Hi Folks,
Looking to buy a 372XP or similar saw. I have an old MAC 651 (60cc) that I want to replace. I want a saw that I can pull more than a 20 inch bar with. I want something I can pull 28" bar with but will use a 20 or 18" bar with typical work. This is for home use and clearing but I do about 10 trees a month so I want a saw that will last. The weight isn't an issue for me since I am using a MAC right now. Two things I want to know:
1. I like a straight handle bar. Would I be better off with a Jonesred 2171?
2. Can a 372XP handle a 28" bar?
3. Is there something more up to date saw wise that I sould consider over the 372XP?
Hope you all can give me some input.
Tom
Excellent choice, although finding a 372 on a dealer's shelf might be tough since they were replaced with a 'new and improved' ::) model last year. Since you prefer the straight handle the Jonsered 2171 would likely be your best bet. Some may promote the new EPA saws as 'better' but I prefer saws without catalytic converters.
Yes, the 372/2171 will handle a 28" bar if you don't horse on it a lot. It is happier with a 24" and will scream with a 20".
Rocky_J
What is the improved model are these the ones with the XP G or XP W. I want to stay away from those in case I want to do a mod to the saw.
Does the Jonesred have any EPA modificationd done to it like the 372XP's?
Tom
The new replacement models are the 575xp and the 576xp.
The 372/2171 does not have the catalytic muffler as far as I know. I think all the Husky saws with catalytic converter mufflers will have a green gas cap.
G stands for generator,heated handles. No idea about the W.
The "W" is for full wrap handlebar, also I think the XPW's are 75cc. :) TT
Can anyone recommend doing a muffler mod for a 372Xp?
Quote from: tbrickner on September 22, 2009, 06:11:07 AM
Can anyone recommend doing a muffler mod for a 372Xp?
I added a port and screen on the clutch side of my 365 with a 372 BB kit, plus opened up the factory outlet, and it made a big difference.
Quote from: Bowtie on September 22, 2009, 07:55:11 AM
Quote from: tbrickner on September 22, 2009, 06:11:07 AM
Can anyone recommend doing a muffler mod for a 372Xp?
I added a port and screen on the clutch side of my 365 with a 372 BB kit, plus opened up the factory outlet, and it made a big difference.
Like he says using a Husky 288 deflector $8 - $15 depending where you buy ( I do this to make my own DP dual port covers out of stihl covers on 084's etc.
Then you can also go straight out the front bracket and sandwich a screen in between there at no cost also.
Just remember the carb needs adjusting after any muffler mod. I have to admit I wasnt much for Husqvarnas before building this saw, but it sure is a fun machine to run, and its not ported. It is a 365 with the BB kit with OEM Stihl 064 rings, Walbro carb, and a healthy muffler mod. I love my 044, but this saw walks all over it.
Bowtie and Cut4Fun,
I am sure this topic has come up before. Is there any recommended hole sizes for the muffler mods on the 372? Does the shape matter too so that flow is better. Example is an oval shape better than a square/circle?
Is there any link that may explain this too.
Thanks again for your help,
Tom
Most any improved flow from the muffler will help, but the area you can use to open the muffler installed on the saw dictates most of that. Im no expert on flow data, but I oval my mods when possible, and add a deflector. Im not 100% anal about getting every ounce of possible power out of a saw (99%), lol. The thing to think about is not making the hole TOO big. A lot of numbers get tossed around, and people like Timberwolf and Cut4fun would be more helpful on specifics. I know Timberwolf has spent a lot of time and tried a lot of different things, and built the flow charts to show his findings. He is a wealth of knowledge.
Here's the thread.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,37525.0.html (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,37525.0.html)
Ed
I have a 372 and like it very much, I had (2) 365s and liked them too. Though for ten trees a month, I would probably go with the 372.
That being said .... if weight is no issue, try to get a used Stihl 066, which is 90cc. It had to be the most enjoyable all around saw I have used and weighs 3 pounds (18 something) less then the Mac 650/651.
Most of the saw is metal, not plastic. I considered that a bonus. It did not feel any heavier then a newer plastic 660.
.
Has anyone had experience running the 576XP. If so how does it compair to the 372XP?
I was wondering if the 576 has more power or uses more fuel?
Just test runs with the 576 in a big log at the ohio spring gtg where the 32" or 36" bar was buried. I was impressed with the stock not broken in first tank of fuel 576.
Al ran it more then me in the big wood. So maybe he will tell you how he felt about the 7?cc saw in the big wood?
If you are leaving a saw stock the 576 was impressive in the cuts.
Thanks Cut4fun,
I may lean towards the 576 instead of the 372XP since you had the saw burried in the wood and could feel it making a good cut. How would you say it compaired to a muffler modded 372XP would you say it was equal?
Maybe Al can get in on the conversation and add how he felt about the 576.
Thanks again,
Tom
That saw had plenty of guts,I'll say that for it .How it would compair to a 372 I have no idea ,can't ever remember operating a 372 and if it were at a GTG I doubt it would be in stock form anyway .
I also can't remember how much bar was on it either,either a 24 or 28" but it didn't phase it a bit buried to the hilt in what ever that hardwood log was ,oak or beech maybe,don't know . The thing was just a rch too large to nip straight through with a 36" bar unless you walked over the top a tad bit and came back around on it .Maybe 40 inches on the fat end more or less .
