Screws, sometimes while putting them into hardwood there not so easy to put in, a little wax will go a long way in helping out.
Da wax...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/011.JPG)
A little is all that is needed, it really does help a lot, makes putting screw is so much easier.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/010.JPG)
Another trick for screws in hardwood, taught to me by an old, and good woodworker was to just rub the screw in your hair (yeah, when I had hair :D).
The small bit of lanolin on the hair made a world of difference in the force needed to turn them in, and there was no tell-tale ring left around the screw head.
Might also be a good use for a drop of Blue Creeper too.
And da wax is good too. ;)
I don't have anything to add right now.....but ISAWLOGS.....this is gonna be a good thread.
Good idea. :)
Keeping all da trade secrets to ones self eh! :D
I melted a wax toilet bowl ring (a new one) and poured the melted wax into an old plastic glue bottle with the top part cut off just above the wax level. I use it to wax screws, particularly those 2 1/2" - 3" long rascalls. Helps a lot.
A tip for a woodworking drill press is to make the table insert round and off-center to the quill. That way the insert can be rotated a bit each time a new surface is needed beneath whatever is being drilled. The inserts last a lot longer than a square one that is centered underneath the quill.
I've known about that tip for years and recently saw that it won the "best tip" award in Wood magazine for that particular issue. Guys, some of the things you do to facilitate your shop work can be worth money or tool prizes if you submit them to the magazines.
I've got to where I keep a selection of old inner tubes around. They make great clamps/holders until you have things close enough to actually clamp or fasten. Just cut slices and you have rubberbands.
Allan
Syringes and plastic tubing to fit over them. Particularly larger syringes from the feed mill/ TSC etc. Equally good for dispensing fluid and sucking up small spills.
A comfortable chair to rest while the glue dries. I use slow drying glue. ;)
A well stocked first aid kit...
A cold fridge stocked with beer...
A good shop dog....
A good radio...
A sink....
A bbq grill....
Air Conditioning and heating!
If building a new shop, be sure you place all your wall outlets 4 feet off the floor. Think about installing some outlets in the ceiling with drop cords.
When you see an old radio or phonograph speaker, take the magnet off the back of it. The magnets are handy to pick up spilled screws and nails or to find a metal object you dropped into the sawdust. magnets are also good to stick on you drill press, bandsaw, etc to hold drill bits or small wrenches.
Make your own zero clearance tablesaw plate. Take the original steel tablesaw plate that came with the saw and put it on a piece of plywood the same thickness. Outline it onto the plywood with a pencil and cut it out using a bandsaw or sabre saw, just a little bigger than the lines. Clamp the steel plate onto the plywood and use a router with a flush cutting trim bit or pattern bit to trim it to the same size. Lower the tablesaw blade, tape the new plywood plate to the tabletop, turn on the saw and slowly raise the blade so it cuts a slot throught the plywood. You can level it to the table using tape as shims.
Purchase some cheaper 1 gallon wall hung shopvacs. Hang them on the wall behind your miter saw, your drill press or woodlathe. They really come in handy. I hooked one of them up to my miter saw and it does a good job keeping sawdust from going all over the place. I think I got mine for about $20 each.
Buy some interlocking foam play pads from Toys-R-Us. They make great cushioned pads to stand on and are a lot cheaper than pads bought from woodworking stores....more colorful too. :D
A good broom and a wife or kid who just loves to use it.
Robertson screws by the bag from Lee Valley. Pre-lubed, self drilling, no cam-out in the head (can use Phillips or Robertson drives), don't break off like Canadian Tire chunk. I always pre-drill hardwood. But junk (pricey to) screws will break anyway. Enough of that non-sense. ;D
With those it goes without saying, a good set of screw drivers is needed that are not softer than the screws. ::)
Need the radio
Good sharp chisels and things to make a good edge on them.
A Record Vise (2) that you can clamp to anything around the shop that has a strong lip. ;D
Lots of drill bits, and extra small ones because they usually break off when the drill gets laid down on a messy work area or just plain snap off because they are usually junk if bought local. :D Don't try to drill steel with wood drilling bits. :D Oh, and need a bit sharpener. ;)
Lots of pencils and a nice work bench area with drawers to store them, along with a geometry compass, protractor, triangles and cheap solar calculator.
Fine tooth Japanese saw, or at least a flush cut saw for the dowels. ;D
Those el cheap storage cabinets wit the little drawers to put all the screws and bolts and jointery hardware.
You got a big enough shop? :D :D
Shop stove and 1-1/2 cord ranked up in the outter shop area, attached woodshed. Working in cold takes the incentive away mighty quick. :D
Quote from: CHARLIE on February 21, 2013, 11:58:34 PM
If building a new shop, be sure you place all your wall outlets 4 feet off the floor.
