So my Eaton winch on my 225 started smoking out the vent today so we drained the oil and it was filled with brass so we flushed it out with diesel and put new oil in but I have been told that once you get brass in the worm gear it will continue to eat away the brass gear so should I take the winch off and take it apart then clean it really good or just run it and plan on buying a brass gear I've been told they are 1400 dollars and obviously I'd rather not buy one but if cleaning it wouldn't help then I wouldn't bother has any of you had a similar problem or know if there are any places to get a gear cheaper?
If it was smoking the damage is probably done. They do take a special brass gear oil. When I had my 225 I use to change the oil yearly in the winch. Always got a little brass.
Yeh I used the special oil I had some that dad had left over from a few years ago when he had a 230 but this time I couldn't find any do you know of anywhere I could find it I was told too use 85/140 syn by several respectable mechanics so that's what I put in so I guess I'll find out what happens tomorrow it seems like I can't remember a day of recent that I haven't had to fix something but its part of the job I suppose
Seems like my Troy Built tiller takes a special oil because of the brass.
Probably the same oil I wish I had of saved the container so I could find out more about it if I remember right it was fairly thick and tacky almost like bar oil
special worm gear oil, Call Harolds logging supply in Hamden ,he probably can tell you which oil to use. I used to know 30 years ago !! Don
Mabe get it fixed before you do more damage to it :)
the TJ dealer way back when, told me to put a whole bottle of stp oil treatment in and than fill it up with 80-90 gear oil. i never had a problem. i also changed that oil twice a year.. oil is cheap
Thanks for the help guys I called Harold's and he said that he can't find the old stuff they used to sell anymore but to run 85/140 syn. I ran it all day today and it didn't smoke or get hot at all so maybe I'll run it for the rest of the week then flush it again and put new oil in and see where it goes from there.
there is a post some place in here that tells what oil it takes my be back in march 2013
I know the old oil was paraffin base, but the synthetic oil should fill the bill !! if i get to talk with some of the old timers that used to work at Timberland machines im sure they will remember what the original oil is, actually i may still have a 230 manual and it probably tells in it! . Don
Yeh I'm sure if randy recommends it that its fine he sure knows timberjacks if you do find out what the original oil is let me know I'm curious now
I think this is the thread referred to:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,60228.
The problem with a sulphur based EP oil is when it gets warm, it will erode the brass gear. The correct worm drive oils are easy to find.
Remember the worm and brass gear are reversible so if the wear or corrosion is not too bad, you can reverse them both as a set. You can get an idea of the wear by shining a light in the filler plug and rotating the input shaft till the teeth on the brass gear are visible.
I suggest you put the correct oil in it, check the wear and try and work out if the gears have been previously reversed. If they haven't been reversed, next time the skidder is in the shop, maybe worth flipping the gears.
Neilo
OK thanks I will call around tomorrow and see if I can find some even if I have to buy a 5 gal pail it wouldn't hurt too have for future oil changes. I didn't know they are reversible I'll look tomorrow to see if its been reversed yet. but now I got more problems I stubbed a tire on a rock coming out with my last twitch I got it apart but I gotta either put a boot patch in or find a good used tire its just one thing after another lately but o well that's how it goes
As I understand it the special lubricating problems of a worm drive is because of the "sliding friction" of the worm against the worm wheel.As such they recommend either synthetic or mineral based oils with some tacifier .
We had some giant broach drives at work that must have had a 4 feet diameter brass worm wheel .I'll ask around and figure what they used but I'm about certain it was some product made by Mobil oil .
As nearly as anybody can remember those multi million dollar Cincinnati broachs used Mobil SHC synthetic gear oil .What weight I have no idea .
I think the stuff we use in the ABB robots is also Mobil SHC 360 .It's kinda pricey at over 40 bucks a gallon .To me it kind of looks like clear chainsaw oil with a tacking agent .It certainly doesn't reek to high heavens like petro based gear oils .
Yeh I don't mind spending a little more too have the correct oil the winch only holds 3 pints so a gallon would be good for a couple oil changes
josh it was texaco merapo220 dont think you can buy it anymore
i spelled it wrong meropa220
OK thanks dixmont I have been running the syn for 6 days now and today i worked it real hard i had some big hemlock at the bottom of a steep hill i had to winch to me the full lenth of the cable three or four times before i could get on good going and it hasn't been smoking or even getting warm so I think I'll just change it again too see if I can get some more brass out and run it