Been putting up a drying shed the last few days with my first lumber so I haven't been milling much. I was thinking though after reading some very old posts (2010) that I maybe experiencing some slight issues. I did a search for sawdust caking up between my cant and board while I cut but couldn't find much. Does this mean I am using too much lube? I'm cutting SYP felled with the last 4 weeks BTW.
I have the same mill and come across this too so I will be interested in the answers you get :)
Sawing too slowly can also give you excessive sawdust buildup ;)
Yep....this is natural. Even though you use your favorite lube in a jug, the caking will continue to build up on your blade when sawing SYP.
I keep me a spray bottle of diesel and spray my blade while it is still turning but not in the log. It'll clean it off in 3 seconds.
What I have started doing recently when I saw SYP....I use a 4° blade. I have used 7° and 10° in the past. My Pine logs are mixed from clear to knotty.....this is just the nature of the beast when sawing SYP.
Since going with a 4°, I can now increase production...a little.... and don't experience so much build up on my blades plus I'm not getting waves over the knots.
4° is strictly what I use for Pine. I have a 29hp Kolher and the blade choice, speed and quality of lumber match right up.
Speed rate through the cut plays a large factor on leaving dust on the cant. Having the horse power needed to move it out is coupled with the right band blade geometry as Poston mentioned. You will need to experiment with different bands to find the one that gets it done with the desired finish and flatness. For the most part pine is fine ;D if the logs are free from reaction wood, good luck to ya,
Over the years I've heard of lots of reasons, such as:
To much lube/water.
To little lube/water.
Sawing to slow.
Sawing to Fast.
Gullet to shallow.
Gullet to deep.
I think the feed speed and the depth of the gullet along with using small amount of lube all make a difference, but, seems to me that all mills need to adjust all three.
Maybe it's just the nature of the beast! ::)
Poston, would you be willing to divulge the brand and model blades in addition to the 4deg profile? Thanks for the replies gentlemen.
Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on February 03, 2015, 08:43:47 PM
4° is strictly what I use for Pine. I have a 29hp Kolher and the blade choice, speed and quality of lumber match right up.
Good to know.
I think WM is who makes the 4° bands. Believe I watched a video somewhere on it where they went to maybe the Phillipines or Indonesia or something to saw Greenheart and neeeded to figure out the best blade for the job and the WM folks come up with the feared, revered, 4° blade.
Be aware that the hook angle is just part of the differences in blades. Just as important is the shape and depth of the gullet. The angle on the back side of the tooth will also have some influence. Like everything else on a sawmill, the specs on a blade are a bundle of inter-related compromises, and changing one thing will usually mess up something else. Hook angle on my sharpener is easily adjustable, and I have the capability to make my own profile cams. I have played around a bit, for my use, I find the wm 10 deg double hards to be not optimum for anything, but pretty good for everything...
Quote from: Ugly Tree on February 05, 2015, 08:17:59 AM
Poston, would you be willing to divulge the brand and model blades in addition to the 4deg profile? Thanks for the replies gentlemen.
Woodmizer 4°.