men from the boys. This post reminds me that I am still in the potty pants part of growing toward manship when I look at the things you come up with to use to do what you want it to do.
Cheers
gww
That is a power buy K. If I was still working, I could get those for free. They used to change them out all the time if they needed or not.
Quote from: fishfighter on November 18, 2016, 07:38:17 PM
That is a power buy K. If I was still working, I could get those for free. They used to change them out all the time if they needed or not.
Wow... Most that I looked at was between $200-300.00
Quote from: gww on November 18, 2016, 06:59:30 PM
K
Shopping is good, Knowing what to buy and what works seems to be the trick of the thing. Most of us have a pretty hard time knowing what will work with what. I guess that is the differance of the men from the boys. This post reminds me that I am still in the potty pants part of growing toward manship when I look at the things you come up with to use to do what you want it to do.
Cheers
gww
If you learn how things work it's not so hard.
A pulse generator is nothing more than a fancy rotating switch.
The Gemini 2000 is nothing but a programmable counter.
I had no idea about those magnets, thanks for the lesson, could have saved me from some hurt in the future. I wonder if you could make them real skinny like a blade and use them to cut stuff. Like have one magnet a blade and the other in a cutting block...proll a silly idea. I have many of them.
For an example, the other day I was wondering if one was to buy a helicopter, would one trailer it home, or fly it home? And furthermore, if one was to trailer it home, would one fly it onto the trailer and then take the props off? The things I think about...
Quote from: 4x4American on November 22, 2016, 08:08:11 PM
I had no idea about those magnets, thanks for the lesson, could have saved me from some hurt in the future. I wonder if you could make them real skinny like a blade and use them to cut stuff. Like have one magnet a blade and the other in a cutting block...proll a silly idea. I have many of them.
For an example, the other day I was wondering if one was to buy a helicopter, would one trailer it home, or fly it home? And furthermore, if one was to trailer it home, would one fly it onto the trailer and then take the props off? The things I think about...
Magnets are extremely brittle. They would not make a good knife.
If you let two of them come cashing together most of the time they will break.
Learned something today... I was thinking for some reason that all miter saws
was 3600 rpm. Today I was working on my homemade band sharpener.
I was trying to fit my 8"x3/8"x1" E-bay grind stone on my newly found junk
yard miter saw. To get the stone up inside the guard I had to remove the
motor to make enough room for the stone to slide by the arbor bolt.
I also had to make new stone washers to fit the arbor and my stone.
After I got everything up and in place I plugged it in and bumped the
trigger. It ran great. So I got out my diamond stone dresser and shaped the
wheel to fit my band profile. When I finished I said to my self "Wow it seems fast".
So I looked at the motor nameplate and it said 5000rpm... Opps... My stone is
only rated for 3600rpm. Well lucky me nothing happened. So back to E-bay to
buy a speed controller. I got this one for $18.00 free shipping.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Eagle_MS50_110_volt_20_amp_Router_Speed_Control.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479923941)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/8x_three_eights_x1_RPM_3600.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479924329)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc05074.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1479924542)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05075.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1479924594)
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 22, 2016, 08:21:29 PM
Quote from: 4x4American on November 22, 2016, 08:08:11 PM
I had no idea about those magnets, thanks for the lesson, could have saved me from some hurt in the future. I wonder if you could make them real skinny like a blade and use them to cut stuff. Like have one magnet a blade and the other in a cutting block...proll a silly idea. I have many of them.
For an example, the other day I was wondering if one was to buy a helicopter, would one trailer it home, or fly it home? And furthermore, if one was to trailer it home, would one fly it onto the trailer and then take the props off? The things I think about...
Magnets are extremely brittle. They would not make a good knife.
If you let two of them come cashing together most of the time they will break.
I wanted to add their brittle nature to the other safety concern about magnets. I was handling several 1" diameter thin magnets one time and inadvertently let two slap together, one broke and pieces went flying. I wouldn't let kids handle them without safety glasses.
Could you post of video of you using your sharpener? Seems quite simple. And chop saws seem to be relatively available for fairly low cost.
More picturers will be coming. I'm still building it.
It's real hard to find the right size grinding stone
That will fit the saw. I need to make the vise and
The holding latch. I'm not sure if I will make it
Automatic or just manual yet. I still like using a
Dremel to sharpen my bands. I guess it's time to
Move up.
Waiting on this Thanksgiving Day for everyone to come for dinner
I got a little bit more done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05076.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1480018055)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc05077.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1480018079)
It's a good idea, I like it. You also got lucky that stone didn't blow up on you! Can you adjust the stop for the downswing so you don't gouge your blade? It looks like the tooth angle setting is quite a bit more than even 10°. Why?
How are you going to keep the gullet shape?
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 10:14:32 AM
It's a good idea, I like it. You also got lucky that stone didn't blow up on you! Can you adjust the stop for the downswing so you don't gouge your blade? It looks like the tooth angle setting is quite a bit more than even 10°. Why?
How are you going to keep the gullet shape?
The down swing had a bolt for the downswing stop. I replaced it with a longer one. The tooth angle setting is just what the blade was sat at for it the blade I was playing with. I will be setting it at 4deg for my blades. I will keep The gullet shape with the profile of the grind stone.
Aha, I see now. The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet. You'll like doing your blades this way I bet! Only way it could be better is with coolant. Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square. In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip. I hope that made sense...?
I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is. I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much. No difference in cutting performance for me. :D
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now. The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet. You'll like doing your blades this way I bet! Only way it could be better is with coolant. Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square. In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip. I hope that made sense...?
I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is. I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much. No difference in cutting performance for me. :D
Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree.
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant. They think it's better not to have the mess.
K watching this build real close. I been collecting parts and pieces to build one like you doing. ;D
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now. The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet. You'll like doing your blades this way I bet! Only way it could be better is with coolant. Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square. In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip. I hope that made sense...?
I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is. I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much. No difference in cutting performance for me. :D
Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree.
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant. They think it's better not to have the mess.
You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face.
When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth. If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.
Quote from: fishfighter on November 25, 2016, 02:51:00 PM
K watching this build real close. I been collecting parts and pieces to build one like you doing. ;D
Hey... thanks...
Today I ordered two push latch toggle clamps off eBay.
One will advance the blade and the second one will lock the blade from movement.
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on November 25, 2016, 03:10:28 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now. The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet. You'll like doing your blades this way I bet! Only way it could be better is with coolant. Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square. In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip. I hope that made sense...?
I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is. I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much. No difference in cutting performance for me. :D
Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree.
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant. They think it's better not to have the mess.
You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face.
When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth. If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.
Ok I got it.
But I think the you could angle the face cut if you would do it like a chop saw.
That would take a lot of time because you have three different teeth.
Right straight and left. I'll just stay with square across the tooth.
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 03:22:21 PM
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on November 25, 2016, 03:10:28 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now. The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet. You'll like doing your blades this way I bet! Only way it could be better is with coolant. Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square. In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip. I hope that made sense...?
I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is. I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much. No difference in cutting performance for me. :D
Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree.
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant. They think it's better not to have the mess.
You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face.
When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth. If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.
Ok I got it.
But I think the you could angle the face cut if you would do it like a chop saw.
That would take a lot of time because you have three different teeth.
Right straight and left. I'll just stay with square across the tooth.
No expert here but I would think that it would cause set issues. The band teeth are pretty thin and if the face was angled, there would be stresses as it was cutting the wood wanting to bend it one way or another.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on November 25, 2016, 03:40:42 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 03:22:21 PM
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on November 25, 2016, 03:10:28 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on November 25, 2016, 02:33:08 PM
Quote from: Ox on November 25, 2016, 01:36:33 PM
Aha, I see now. The stone didn't look thick enough to get the whole gullet. You'll like doing your blades this way I bet! Only way it could be better is with coolant. Only hint I can offer is that Cooks stresses keeping the tooth tip square. In other words to be sure the center of the stone is over the tip. I hope that made sense...?
I often wonder how critical all this sharpening science really is. I've done the slowest most careful sharpening and then the complete opposite, slamming through and not caring much. No difference in cutting performance for me. :D
Keeping the stone square would to me mean zero degree.
The tilt of the blade of 4 degrees would give me a 4 degree tooth. Right ?
Or am I looking at this all wrong ?
Also Cooks sharpner uses no coolant. They think it's better not to have the mess.
You want it square across the face and 4, 7 or 10 degrees going down the face.
When sharpening it is very easy to over heat the tip of the tooth. If I have a blade that hit a nail or was otherwise damaged I will sharpen it 2 or 3 times rather than take more off in one go.
Ok I got it.
But I think the you could angle the face cut if you would do it like a chop saw.
That would take a lot of time because you have three different teeth.
Right straight and left. I'll just stay with square across the tooth.
No expert here but I would think that it would cause set issues. The band teeth are pretty thin and if the face was angled, there would be stresses as it was cutting the wood wanting to bend it one way or another.
Your probably right.
It's going the wrong way. Or is it a left handed one Kbeitz?
Quote from: Peter Drouin on November 25, 2016, 08:52:04 PM
It's going the wrong way. Or is it a left handed one Kbeitz?
Not having any idea what I was doing I built my mill backwards.
I have to turn every band inside out before putting them on my mill.
So. I'm building my sharpner backwards. It worked out better that way
because the tilt of the saw would have been wrong for a right hand mill.
K
QuoteIt worked out better that way
because the tilt of the saw would have been wrong for a right hand mill.
Sometimes you just get lucky.
gww
Joe Hillman described it better than I could. Square across the face to keep the top of the tooth straight and square. As in: a perfect world, the bolt holding the stone on would be directly above the tooth to be sharpened.
As far as coolant: I have a Cooks sharpener and I think the only way to improve it would be coolant or oil. But also, this is an additional expense and mess. But would help with rusty blades. It's the rust on the tooth tip that gets ya. Makes for a dull blade in a quick hurry when the rust comes off. Pros and cons with everything...you're doing just fine!
Quote from: Ox on November 26, 2016, 10:22:53 AM
Joe Hillman described it better than I could. Square across the face to keep the top of the tooth straight and square. As in: a perfect world, the bolt holding the stone on would be directly above the tooth to be sharpened.
As far as coolant: I have a Cooks sharpener and I think the only way to improve it would be coolant or oil. But also, this is an additional expense and mess. But would help with rusty blades. It's the rust on the tooth tip that gets ya. Makes for a dull blade in a quick hurry when the rust comes off. Pros and cons with everything...you're doing just fine!
Well with the bolt above the tooth that's getting sharpen is not going to work for me.
I'm setting this up so when I make the cut it's going to match the factory cut as close as I can.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Profile.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1480178277)
Are the joints on the chop saw tight or is there any wiggle room. If it is good and tight that's what you want.
If it has slop though you can use it to your advantage. When you lower the blade you put pressure on the handle pushing it to the left as you lower it into the gullet then once you hit the bottom stop you put pressure on the handle to move it to the right so it touches the tooth. You can bump it into the tooth a few times to take light cuts and not over heat the teeth.
Also make sure you get a hard stone. I originally tried sharpening my blades with what ever stone I had laying around. When I started sharpening the blade the first few teeth had a 10degree angle but as I went around the blade the grinding wheel wore and by the time I got to the end of the blade I had a negative angle on the last foot or so of the blade.
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on November 28, 2016, 11:01:52 AM
Are the joints on the chop saw tight or is there any wiggle room. If it is good and tight that's what you want.
If it has slop though you can use it to your advantage. When you lower the blade you put pressure on the handle pushing it to the left as you lower it into the gullet then once you hit the bottom stop you put pressure on the handle to move it to the right so it touches the tooth. You can bump it into the tooth a few times to take light cuts and not over heat the teeth.
Also make sure you get a hard stone. I originally tried sharpening my blades with what ever stone I had laying around. When I started sharpening the blade the first few teeth had a 10degree angle but as I went around the blade the grinding wheel wore and by the time I got to the end of the blade I had a negative angle on the last foot or so of the blade.
So you did good... Some people pay extra money for variable pitch blades... :D
I got some more done on the blade sharpener this week.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05080.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1480595164)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05082.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1480595220)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05083.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1480595274)
K, would a swing latch to do the blade stopping would make it faster? Maybe with a spring to pull it down and using force to push it forward to advance it by hand.
Looking down the length of the bandsaw blade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27421/BANDSAW_SHAROENING_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1482960092)
Yes... You want the blade to be centered under the arbor of the motor to be square.
KB, your design looks solid, but it's going to take a lot of hand motions for each tooth. Perhaps you could use a foot pedal to engage the blade clamp? That way you use one hand to advance the band and one to lower the grinding wheel.... Advance band - grind, advance band -grind....
I sharpen ten or more bands per sharpening session with a drag type sharpener I built, and it gets pretty tedious.
Actually, you probably don't need to clamp the band hard anyway. If you're using a toggle clamp to advance it, you could have the band guides spring tensioned sufficiently to hold the band in place. Leave the band advancing dog down while you make the grind. You'll only be taking 5-10 thou off each tooth.
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 05, 2016, 11:30:16 PM
Quote from: valley ranch on March 05, 2016, 07:57:00 PM
Nice, like your Bridgeport too. I think that's what I saw you using.
Yea that an old J-head Bridgeport. I think that it will be in my basement until the day I die.
I took it apart in little peaces and carried it down my steps and put it back together again.
I found out some of the small parts wasn't so small.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/J-head_Bridgeport.jpg)
Then it wasnt easy getting this into my basment eather...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/1642_Lathe~0.jpg)
You can build a big shed now to put it in :) Nice Mill
Finally found a radial saw. ;D Old Craftmans for $25. They lost the safety key, so I changed that out to a toggle switch I had on hand.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1170.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1484645476)
The saw shaft is 5/8"x 1 7/16". K, what size stone I need? Also, the RPM is rated at 3450. I need to slow that down. Would a sewing machine petal work? If not, I will have to order a router speed control switch.
Quote from: fishfighter on January 17, 2017, 04:53:48 AM
Finally found a radial saw. ;D Old Craftmans for $25. They lost the safety key, so I changed that out to a toggle switch I had on hand.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1170.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1484645476)
The saw shaft is 5/8"x 1 7/16". K, what size stone I need? Also, the RPM is rated at 3450. I need to slow that down. Would a sewing machine petal work? If not, I will have to order a router speed control switch.
