Have recently added a 1030 Case farm tractor and loader to my yard equipment. Would like to find some plans for a grapple to hold logs while transporting to the ramp. I get long stuff from time to time and really need a better way of carting them around. Also on my wish list is a log turner for help with the big ones on the carriage. Have sure enjoyed the forum. Have a good one. Chuck
Chuck,its hard to beat a set of old forklift forks around the mill,mounted on the loader not the bucket.
visability is key with forks,and you don't get that when their mounted on a bucket.I mounted a multitech log grapple on my loader worked OK but not near as well as the forks i have now.
I have no idea how to do it,but why not mount a thumb on to the loader.Probaly would have to beef up the top part of the loader.Put another hyd line on with a lever and you have a thumb.Put the thumb on so it will not be in the way if you want to use it to scoop up sawdust.I can see what bandmiller means too.
Are you saying you want to drag the REALLY long logs out of the woods in line with the tractor as it drives out? I have a stand of old pines that are "littering" the forest floor as they sucumb to nature and maturity. We would like to "clean up the area" because we see it from our bay window. I was thinking of mounting a grapple on the FEL of a tractor or the front of a friends JD skidsteer to move them out inline with the machine. Once out I could then just grab them with a set of forks. Is this something like what you want? Reason I ask, is I just brought home (yesterday) a "spare" 600 lb grapple with a rotator. I think it is pretty well built and could be up for something like that if your tractor is big enough to handle it (I don't know how big a 1030 Case is).
Ironwood
why not use an attachment on the lift arms and drag them out behind the tractor?
I'm all confused.I took it as he wants to move logs around his yard,all ready in log lenght,8,10,12,14,16 footers.Not get them out of the woods.
I reread, it perhaps I was confused, maybe he just needs a way to keep them from swinging left and right as he turns the machine in the yard, before the ramp?
For my input, I ment that I just didn't want to have to get on and off the machine to chain or cable each one as I pulled them out of the woods.
Ironwood
A Case 1030 is a good sized farm tractor, well over 100 HP, and probably at least 10,000 pounds. Are you a welder? I made my own forks for my Kubota out of some old forklift forks. I made mine quick tach, but you could make them so they pin on in place of the bucket. A top clamp is in the works, will mount it on the hinge rod on the top.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/kubota2.jpg)
Dave
Morning Dave, Iron wood. What I meant was that I have forks on the 1030 that I built and mounted in place of the front bucket. More lift this way. What I need is a top mounted grapple or thump to clamp down on the load/log so it is solid as I motivate around the place. I have in the past laid a tractor over from a long log sliding side ways before I could throw it to the ground. On a hill and other factors involved but still sucks up a little seat fabric all said and done. I wish I could on a different subject afford that grapple and rotator for my old rig. But i'm still crawling and am just getting ready to walk around this mill rebuild. Even doing my own maching its a 100.00 here and a 100.00 there. Anyway enjoyed it, take care and have a good one. Chuck
What I plan on doing with my forks is to mount a thumb on the round bar on top of the fork frame and put a hydraulic cylinder on the top side of the thumb. I haven't decided how long to make the thumb. Longer would be nice for brush, but a shorter one would work for a single log. I am going to make sure the thumb will raise high enough to clear a lumber stack.
Are you trying to adapt the forks you have, or do you want to build an entirely new grapple?
Dave
Dave, I had a 48" pair I found in Ark. brought down to me. With the size of the bar 2.5" I fiqure I could maybe make a couple of arms that would sleeve over the bar and still allow room to slide the forks for a pallet if I wanted to. The forks are real nice and even thought about slicing them into and using parts for the arms. Just looking for ideas from some of the other fabricators. I'm a welder by trade oil field worker by profession and can do it, just always try and give it as much thought and research as I can. Iron is pricey here in La. So I guess this would be more of a top clamp. I think that would work well for me if it stays clear of the lumber stack. I installed a 3 spool valve when I mounted the loader on the tractor so hyds. are there and waiting. All ideas appreciated. Good sawing, Chuck
I have a block forklift here with a ton of super strong narrow forks on it (14,000lb lift capacity). They would work great for pairs of "lighter" weight forks (meaning llighter on the front loader and easy to see around) and could be mounted to a bar stock and be able to slide together in multiples for log moving or spread as individuals for brush and ect..... Could also work for a top "horn" to hold the logs on. I need to think about getting rid of them..............know you guys have me thinkiing (I need to get my welder out) Looks like 11 pieces total, they are somewhat invisable in the grass, they are white in the picture)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/Oyale3.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/Oyale4.jpg)r out). Heres a pic.
I'll agree with the forks being invaluable and they would be my first choice, but I LOVE a grapple for moving logs around the yard. Much faster and much less "spearing" damage to logs. Also, it is easier to place the logs on equipment such as the mill and firewood processor. It is a P.I.T.A. to remove the grapple to put forks on to move lumber stacks, however :-\
Captain
Chuck, I didn't realize you already have forks.The problem with the top clamp is getting enough travel from a hyd. cylinder,to clamp and then to get it out of the way.It doesn't take alot of force to hold a log steady on the forks what if you used a hyd. motor to rotate the clamp down.Smaller neater and out of the way.Frank C.
