I've noticed that the Stihl bars hold up a lot better than the Oregon bars.
Is it just me having this luck with the Oregon bars, or do you find the same thing?
The Stihl bars seem to be harder, and not wear out as quick.
Oregon uses softer steel in their chains, sprockets and bars. Some users prefer the softer chain because they think Stihl chain is too difficult to file. You just have to get a better file because the Oregon files are designed to file the softer Oregon chain.
But yes, all Oregon stuff is softer and faster wearing than the Stihl stuff.
I've never had any trouble filing Stihl chain, but I do use Stihl files, I quit using Oregon chains and bars, I buy everything Stihl now, seems to last longer.
Quote from: John R on October 11, 2010, 07:01:42 PM
but I do use Stihl files,
Just so you know Stihl files come from out sourced company and stihl stamped on them. My stihl dealer even quit handling the stihl square files and went with another name brand. Said it was cheaper for him to buy them and resale. Still sales stihl round files though since they were same same ;).
Funny here in Canada brand new Stihl saws are sold equipped with Oregon bars up to 24". Painted Stihl grey and "Stihl" on them.
The radial port rim sprockets on these saws with Stihl stamped on them are also made by Oregon. Oregon and Stihl files are made in the same Swiss factory.
Willard. :D
I'm with HolmenTree. All the same stuff, different color paint. Lots of new saws come with oregon parts on them right out of the factory. Just depends on how much you like to pay for the paint.
Its kind of like motor oils and gasoline and diesel fuels. How many different company's actually make the stuff? About 3. How many companys sell the stuff with different names? About 600000000. Its the same exact product with different prices and advertisement gimmicks.
My .02
I don't know if there is any difference in the bars or not .I've seen as many worn out Stihl bars as I have Oregon .
Now the Stihl chain is definately harder,a known fact .As for files and to add my two cents ,I've had better luck using I think "arbor pro " sold by Baileys .It seems at least to me these files are less agressive and appear to file easier than any other I've used on that hard chain .
The Oregon files in my opinion are just about the worst on the market .They won't even hold up to Oregon chain for very long .Pferd is a much better file .
I too prefer to use the "PFERD" file. It is German made and sold by Bailey's
I agree with Al_Smith. I have used both and find sometimes a Stihl bar will last a long time and sometimes it will not. Same with Oregon. As for files I like Pferd best.
Stihl bars are most likely better but how much more do they $$ over Oregon? I've been using these GB bars and chain for a while now and have no complaints. Got a real deal on the chain in loops and it holds up really well boy did I put it to the test. For files I use Oregon or the saw shops around here mostly carry an off brand for 9.99 a box of 12 and I will buy a bunch of those. I found the key is to just go through a lot of them. For a raker file I just buy a 10 or 12" fine or 2nd cut file from the hardware store and keep it where it doesn't get damaged when I'm not using it like being loose in the toolbox. I've never used Stihl bars I always thought they were to expensive same thing with there chain. Yes I'm a real cheapo :D when it comes to some things at least.
I've tried a lot of different files and ended up using these. What's really cool, they are a Ohio company.
They even resharpen files in larger lots if you check into it. Good deal if your using them square files. ;) www.saveedge.com
Quote from: Cut4fun on October 12, 2010, 01:49:30 PM
I've tried a lot of different files and ended up using these. What's really cool, they are a Ohio company.
They even resharpen files in larger lots if you check into it. Good deal if your using them square files. ;) www.saveedge.com
Wonder how they re sharpen a file and keep it from getting smaller.
Quote from: John R on October 12, 2010, 06:18:20 PM
Quote from: Cut4fun on October 12, 2010, 01:49:30 PM
I've tried a lot of different files and ended up using these. What's really cool, they are a Ohio company.
They even resharpen files in larger lots if you check into it. Good deal if your using them square files. ;) www.saveedge.com
Wonder how they re sharpen a file and keep it from getting smaller.
QUOTE from SE. Most files can be resharpened from 2 to 6 times depending on the use.
All you got to do is ask those in charge. I dont work there :D. Here is the info once again and you can call them http://www.saveedge.com/resharpening.html INFO
Save edge files are where its at for sharpening. They hold an edge longer and IMO/IME leave a little better edge on the chain. Also stihl chain lasts longer than anything I've tried and its all we run on any of our saws at work (maybe 20 or so saws of every color/make/model). For bars I prefer Stihl ES bars/ GB titanium bars (if you can find them) or Sugi Hara (also if you can find them).
some years ago I had a bad experiance with oregon bars fought that saw for three days till I figured out that the new bar was bent checked two more new bars at the shop bent must have been there press or something anyways I started using TOTALbars these are the best bars out there IMO this steel is so hard n high tensil you have to see it to believe it
I am glad to hear some info on the pferd files. I have been wanting to try some. Gonna order from baileys in the mornin.
Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on October 12, 2010, 08:34:29 PM
For bars I prefer Stihl ES bars/ GB titanium bars (if you can find them) or Sugi Hara (also if you can find them).
Haven't seen those Sugi Hara bars around for years but I beleive they were one of the best bars I have ever used, absolutely top quality steel very tough and wear resistant. GB titanium bars are good too lots of guys running them on processors around here.
I am not a big fan of file resharpening or paying very much for a file that will see hard use such as a chainsaw file. For a really expensive file I might see it to be cost effective to resharpen maybe in an industrial setting but to have saw files chemically sharpened seems crazy and a was of time they only cost so little. In fact it is probably one of the cheapest things there is buy a couple boxes and your good to go for one heck of a long time even with the 9.99 per dozen files.
I hate to spoil anyone's day, however, I toured the Blount facility in Guelph, Ontario, Canada last fall. This is the location where they make some portion of "hand held" size Oregon saw bars. They also make Stihl saw bars in the same facility, as well as a couple other brands I can not remember off the top of my head. Very interesting process. Each bar is tempered a total of 3 times after certain processes.
They also make Oregon and Stihl saw chain in the same facility.... Now THAT is a job that I want NO part of...
-w-
Wow, Don´t kid yourself. <It is almost impossible to ost something contrary to the editors´s viewpoint.
Quote from: Warren on October 16, 2010, 10:03:06 PM
....................
They also make Oregon and Stihl saw chain in the same facility.... Now THAT is a job that I want NO part of...
-w-
Why is that? ??? ???
Regardless of where they are made, there is a huge difference between the two brands of chain and bars. They use different formulations of steel with different hardness levels. I can tell the difference in the chains just by how they sharpen with a file. And if you run Stihl chain on an Oregon bar, then you will see a wear lip forming on the bar after 4-5 tanks of fuel.
They probabley wouldn't wear out as fast if the danged saws oiled like I think they should rather than the way the EPA dictates they do . Good grief they have some far fetched idea that a little oil spinnng off a chainsaw bar is akin to the wreck of the Exon Valdez .
Quote from: beenthere on October 16, 2010, 11:01:00 PM
Quote from: Warren on October 16, 2010, 10:03:06 PM
....................
They also make Oregon and Stihl saw chain in the same facility.... Now THAT is a job that I want NO part of...
-w-
Why is that? ??? ???
Beenthere,
They make something in excess of 250,000 ft of saw chain per day at that facility.... one link at a time... From an engineering stand point, it is (to me) interesting to see all of the equipment and how it can handle all of the small pieces and assembles them quickly and efficently. Kinda like "WOW, how did someone come up with THAT neat idea ?"
However, being an operator... watching an endless stream of saw chain... and links... and cutters... and rivets... and chain... and links... and cutters... and rivets... All day long... Not my cup of tea....
I am not picking on, or denigrating, machine operators. But for me, I would sit there for about 5 minutes and fall asleep...
-w-
Warren I too toured that Oregon plant in Guelph, Ontario back in the early 1980s. The plant used to be called Planer Chain Ltd, and they made sawchain long before Oregon Saw Chain was even in business. Oregon Saw Chain bought them out in 1952. In 1953 Oregon was sold to Omark Industries, then in the 1980s Blount bought out the company.
But I never heard of Stihl sawchain being manufactured there. ???
Willard.
Quote from: Rocky_J on October 16, 2010, 11:06:57 PM
And if you run Stihl chain on an Oregon bar, then you will see a wear lip forming on the bar after 4-5 tanks of fuel.
I've never noticed this and have run many different chain / bar combinations. Maybe your running your chains to tight.
Nope, that's not it. 8)
If you think about it the cutting conditions have a lot to do with how long a bar will last .It would make sense that a saw used perhaps by an excavating contracter cutting up soil laden wood would wear faster than a northern fallers saw cutting clean wood .Stumping is hard on a bar and chain too not to mention the poor old saw .
Then too regardless of what people might think it appears at least to me that some bars are not quit as robust now of days as they were in past times .I suppose I might have half a dozen Stihl bars hanging on the wall that got beat up .Most of them I've worked over with a belt sander though and they seem to be okay .In addition I have maybe a dozen or so Stihl chain loops I have to spend some time on that got rocked and it was too much of a pain in the behind for the tree service owner to repair .
Rocked chains are the only time I use a Dremel type sharpener because you can wear out a dozen files not to mention your arm on a rocked Stihl chain .Tough rascals to fix .
I picked up a 24" Stihl "ES" bar a couple of weeks ago. Pricing was a few bucks cheaper than an Oregon or Windsor from Baileys and 5 bucks more than the last 24" Total I bought.
Kind of suprised me, as I think the Stihl is a better bar.