Sewing machine pedal wont work and I don't think the router control will ether.
The amperage of the motor is to large. You need a large rheostat and thats not
going to be cheap. E-bay will be you'r best bet for finding a stone and also the
beat place to find a low priced rheostat. Good luck with you'r project. You got
a good deal on the saw.
The saw came with three new 10" blades, owners manuals and tools. Owners manuals were printed in 1969. ;D Very old saw, but still tight.
On that stone. 3/4" wide or 1" wide?
Quote from: fishfighter on January 17, 2017, 04:53:48 AM
Finally found a radial saw. ;D Old Craftmans for $25. They lost the safety key, so I changed that out to a toggle switch I had on hand.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1170.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1484645476)
The saw shaft is 5/8"x 1 7/16". K, what size stone I need? Also, the RPM is rated at 3450. I need to slow that down. Would a sewing machine petal work? If not, I will have to order a router speed control switch.
Sears had a recall on that saw and they still provide upgraded blade covers and such for it - but seems like it will not be saw in the future, correct? :)
Not going to be a saw. :D It can be wired 110v/220V. At 110V, the amps are only 5.5. Was looking at router speed control switches and the ones I see are rated up to 15 amps. Just maybe that could work. What you think?
Was the 5.5 for 220 or 115V ?
With two voltages there has to be two different amp listings.
The 5.5 amps were for the 110V.
Quote from: fishfighter on January 17, 2017, 08:00:57 AM
The 5.5 amps were for the 110V.
That sure seems low. But if that's what it is a router speed control should work.
It could be the running amps. Your starting amps might be much higher.
Also when putting a heavy stone in place of the blade that will increase your
starting amps. The router speed controls are cheap so you wont have much to
loose.
I did a google search and almost all of the craftsman radial arm saw amprages
are 15 amps for 115v. The 3 hp was 16.5 amps. Maybe you missed the 1 ? All
of them said that you need a 20 amp circuit to wire them up to.
I stand correct. 110V is 11 amps. Had to put my extra eyes on. :D And thanks for your help.
I did fine a few wheels that are rated at 3350 RPM in the 8" and 4450 RPM in the 6".
Fish, I had one of them saws. Scrapped it when the worm reduction gears wore out. Parts are no longer available. Good saw while the gears last...
fish
Thats the saw I have in my garage. I paid $150 for it not $25. I am jealous. It is $150 handy for wood though. Now you got me thinking of how to use it for both.
Cheers
gww
If that is a capacitor start motor, The one I had was. You can't slow it down, it will burn out the motor. Muggs :-\
Quote from: pineywoods on January 17, 2017, 09:25:52 AM
Fish, I had one of them saws. Scrapped it when the worm reduction gears wore out. Parts are no longer available. Good saw while the gears last...
I don't think it was a Sears if it had worm gear reduction
At least I have never seen one with any kind of reduction.
The motor shaft is the saw arbor.
Quote from: muggs on January 17, 2017, 10:25:29 AM
If that is a capacitor start motor, The one I had was. You can't slow it down, it will burn out the motor. Muggs :-\
The motor needs to have brushes to use a router speed control.
I'm not sure but maybe you could use a VFD.
I am pretty sure the craftsman motor is a brush motor on the raidial arm. Now the motor that was on my compressor and was on the jointer needed start copasitors.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 17, 2017, 11:45:23 AM
Quote from: pineywoods on January 17, 2017, 09:25:52 AM
Fish, I had one of them saws. Scrapped it when the worm reduction gears wore out. Parts are no longer available. Good saw while the gears last...
I don't think it was a Sears if it had worm gear reduction
At least I have never seen one with any kind of reduction.
The motor shaft is the saw arbor.
Yep, the rotor is direct and it does have brushes. I don't have to slow it down due to being able to get a stone that is rated with higher rpms. ;D
Thanks K for your help. ;D
Quote from: fishfighter on January 18, 2017, 06:09:07 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 17, 2017, 11:45:23 AM
Quote from: pineywoods on January 17, 2017, 09:25:52 AM
Fish, I had one of them saws. Scrapped it when the worm reduction gears wore out. Parts are no longer available. Good saw while the gears last...
I don't think it was a Sears if it had worm gear reduction
At least I have never seen one with any kind of reduction.
The motor shaft is the saw arbor.
Yep, the rotor is direct and it does have brushes. I don't have to slow it down due to being able to get a stone that is rated with higher rpms. ;D
Thanks K for your help. ;D
Anytime...
Well it look like I did something right.
My roof is taking the 23 inches of snow so far.
We are calling for some rain next week.
I guess that will really test it's weight limit.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/23_inches_of_snow.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489697372)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Snow_load.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489697477)
K
I am glad it is holding up but sorry you have to be testing it. :laugh:
Cheers
gww
PS like always, thanks for the pictures.
I never before had to make a building that the rear legs
needs to hold up the whole building. Over the years I have
built a lot of building but nothing like this. I don't know how
to judge how much weight 3 I-beams can hold being that it
is the only load-bearing wall . The beams are 6" x 3/8" thick.
I stuck 3 pipes under the roof in the front just for the winter.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roof_is_done_2~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489699074)
How in the world does one find anything with all the white stuff? :D
You would be surpised the stuff you find with a bucket loader,snow plow or a snow blower. :D
Update....
30 minutes after I posted this there was an explosion
outside. My neighbors pole building just went down. He just got
home and it was not 10 minutes after he got out of his NEW car
the whole thing came down. The car you see in the picture is the
company car that he drives for work. The roof is smashed and the
front windshield is broken on that car but his new car is inside under
everything. I crawled under the roof to check out the car. The roof
is smashed in but no broken windows. I'm betting both are totaled.
Third picture is the NEW car under the roof.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05429.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489703100)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05426.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489703210)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05421.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489703270)
K
That is a terrible way to get snow off your roof.
Cheers
gww
This is how us snow people find stuff under the snow. :D
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,5427.0.html
I've never seen or heard of one collapsing like that before. Old barns with rotten roofs, yeah, but not a pole barn building that's being used. Can you see what broke first? Was is a truss which then led to the other trusses snapping all at once? I can't believe that one of the supporting poles would actually buckle but I suppose it's possible. Hopefully homeowners and auto insurance was on these.
Looking at the lack of snow on the Min vani and on the ground around it, its seems that it used to be under the roof structure. It appears to have fallen over as a unit - the posts bracing just gave up. The post on top of the van looks like it was standing on this side of it.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 17, 2017, 10:05:36 AM
Looking at the lack of snow on the Min vani and on the ground around it, its seems that it used to be under the roof structure. It appears to have fallen over as a unit - the posts bracing just gave up. The post on top of the van looks like it was standing on this side of it.
yep your right.
It leaned over to the down hill side.
He has insurance on the cars but nothing on the roof.
I have seen metal joisted roofs just collapse cause the metal is perfectly strong untill it starts to bend but once it starts there is a chemical or heating action where it really weakens fast.
Cheers
gww
Three years ago we had larger amounts of snow than usual and hundreds of buildings ended up collapsing under the load. Most of them being modern pole sheds but several houses that were being lived in and couple trailer houses. From what I heard even though many of the buildings had insurance most weren't covered because the insurance companies said lack of maintenance was the cause. Basically they said since the snow wasn't a one time thing they had plenty of time to remove the snow from the roof before it caved in and since they didn't it was their fault. In a case like your neighbors where the snow came down in one event i doubt the insurance company could make that claim.
Here we have seen a few pole buildings go down almost all had white roofs . Because of our snow load and cold winter with no warm ups on a white roof the water will be running off the eves befor it will slide . My brown roof's slide at least 2 times a winter . Also don't put a 1000 feet of lumber up in the rafters .
Kbeitz do you own any flat ground other than what you made that way .
Quote from: Gearbox on March 17, 2017, 05:53:40 PM
Kbeitz do you own any flat ground other than what you made that way .
Nothing except my lower valley. I'm the one that cleared that.
My father said the ground was good for nothing because it was
always wet. After the grass started growing it kinda dried up.
At first you could not drive on it but it gets better every year.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Camp_area_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489788421)
I noticed that picture was not taken yesterday.
You made a pretty spot by clearing that.
gww
Quote from: gww on March 17, 2017, 06:19:41 PM
I noticed that picture was not taken yesterday.
You made a pretty spot by clearing that.
gww
It's about 1/3 bigger than the picture but I don;t have a better shot.
This is the valley that I live in...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Valley.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1489789453)
That shot sorta reminds me of a place in korea that I was stationed for a year when I was a youngster.
Cheers
gww
Looks like pretty country.
I thought that this was one of my best shots of my home.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Best_view_1280x960~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1489858645)
Agreed - very nice. Ever have any problems with the buildings wanting to "walk out" at the bottom when built on a steep bank like that? You know, when you see an old fence and all the post tops are leaned over toward the downhill side after decades of being there from the ground "creeping". I grew up at a place with large steep banks too and the back side of the barn seems to have pulled out a bit heading for the downhill. It's definitely trying to head for the bottom...
Years ago I had that problem with the barn. I dug a dead mans hole right
along the hard top. I glade the township did not see this. I don't thing that
would have like it one bit. I put a heavy galvanized pipe in the hole and
hooked a long cable to it. The cable runs under the floor all the way to the
back of the barn with large turnbuckles at the end. Every year I give the turnbuckles a few turn and I stopped dead the down hill slide. I might have
even brought it back up hill an inch or two.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/111MVC-157S.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489937218)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/222MVC-159S.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489937238)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/333MVC-160S.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489937259)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/444MVC-161S.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489937280)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/555MVC-158S.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489937301)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/23_inches_of_snow~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489937484)
Good thinking! That's a great idea! We used a similar idea to squeeze together a partially collapsed roof on an old equipment barn that had somewhat pancaked off the tops of the walls. Cable and turnbuckles just pulled it back together and with a little lifting with a loader it popped right back into place. Left the cable there and it'll probably still be there 200 years from now.
Your buried pipe/anchor idea - just how strong do you think that is? Do you think it would stay put if, say, you hooked it up to a 100 horse tractor like an International 966 and tried to pick it out of the ground using the 3 pt hitch? Just trying to get an idea of the grip it has. I realize it'll be stronger the more you pull on it from the side like pulling your barn back in place. I bet pulling from the side you could easily pull a house over.
In case you can't tell, my mind is wheeling around with all the possible ideas. That's the problem with me. I don't usually come up with a simple idea like your pipe in the ground, but once I'm opened up to the idea I can think of all sorts of uses for it. Just wish I was smart enough to think of things to begin with but I never was that smart...
I don't know how strong it is and I cant say that it was my idea.
We did stuff like that when I was in the army. I took the idea
from what I learned when I was in.
I do know that's it's working and I'm just guessing that that pipe
just has to move some with all the pull that I got on it. I don't
think that I will have to worry about it for my lifetime. I have
another problem with the lower side of my shop that I need to
work on this spring. I think I loaded it to heavy and my poles
are sinking into the ground. So I got to jack it up and add more
post. You can in the first picture the dip in the roof line.
second picture you can see that I did not put many post under
it when I built it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Roof_line_dip.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489940358)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/NEWSHED4.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1489940529)
My Lord, it sure is a lot of work to build in the mountains, isn't it? Did you put strong flat rocks in the bottoms of your holes? Or anything like that? It was an undisturbed bank and not fill, right? I don't know a whole lot about excavations processes but I know that little things like that make a big difference. How will you jack it and add more post?
Don't get me wrong - I'm not questioning anything you've done or are doing, I'm simply trying to learn more so's maybe I can offer a better suggestion. I doubt it cause you're much smarter than me but I like having a bunch of different brains thinking on a problem because it's just better that way!
The ground was what I would say was marsh type ground. I dug the holes
down as far as I could reach. No rocks or cement. I had no money at all
when I built on to my shop. Working at the time in Christmas trees I only
got paid once a year. So it's no wonder my poles sank and i also had
3000 small gas engines on shelves on the walls. All the lumber at that
time came from old houses that I took down for the wood. I still think
that it's holding up good for what I put into it. I also think it will out last
me. I dug the dirt out from under it years later just to gain more room
for all the junk I seem to acquire. That's in the very right side of this
picture. a lot of people get a good laugh at the garage doors on the
second floor. I had the door and no lumber so I used what I had.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Barn_and_shop.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1489947354)
Overhead doors are nice in a shop .
Had 2 in my last shop when I lived I my home town.
Liked to open them up in nice wheather for the air movement and sun light .
Bruno
So ya made do with what ya had - wonderful! I understand all of it. I'm glad it's served you well thus far.
I love that picture out across the pond.
I also love the garage doors and like Bruno said it would be great on a nice day.
Are you going to come up with something creative concerning your added post height? Something that you can come along and increase the length as needed when she starts sagging the roof line again? Something like the cellar adjustable posts that slide in and out for different heights then you pin it.
It took about 20 years for it to droop. I think if I jack the droop back real
slow and add more post that it will out last me. Years ago I bought two
antique tractor trailer jacks that lift the trailer off the truck. I never again
seen any more like them . They have two spots to put the jack handle.
High and low speed. I jacked up the center of my BIG barn with just one
of them real easy. They are about 4 feet tall when closed up and will jack
out to about 6 feet. Kinda heavy to move around but they sure come in
handy.
That sounds like the ticket, don't it? I hope you share pics of that project as I'm sure there's others that are having sagging building problems.
I've never seen the landing gear with a different place for the handle for different speeds. I've only ever seen the handle moves in for low, out for high speed.
After driving rig doing restaurant delivery I was yard jockey for a few years. I've dropped and hooked more rigs/trailers than should be legal. Most of the other yard jockeys have the yard mules that do all that without having to leave the truck.