Evening Frank, that would work. I don't have one but should be able to rustle one up. Not sure of the application with trying to get 2 arms down on the log and back up out of the way. Can you explain your idea where a stump-jumper can understand?
Chuck, a feller really only needs one clamp,remember a three leg stool always sits steady.I don't know what your fork boom looks like but most have a big rod the forks slide on for adjustment.Fasten the arm to that shaft let it turn in its supports at the end and middle.Weld a sprocket to one end ,roller chain to the motor.Arm can pivot to clamp,forks can slide on shaft for adjustment.Orbital gear hyd. motors are high torque slow speed and are replaced quite often a used kinda worn one would work fine in this application.My friend you know much more than you let on,Keep us posted on your progress.Frank C.
Evening Frank, thats a fine idea. I have quite an assortment of # 60 sprockets from a bunch of old combines I stripped down. Your also right about the three point contact. My original thought was being able to grasp tree tops and walk with them to a burn area. But I believe I could still use it with one arm clamping down. As for as the mill I have enough 8# rail to manage 22' from center on the blade, so that would probably do. I should get the rest of it bolted down this hitch home and if the weather holds finish the carriage. It's on saw horses in front of the track ways. The frame was from another old mill that I will have to widen my steel carriage to fit. Will sink the rest of the split poles and concrete them in for the additionalroof coverage I want. I promised myself and the wife I would not saw until it was built, blasted and painted and all the safety guards and rails are in place. But boy is it slow when your by your self. Enjoyed the talk Frank. Chuck
Chuck,must be tough to be out on a rig thinking about your mill.But really getting their is most of the fun,like building a tree house when you were a kid.Log grapple think of an elephant,if you made the top pivoting arm adjustable for legnth,you could grab tops and brush easier.Frank C.
My neighbor has a set of these and they seem to work well and are relatively inexpensive. He has the small ones and I think he paid $800. Westendorf is a local company and has a great reputation. Click on the attachments, then brush crusher.
http://www.loaders.com/aspx/Product/Default.aspx
Chuck,guess you have plenty of power and I understand why you want a big spinner.A good nitch in milling is the ability to cut long timbers like 35 /40',not many mills can handle that.Right now I'am running a bandmill of my own manufacture but restoreing a circular mill.Ive got a 671 detroit to run it,or JD 70 diesel 2 cyl. tractor.My old big spinner was powered with a cat d318 power unit winter and steam engine summer.A good tip in restoring mills is to level your heavy duty horses all ways then when you install stuff like headblocks you just set them to level.I've probibly got enough parts for three mills.
Hey Frank, yeah the long stuff is fun sometimes. I've been working on a contract for drag line mats and one of the things they want is a source for longer timbers. Thats part of the reason for the upgrade and the beefy design. Either way it was time to move the mill. Here at home I could work on as I need rather than go work on it at the farm. All my tools are here and it just works out better. I just finished milling a 14" splitter disc on the lathe, the other some how got broke in the move. All the flat pulleys except the pair on the mandrel I bored out and put roller bearings in instead of just greasing the hubs. Should last till I get to old to play any more. I have a lot of ideas and am trying to weigh wants against actual needs but there's no hurry. Do it right the first time right? The carriage is coming along also. Would like to talk to you about the band mill. Thats my next project. Well after the wife's. I promised I'd remodel the bath before I tackle my next project. We swap back and forth. But I want a thin kerf band mill to say out some of the better ash and red oak I get. Just square it up and set it on the smaller mill for maximum bf. Talk to you soon. Chuck
Chuck using a bandmill as a resaw makes sense,alot of us here have built our own.I have alot of advice and I don't think their is a better place than this forum for help and ideas.You don't weld underwater do you Chuck?? Frank C.
Morning Frank, just got back out Wed. morning and still trying to catch up with my reading. I wouldn't get to comp. even if I had time at home. No I have never welded under water. That whole thing about water over my head want work. That being said I accepted a transfer to a 4700' deep water project. I stopped welding professionly when I hired on in production. Had to give those drilling rigs up. I have always been a welder and made a good living at it. Now i just do for the farm and all my own projects. A few old time customers also. When I get to the band saw design I will want to talk to you about it. The band makes less mess and saves more wood. Growing up with the big blades the bands just run to slow for me. Did I here you say you have mostly Lane's spinner parts? Mine is mostly Corley and American. Between Miss. and south La. I have just about all I want to fix it up right. I have a pc. of log deck like Dave's and will strip it down for parts. My wife works for ROM and they have a lot of scrap equipment that they auction from time to time. Sometimes you can pick up some good deals. Well it was good to here from you and will be here for 10 or 11 more days. Good sawing Chuck
Good to have you back Chuck,up here most mills are lane or chase and most are a mixture.I have at least the fixins of four carrages,and probibly three mills.You know the deal you want it you take it all.I will end up with a chase carrage and setworks on lane trucks with a lane arbor.The husk is the lane #1 ,massive cast iron with a topsaw.Not sure what I'am going to use for feed yet missing parts.Wish you were closer I've got enough carrage parts to make your carrage long enough to need a flagman at the end.Corley is a good mill they have been around a long time,and still are.Back in the handset mills hayday almost every local foundry made them,due to the size and weight they have always been pretty much a reagonal thing.Keep us posted Frank C.