Ed
Stihl ES bars are good bars indeed. I have an old German made ES 28" bar that won't wear out. The rails have not one chip in them and sprocket nose still tight. But being a harder bar the bar is almost like a laminated consumer bar where the rails spread and can't be properly re-tightened anymore. So I don't use it anymore. The ES did take a tightening for the first 3 or 4 times but then that was it.
Al, forget the dremil on rocked chains. Clamp your saw in a bench vise, chain tight and bring back the cutters with a 4 1/2" hand held angle grinder. Ever so gently so you don't burn the teeth. Then finish with the file.
Worked for me for years.
Willard
I've used a regular die grinder before just never thought about a small side grinder . I do have a dandy little DeWalt though that tried to digest my index finger a few months ago .Oh it felt sooo good after it quit hurting .Only took about a week .
Probabley not a smart thing to do is sharpening the mower blades still attached to the mower but of course not while the mower is running .I'm fast but not that fast . :)
:D Yeah you gotta hang onto those side grinders they can be real dangerous especially the big guys. I wear heavy welding gloves when I do alot heavy zip cutting. The end of my gloves index finger are always cut off.
I find the dremil stone makes alot of heat on the cutters and actually tempers them harder making filing next to impossible. The bigger coarser side grinder disc doesn't put out near as much heat and alot faster then the dremil.
Willard.
FWIW, I took a quick look at my new Stihl 24" bar tonight. Laser etched....."Made in Germany". This wasn't one they had laying around, he took it from a new shipment that wasn't even sorted out.
Maybe Canadian bars are different.
Ed
I just got a new Carlton bar from Baileys closeout section, and it has stamped on it "made in Germany". It is a decent bar, and it appears to use the same sprocket tip as the Oregon bars do (1 rivet style). I like Pferd files, I have bought a dozen of them from Baileys a couple years back, and still have about 6 left, I have cut about 25 truckloads of wood so far, and have used 2 chains, and just replaced the windsor bar with the Carlton, and new Oregon .063 skip-tooth full chisel chain. Man the old 372XP RIPS through the Douglas Fir like butter now! I usually touch up the chain with a swipe or 2 of the file each tank of gas, and it always cuts good, I keep the rakers a good 1/32" below the cutters, so I never have to push the saw through the wood.
In my neck of the woods a Stihl 16" bar is in the 50.00$$ range and I can buy an Oregon bar and chain combo for less than 49.00$$ so Oregon it is .
Are Stihl's better , I'm not sure , I have more hours on my Oregon's than my Stihl's that I'm currently using and am finding that I have to dress the Oregon's more often but they both get wood on the ground .
Since most of my cutting is for $$ I consider bars and chains wear items and factor that in the job and since I quit smoking several years ago I equate a chain (16" to 18"are the most common around here ) to a couple of packs of smokes so I don't spend much time on rocked chains (unless they're long ones ) because it cuts into time that could be used for something more important or enjoyable .
Quote from: Ed on October 21, 2010, 11:40:32 PM
FWIW, I took a quick look at my new Stihl 24" bar tonight. Laser etched....."Made in Germany". This wasn't one they had laying around, he took it from a new shipment that wasn't even sorted out.
Maybe Canadian bars are different.
Ed
Ed, for as long as I can remember Canadian trade laws stipulate Stihl can only sell their foreign made saws in Canada if they have a Canadian made product on it. That product is the guide bar which are made by Oregon with Stihl colors and logo on it. From the 1960s to about 1987 Windsor was the bar of choice for Stihl but then switched to Oregon after some oil hole issues with the Windsor bars.
But heres the catch Stihl saws sold in Canada with 24" b/c and longer can be all German made. Canadian made Oregon is only used for under 24" bars.
Willard.
Quote from: HolmenTree on October 22, 2010, 11:02:19 PM
Quote from: Ed on October 21, 2010, 11:40:32 PM
FWIW, I took a quick look at my new Stihl 24" bar tonight. Laser etched....."Made in Germany". This wasn't one they had laying around, he took it from a new shipment that wasn't even sorted out.
Maybe Canadian bars are different.
Ed
Ed, for as long as I can remember Canadian trade laws stipulate Stihl can only sell their foreign made saws in Canada if they have a Canadian made product on it. That product is the guide bar which are made by Oregon with Stihl colors and logo on it. From the 1960s to about 1987 Windsor was the bar of choice for Stihl but then switched to Oregon after some oil hole issues with the Windsor bars.
But heres the catch Stihl saws sold in Canada with 24" b/c and longer can be all German made. Canadian made Oregon is only used for under 24" bars.
Willard.
Now that all makes sense why my MS361 I bought from Canada had a Oregon bar in Stihl dress.
That also makes sense why Canadians all seem to run Oregon bars and no one thinks there's any difference between the brands. They have never run the real Stihl bars.
Like I said earlier Rocky I do have a German made 28" ES Stihl bar from when I bought my 066 brand new about 18 yrs ago. Hell of a tough bar.
Willard.