I had to do it the old fashioned way. If I never touch another landing gear handle again it will be too soon! :D
What would landing gear jacks be rated for ? I'm sure a full size farm
barn was over doing it. I'm working on part of my large barn now. I
took a few shots of my old jacks. It's really dark so the pictures aren't
the best.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc05460.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490135631)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc05466.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490135658)
I believe the landing gears are rated for a minimum of 20 tons a pair. More than likely they're rated for 40 ton as a pair. I remember having a 5th wheel let loose once while making a hard over turn in the middle of a street in the city. I guess the latch wasn't all the way hooked or something. Which is weird cause I always did a tug test every time I backed under a trailer and before I cranked up the landing gear. Anyway, the trailer come off the 5th wheel plate and sat on top of the tires. I was stuck right there. Had to crank up the loaded trailer, which was overweight, with nothing but the landing gear. It was hard but it did it without feeling like it was going to break or anything like that. I had that street blocked off for about a half hour cause I had to take breaks here and there cause it was so hard. I believe that if you can crank your landing gear with nothing but the handle and can still move it by hand you won't break anything even in low gear.
figure 36 on the tandem I would bet 40,000 and so at least 20,000 on left one
When I had to jack up the center of the large barn to replace
some rafters I never moved the handle to the low gear. That
was the heaviest thing that I ever had to jack. I think that it
would take forever in the lower gear. It takes long enough in
high. I wonder how old these jacks are. I got four of them.
I don't think that they are that old as I still see some on trailers around here. Used to sandblast them things along with the trailers that gave them rides. Never thought of them as building jacks. kool idea.
Somewhere I have seen a guy that had a bunch of them jacks with a piece of heavy angle welded to the top section so when the jack was fully retracted the angle was at ground level. To lift a small building he could slip the angle iron under the sill and crank the jacks.
I went to the junkyard today and got the head stock and tail stock parts
that I need to start building the lathe attachment for my saw mill. I can't
wait to see the neat stuff I can make with this attachment. Now if the
snow would just go away.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05469.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490211960)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05471.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490212062)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Lathe_attach2Cent.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490212091)
I'm simply so envious of your junkyard situation that I seldom have words for it. It's a good thing I don't have one around here like you do cause I'd have even more stuff laying around.
It'll be interesting to see how far you can make a perfectly round pole bend into a u shape. Use a bank tree, leaner, lathe it up then let it sit in the sun for 6 months to dry quick on one side. I bet you can come up with all sorts of shapes that way. But when it all equalizes it'll probably tear stuff down...
I want to tie the rotation of the log in with the travel of the carriage
so I can make spiraled beams. I'm going to do this with a zero-max.
This is the example that I could find. I want to make large porch beams.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/spiral_wood_beam.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490222125)
This is what I will do with that funny looking chunk of steel you see
on the ground. It's going to be my tail stock.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Tail_stock_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490223003)
The other part the head stock.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Head_stock_2~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490223680)
Good idea Kbeitz 8)
Will you be able to get absolute replicating with a zero-max tranny? Seems to me you'd need an actual gearbox of some sort. Like maybe an old motorcycle transmission or something. I've got a shaft drive Kawasaki 800 if you need one.
That's what is nice about the Zero-max.... absolute Accurate speed holding. No "wear-in" period / constant speed operation.
The general principle of operation of Adjustable Speed Drives gives infinitely variable and adjustable speed by changing the distance that four or more one-way clutches rotate the output shaft when they move back and forth successively.
Externally, the Zero-Max Adjustable Speed Drive consists of a rugged, sealed cast case, an input shaft, output shaft and speed control. Speed of the output shaft is regulated precisely and easily through a control lever
http://www.zero-max.com/cd-adjustable-speed-drives
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Xero-max.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490307129)
I remember studying about those gearboxes and I would love to have a few but have never even seen one in real life. They are also to rich for my blood and I can't afford them.
Weren't you able to find at least one in the junkyard?
Do you ever find more?
Where is a good place to find them? Were they used on a certain type of machinery more than others?
Quote from: Ox on March 24, 2017, 08:50:43 AM
I remember studying about those gearboxes and I would love to have a few but have never even seen one in real life. They are also to rich for my blood and I can't afford them.
Weren't you able to find at least one in the junkyard?
Do you ever find more?
Where is a good place to find them? Were they used on a certain type of machinery more than others?
You can buy them on E-bay.
I cleaned out a few textile factory's. I got 88 Zero-maxes and 9 Uling drives.
I got 100's of motors and gearboxes of all kinds and many DC drives.
I wish I had some newer PLC's and VFD's The Uling drive is another unique
working piece of technology. I also got a lot of Zero-max linear actuators
They are threadless, mechanical, screw-type devices designed to convert
rotary motion into precise linear motion and thrust using rolling element
ball bearings but I haven't found a use for them yet. Maybe I need to put
them on E-bay. I also got some 3 phase PM motors with single phase drivers.
Nothing like I ever seen before. I found that if I chuck one up in my lathe
and spin it and directly wire it up to a second motor it will turn one to one.
I'm building a 3 point bank mower and I'm going to put one of those motors
on my PTO of my tractor and the second one one my mowing deck. I will
have a 3 phase bank mowing machine. Motors are rated at 3HP.
I could talk about all my junk for days.
K
I like hearing about the capabilities of junk, cause I don't know myself and it is hard to go junking if you don't know what to look for and what you find will do for you.
Thanks
gww
One of my favorite past times is junking. If I find something that I don't
know what it is then I buy it and take it home to research it and take it
apart to find out how it works. Hands on learning. It's the best way.
Hands on learning, been doing it since I was in diapers! Still take lots of thing apart to see how they can be repurposed. Sounds like your linear actuators can be put to good use.
Our junkyards are junk compared to yours. I couldn't get a rusted out wheelbarrow with a flat tire around here.
Quote from: RazrRebel on March 24, 2017, 12:13:20 PM
Our junkyards are junk compared to yours. I couldn't get a rusted out wheelbarrow with a flat tire around here.
I think most junkyards are like that. You got to hit them almost every
day to find the good stuff and you gotta find it before the next junkie
gets to it and then you got to take the time to unbolt or cut off what
you need. On top of all that you need to be very good friends with the
owner or your not going to get anything. It really helps to take sodas
in on a hot day and hand them out to the workers. In return they will
save thing out for you so they don't get cut up. The yard I go to everything
gets cut within a few hours after it come in.
I'm working one one of two face-plates for the lathe.
This is 12" X 1" solid steel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Face_plate_A1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490722817)
I really enjoy following your creativity!
Hey.... Thanks... That's what this forum is all about...
I got the fist one done. Now to start on the second one.
Anyone have any hard 4" x 1/2" lag bolts for sale?
I need around 10.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Face_plate_A2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490727133)
I put it back in the lathe and put some alignment circles on it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Face_plate_A3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490728240)
Finishing up the second one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Face_plat_B1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490735355)
Looking good, 8)
A little more work today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Head_stock_with_face_plate_a.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490823191)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Head_stock_with_face_plate_b.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490823243)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Tale_stock_shaft_with_face_plate.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490823292)
I found a better picture of what I'm trying to do.
I hope to cut some cants that will look like this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twist.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490824077)
That will work if the feed and rotation is timed right. And will look cool.
The timing will be done with a Zero-max. That takes all the work out of it.
popcorn_smiley ;D
Do the zeromaxs have a click stop throw or infinite like hydrostatic?
Quote from: Ox on March 30, 2017, 09:17:00 AM
Do the zeromaxs have a click stop throw or infinite like hydrostatic?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/How_a_zero_max_works.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490887421)
Working on the tail stock today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Tale_stock_shaft_with_face_plate_c.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490887582)
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 30, 2017, 11:24:01 AM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/How_a_zero_max_works.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490887421)
Huh? ? ? I think I understand. So with enough clutches, it will be a smooth linear movement - no pulsing? These drives are one direction only, correct? What happens when you reverse the direction on you head (assuming that is what is driving the zeromax)? I guess you will have to disengage the drive and set the new side to cut in your pattern?
Drive the input either direction will turn the output only in one direction.
You can buy different Zero-max's with reverse but I never seem one.
You get very smooth linear movement because one clutch engages before
the last one disengages. I will disengage the drive at the end of each cut.
Here is a video showing the inside of one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWYVpmDeQlI
Here is a better video showing you how one works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsZEVwkqPl4
A lot of cutting and welding today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Bottom_of_tail_stock.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490898852)
Is this lathe set up something you plan to make items for sale with or is it just for uses on your own projects?
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on March 30, 2017, 03:10:08 PM
Is this lathe set up something you plan to make items for sale with or is it just for uses on your own projects?
I hope to make something no one else has and that stuff always sells.
I meant to ask - the lever on the zeromax that you move to get more or less speed - does it have detents in it or is it smooth like a hydrostatic lever would be? You know, so you can match the speed perfectly again for your next trip down the mill rotating the log the exact same speed. If it has detent clicks it'll be easier - you know, like 3 clicks for this log's twist. Get to the end of the log, disengage, bring mill head back to the front and click 3 times again and off you go. Repeatable perfection. Is this how your zeromaxs are?
And concerning your videos - I saw them work, I kinda get the principle, still don't get it. :laugh: I would need one in my hands torn down so I could study it in slow motion for many, many minutes. The person who came up with that is a certifiable genius.
Quote from: Ox on March 31, 2017, 08:30:39 AM
And concerning your videos - I saw them work, I kinda get the principle, still don't get it. :laugh: I would need one in my hands torn down so I could study it in slow motion for many, many minutes. The person who came up with that is a certifiable genius.
If you take a socket ratchet and put it on a bolt and pull the handle
the bolt will turn so many degrees. Now think of three socket ratchets
all hooked to the same bolt and three different people pulling the handles.
When you finish pulling your handle the next person pulls his handle.
So the bolt never get a chance to stop turning. Adjusting the control arm
changes how far you can pull your handle.
smiley_lit_bulb smiley_clapping
So......about the throw lever. Is it smooth or clicky? How are you going to set the speed for precise repeatability?
Quote from: Ox on March 31, 2017, 08:27:17 AM
I meant to ask - the lever on the zeromax that you move to get more or less speed - does it have detents in it or is it smooth like a hydrostatic lever would be? You know, so you can match the speed perfectly again for your next trip down the mill rotating the log the exact same speed. If it has detent clicks it'll be easier - you know, like 3 clicks for this log's twist. Get to the end of the log, disengage, bring mill head back to the front and click 3 times again and off you go. Repeatable perfection. Is this how your zeromaxs are?
Zero-max's come with all different kinds of controls. The one I will be using
has a screw control Microdial with index markings on top to get repeated control.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Screw_control_zero-max.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490965505)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Microdial_zero-max.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490965830)
Fantastic! I just learned two new things in about 10 minutes. Glad I'm sitting down.
Now I gotta get out in the rain and dig a hole with the old hoe and put a pump down in there to get rid of our lake out back.
We are getting our lake today. Expecting one inch of rain today and it rained
all day yesterday.
This is a picture of the one I'm using.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Zero-max_a.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490967136)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Zero-max_b.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490967157)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Zero-max_c.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490967176)
That's awesome. What a fantastic bit of engineering. What kind of lube? I'd guess gear oil. 2nd guess ATF.
Quote from: Ox on March 31, 2017, 09:44:51 AM
That's awesome. What a fantastic bit of engineering. What kind of lube? I'd guess gear oil. 2nd guess ATF.
400 lubricant (Chevron Delo 100 Motor oil SAE 40)
:D denied...
Faceted center posts for spiral stairways..... ;)
Last night I dreamed up a problem. Most of the things I want to make with
this is twisted table legs. So I will be making 4 x 4's or 6 x 6's. My tail stock
will be at the head of the mill and the head stock at the tail end. I said to
myself how am I going to start the cut with that BIG face plate in my way?
The face plate would be great for large cuts over 12 inches but I wont be
doing much of that. So I made a small face plate for the tail stock and I will
make a small adapter to fit the head stock plate. The one for the tail stock
is all but done. Heavy rains today so all my work is inside. My shop is to full
to work inside... Come on sunshine....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Small_tail_stock_face_plate.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1490984443)
This is the bit I will use to center drill the log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Step_Drill_Bit.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1490985141)
Wood turners sometimes use a screw chuck to secure work. You could replace your center with a lag bolt. It would be easy mounting the timber. Un-mounting would be a problem unless you have a Zero-Max with a reverse.
I'm going to use grade 6 4" lags at $25.00 each. Four for each face plate.
This is good but we need to know about the gun also.
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on March 31, 2017, 11:07:11 PM
This is good but we need to know about the gun also.
I forgot that I posted that. It was 50 cal. I added pictures.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,34007.1900.html
I got side tracked the last couple of days. I had more free logs given to me.
Mostly Hemlock and Ash. Look at the first picture. The back tractor wheels
are not touching the ground. I got it home with the front wheel drive.
I had about two miles round trip for each log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05514.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173341)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05513.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173395)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05515.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173457)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05517.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173508)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05518.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173560)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05519.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173605)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05520.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173643)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05521.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491173686)
Tail stock is done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05534.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491313298)
Looks good, bud!
I was expecting somebody to learn you about how you transported those logs and how dangerous it was. ::)
I was thinking more that you have to worry a little about the tractor front wheel gearing going out. Had to replace them on dads. Of course I do things like that and so am surprized I don't have to fix more stuff then we do.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: Ox on April 04, 2017, 12:47:17 PM
Looks good, bud!
I was expecting somebody to learn you about how you transported those logs and how dangerous it was. ::)
It's not as dangerous as it looks. I got arch brakes and I had them set on.
Tractor was in a pull at all times. No way would I even try to move it with
out them. I bet it would have jackknifed with out them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Brakes_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1491333087)
Absolutely. I was thinking to myself, "To an untrained observer that would look dangerous!" Looks to me like another day on the farm, nothing more. :laugh:
Rain rain rain... You can sure tell that it's April around here.
This is to big to work on in my shop so not much done.
I got the shafts on each end that the chain will run on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Shaft_one.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491340135)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Long_shot_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491340236)
How long is that doing to be?
No snow over there?
Quote from: Peter Drouin on April 04, 2017, 07:44:09 PM
How long is that doing to be?
No snow over there?
I think I can put a 10 foot log on it with no problem.
I want it to do at least 8 foot for porch post.
I will also use it for shorter post for table legs.