Good start, but 54" will let you lean 4x8s of plywood, etc. against the wall without covering your outlets (on open walls anyway)....
My headphones with a little Sansa (with 600+ tunes) gives me hearing protection.
A box fan exhausts the barn next to the lathe and a couple of little fans keep the "fines" away. Another box fan blows thru the "cone of heat" rising off the stove and a ceiling fan and yet another box fan high in the far end of this old bank barn creates a circulation loop to temper all the air . And a 3' tall old bird cage on top of the stove lets me drape a bunch of the yellow , fuzzy gloves. When my hands get cold, changing to a hot pair of gloves is amazing as I think the hot blue knit wristbands improves blood circulation to the whole hand.
Bamboo skewers give you 1/8" super strong , sandable pins.
Remote starters for dust collection and air compressor which are NOT in the main shop to keep noise down.
Next to Imagination, the most important thing is Organization. ;) ;)
A small electric leaf blower. After I sweep up most of the mess, I open the garage door and the back window then blow the shop clean. Two or three times starting from the back gets the shop looking pretty good. :)
Quote from: isawlogs on February 21, 2013, 07:15:33 PM
Screws, sometimes while putting them into hardwood there not so easy to put in, a little wax will go a long way in helping out.
Da wax... A little is all that is needed, it really does help a lot, makes putting screw is so much easier.
Marcel, I thought that was what the hammer was for? :D
I think I appreciate a good dust collector more than anything else. Along with some flexible hose to get the sawdust out of the corners.
Everyone needs a good fire extinguisher. It is almost as good as a sharp chisel when needed. ::)
A well placed sign for my brother - I do not loan tools.
I learned this from my father-in-law. When you have to drive a nail near the edge of thin material, like molding: set the nail on a hard surface and give the sharp end a light tap. It peens it just enough to to tear instead of wedge and split the board. Works every time.
I buy non-slip drawer liners and use them not for there intented porpuse. I use them as a sanding mat, the little peices don't fly away, and they also acte as a protector, the peice you put on does not get marked on the underneath from vibration from the sander. Best things about them... they are cheap ;D , I got this one from a Dollar store.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/010%7E0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/011%7E0.JPG)
Clamps. Clamps. More Clamps! You can never have too many.
Same thing goes for tape measures and utility knives, too.
I've never done it Marcel, but a good idea. I always have a big sheet of cardboard lying around for sanding on. It slides a little, but tolerable. Done it for years. Some of the cheapo rubber stuff you have to be careful, it will mark the wood that color of blue. ;D
I have yet to have any of the colouring from the liners bleed out onto the wood, they really are great for sanding on, the little peice don't move around on ya and get airborn ;)
Marcel, that is an excellent idea. That's why I'm gonna like this thread. Super useful, and inexpensive. I like it. :) :)
Marcel, I actually have a small roll in the shop as a matter of fact. I will have to try it out. :)
Well I seen a comfy chair on here but I think one of the most important things to have in the shop is a place to use the rest room (portable or built in to each thier own). It never fails Im into a project I go in the house and BAM "honey I need you to".Well you can fill in the rest
One of the handiest things I have in the shop is a funnel sticking through a hole in the wall :)
At times I get abit lazy about putting tools back or anything else
Guess I need a bunch of pictures of tools with buttons that you push kind of like the find phone thing only louder
Keeping enough tools around so that you never have to get shop tools to use at other areas
I have other tools in those tote bags for other places and try to leave the shop tools in shop :) at times shop is closer to grab something so...
Occasionally still hunt tools
I learned a long time ago to put stuff back, cut'n down on treasure hunting. :D
My father and brother are great for dropping wrenches where they last used them. Dad would be digging taters in the fall and last years repair wrenches would show up on the potato conveyor of the harvester. Nice and rusty and seized up. :D
A good shop needs ample lighting. Placing light fixtures about two to four feet out from the wall limits shadows on the workbench.
And tall ceilings. All my workshops have 12' ceilings. On many occasions I have appreciated the extra swing room.
TIME
Never seem ta git enough time ta spend in da shop. :-\
Speaking of lights, most of my bulbs have been replaced with CFL's.