My take on it from just a few cuts is it had plenty of go for 75 cc's .I really think a leg up on a stock 046 for that matter . How it does after a day or two in woods I can't really say though .
Thanks Al,
I appreciate your input. I am now debating between a 372XP, 576XP, Stihl 460, or Dolmar 7900. I don't think I can go wrong with any of these. For most of my sawing a 20 inch bar works but when i get into a big tree I want to be able to throw on a 28" bar. I am hoping that a higher hp saw with the 20 inch bar will reduce my time per cut.
Thanks again,
Tom
A majority of my cutting is done with 70 to 80 cc saws,older ones that have been worked over in varied degrees .
From the list you just gave I think any of those saws will serve you well .
The average person doesn't get into really large stuff enough to warrent a 100 or above cc saw .They're nice on occasion but the occasion is usually so rare the cost is not justified unless you're a tree trimmer or west coast logger .
Since you mentioned that McCulloch I might add I cut a lot stuff ,really really a lot of stuff back in the day with a PM 610 Mac and it always got the job done .Still have the saw too . ;)
Sounds like a really good list. I run 372s but they aren't stock and they also aren't available anymore.
The 460 is a nice smooth saw and Stihls always seem to have a lot of torque but the oiler is a bit too stingy for running a 28" bar. There is a high output oiler available (it comes on the full wrap handle version) for about $90. I put one on a buddy's 460 and it solved his oiling issues, now the saw doesn't bind in the cut from lack of lubrication. I would consider the oiler upgrade mandatory for this saw, bars and chains are too expensive to skimp on oil.
I haven't run the big Dolmar or the new 576 so my only knowledge is what I've read on the forums.
372 576 460 7900
If you are leaving stock and you need dealer support for parts and to work on your saw if needed.
Dealer support would help make the decision.
Then I would go demo all the saws and go with what you like and feels good to work with. Good Luck on your choice.
I really like my 7900 when I had it, but found I had to order parts online alot due to my local dealer not being up to date on his stuff. 7900 stock has been the strongest saw I have ever run in the 13.6lb PHO weight with bar cover off how the factory weighed them.
I really like the feel of the Husky 372 also and have great dealers around me. I have a 372 with 375 top and a 365 special in the wings for a extra.
460 stock never impressed me power or weight wise and IMHO was over priced. But all saws have caught up with stihl pricing. JMO.
576 impressed me on the test run power wise, but who knows down the road.
Thanks for you input Al and Rocky
I cant tell you both how much I appreciate all your input since you both have a lot of logging experience. I am in awe of all the chainsaw wisdom you both have picked up over the years. Like you AL I still love my Mac but it's time I steped up to a more modern saw. I just think I will have trouble getting used to an angled bar on the newer saws as opposed to the straight bar. Oh well it shouldn't take long to get used to.
Rocky thanks for the advice on the 460. If I do go with any saw I do want the full handle wrap anyways so I'll get that high output oiler you mentioned. Thanks for that advice, I wouldn't have know that about the oiler if you hadn't told me. Makes you wonder why they don't automatically include it?
Again I appreciate both your input.
Thanks,
Tom
You kind of lost me when you said "angled "bar .The only angled bars I've ever seen are on old antique gear drive saws .
Like straight handle bars look at the Jonsered 2171.
http://www.a-chainsaw.com/jonsered-2171-turbo-ht28-wrap-handle-p-778.html
You got it Cut4fun,
I mean the straight handle bar as opposed to the angled handle bar. I see what you mean that the Joneered 2171 has a straight bar. Well I am going to try a few out and see what fit me.
Tom
Rocky,
Which saw do you think is easier to work on. The Husqvarna 372XP or the Stihl 460. I am depating between the two. I like the light weight of the Husqvarna but may be willing to deal with the heavier weight of the Stihl if it is easier to maintain and a smoother running saw.
Any thoughts on this?
Tom
Since you only want Rocky. :P ::) ;)
I can't really answer the 'easier to maintain' question because that has very little to do with the saw and a whole lot to do with the saw owner. I suggest you look at your local dealer network and lean towards the brand(s) with the best dealer support in your area.
Sorry Cut4fun didn't mean to cut you out or anyone else for that matter for giving their opinion on this one.
What is your take between the 372XP and 460. Have you run both or serviced any of them? I have a Husky and Sthil dealer which are both close to me and both know their equipment so service isn't an issue. I just want to work with something that is easy to maintain. I am leaning more towards the 372 because of the feel but was told that the Stihls were easier to work on.
Let me know what you think.
Tom
Quote from: tbrickner on October 04, 2009, 06:41:09 PM
Rocky,
Which saw do you think is easier to work on. The Husqvarna 372XP or the Stihl 460. I am depating between the two. I like the light weight of the Husqvarna but may be willing to deal with the heavier weight of the Stihl if it is easier to maintain and a smoother running saw.
Any thoughts on this?
Tom
The Husky is by far the smoother running saw. ;)
thanks Saw Troll,
I think that will push me toward the husqvarna 372 or 576. From what Rocky J said he thought the Stihls were rougher.
I hope some other people will post their opinions too.
Tom