Kbeitz--very interesting project! You are an amazing fabricator. Question: as that log turns, have you calculated the twisting effect on your saw blade? I would think there would be all kinds of pressure on the teeth, perhaps requiring different tooth and set configurations, not to mention blade guides. For example, on my LT40, if I have a log that even slightly turns when I haven't set the log clamp tightly, the blade pinches and pops off the wheels. I say this from the perspective of someone with ZERO fabrication skills, :-[ sitting with a cup of coffee at the computer, trying to get his brain running :D ;D :D. All the best, Rob.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVdolzAW4eU
gww
Quote from: 78NHTFY on April 05, 2017, 10:41:26 AM
Kbeitz--very interesting project! You are an amazing fabricator. Question: as that log turns, have you calculated the twisting effect on your saw blade? I would think there would be all kinds of pressure on the teeth, perhaps requiring different tooth and set configurations, not to mention blade guides. For example, on my LT40, if I have a log that even slightly turns when I haven't set the log clamp tightly, the blade pinches and pops off the wheels. I say this from the perspective of someone with ZERO fabrication skills, :-[ sitting with a cup of coffee at the computer, trying to get his brain running :D ;D :D. All the best, Rob.
Oh yes I thought about it a lot. I'm sure hoping it works. The way i'm
looking at it is table top bandsaws are made to make curved cuts. So
I think that a 1/4 turn in a 10 foot long log should br doable . I guess
we will find out.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 05, 2017, 11:55:33 AM
Quote from: 78NHTFY on April 05, 2017, 10:41:26 AM
Kbeitz--very interesting project! You are an amazing fabricator. Question: as that log turns, have you calculated the twisting effect on your saw blade? I would think there would be all kinds of pressure on the teeth, perhaps requiring different tooth and set configurations, not to mention blade guides. For example, on my LT40, if I have a log that even slightly turns when I haven't set the log clamp tightly, the blade pinches and pops off the wheels. I say this from the perspective of someone with ZERO fabrication skills, :-[ sitting with a cup of coffee at the computer, trying to get his brain running :D ;D :D. All the best, Rob.
Oh yes I thought about it a lot. I'm sure hoping it works. The way i'm
looking at it is table top bandsaws are made to make curved cuts. So
I think that a 1/4 turn in a 10 foot long log should br doable . I guess
we will find out.
If it is a problem you could always put a larger set in the blade and if that isn't enough you could put a bottom jaw on your blade guides or put two more blade guides below the blade in addition to the two that are already on top.
K
I am thinking that your bigest problim when making the type of post that you showed you want to make is going to be securing the slab that you are also making to the log while you cut so it does not hang. If I am even clear in my description.
Good luck
gww
Quote from: gww on April 05, 2017, 02:58:43 PM
K
I am thinking that your bigest problim when making the type of post that you showed you want to make is going to be securing the slab that you are also making to the log while you cut so it does not hang. If I am even clear in my description.
Good luck
gww
It's going to moving so slow that I guess I could drive a screw in after the
cut is started or maybe a zip tie. I'm open for ideas.
One difference with this and a woodworking bandsaw is with the woodworking bandsaw you cut the curve 90° to the blade and the radius is limited by the width of the blade (1¼") where here you will be making a curve cut in the same direction as the blade (width of desired post plus waste maybe 8").
(I can see it in my head but not sure if this describes my thought well)
As mentioned before extra set may help? Blade guides far apart to allow blade to twist? And perhaps cutting it down to size with multiple cuts so the slab is thin enough that you can lift it away to let "upper side" of the cut rise without binding.
It will be interesting to see.
A planer head might work better than a band blade? Kind of like this only turning the log much less.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73hu9FXaUtU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73hu9FXaUtU)
K
QuoteIt's going to moving so slow that I guess I could drive a screw in after the
cut is started or maybe a zip tie. I'm open for ideas.
I think either would work, I just mentioned it to keep you thinking.
I think if the turning has a good solid speed with no play that if you go slow enough, it would probly work. I doubt you get best use of your blade as I have read that slow cutting dulls the blade faster.
I am waiting to see how it goes.
Cheers
gww
Tomorow I should be mounting my gear boxes. My right angle box is
24 to one ratio. There is just so many things to do in the spring.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05551.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491429701)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05550.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491429749)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05549.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491429824)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05548.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491429868)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05547.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491429949)
The shafts with the chain wont be that long when it's finished.
I want to set the lathe on the mill to see where I want to cut
them to fit.
I got a lot done today. I need to change out one sprocket.
It's turning to slow. That's not going to happen today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sprockets_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491684560)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sprockets__2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491684630)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sprockets__3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491684684)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sprockets__4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491684741)
You do have a few extra sprockets there and not one the correct size? Well, you sure put old Rube Goldberg to shame ;) :D
Mighty impressive - can't wait to see the end result! 8)
K, looks like you broke the sprocket bank. :D Can't wait to see your project in action. You're the man.
After supper I went back out in my shop and found the sprocket that I need.
I will have to bore it out to 1". I'm hoping to get it on tomorrow.
Then all I have to do is make guards and paint it.
I also need to make the arm that bolts to the head and to the chain.
I'm thinking that I will also need to make a drag brake for the face
plate shaft. The zero-max can freewheel in the forward direction. So if the
log is heavy on one side it will rotate on its own.
Sir, do you ever sleep? :D
Quote from: fishfighter on April 09, 2017, 06:37:31 AM
Sir, do you ever sleep? :D
Sleep will come a little easier tonight. The designing part is all done.
Thanks to all.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 08, 2017, 05:23:57 PM
You do have a few extra sprockets there and not one the correct size? Well, you sure put old Rube Goldberg to shame ;) :D
Mighty impressive - can't wait to see the end result! 8)
I got so many sprockets but it will take me time to put them in one
spot. I'm building a wall rack to hold them all. They are now in 5 gal.
bucks and boxes so I'm not sure I have what I need. E-bay is just
around the corner. Right now I'm getting around 1/8 of a full turn
with one full pull of the long chain. I would like to get around 2 full
turns with a full pull with the zero-max at top speed. Then I could
adjust the zero-max down to 1/4 of a turn. I'm thinking 1/4 of a turn
is what I will be using the most.
So, with the drag brake concept you put the heaviest side of the log off to the freewheeling side then crank on the brake until it holds and start cutting?
What happens if the weight and brake combination weight is too much for your drivetrain? Will the zeromax slip or quit working when it reaches its max or can it break? Do you have a shearpin somewhere? Or is my thought just not possible for a worry? Just trying to learn... :)
The Zero-max freewheels very easy in one direction.
The drag brake only needs to put enough drag on the
system to keep the log from turning on its own.
Here is a picture of something that I bet not many
people have seen. This is special drag brake rope made
just for this kind of work. It's a cotton rope with steel
cable inside. I got around 200 feet of this stuff. The
brake is all mounted and work great.
I got my gears bored out and mounted today. Now I can
get 1/8 to 3/4 turn on the log with one pull of the chain.
Or 22.5 to 270 degrees of a circle. A 90 degree is what
I want.
Ready for some guards next.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drag_brake_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491758023)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drag_brake__2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491758098)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drag_brake__3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491758144)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drag_brake__4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491758198)
I started on the guards today but enough is enough. I'm taking a break...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Guard_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491767009)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Guard_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491767054)
Fantastic! Are you still amazed at how much time all this fabricating takes? Or is it easy for you and tough for me which makes me always be amazed at how long it takes?
I never knew about the brake rope stuff. I learned my one thing for the day!
tried to saw birch 3in sled runers/a friend got me some blades maybe 3/4 wide but couldn't get it to work
A quarter turn will look good but I think that you will really like a 1/2 turn better . A few years back I made some walking sticks that I steamed and twisted . I tried to get a full twist but never got that ,3/4 was about the best I could get . That was too busy and the half twist looked the best and a1/4 was a clean ,smooth look .
Quote from: Ox on April 09, 2017, 06:06:25 PM
Fantastic! Are you still amazed at how much time all this fabricating takes? Or is it easy for you and tough for me which makes me always be amazed at how long it takes?
I never knew about the brake rope stuff. I learned my one thing for the day!
I guess that it is easy for me because it's all I do all the time. One project
done and another one gets started. Some days I say that's enough and I
just get on my motorcycle and go for a long ride.
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on April 09, 2017, 10:29:45 PM
A quarter turn will look good but I think that you will really like a 1/2 turn better . A few years back I made some walking sticks that I steamed and twisted . I tried to get a full twist but never got that ,3/4 was about the best I could get . That was too busy and the half twist looked the best and a1/4 was a clean ,smooth look .
I will try them both thanks.
Neat project, I'm interested to hear how it works out.
I would like to make something similar to make table legs like this, but I don't want to have to do it all with hammer and chisel (maybe put it on a lathe and use some kind of router mount linked to a gear somehow?):
(https://s24.postimg.org/ch5i57i85/Lorimer_twist_leg_table.jpg)
Larger view:
https://s8.postimg.org/ayvhjnx85/Lorimer_twisted_leg_table.jpg
I like the twist because it kind of mirrors the way trees grow (except the twist on these table legs would be for trees in the Southern Hemisphere, rather than the Northern Hemisphere)...Did you ever notice the way the bark on trees twists counterclockwise as it goes up the tree? I noticed that sitting in a deer stand one day...I wondered why and then realized that it's probably because the leaves follow the sun (from E to S to W), and the branches follow the leaves, and the bark follows the branches...
Wow, that table is valued at $7-10k! Can't wait to see Kbeitz build a cabin with twisted timbers. That should be worth millions! :D
Interesting thought about the twisted bark on trees. I'll have to pay more attention in the woods now...
I finished up the three guards today. One more to go.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Guard_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491862453)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Guard_4~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491862641)
Quote from: SineWave on April 10, 2017, 12:28:26 PM
Neat project, I'm interested to hear how it works out.
I would like to make something similar to make table legs like this, but I don't want to have to do it all with hammer and chisel (maybe put it on a lathe and use some kind of router mount linked to a gear somehow?):
(https://s24.postimg.org/ch5i57i85/Lorimer_twist_leg_table.jpg)
Larger view:
https://s8.postimg.org/ayvhjnx85/Lorimer_twisted_leg_table.jpg
I like the twist because it kind of mirrors the way trees grow (except the twist on these table legs would be for trees in the Southern Hemisphere, rather than the Northern Hemisphere)...Did you ever notice the way the bark on trees twists counterclockwise as it goes up the tree? I noticed that sitting in a deer stand one day...I wondered why and then realized that it's probably because the leaves follow the sun (from E to S to W), and the branches follow the leaves, and the bark follows the branches...
Witch way are you looking at the twist ? From the top down or bottom up ?
This tree is in the Dominican Republic.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twus_snallt.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1491863160)
Sears sold a lathe that would cut a twist. They called it a Sears Router Crafter.
https://books.google.com/books?id=CYy5hoY-tZwC&pg=PA358&lpg=PA358&dq=sears+lathe+can+cut+a+twist&source=bl&ots=GM_AnllIp0&sig=_pcGmNg7kXI0DfPTMrnuf-Qne3U&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiO1dG295rTAhUjjVQKHZKOCvAQ6AEIQzAG#v=onepage&q=sears%20lathe%20can%20cut%20a%20twist&f=false
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 10, 2017, 06:26:20 PM
Witch way are you looking at the twist ? From the top down or bottom up ?
This tree is in the Dominican Republic.
I forget, I'll have to look next time I'm in the woods. Look for yourself – they all seem to twist, and they all seem to twist in the same direction, or they did where I was sitting.
As you look up from the bottom of the tree, I believe the twist is counterclockwise, which is where I got my theory that it's caused by the leaves following the sun from E to S to W (in other words, from 9 o'clock to 6 o'clock to 3 o'clock). Not sure whether vines would grow the same way, though it seems as though they should...
The reason I ask is because to me looking at my picture it looks like the twist
goes to the right as it goes up. A right twist to me would be clockwise.
Maybe it's because the Dom Rep is only 19°N latitude, and the coriolis isn't as strong there. :D That's my story and I'm sticking to it! (Sorry for the OT hijack!)
Kbeitz,
It dawned on me, you are going to need to modify your final drive. You need to have a reversing gear after your speed controller. Then you could cut both left and right twist. Then you would have the right timbers to sell for both the east and west coast... :D
You guys are making me dizzy and I don't need any help in that department... ;)
Looks good, waiting to see how it cuts. thumbs-up thumbs-up
It almost looks like you could mount a small 14 inch electric bandsaw with a 12 inch cut on it and have a dedicated machine that would use more forgiving narrow bands.
Guards ?? Whats that . Prototypes don't need guards . Just thinking with my morning coffee. Would a narrower blade let it turn in the cut better .
Guards are done and painted. All that left is the connecting arm.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Guard__painted_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491923148)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Guard__painted_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491923196)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Drag_brake_adjustment.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1491923231)
8) :laugh:
Sinewave,
There are discussions about righthand and lefthand twist growth in trees. Most trees that twist do have a righthand growth, some more pronounced than others, but there are plenty in the northern hemisphere that grow with a lefthand twist. Many also grow with no apparent twist at all. It's something that sticks out to me with every tree I see. Some old timers would say lefthand growth makes bad lumber. I don't have enough sawing experience to know. Severe twist makes bad dimensional lumber because no matter how it's cut there is much slope of grain.
This one I own...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/atlantis_wood_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1491999776)
Quote from: Jemclimber on April 12, 2017, 07:00:57 AM
Sinewave,
There are discussions about righthand and lefthand twist growth in trees. Most trees that twist do have a righthand growth, some more pronounced than others, but there are plenty in the northern hemisphere that grow with a lefthand twist. Many also grow with no apparent twist at all. It's something that sticks out to me with every tree I see. Some old timers would say lefthand growth makes bad lumber. I don't have enough sawing experience to know. Severe twist makes bad dimensional lumber because no matter how it's cut there is much slope of grain.
Interesting, thanks. So you're saying the wood fibers
also twist, not just the bark? I'm not a sawyer yet (except for woodworking), so I've never opened up a whole tree to see what's inside...
KBeitz, your walking stick seems to follow what I've seen, as opposed to that vine or tree in the Dom Rep...
Now (with yesterday's full moon), I'm wondering whether the moon might have something to do with the twist. Given its tidal influence, where in a sense it makes gravity less and more powerful, maybe it makes it alternately easier (and then harder) for plants to move water up to the leaves. The Old Farmer's Almanac sure seems to think so! (Here on the coast, we live by the moon and the tides...)
Well I got it sitting on the mill. If the weather is nice maybe tomorrow will
be a testing day. I snapped a 1/4 cable trying to load it on my mill.