Jake, here I thought my 1+1/2 plastic pipe through the bankbarn's overhang was a private solution to not scaring the passerbys.....but a funnel?? :o :o You need practice, man. Remember the classic line, " We aim to please, your aim will help!" :D :D
Hey Chet, about the time. When your alone there is no division of labour. Someone has to cook and do domestic duties, and that person is in the mirror. :D
Quote from: SwampDonkey on February 24, 2013, 10:13:07 AM
Hey Chet, about the time. When your alone there is no division of labour. Someone has to cook and do domestic duties, and that person is in the mirror. :D
But think of all da extra
time ya git 'cause ya got no "honey do's". ;D
One super helpful thing that I've learned in the past year was the "lean" philosophy from Paul Akers at FastCap(woodworking tool company). Don't assume you know what lean means, because my initial assumptions were wrong. The 1 minute video that pops up in this link, sums it up far better than I could:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pDcmUvtL6w&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pDcmUvtL6w&feature=player_embedded)
and here are some of his videos that relate direcly to your workshop:
Toolbox
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj6NsliY674&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj6NsliY674&feature=player_embedded)
Drill Bits
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJF1kXGSdyQ&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJF1kXGSdyQ&feature=player_embedded)
Kaizen Foam
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrvdzPbDilQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrvdzPbDilQ)
Repairing Kaizen Foam
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUSAsKLMsNo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUSAsKLMsNo)
Garage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWdOHXxFZaM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWdOHXxFZaM)
Garage2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSMqXa7q6h4&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSMqXa7q6h4&feature=player_embedded)
Wood Finishing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPCcyfGKFS8&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPCcyfGKFS8&feature=player_embedded)
Chuck Key
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMs2niX3KtI&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMs2niX3KtI&feature=player_embedded)
Lean at Home
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3F0R9iOH2_c&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3F0R9iOH2_c&feature=player_embedded)
Lean at Home2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIXuS2p6o0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkIXuS2p6o0)
I don't have a stake in FastCap.com, but I am totally sold on the lean philosophy for improving your shop, and your life! I've watched every one of Fastcap's videos.
I use ratchet straps for a number of things and one is clamping irregular objects that need to be held for gluing. The one instance that comes to mind is gluing the cross dowels/slats on kitchen chair legs.
A good insurance policy. I was amazed at how little my house and contents actually covered. Lost about $260,000.00 and got $9600 as a final settlement, a very expensive lesson. :(
The policy should say how much. Some policies have a low premium and folks think they are fully covered.
Quote from: Ernie on February 25, 2013, 08:50:38 PM
A good insurance policy. I was amazed at how little my house and contents actually covered. Lost about $260,000.00 and got $9600 as a final settlement, a very expensive lesson. :(
Along those lines, Ernie, it's a good practice to take a detailed video of your shop and its contents once a year and to save it in a safe place if, heaven forbid, you have to make an insurance claim. A video can be incredibly helpful in helping remember everything you had in your shop and takes less time to make than a complete inventory. An inventory would be better, but most of us would simply never do it knowing how much time it would take!
An agent told me years ago, that the coverage you put on for contents is what you get and photos don't matter. You could take those photos anywhere. Once the place burns down, how are you gonna match anything to them in ashes. You take that money and start replacing. If anything it would help you update the coverage maybe.
I will also add, that the rubber mat Marcel uses works on wood surfaces. But when your using the table saw sometimes as the sanding surface, it will not stay put. So I resort to my cardboard on the table saw. ;D
Quote from: SwampDonkey on February 26, 2013, 11:23:39 AM
An agent told me years ago, that the coverage you put on for contents is what you get and photos don't matter. You could take those photos anywhere. Once the place burns down, how are you gonna match anything to them in ashes. You take that money and start replacing. If anything it would help you update the coverage maybe.
That advice is incorrect. My homeowner's insurance policy is for $250,000. Do you think that if my shop burns, the insurance company is just going to write me a check for $250,000? I wish, but that's not going to happen. The policy will cover only what was destroyed.
I have made a claim for fire damage before - 3 years ago - so I've been through this before. My truck caught fire. My car insurance policy covered my truck, but not its contents. My homeowner's insurance policy covered the contents, and I had over $3000 worth of items in the truck when it burned. In order to make a claim, I had to make a detailed itemized list of everything that was destroyed by the fire as well as its value (either purchased value or replacement value). The adjuster wanted as many pictures as possible to back up our claim, so we picked through the scorched rubble and took pictures of anything that was identifiable. I'm certain we left some things off the list that I just didn't remember.
Out buildings in my homeowners policy, including if my shop burns down or barn, which ever, is covered for whatever my policy says. I don't have to prove anything. My house coverage is one thing, out buildings are something else and itemized on the same policy. For instance, a $250,000 policy on a house will not pay out $250,000 on a burned down shop that is worth say $30,000 on the policy for instance. Vehicle insurance covers fire and theft up here, not house insurance. And nope contents are not covered in vehicles, even if stolen items. At least not around here. Some places can get flood insurance, not around here. Ask all the flood victims along the rivers up here, didn't get squat through insurance. The government had to pay out and they got 1/2 at best, not replacement. We cannot get snow load either. The government again had to replace several potato sheds in 1998, and some of those where ready to fall down anyway. A lot of scams. One I know was replaced with a house instead, the shed was abandoned for years.