I was using my log turner to lift it off the trailer. Block and tackle is
hanging from the roof. This lathe sure is heavy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cable_snaped.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492036263)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Ready_for_testing_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492036318)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Ready_for_testing_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492036376)
Going to need a video or it didn't happen. :D
Good Luck. That is some fancy work you done.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 12, 2017, 06:33:49 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Ready_for_testing_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492036318)
What is that additional silver strap over the face plate for? Another guard or a blade stop so you don't cut into the gear head? ;)
Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 12, 2017, 08:39:45 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 12, 2017, 06:33:49 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Ready_for_testing_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492036318)
What is that additional silver strap over the face plate for? Another guard or a blade stop so you don't cut into the gear head? ;)
If you look back in the first picture that silver strap is my lifting hook.
It helps to keep it upright when lifting.
This is how it's tied in to the mill head.
I was wondering if my wheelchair motor had enough power to move
the mill head and also have enough power to pull the chain to run the
lathe. I never tested it before for pushing strength. The little motor could
slide my feet across the sawdust so no problem there.
If I use this a lot I think I will make two new plug in limit switches so
I don't saw into the face plate or bust the back sprocket off the lathe.
Right now there is no safety stop. Thinking about it... It would not take
anything but two brackets on the lathe to hit the already mounted limit
switches. Guess what I'll be doing in the morn.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Chain_bracket_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492056373)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Chain_bracket__2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492056475)
K
It looks like you are going to have to time it perfect on your stops cause you don't look to have a lot of room to work with.
Good luck
gww.
PS How many times are you going to have to run it with the blade raised to get your timeing right? I wonder if the timeing will change at all when you are actually cutting?
Quote from: gww on April 13, 2017, 08:36:54 AM
K
It looks like you are going to have to time it perfect on your stops cause you don't look to have a lot of room to work with.
Good luck
gww.
PS How many times are you going to have to run it with the blade raised to get your timeing right? I wonder if the timeing will change at all when you are actually cutting?
I ran the head about 10 time to get the timing where I want it.
The limit switch stops it on a dime.
I had to mod the chain holder to hold both the upper and lower chains.
The bracket wanted to raise up high enough the the push bar would
flip up and over the chain.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Chain_bracket_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492093892)
Limit switch stops are done. The clamp is just temporary.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Limit_switch.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492094042)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Limit_switxh_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492094088)
Last I made a pointer...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Pointer.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492094221)
Now all I need is enough guts to fire this thing up.
I will be starting with 7 deg. blades.
Here, let me send you some of my guts. I hate that feeling when you're sure that everything's okay but you never know for 100%! I wish you all the luck I can muster. You've earned it.
K
One thing you prove to me over and over is that there is an answer for almost every issue that comes up.
Cheers
gww
smiley_clapping Hey... I'm smiling .... Big time... It works.
Thinking about it you would not think that you could turn
a chunk of wood against the blade the way I wanted to do.
But it worked... Ha Ha.... smiley_fiddler
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twist_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492115225)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twist_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492115267)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twist_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492115300)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twist_4.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492115324)
That is fantastic kb. I wouldn't have thought it would work either. Very impressive sir.
More to come....
https://youtu.be/hG-u9oqWFl8
Wonder if you could get another 110° of twist in that length, I bet that's a first other than putting the steam too it. Great job Kbeitz
Pretty cool! Looks like it didn't go the full 90°, though. A full 180° would be pretty awesome as well. The only problem is you need to calculate how long your post is going to be so you can make the ends "square up" to your regular framing. I can see a lot of testing to put calibration marks on your zeromax.
I can see it now, there will be a oddity/museum were there is not a single straight board in a cabin yet it is structurally sound. You will be able to sell those twisted beams made to order for $300 (per BF)!!
8)
$300 (per BF).... Would not that be nice...
How many BF do you want ?
That piece of wood came out darned nice...congrats! 8)
I could see those twisted posts used in a barroom...people would think they were twisted before they'd had one drink! :D
First cuts I went real slow not knowing what it was going to do to the blade.
I will speed thing up until something starts fighting me. It did turn a full
90 deg. on each pass. I will try a 180 deg. cut after get more comfortable
with this new setup.
https://youtu.be/CRLiOgPA6gk
Quote from: SineWave on April 13, 2017, 07:22:16 PM
That piece of wood came out darned nice...congrats! 8)
Kinda like a Sinewave huh....
Thanks...
Ok... How do I sticker this stuff...?
I would not want to see it get twisted all up after all this work...
https://youtu.be/7xXSPSqUsD0
Your rig reminds me of a progressive-beveling attachment a guy made for a circular saw so that he could change the bevel along the length of a plank for boatbuilding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDd12SRv2As
Pretty clever ... then he improved the design by making it so he could use a socket wrench instead of a lever to change the bevel while cutting.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 13, 2017, 07:37:46 PM
Ok... How do I sticker this stuff...?
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fnorthlandphoto.com%2Fcampfire%2Fimages%2Fsmiles%2Flookaround.gif&hash=f2b5ddf791ee958f4113fd5ebb4fee593d6a1b83)
Pretty DanG neat, KB. You're amazing.
If M.C. Escher had designed a house, you could build it now. :)
Quote from: SineWave on April 13, 2017, 07:40:01 PM
Your rig reminds me of a progressive-beveling attachment a guy made for a circular saw so that he could change the bevel along the length of a plank for boatbuilding:
Pretty clever ... then he improved the design by making it so he could use a socket wrench instead of a lever to change the bevel while cutting.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 13, 2017, 07:37:46 PM
Ok... How do I sticker this stuff...?
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fnorthlandphoto.com%2Fcampfire%2Fimages%2Fsmiles%2Flookaround.gif&hash=f2b5ddf791ee958f4113fd5ebb4fee593d6a1b83)
Thanks... I liked the video...
If there is not a name or method of this procedure, What will you be naming this.
There are so many uses for this my head won't stop spinning. 8)
K
As always, you impress me.
gww
"Rifled Posts and Spindles"...?
Might be neat to cut a "rifled" piece and then turn parts of it on a lathe (like a spindle) but leave enough of the original "meat" to show the rifling in the original milling cut...
Or maybe take a "rifled" post and then make flutes all up and down it with a router for decorative effect (and also to emphasize/call attention to the rifling)...
I'm sure there's all kinds of neat things you could do with this with some creative thinking. Local high-dollar builders and architects might be real interested in this product, if they knew it was available.
I'm also real curious what the grain figure looks like as a result. Does it look unusual/pretty? Or does it just look like it's all runout for the full length of the cut? I bet if you cut through some burl/fiddleback grain, like where it almost looks iridescent in walnut, it might look real interesting...
Nice work! Care to take it to the next level? How about adding entasis to the columns... smiley_book2_page
;D
Quote from: redbeard on April 13, 2017, 07:53:15 PM
If there is not a name or method of this procedure, What will you be naming this.
There are so many uses for this my head won't stop spinning. 8)
Open for sugustings...
A controlled twist,how about that!!!!!!!!!!!
Now you can market them. Good job.
Congratulations, glad to see it working. 8) 8)
It will be interesting to see how they dry.
Quote from: 21incher on April 14, 2017, 07:43:41 AM
Congratulations, glad to see it working. 8) 8)
It will be interesting to see how they dry.
Hopefully with a twist... :D
Stickering is an interesting question. but what about a rifling planer?
Beitzing: The act of cutting a timber into a bizarre and unnatural twist.
The are self-stickering.
I know I know I know I know .... Cut twisted stickers...
K, you are the man. Outstanding. Really thanks for sharing your build.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 14, 2017, 08:34:15 AM
I know I know I know I know .... Cut twisted stickers...
Or use the offcuts!
Twisted Timbers® and Twisted Stickers!
Quote from: Crusarius on April 14, 2017, 08:22:17 AM
Stickering is an interesting question. but what about a rifling planer?
Imagine feeding those puppies through a table saw ... don't stand behind the blade!!!
Nickname you the propeller man. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1973.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1401146335)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1975.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1401146360)
I watched someone else make a propeller but it was unintentional. :o
I never knew saw lumber could be so much fun...
Check this out. Twisted octagons...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twisted_octagon_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492182608)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twisted_octagon_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492182699)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twisted_octagon_5.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492182748)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twisted_octagon_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492182771)
Now, if you had a router to run in place of the blade you could cut some flutes that would add more definition to the post.
Don't let goat see this or he will be selling them world wide for $300 each. ;D
Is it going to bother you if others start copying your idea? I have have a transmission from a snapper lawn mower that would be a good start a building a lathe like yours.
that would be kool in 1x material to. make some really kool partition walls for lobby areas in hotels and stuff...
Maybe if you sawed Sweetgum lumber with that lathe it would lay/dry flat? ???
K
I like the look of the octagon better then the square.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on April 14, 2017, 11:43:30 AM
Is it going to bother you if others start copying your idea? I have have a transmission from a snapper lawn mower that would be a good start a building a lathe like yours.
Nope... Go for it... You really cant stop people from copying your stuff today.
They make one little change and say... My unit is different I din't copy yours.
So I don't let it bother me... But hey... You gotta post pictures...
Looks like I'm going to need to put an adjustable weight on the lathe head.
I put a bigger ash log on and one side is really heavy. So before I saw any
more I will make the weight on the end of the center shaft that I can move
in or out and swing it 360°'s to the light end.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Weight.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492207642)
Twisted Octagans has my vote.
That counter weight idea sounds great.
Times 2, fish. Fantastic idea. Make that lathe think it has a balanced log on it.
Kev - if you really wanna make people look twice, make a 3 or 5 sided barber post!
I got side tracked today... Family Dinner...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Soups_hot~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492269975)
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 15, 2017, 11:26:30 AM
I got side tracked today... Family Dinner...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Soups_hot~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492269975)
What's cooking in the pot?
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on April 15, 2017, 11:36:31 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 15, 2017, 11:26:30 AM
I got side tracked today... Family Dinner...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Soups_hot~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492269975)
What's cooking in the pot?
Sancocho...
Sancocho (from the Spanish verb sancochar, "to parboil") is a traditional soup (often considered a stew) in several Latin American cuisines derived from the Spanish dish known as cocido.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sancocho
8:45 pm but I got my weight bracket finished.
Party is still going strong. People enjoyed the zip line today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Weight_bracket.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492304063)
That pot is almost big enough for a FF Pot Luck. :D
My work is never done. My neighbor just gave me a truck load of new
windows. He is a installer by trade and gets them for free. He said just
take them away. So I guess a new solar kiln will be on my list of things
to do. In the back of the picture is what my neighbor did with some of
the windows.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05636.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492330993)
smiley_thumbsup
A timber frame green house would be sweet.
Quote from: fishfighter on April 16, 2017, 09:44:06 AM
A timber frame green house would be sweet.
Sure would but I already have my green house and I don't have
a kiln
Adjustable off set weight is finished and works great.
Now it equal pull all 360° around.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Weight_bracket_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492359557)
Ash...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/A.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365458)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/B.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365532)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/C.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365580)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365698)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/E.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365759)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/F.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365809)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/G.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365857)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/H.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365920)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/I.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492365971)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/J.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492366015)
I could see a stack of those sitting near where you will be pouring a slab. The look on an county inspector's face when he saw those would be priceless! "Yeah, I think I can straighten those out when I put up the frame..."
You could sure make an interesting arbor or pergola with them.
All heck K. All this time I been trying to saw out the twist in a log. :D
Beitz's Lumber... Let us put a twist in your Timber.
Replace those old rotten twisted post in your old barn.
TwistedTimber.com is for sale. ;D ;D ;D
I like the octagon shapes the best. :)
Quote from: 21incher on April 16, 2017, 06:02:34 PM
TwistedTimber.com is for sale. ;D ;D ;D
I like the octagon shapes the best. :)
Yea I like the octagon better myself... I want to make some tapered ones.
Can you speed up the twister a bit ? you are short a full quarter turn . It does look good though. I want to see a half turn if it could do that. Woo hoo another neat tool !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 16, 2017, 06:05:43 PM
Quote from: 21incher on April 16, 2017, 06:02:34 PM
TwistedTimber.com is for sale. ;D ;D ;D
I like the octagon shapes the best. :)
Yea I like the octagon better myself... I want to make some tapered ones.
Entasis........ ;)
Quote from: Don_Papenburg on April 16, 2017, 09:33:58 PM
Can you speed up the twister a bit ? you are short a full quarter turn . It does look good though. I want to see a half turn if it could do that. Woo hoo another neat tool !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did make the full 1/4 turn but I forgot to make up for the ends that I cut off.
I started with a 9-1/2 foot log and trimmed it to 8 ft. So back to the drawing
board. It can be adjusted to make a 180° turn but I have not tried it yet.
From what I see so far the bigger the log I cut the less twist that I probably
can do.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Wide_twist.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492417471)
Played a little more today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05658.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492469543)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05661.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492469619)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05664.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492469703)
Yep, the octagon posts are the best! Man, there isn't going to be a round or square log for a hundred miles pretty soon! ;)
The best part of this is now I have a use for all the little 9" and
under logs. Better than firewood. With out changing the set on
the blades I don't think i can do better than a 90° twist.
K-- 8) 8) 8). Don't think there are a lot of folks around who can so quickly put together a machine of that complexity and have it run so well on the first run! Hats off to you! I toasted you with a small scotch, a splash and of course, a twist! :D .
Having recently cut many standing, dead WP from my lot, all of which saw very well dry, was thinking you might want to consider cutting/sawing stuff like that: it might reduce the likelihood of checking and bowing of your green logs, plus they are light and easy to handle.
Then, you could just attach an orbital sander to your saw, run it through the cycle, and you will have paint-ready posts!
Again, congrats on your success. All the best, Rob.
Quote from: 78NHTFY on April 17, 2017, 08:22:56 PM
K-- 8) 8) 8). Then, you could just attach an orbital sander to your saw, run it through the cycle, and you will have paint-ready posts!
Again, congrats on your success. All the best, Rob.
Oh that is a good idea I bet you have him thinking about that! 8)
Thanks for all the Thanks and all the neat ideas.
K, I am always looking for your post the first thing in the morning. Always they are impressive. ;D
Quote from: fishfighter on April 18, 2017, 06:41:21 AM
K, I am always looking for your post the first thing in the morning. Always they are impressive. ;D
Thanks... It's people like you that keeps me going...
Awesome kbeitz!! I really need to make the short trip over and check it out sometime!!
Quote from: etroup10 on April 18, 2017, 02:13:26 PM
Awesome kbeitz!! I really need to make the short trip over and check it out sometime!!
I do a fair amount of cycle ridding in Central, PA
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 18, 2017, 06:49:58 PM
Quote from: etroup10 on April 18, 2017, 02:13:26 PM
Awesome kbeitz!! I really need to make the short trip over and check it out sometime!!
I do a fair amount of cycle ridding in Central, PA
How the heck you can find time doing that when you already doing the work of 5 men? ;D Heck, when do you sleep? :D
By any chance can you fix a broken heart? Got out this morning to set some post. Dug two holes with a post hole digger and had to call it a day. >:( Yep, DanG very bad day. >:(
Quote from: fishfighter on April 18, 2017, 07:56:04 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 18, 2017, 06:49:58 PM
Quote from: etroup10 on April 18, 2017, 02:13:26 PM
Awesome kbeitz!! I really need to make the short trip over and check it out sometime!!
I do a fair amount of cycle ridding in Central, PA
How the heck you can find time doing that when you already doing the work of 5 men? ;D Heck, when do you sleep? :D
By any chance can you fix a broken heart? Got out this morning to set some post. Dug two holes with a post hole digger and had to call it a day. >:( Yep, DanG very bad day. >:(
Some days I say enough is enough and go for a cycle ride... Old Honda 400... Love it.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 18, 2017, 06:49:58 PM
Quote from: etroup10 on April 18, 2017, 02:13:26 PM
Awesome kbeitz!! I really need to make the short trip over and check it out sometime!!
I do a fair amount of cycle ridding in Central, PA
If you are go for a ride through the Richfield/Mcalisterville area let me know!
Well, you didn't say if you could fix a broken heart. ;D
They wanted to put one of those LVAD's in me a few years ago. Passed that up and glad I did. Even the transplant team is glad I did. ;D So it is day to day operations with me.
Oh, was just up dating the wife on your post. She even says they are outstanding. ;D
You said Honda 400 and brought back memories. I started motorcycles with a 1972 Honda 350 twin Scrambler. It was given to me in several boxes in pieces and a rolling frame. I put it all back together (without a manual) and got her running again and put her on the road when I was 17. It would redline at 10,500 rpm. Rode like crap and handled like it too.
Never wrecked it, though! Incredible.
I'm glad we've got who we've got on this here forum.
Quote from: fishfighter on April 18, 2017, 08:22:34 PM
Well, you didn't say if you could fix a broken heart. ;D
They wanted to put one of those LVAD's in me a few years ago. Passed that up and glad I did. Even the transplant team is glad I did. ;D So it is day to day operations with me.
Oh, was just up dating the wife on your post. She even says they are outstanding. ;D
My fix for your heart would be a Dominican woman...
Or maybe not... Seeing that you already got a good woman...
Quote from: Ox on April 18, 2017, 08:55:07 PM
You said Honda 400 and brought back memories. I started motorcycles with a 1972 Honda 350 twin Scrambler. It was given to me in several boxes in pieces and a rolling frame. I put it all back together (without a manual) and got her running again and put her on the road when I was 17. It would redline at 10,500 rpm. Rode like crap and handled like it too.
Never wrecked it, though! Incredible.
I'm glad we've got who we've got on this here forum.
I got this for a cool $1000.00... Check the millage.
An older guy had it stored in his kitchen.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/1981_Honda_CM_400_T_.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492584715)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/3f5b_1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492584765)
What year?
Nice...that's barely broken in!
I ride a Suzuki DR650 enduro bike...
I had an 81 Yamaha 650 Heritage Midnight Special that looked exactly like your bike. Funny how they all had the same basic shapes year to year, most of them anyways.
You got a decent deal on that bike for that money and mileage. I bet it's a decent ride, good handling and decent MPG to boot.
K,
As mentioned numerously before, this is fantastic, amazing job!! I'm sure you could sell a lot of twisted posts, there are so many possibilities. In my opinion, you should consider a patent on your device. Depending on where you want to go with this and what you want to do, you could also contact the mill manufacturers with your design. I could see this as an addon accessory much like the Woodmizer lathe-mizer. Congrats on your success, where you go with this is totally up to you!
amazing results! That is what i call putting a new twist on an age old skill.
As promised here is pictures of the gas powered winch that I'm building.
I got it almost finished. It will fit in any class 3 hitch. I got a very large
free walnut tree given to me but its in a very hard place to get it out.
I'm hoping this will help. Again this is all junkyard stuff except the fairlead.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05697.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492789292)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05696.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492789248)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05698.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492789380)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05700.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492789416)
Cool, but could you explain how it works? The motor is belted to a transmission or is that just a gear reducer? Direct or is there a cetrifical clutch (I don't see one)? The big lever - is that the brake for the drum? Is there some sort of forward/reverse or is it just free wheeling for payout?
No clutch needed... Long handle is brake. These little tyrannys come in handy for lots
of things.
http://www.eaton.com/FR/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1616.pdf
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Eaton_Model_6_and_7~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492814178)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Model_11.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492814880)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Eaton_tranny_control.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492819805)
OK, You are the winner of the best collection of things ever. No one is even close to you. Never knew such a small, simple thing existed. Wish I had one or two.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 22, 2017, 12:38:07 AM
OK, You are the winner of the best collection of things ever. No one is even close to you. Never knew such a small, simple thing existed. Wish I had one or two.
I have around 6 of them on the shelf. It's one thing I really watch for in the
junkyard. They came in some Garden tractors back in the 60-70's.
Other equipment also had them. Some come hooked right fast to the axle
like this one. This one came out of a powered wheel barrow.
I'm going to make a but buggy out of it...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Eaton_on_a_axle_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492838187)
I bid $300. ;D
I took a break and went to Pa plow days today...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04110.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492902104)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04109.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492902164)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04123.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492902198)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04112.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492902241)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04145.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492902282)
Nice pics. It's hilarious how they're avoiding and going around that little puddle.
Well you wouldn't want to get any dirt on you'r tractor...
I Bet there was 200 tractors there...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04115.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492951204)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04130.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492951274)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04140~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492951331)
An event that I would have enjoyed!!!
They do something similar north of here at the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas Association show...you see some amazing old equipment there!
Holy cow, I just checked for those Eaton 11 hydrostatic transmissions on ebay...they ain't cheap, even all ragged out. This bugs me to no end, because I could swear that somewhere along the line, I threw one of them away. It sure looks familiar... Can you still get parts to rebuild them KBeitz?
Quote from: SineWave on April 23, 2017, 08:56:43 AM
They do something similar north of here at the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas Association show...you see some amazing old equipment there!
Holy cow, I just checked for those Eaton 11 hydrostatic transmissions on ebay...they ain't cheap, even all ragged out. This bugs me to no end, because I could swear that somewhere along the line, I threw one of them away. It sure looks familiar... Can you still get parts to rebuild them KBeitz?
There is another little tranny called sunstrand. You can also find them on E-bay.
Parts are for sell for them there also. If you do a search on e-bay for...
Simplicity 7016 Sundstrand transmission
you see one. Its a different company but it looks the same.
Then if you search for...
Massey-Ferguson-1650-Tractor-Eaton-1100-025-Transmission
You will see that it looks almost like the same thing
Thanks, Kevin. Interesting that the one they want $325 for looks like it went through the war compared to the $85 jobbie.
So those transmissions are pretty durable? I was always leery of hydrostatic trannies in lawn tractors, at least until I got one...
At the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas show, they had these cool powered machines called "David Bradley"s ... never saw one before but they were pretty neat.
My first mill, an LT15, had 15 hp and my LT28 has 25. I think you will be cutting very slow with 13hp. But I have never built a mill, so what do I know. Looks really good. Kudos!
Quote from: SineWave on April 23, 2017, 11:23:31 AM
Thanks, Kevin. Interesting that the one they want $325 for looks like it went through the war compared to the $85 jobbie.
So those transmissions are pretty durable? I was always leery of hydrostatic trannies in lawn tractors, at least until I got one...
At the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas show, they had these cool powered machines called "David Bradley"s ... never saw one before but they were pretty neat.
Durable ? The only one I ever had problems with was a John Deere.
I had a line of the old David Bradley"s. This was the neatest one I had.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Old_Sears.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1492982329)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Davidbradley.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1492982403)
Quote from: Qweaver on April 23, 2017, 11:34:11 AM
My first mill, an LT15, had 15 hp and my LT28 has 25. I think you will be cutting very slow with 13hp. But I have never built a mill, so what do I know. Looks really good. Kudos!
My 13hp goes as as fast as I want it to... Any faster and i would have to run
to keep up...
What a simple way to operate a carriage. Thanks for sharing that! Does that little tranny have a reservoir?
Quote from: Trapper John on April 23, 2017, 10:37:10 PM
What a simple way to operate a carriage. Thanks for sharing that! Does that little tranny have a reservoir?
Post 841... See the little bottle on top...
Kevin, that winch is too cool. I was wondering why I have never seen anyone use such a tranny to operate a carriage. Such a simple way to have a hydraulic drive, no separate pumps, motors, valves or lines. Just visited your gallery. I enjoyed seeing all the miniature steam engines? and motors etc. What was the trench and penstock for, you have a hydroelectric system? John
Up here in NH K, we call them lawn mowers. :D :D :D :D :D ;)
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 23, 2017, 05:20:36 PM
I had a line of the old David Bradley"s. This was the neatest one I had.
The ones I saw at the show looked like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.preparemag.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F12%2Fdb-walkbehind1.jpg&hash=2155fee2a67f8a1e43dd256e98fc7a32c1767121)
I had never seen one before...pretty intriguing.
Quote from: SineWave on April 24, 2017, 06:49:36 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 23, 2017, 05:20:36 PM
I had a line of the old David Bradley"s. This was the neatest one I had.
The ones I saw at the show looked like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.preparemag.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F12%2Fdb-walkbehind1.jpg&hash=2155fee2a67f8a1e43dd256e98fc7a32c1767121)
I had never seen one before...pretty intriguing.
At one time all the sears tractors was made by D/B.
Last picture was two of the oldest ones I ever had made by D/B.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Blade_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1493033486)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Waynes_sears.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1493033692)
Quote from: Trapper John on April 24, 2017, 03:01:21 AM
Kevin, that winch is too cool. I was wondering why I have never seen anyone use such a tranny to operate a carriage. Such a simple way to have a hydraulic drive, no separate pumps, motors, valves or lines. Just visited your gallery. I enjoyed seeing all the miniature steam engines? and motors etc. What was the trench and penstock for, you have a hydroelectric system? John
trench and penstock ?
This is the second time I use a Eaton to control a winch.
The one on my log arch works great...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC03471~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1493033935)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Coming_up~2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493034042)
A belt guard and some paint and it's finished....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05706.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1493075100)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05707.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1493075152)
Ok... I'm ready to build my solar kiln...
Question...
What degree of an angle should the south facing glass wall be? 45°?
This frame is what I would like to copy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/solar9.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1493750966)
Oh man, thank goodness for a min I looked at that picture and thought you'd already gotten that far into it after the other project and I was feeling some kind of slow.
Feeling better now :D
Did you look at the VT site and plans?
Quote from: nativewolf on May 02, 2017, 03:03:17 PM
Oh man, thank goodness for a min I looked at that picture and thought you'd already gotten that far into it after the other project and I was feeling some kind of slow.
Feeling better now :D
Did you look at the VT site and plans?
Plans... Here? Nope I din't look.
Just getting ready to start...
Virginia Tech created a whole extension effort around the solar kilns for small farmer/saw mill folks. Google them I am sure it is available still.
https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/420/420-030/420-030_pdf.pdf
X2 nativewolf. I thought he had it framed out already.
Quote from: btulloh on May 02, 2017, 05:38:26 PM
https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/420/420-030/420-030_pdf.pdf
X2 nativewolf. I thought he had it framed out already.
That link says....
The optimum roof angle is dependant on your location and is typically
equal to the latitude of your location.
Any idea what Pa. might be?
https://www.google.com/search?q=latitude+united+states+map&tbm=isch&imgil=qOOD_TcTMiAvLM%253A%253BDT4ljLG1sHYocM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fmodernsurvivalblog.com%25252Fsurvival-skills%25252Fbasic-map-reading-latitude-longitude%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=qOOD_TcTMiAvLM%253A%252CDT4ljLG1sHYocM%252C_&usg=__FFnpzUTG4nr2W3gAPmxb9P3Ss7k%3D&biw=1366&bih=604&ved=0ahUKEwim_6mToNLTAhVYwGMKHcWZBRUQyjcILA&ei=OAcJWaaDEdiAjwPFs5aoAQ#imgrc=qOOD_TcTMiAvLM: (https://www.google.com/search?q=latitude+united+states+map&tbm=isch&imgil=qOOD_TcTMiAvLM%253A%253BDT4ljLG1sHYocM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fmodernsurvivalblog.com%25252Fsurvival-skills%25252Fbasic-map-reading-latitude-longitude%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=qOOD_TcTMiAvLM%253A%252CDT4ljLG1sHYocM%252C_&usg=__FFnpzUTG4nr2W3gAPmxb9P3Ss7k%3D&biw=1366&bih=604&ved=0ahUKEwim_6mToNLTAhVYwGMKHcWZBRUQyjcILA&ei=OAcJWaaDEdiAjwPFs5aoAQ#imgrc=qOOD_TcTMiAvLM:)
Somewhere between 40° and 42° depending on where you are south to north.
According to Google Maps, the intersection of State and Main is at 41°07'13.4"N
https://www.google.com/maps/place/41%C2%B007'13.4%22N+76%C2%B031'48.8%22W/@41.120397,-76.5313233,18z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d41.120395!4d-76.530229
Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on May 02, 2017, 07:47:32 PM
According to Google Maps, the intersection of State and Main is at 41°07'13.4"N
https://www.google.com/maps/place/41%C2%B007'13.4%22N+76%C2%B031'48.8%22W/@41.120397,-76.5313233,18z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d41.120395!4d-76.530229
But that still does not tell me what angle that I should use...
Quote from: Kbeitz on May 02, 2017, 08:09:13 PM
Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on May 02, 2017, 07:47:32 PM
According to Google Maps, the intersection of State and Main is at 41°07'13.4"N
https://www.google.com/maps/place/41%C2%B007'13.4%22N+76%C2%B031'48.8%22W/@41.120397,-76.5313233,18z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d41.120395!4d-76.530229
But that still does not tell me what angle that I should use...