Your insurance policy very different from mine. I think the moral of this exchange is that it pays to be familiar with your insurance policy. If my shed burns down and I lose $20,000 in possessions, then I have to prove it.
Yes, become familiar. Also some policies are worded with terms as if we are all insurance brokers. Dazzle and baffle and confuse. ;D
My agent sends out a request every so many years to keep things up to date, like new additions to the house or something improved, and so on.
After that Japanese earthquake and tidal wave I got a notice that my insurance does not cover it. If I have to worry about that, then the rest of the Maritimes, lower part of Maine and Boston will be long gone. ;D
With my policy, my outbuildings are covered for 10% of the house policy. If I have $250,000 on the home, the outbuildings, and contents are covered for $25,000. Not really enough in my book, now that I think of it. I might want to call my insurance guy soon. :)
Unfortunately this thread has been hijacked and an interesting topic has bit the dust. :(
Amen, Buck.....
I had an idea the other day I haven't tried and would put it out to the crowd. I'm considering hanging up a foot square mirror about 3 feet over my lathe so I can glance up and see the edge of the bowl I'm turning. Turners often look to the opposite side of the bowl to see how the cut is progressing.
Sure, I'll have to dust them/blow them off but might be useful. What do the turners think? ???
Sounds good Lud... could get an old truck mirror from a wreckers maybe.
If you need to lubricate a dull blade or bit to get you through, dollar store dish soap will do it without staining the wood like some lubes.
This one is for my friend Danny.
I know that Danny loves his belt sander, so mauch so he just goes on and on about it at times. ;D
They(belt sanders) get clogged up with dust and are , in no time, rendered about useless as a sander. I buy these at LeeValleyTools or at BusyBeeTools. Alls you do is get the belt sander going and put the "crepe block" to the belt, and it cleanes out the dust, now it don't make a new belt , but it does make the belt usefull again. Particularly useful on sanding belts, drums and discs, a crepe block can triple the life of your sandpaper.
Before crepe block is put to the belt.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/003.JPG)
After it is put on it, in its defence I have cleaned this belt many times and it is still good.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/004.JPG)
The crepe block.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/005.JPG)
Nice! ;D
SwampDonkey uses belt sanders to, including a table mounted one like yours. :)
You can save your money on the crepe blocks by using an old running shoe - best to remove the laces first ::)
Quote from: Sprucegum on February 27, 2013, 02:02:26 PM
You can save your money on the crepe blocks by using an old running shoe - best to remove the laces first ::)
And the foot
Quote from: isawlogs on February 23, 2013, 07:15:11 PM
I buy non-slip drawer liners and use them not for there intented porpuse. I use them as a sanding mat, the little peices don't fly away, and they also acte as a protector, the peice you put on does not get marked on the underneath from vibration from the sander. Best things about them... they are cheap ;D , I got this one from a Dollar store.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/010%7E0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10487/011%7E0.JPG)
Some good ideas on here!
I have been using a router pad for sanding for years.
Here's an experiment I ran today. Running 3" screws permanently into Ash and plugging to bury them. Don't want them to move ever. So I put a good dab of Titebond III on the threads as I drove them and the wetness seemed to lubricate them.......plus the wood will soak up the water and the glue may hold everything forever. Will it work?
How well does Titebond adhere to metal screws? With a wooden dowel plug over them though, I don't see them moving much. ;D
Quote from: SwampDonkey on February 28, 2013, 08:58:53 PM
How well does Titebond adhere to metal screws? With a wooden dowel plug over them though, I don't see them moving much. ;D
I do it all the time on benches, SwampyD. Works GREAT!
Quote from: DaleK on February 27, 2013, 02:22:25 PM
Quote from: Sprucegum on February 27, 2013, 02:02:26 PM
You can save your money on the crepe blocks by using an old running shoe - best to remove the laces first ::)
And the foot
Oh, so that is why I am flatfooted ??? :D.
And maybe why I'm a flat lander. :D
I haven't done this yet but it is a good idea I read about some years ago. I'm going to do it as soon as I find a round tuit.
Put a motion sensor light inside your shop. When you walk in with your arms loaded, the light goes on and you can see.
Charlie
Thanks for that suggestion.