But as the PDF said, probably add 10° for winter (make it 51°) but its just so much easier to make it 45° ;)
The angle for solar collectors is always a compromise. Probably 45 degrees would be as good as any at your location and it makes construction easier. The ideal angle changes with the season. You can optimize for winter or summer, but 45 degrees splits the difference between December and June for your latitude.
With your skills, you could even go for a tracking collector which would mean adjust the angle of the collector as the angle of the sun changes. That would be quite a complicated thing in a solar kiln. I'm pretty sure it's ever been done.
I really learned a lot about solar projects when I put a small 80 watt panel and system in a small cabin. It was a low-cost education, but it really taught me a lot and I ended up with a functional lighting system even with all the necessary compromises.
I was starting to make a smart-alec reply about building a kiln that tilts seasonally, then I realized that it possibly doable with dump truck hydraulics. Or not, it's pretty far outside my realm of experience. Not that I'm trying to plant a demon seed or anything...
I was thinking wood blocks and a forklift.
PC
Or skidding it or trailer. If I didn't have so many projects going on, I would build one. I do plan on one soon.
I got lots of new pella doors to start with. It's going to be built in a very hard spot.
I want it not to far from the mill and i have this small corner that good for nothing.
The back of the building will be level with the ground but the front will be up on post.
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Kbeitz i found you a winch. Craigslist ad removed by Admin.
But that's only good for 30,000lbs....
I just had a random thought today on the way to work. Those are nice Pella windows. aren't they intended to block alot of the suns rays and keep it from transferring to much heat? Is that going to be a problem with a solar kiln? could they be mounted inside out?
Just random thoughts. It will probably not make any difference.
Quote from: Crusarius on May 04, 2017, 07:39:00 AM
I just had a random thought today on the way to work. Those are nice Pella windows. aren't they intended to block alot of the suns rays and keep it from transferring to much heat? Is that going to be a problem with a solar kiln? could they be mounted inside out?
Just random thoughts. It will probably not make any difference.
Thats a Pella's option InsulShield glass ordered special.
These doors I have has shades built inside the glass.
I wont be using the shades.
K, for simplicity's sake I'd build at 45°. Those few degrees to get "perfect" for summer and winter won't make much difference at all. This way it'll be close all the time instead of being quite a ways off in one season or t'other.
A while ago I was thinking of putting up solar panels for electricity and was studying all the "optimum angles" and then realized that we were only talking about a few points of efficiency over a large number of angle so it wasn't worth it to me to build and maintain trackers and all that crap. I never did anything like this cause life happened. You know how that works around here.
I agree with ox, I also put my solar panals facing a tiny bit furthure east then true south for the same reason which was to do better in winter then in summer.
Cheers
gww
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on April 14, 2017, 08:28:59 AM
Beitzing: The act of cutting a timber into a bizarre and unnatural twist.
The are self-stickering.
What I want to see is Kbeitz Bibbying a DanG oversized log so he can take big Beitz out of it!
Kbeitz:
Thank you for sharing all of this!
Glad I stumbled on it before building -- my idea was to treat it as a coarse threading operation, just taking a little off with each pass. Pick feed per revolution or threads per inch just as with an engine lathe (except here the cutter moves fast, the carriage and work move slow) and let the chips fly. I still think that would work, but not nearly as well as what you've done.
Yours wastes less, can cut boards that have a twist to match the remaining center post, and could *still* do the incremental threading operation. Bravo!
Hey, maybe that's a way for you to get multiple revolutions in the twist. Start with an octagon and just shave 1/8 inch or less per cut so the cut-off is too flexible to bind or twist your blade. Imagining a cross section of the blade in the cut, the tooth is carving out the path and the trailing edge of the blade just has to fit in the arc of the kerf so it doesn't force the tooth downward. With very thin cuts, the board shouldn't be able to twist the blade out of horizontal.
Just excellent work and excellently documented. Thanks again!
(Gotta go finish reading the rest of the thread).
Quote from: Kbeitz on May 02, 2017, 08:09:13 PM
Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on May 02, 2017, 07:47:32 PM
According to Google Maps, the intersection of State and Main is at 41°07'13.4"N
https://www.google.com/maps/place/41%C2%B007'13.4%22N+76%C2%B031'48.8%22W/@41.120397,-76.5313233,18z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d41.120395!4d-76.530229
But that still does not tell me what angle that I should use...
According to an article I saved some years back from
https://www.homepower.com/solar-water-heating
"A tilt angle equal to latitude makes the surface of collectors or modules perpendicular to the sun's rays on the equinoxes at noon, often appropriate for year-round production...Increased tilt angles favor winter production, and lower angles favor summer production. If the collection surface is tilted at an angle equal to latitude plus or minus 23.5°, the surface will be perpendicular to the sun at noon on the respective solstices."
Since your part of PA is at about 41.1° N latitude, a good year-round angle would be 41° ...
Alternately, if you want to gather as much heat as possible in winter, at the cost of less heat-gathering in summer, you could add 23.5° to your latitude of 41.1° for 64.6°
Thanks for the info...
In my last line, I made a mistake in carrying over the obliquity of the ecliptic of 23.5°...fixed now, though it's not as diabolical...
K
I also made a mistake. I ment to say that I made my panels face a tiny bit more west to take better advantage during summer. I said east in my earlier post. My view was due to the shorter hours during winter, I would have a little bit more of an even daily output rather then just go for max yearly output.
Good luck.
I sawed some walnut today. I broke a blade on the second cut.
I have a problem that I never had before. Build up on my band
wheels. It build up enough that it broke the blade before I knew
it. These old log has been laying on the ground for around 15
years. Anyone have build up problems from walnut?
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I get build up from almost everything. If I wasn't sawing a lot SYP in between hardwood it might be different. I just get rid of the build up fairly often. The build up on the belts doesn't seem to cause much trouble unless I let go too long.
I would say that your blade was cracked in the gullet and was one cut away from breaking when you started. If bandwheel buildup broke blades, I would not have any blades left. Buildup is a way of life. My bandwheels always get brushed and cleaned every time a blade comes off.
Quote from: Magicman on May 08, 2017, 10:11:15 PM
I would say that your blade was cracked in the gullet and was one cut away from breaking when you started. If bandwheel buildup broke blades, I would not have any blades left. Buildup is a way of life. My bandwheels always get brushed and cleaned every time a blade comes off.
Very well could be. This was the blade I was using to make all my twisted octagons with.
I had to find an easy way to move this log twisting beast. Way to heavy to lift
and way to long to pick it up with my tractor. Two bolts holds the wheels on
and two bolts holds the hitch on. My log turner can pick it up off the wheels
and on to the mill with no problem.
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I'm needing to cut a 26 foot beam for my shop floor. My new log roller
sure makes things easier. This was all done with my 15hp Kubota.
I lifted one end of the log up and chained it fast to the trailer so
it would stay and then lifted the other end up onto the trailer.
You don't need a large tractor to get things done. You just find a
way to do it.
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Well I wanted to report on using 4° blades. I bought a box this winter and
I'm just now getting aroubd to using them. I wanted to finish up my 7°
blades first. I was sceptical about how much better people with low powered
mills was saying they were. First I sawed out 8 Walnut logs and I hit a chunk
of steel. I kept sawing anyway and i really did not see where the metal hurt
anything. Then I sawed out this 26 foot long 8X8" beam. well i gotta say these
blades are cutting flatter than anything i have used so far. Really nice cuts. But
I did notice that it really slowed me down. It seem like it takes a lot more HP to
run these blades. I bet I lost at least 1/3 of my speed. But I'm not complaining
because I'm not fast anyway and I like the nice flat cut. I'm sure glad to finish
up this large log. The big ones sure is a lot of work...
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC05849.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1494369014)
My experience (ha!) with 4 degree blades is similar to yours -- slower feed but nice flat cut. Got mine from Kasco and have been very pleased with them. I'm running just 7 HP.
What's that steam-engined looking vehicle you snuck in there in that first photo from this morning?
Where did you get your blades from?
Funny - I'm ordering some Kasco 4s today... I'm looking forward to them.
Quote from: Ox on May 10, 2017, 11:32:37 AM
Funny - I'm ordering some Kasco 4s today... I'm looking forward to them.
I'm betting you will like them...
Just ordered some Kasco 4's from Cutting Edge on Monday myself! Thanks for the report K. Excited to give them a try
Just saw the pics of the 15 year old walnut log you milled a couple days ago. I think you'll be VERY pleasantly surprised when you use the wood and put a finish on it. ;)
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on May 10, 2017, 05:28:39 PM
Just saw the pics of the 15 year old walnut log you milled a couple days ago. I think you'll be VERY pleasantly surprised when you use the wood and put a finish on it. ;)
I have worked a lot with walnut before but I never sawed a log of it before the 15 year old ones. I got another BIG one to saw up when I can get to it.
Part of my report on 4° blades. So far I'm liking them a lot.
They are slower than the 7° but on my mill they do a much
better job. Today I had something happen that never happened
before. I was cutting an ash tree and I had all the sap wood
off. After my second cut making 3x8x10 my blade made a fast
hard dive. I got the mill stopped before the blade broke. I slowly
backed out and rolled the log looking for a knot or metal. I
found nothing. So I resharpened the blade and slowly reentered
the log at the same spot and finished the cut. I flipped the plank
over looking for whatever it was that made my blade dive so
fast and hard. I found nothing. Not even a knot. Has anyone
have had this happen to them before? Can a blade go dull this
fast with no small dips or dives before?
K
Check your guide bearings and the tightness of your guide. The only time I had that happen, my guide bearing had disinagrated.
Good luck
gww
PS I have had log stress do lots of things to my mill also. Some logs are amazing and change as I cut them.
Quote from: gww on May 13, 2017, 09:24:48 PM
K
Check your guide bearings and the tightness of your guide. The only time I had that happen, my guide bearing had disinagrated.
Good luck
gww
PS I have had log stress do lots of things to my mill also. Some logs are amazing and change as I cut them.
Checking my guide bearings was the first thing I did after looking to see
if the blade hit something somewhere. It acted just like it hit a back stop
or something. The blade was running so straight and just took a fast nose
dive.
I've never personally seen this happen. But heard about it in a funky log with strange grain patterns. The blade just can't get out of the path of grain or something like that. But why did it not happen the second time? Beats me. Tiny little weird things happen all the time for me on a weekly basis. ???
Quote from: Kbeitz on May 14, 2017, 01:46:41 AM
Quote from: gww on May 13, 2017, 09:24:48 PM
K
Check your guide bearings and the tightness of your guide. The only time I had that happen, my guide bearing had disinagrated.
Good luck
gww
PS I have had log stress do lots of things to my mill also. Some logs are amazing and change as I cut them.
Checking my guide bearings was the first thing I did after looking to see
if the blade hit something somewhere. It acted just like it hit a back stop
or something. The blade was running so straight and just took a fast nose
dive.
K, I had a fresh felled oak mill last week. Was sawing one of the last passes and sure as heck, my blade took a dive. As you, I back out and put the chainsaw to it to see what was what. Nothing there. My thinking is that log had a lot of stress. Heck, after that cut, the cant center lifted off the bed a good inch. :o
K
I have had logs cut really funky to a point and then just straiten out for the rest of the log. I can see how the next cut could have been good.
I cut a whole bunch of sub standard logs and there are many times that I am sure it is the log. I also have dogging issues if I am not careful cause my dogs can tend to lift one side of a cant up if I tighten them hard and the cant is light.
I have always found annomolies hard to interpet. It is like electrical problims that are intermitted. It is hard to fix untill total failure shows what is wrong.
Good luck
gww
Wow let me tell you a 26 foot 8x8 can be heavy...
I got it in but now I gotta get it up...
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That's a monster. Did it try to eat any of your digits or limbs along the way? When they get that big, I think they develop a taste for human flesh.
Quote from: grouch on May 14, 2017, 11:52:51 PM
That's a monster. Did it try to eat any of your digits or limbs along the way? When they get that big, I think they develop a taste for human flesh.
No hurts so far....
It's amazing what we put ourselves through just to get things accomplished.
K
Those are liter if you let them dry for about a 100 years before placing :).
Cheers
gww
[quote ]
K, I had a fresh felled oak mill last week. Was sawing one of the last passes and sure as heck, my blade took a dive. As you, I back out and put the chainsaw to it to see what was what. Nothing there. My thinking is that log had a lot of stress. Heck, after that cut, the cant center lifted off the bed a good inch.
[/quote]
Back in my Frick circle saw days, I had several stress heavy logs that go the opposite way on a circle mill (blade/cant/carriage stay true and the cut board goes crazy). Had to duck the sawed end of a 1 x 8 come off the cant/blade/spliter circling around trying to slap me at the head controls. The amount of the force stored in a bad stressed log is truly amazing!
Yep, I've seen a board come up off the cant looked like a banana peel
The beam is up and I'm closing the wall...
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And you're just going to keep it secret how you got that monster up there? No photos of the process, just the result?
I got 4 of them... If you turn the handle hard enough you can drive a 4x4 right through a timbor.
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Ah! That's one of the trailer jacks you showed earlier.
That worked well, nice job.
Well one job is finished... I hate driving nails in ash...
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Yesterday I was cutting lumber and hit metal hard.
It took the teeth almost off the blade.
I was thinking well this blade is toast.
I had nothing to loose so I put it on my
homemade sharping machine. I had to
set the tilt at almost 45° to get a point
back on the blade. I said this is never
going to work. I sawed all day cutting
more Ash with this blade and it worked fine ...
Go figure...
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With some set and sharpen the blade will cut.
Why is ash so bad?
Quote from: Peter Drouin on May 26, 2017, 09:12:47 PM
With some set and sharpen the blade will cut.
Why is ash so bad?
You need to drill every hole to get a nail in.
Just like oak once it dries out. :o DanG nails will bounce off. :o
Ok... Time to add something new. I think the best thing I could do to improve
my mill is a way to tell how tight that I have my band. This is what I come up with.
My old way to tighten the blade.
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My yet to be new way...
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I just bought these two items off E-bay to do the job. I sure hope it works.
The Hollow Ram was not cheap.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/s-l500_28229.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1505529279)
similar to how mine is
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Quote from: DDW_OR on September 16, 2017, 01:24:03 AM
similar to how mine is
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Great... So it will work... Now I'm happy.