I have just that problem in my shed. The garage door opener has a light on a timer, but when I back my tractor in after dark and shut it off, I'm in the dark. Stumble around to find the light switch and your suggestion cures that problem. Thanks.
Can't wait to find the round tuit, then I'll be set. ;D
I have one outside, at least I can get to the door to unlock it.. Having one inside is on the list now, thanks Charlie smiley_lit_bulb ;D
Quote from: CHARLIE on March 01, 2013, 07:39:42 PM
I haven't done this yet but it is a good idea I read about some years ago. I'm going to do it as soon as I find a round tuit.
Put a motion sensor light inside your shop. When you walk in with your arms loaded, the light goes on and you can see.
I have one in my woodshed for those late night fillups. Solar powered LED floodlight with a motion sensor. $40 well spent.
beenthere,park the car outside and the tractor in the garage. The wife's tractor gets the garage,the car is outside. We will have the tractor longer than the car.
I throw the switch to the shop lights on at the house. ;D If down there after dark the yard Halogen gets turned on at the house as well before I venture down. ;)
No cars in my shed. :)
And when I head out with the tractor before dark and return after dark, there are no lights on.
Otherwise, I can turn the shed lights on from the house, or the shed too. I tend to not leave lights on in the daylight, if I can help it. ;)
Motion light will be perfect.
Only makes sense. Maybe there are no tractor lights? :D
QuoteOnly makes sense. Maybe there are no tractor lights?
Dun enough 'splainin. Figure it out SD. ;) But Charlie's idea is one that will work great for me. Nuff said.
:D :D :D 8) We might act dumb up here, but have a good time doing it. :D ;)
Too many sheds and garages for me. :( I'm confused and all done figuring. When I park the wife's tractor in the garage, the garage door opener light stays on for a few minutes.
I'm having a good time too Swampdonkey. But with me it's no act. :D
Quote from: CHARLIE on March 01, 2013, 07:39:42 PM
I haven't done this yet but it is a good idea I read about some years ago. I'm going to do it as soon as I find a round tuit.
Put a motion sensor light inside your shop. When you walk in with your arms loaded, the light goes on and you can see.
You can also get a motion sensor light switch, no need to add a light just change the switch.
Motion sensor switches are great.. I put two in my old house instead of rewiring to add three way switches. Lights are on I go upstairs to bed and 5 min later lights off. Not a shop tip but.....
Use some paste wax on your clamps to help keep the excessive glue from sticking to them.
When glueing up panels stand them on their edges so that the glue will run down the glue line not across the panel, causing you more work.
I use carpet pad while sanding to keep the boards from moving.
Desktop calender blotters. Great for keeping oil, stain or glue off the benchtop. Just tear a sheet off, use it and toss it. The cardboard backer is good for making templates. If you know someone who works in a large office, ask to see if they have unused ones from last year in the supply room.
As stated in an earlier post it is true you never have enough clamps.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22740/DSCF0066.JPG)
So here is an easy and real cheap way to make your own. This is good if you need a lot of light duty clamps or if you need just one more to finish a set up. Take a piece of scedule 40 pvc pipe and cut it in 1/2" sections. Use a back saw or coping saw to make a cut through the ring, and you have a clamp. 2" pipe works well for most applications but larger pipe makes larger clamps. Schedule 80 gives more force but you need stout fingers to open them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22740/Clamps.jpg)
That's a fair number of clamps in the first pic.......what did the finished product look like?? ???
My brother got me a motion set-up for my shop and I love it. It has dip switches in it for adjusting sensitivity and duration. It took a while to find the perfect balance but I think I have it now. I turn the sensitivity down in the summer because of bugs. I had the duration set too low for a long time (being cheap). I would be under a car working on something and the lights would go off right when I wouldn't want them to and I would have to roll out and wave my arms. I love the pvc clamps!
Has anyone mentioned a first aid kit? A good pair of tweezers and an eye wash stand would also be advantageous.
smiley_carpenter_hit_thumb
Hearing protection is also nice to have smiley_grin_earmuff
Lud
The picture with all the clamps is of making a laminated jamb for an arched entry.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22740/DSCF0086.JPG)
Well done and thanks for sharing. That's a pro job, right?
Do you have a theory about clamp placement and order of placement? Inside to out? one end to the other? Stuff as many on as will fit? Use of cauls? Interested people want to know!
How about an intercom from the shop to the house? I was at a wood workers house,I went to see his shop and my wife stayed in the house. My wife could hear us talking and my wife asked about it. It did have a volume control and his wife turned it down and said comes in handy to call him in to eat and if he gets hurt I can run right down.
I've had da intercom in da shop for years. Would definitely be lost without it.