I'd get a spring in there, a lot easier on the blade and keeps the tension even. Steve
Quote from: ladylake on September 16, 2017, 07:53:19 AM
I'd get a spring in there, a lot easier on the blade and keeps the tension even. Steve
I have no spring now and never had a problem.
I would think a spring would really shock the system when a band breaks.
But I could see how a spring could help if a band got hot and stretched
a little.
But is it good to have the spring keep tightening when the blade is stretching? That is a telltale sign it is getting to warm and may be getting dull.
I can see the spring being a nice feature but at the same time see it being bad.
I got a question... The cly has a 2" piston. What will I be looking for in PSi on the
gauge when I tighten the band? Just wondering if someone is good with math could
give me a clue. What I'm going to do is to put this tool on my blade the first time
and set it up with that. Then I'll take my reading. I normally don't use this tool.
I just tighten the band and push on it until I think it feels right.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Band_Saw_Blade_Tensioning_Gauge__4~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1505606809)
Not enough information to say for sure. With the cylinder of 2", it will give you 3.14 times the PSI's worth of force on the blade. What tension is supposed to be on the blade?
Conversely, what is the distance between the stops on the gauge you have there? Depending on the blade you have (thickness and width) there is a formula for how much it should stretch. The .005" on the picture will be for one particular blade size.
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Band_Saw_Blade_Tensioning_Gauge_6.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1505609960)
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 2-1/2" between clamps.
So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 08:44:12 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.
So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.
I did that last year and that's why I have it marked as 0.005
No need to figure anything. Multiply the number on the dial times 10,000 and that gives you strain. Most band manufactures want from 18,000 to 27,000 psi. 24,000 is a good number and will be 2.4 on your gauge.
There is more to the gauge than meets the eye. A calculated distant from the pivot
pin to the dial indicator plunger.
I made a hydraulic plunger a while back on the lathe. Its easy to make but takes a long time to figure out the proper squish on the "O" rings. Parker has an excellent engineering handbook online which covers everything you would want to know but it is difficult for me to read/understand. Google Parker O ring handbook if your interested. Another way to either learn or waste an afternoon.
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 09:00:48 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 08:44:12 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.
So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.
I did that last year and that's why I have it marked as 0.005
OK, got it. So just put it on the blade the first time and pump it up until you get it. Then remember/write down that PSI setting and you're golden!
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 10:45:57 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 09:00:48 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 08:44:12 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.
So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.
I did that last year and that's why I have it marked as 0.005
OK, got it. So just put it on the blade the first time and pump it up until you get it. Then remember/write down that PSI setting and you're golden!
That's what I'm hoping for...
Waiting for my gauge to come.
I got a low pressure gauge in the hole to keep dirt and the bees out.
I can't wait to try it out...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06753~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505859704)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06754.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505859750)
This is what I am going to use.
Bought it on sale and will be using the ram.
There is also a small ram about 3 inches tall 3 inches in diameter.
So I have 2 choices but would like to use heavy duty springs.
Until I can source the springs and what size the hydraulic will be a simple solution.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46773/princess_auto_hydraulic.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1505862098)
Search for die springs. They list the poundage.
Dose your ram have a hollow center ?
A little air in your ram will act like a spring.
Both rams have a flat face.
Quote from: William1961 on September 19, 2017, 08:22:27 PM
Both rams have a flat face.
A hollow cly makes it easy to put a threaded rod through it to the part
that needs pulled back.
I got two more inches of shaft sticking out in my line of travel.
I'm thinking I'll need to get use to this. I use the shaft to hold on to
while the head pulls me along. I never walked in to the old shaft but
I did get fairly close to it a few time with the tractor wheel.
I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I wanted to mount it on the back side
but that also where my motor belt adjustment is at. I was looking for a
smaller stroke but at $$$$.00 each I chose to buy this one at $80.00 off
E-bay. I'll keep watching for a smaller one. I can always find another use
for this BIG one.
Prices are crazy on these cly's.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Prices.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1505868628)
Pictures of my Hydraulic pump and 4 ton ram that I paid about $100.
This was purchased here in Canada at Princess Auto.
The 4 ton ram is about 2 inches tall and 2 inches round so it will fit perfect.
In the U.S check out Harbour freight for something like this.
I found it under auto body work tools.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46773/IMG_1491~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505930018)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46773/IMG_1490~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505930048)
Googleing I found this ...
A 1.25 inch blades recommends 2300psi from a one inch
diameter hydraulic cylinder.
My blades is 1.25 but my cylinder is two inches.
I know you just cant half it but I don't know how to
math it out.
Can anyone help?
The area of the 1" cylinder is .79 sq inches and the 2" is 3.14 about 4 times as much.
I guess if you think about it you can almost get 4 one inch circles in a two inch circle.
Quote from: Hilltop366 on September 20, 2017, 09:12:28 PM
The area of the 1" cylinder is .79 sq inches and the 2" is 3.14 about 4 times as much.
I guess if you think about it you can almost get 4 one inch circles in a two inch circle.
So I should need around 575 psi...?
I had it up to 300-400 psi today and it felt good just pushing the blade
down with my hand...
Tomorrow I will put my stretch gauge on and see how close we are.
thanks.
I was laying in bed thinking .... I'm wrong...
This cly was sold as a 2" bore 4" stroke....
But...
It has a 7/8" through bore....
That means the piston cant have a 2" face.
Back to the drawing board...
I'm thinking the 7/8" bore would have at least a 1/4"
side wall making the inside shaft.1-3/8.
So now i'm back to below a 1" piston surface.
Right ?
A cylinder will have the surface area of the diameter of the bore when pushing out, if it were a double acting cyl, then the reduced area of the turn stroke would be the bore diameter less the día of area of the día of the ram connected to the piston. Of course if you have a cylinder that has a ram on both ends then the latter would be true in both directions.
Quote from: mad murdock on September 21, 2017, 12:22:32 AM
A cylinder will have the surface area of the diameter of the bore when pushing out, if it were a double acting cyl, then the reduced area of the turn stroke would be the bore diameter less the día of area of the día of the ram connected to the piston. Of course if you have a cylinder that has a ram on both ends then the latter would be true in both directions.
But what I have is non of those.
I bought a hollow cylinder with a 7/8" hole all the way through.
I just seen another thing. It's listed as 3-3/8 diameter.
That would mean the side wall got to be 11/16 inch thick.
So now I'm thinking the center wall should be the same.
So that should take my piston size down to 3/4"
SOunds like your figuring is correct then.
what I started with...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06755.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1506020666)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06756.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1506020720)
What I ended with...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06758.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1506020844)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06757.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1506020929)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06762.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1506020982)
I'll tweak it from here...
to bad there is not someone in your area with a "similar" mill you could try the tensiometer on.
I hit 300 hours on the mill this week...
I just got back from an engine show in Bangor Pa.
They had a flea market and I found a big blade welder for $5o.00.
I can wait to try it out. I even got a coil of blade with it.
Nice score!
Weren't you scarfing and silver soldering your blades...or was that someone else?
Quote from: SineWave on October 21, 2017, 08:06:35 AM
Nice score!
Weren't you scarfing and silver soldering your blades...or was that someone else?
Yes I was doing the silver soldering. I have 3 wood shop bandsaws and 4 metal shop bandsaws
so this blade welder will come in real handy. About 2 years ago I got a whole truck load of
new Starret blades from the junkyard of different sizes. Now I can cut the bigger ones down
to fit my saws. I have spent the morning watching how to but weld band saw blades on U-tube.
I can't wait to give it a try. I looked up the price of my unit new on google. It sold for $2800.00.
Yesterday was better than some of my junkyard days. I got a new routor for $20.00 a new Car-hart
coat for $15.00. A new mikita sander for $5.00 A vise like I never seen before for #20.00. A vert. Reo
engine for $20.00 Two Dewalt 12" 80 tooth blades for $10.00 and a lot of other little things like
sand paper, drill bits, peg board hooks. cut-off wheels. wood clamps. etc....
Got to love days like that!
Was it all in one box? :D :D
Quote from: Peter Drouin on October 21, 2017, 10:29:54 PM
Was it all in one box? :D :D
Nope... One big flea market...
Man, I've got a bad case of junkyard and flea-market ENVY!
Wow , just finished reading this thread , only took me a week .
I am lucky to get a couple of hours a month to play with my little Oliver mill , your amazing in what you can do and how much you get done . Thanks for doing it and posting it where we can read and see it .
There is always something to do for people that want to do it...
Thanks dirtmotor.
Quote from: Kbeitz on October 25, 2017, 05:33:32 PM
There is always something to do for people that want to do it...
That will keep ya young and tired. :D :D :D :D
Quote from: Kbeitz on May 10, 2015, 11:03:51 PM
Today I got my new winch on and got the motor sitting about where I want it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02680.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc02681.jpg)
Did you have a trouble with the cables trying to lift one side up before the other? I'm having trouble with mine
I did not have that problem. Maybe because I made the outer tubes long.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Long_tubes.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513576890)
I'm going to try going over the top like yours. Mine now is mounted on the top and goes down and across.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cable_lift.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513577651)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Cable_lift_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513577812)
Thanks for posting the pics
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42883/FB_IMG_1513703096563~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1513703539) Hey do you think this would work for my raise and lower of the saw head? It's 1 1/4 ×7. I picked it up a few years ago at a auction. Got 2 6ft sticks of it for 2.00.
I think it would work great if you could get a Coupling nut for it.
You could always get a machine shop to make you two.
I see one on E-bay right now and it's fine threaded but
it does not give the thread count.
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 19, 2017, 04:29:51 PM
I think it would work great if you could get a Coupling nut for it.
You could always get a machine shop to make you two.
I see one on E-bay right now and it's fine threaded but
it does not give the thread count.
What, you don't have a bucket or two full of them? :D
Give the guy some time. Either he will come up with one or a trip to the junkyard will have one.
I never had one with fine threads in it...
I had to look it up to see if anyone made them...
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 19, 2017, 08:41:34 PM
I never had one with fine threads in it...
I had to look it up to see if anyone made them...
Does it have to be a coupling nut?
I see grainger keeps some
Quote from: Kwill on December 19, 2017, 11:15:16 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 19, 2017, 08:41:34 PM
I never had one with fine threads in it...
I had to look it up to see if anyone made them...
Does it have to be a coupling nut?
No... It's just that a long nut will out last anything else.
Your not going to want to replace that expensive rods you have.
A short nut will wear out the threads fast. The longer the nut the
longer it will last and long nuts are so much easier to weld.
Kbeitz,
I just went back and read your thread. Very impressive to say the least. I saw where you sharpened your blades on the mill with a dremel tool. Do you have any pics/videos/ advice on how to do this? There may be others that can give me pointers as well. I've never sharpened anything other than a chainsaw chain. How do you keep the angle correct? Thanks!
Quote from: Georgia088 on December 22, 2017, 08:57:42 AM
Kbeitz,
I just went back and read your thread. Very impressive to say the least. I saw where you sharpened your blades on the mill with a dremel tool. Do you have any pics/videos/ advice on how to do this? There may be others that can give me pointers as well. I've never sharpened anything other than a chainsaw chain. How do you keep the angle correct? Thanks!
You will find that a lot of people frown on dremel sharping a band saw blade
but it works great for me. It's so fast. I do it right on the mill. I raise the head
and put down a board for a seat. Then I take a black marker and mark where I
start. I go so fast I don;t want to waste time looking for the end. There is really
no angle. I just hold the dremel strait up and down and my 5/16 stone keeps
the profile of the blade. The stone is good for one maybe two sharping's of a
blade. I buy the stones off E-bay by the 100's real cheap. Get the long ones.
The used stone can be use for other things but the profile of the stone gets to
small to fit the gullet of the blade and you will get to much hook after it wears
down. Putting some set back in your blade is just as important as having a sharp
blade so I made this set tool that sets the blade again right on the saw. I don't
set each time I sharpen.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/With_the_blade_still_on_the_saw_2~2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513952057)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Saw_set_2~2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1513952489)
You might need a different size stone to fit your blade. I use 4 degree blades
and my 5/16 stones fit the profile real nice.
Kbeitz facing your mill what way does your wheels turn? From looking at your blade looks like clockwise? I see some turn clockwise some turn counter clockwise. Does it matter? If I mount my engine like the plans say the wheels turn clockwise looking at them. This makes getting to the key switch and engine functions more difficult along with having a longer shaft. If I mount it the other way it just would work better.
I️ knew nothing about building mills when I️ made mine. Yep it's backwards and I'm happy for it. Clockwise facing the blade. One thing I️ really like about it is the sawdust all goes out the back. The only thing I️ don't like is that I️ have to turn inside out every blade I️ buy. They come with the teeth facing the wrong way.
Just remember you can't push a rope. You got to pull the blade through the wood.
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 24, 2017, 10:08:57 PM
I️ knew nothing about building mills when I️ made mine. Yep it's backwards and I'm happy for it. Clockwise facing the blade. One thing I️ really like about it is the sawdust all goes out the back. The only thing I️ don't like is that I️ have to turn inside out every blade I️ buy. They come with the teeth facing the wrong way.
Just remember you can't push a rope. You got to pull the blade through the wood.
Ok. For not knowing much about it you sure made a nice looking mill. This will actually work out better for me cause I will be able to mount it in a more user friendly position.
Kbeitz,who said it was backwards? Kinda like normal. I always like that one,what is normal?
I have to walk on my sawdust. But the way my mill is set up,it's easier that way for me.
I know WM are backwards. :D I impressed a friend by turning it inside out in seconds, He really thought I knew what I was doing. :D
It's not hard to flip a blade inside out. I think it's backwards because
most sharpers are made to sharpen the blades the other way.
Which way it turns matters not. The important thing is that the blade is being pulled through the cut/log, not pushed.
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 23, 2015, 08:34:41 AM
Blade guide....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC02476.JPG)
how did these work out. Did you have to make a tilt adjustment along with the up and down and in and out?
I guess I got lucky. I did not make any tilt adjustment. I just took my
time and squared it up real good and it worked fine. Maybe later if I
get wear on the wheels I'll wish I had tilt adjustment . Guess I could
put them in my lathe and flatten the ware or buy new wheels if it ever
gives me a problem.