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Author Topic: Advice on sawmill design  (Read 850 times)

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Offline Jrpitdog

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #20 on: November 09, 2017, 02:17:28 pm »
So if youall could have a couple hydro functions what would they be? Log lifter? Turner? Saw travel?
Have the hydraulics to the heavy or repetitive work
i would say these, in this order
Saw travel
log stops/log clamp
Turner
Log leveler, toe boards

a Log lifter can be a tractor to load the log onto the mill

a good source for hydraulic parts is
http://www.surpluscenter.com/

Ah yes surplus center I know it well, its where i ordered most of my log splitter parts years ago. I also know the boneyard at my work well😉

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #21 on: November 09, 2017, 04:23:39 pm »
So if youall could have a couple hydro functions what would they be? Log lifter? Turner? Saw travel?

Wheelchair motors are great for Saw travel...
Collector and builder of many things.
I have a
machine shop
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And a Weld shop
And now a saw mill
and a bunch of new forum friends.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #22 on: November 09, 2017, 06:03:55 pm »
Build high off the ground, even 2 story, in the back corner of the lot under a shed roof that sheds the snow out of the way. The mill should feed a nice lumber yard where it's easy to get around. I wish I had do ne this everyday.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #23 on: November 09, 2017, 08:26:25 pm »
Pitdog, I built my own band mill about 15 years ago and really had to change little. Have the bed of the mill at a handy working height. If you will have hydraulics you might as well have a turner and power feed. I chose to build a two plane clamp/turner and it does 90% of my clamping and turning. Leave yourself enough room around the band wheels to make band changing easier. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #24 on: November 09, 2017, 08:48:43 pm »
 Picture of the bunk out.


 

Picture of it in place. This is the 2x3 track that the heads rides on.

 

 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #25 on: November 09, 2017, 09:30:02 pm »
I like it. I may have to integrate that on mine. But I think I have the spacing pretty good to make it so I won't need it.
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline DbltreeBelgians

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #26 on: November 09, 2017, 10:58:08 pm »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum Jrpitdog.  I am a sawmill user not a sawmill builder, but following your progress will be interesting.

I have often visited Montrose and have a fascination for the Uncompahgre having hunted 61 once and 62 many times.  Grand Mesa is also a favorite spot.

Thanks,  my family and I love the western slope. I usually hunt 65, otc archery for me 😁

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Jrpitdog. Im envious of you living in Montrose. I grew up in Grand Jct and I got married in Gunnison Co up the Alpine Plateau Road at my parents place at Arrowhead Ranch. I hunted  fudd-smiley in 66 and some on Grand Mesa but not for quite a while now. I have a sister that still lives in Jct and someday Id like to come back to the Western Slope when I retire.

Brent

Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: Advice on sawmill design
« Reply #27 on: November 09, 2017, 11:34:22 pm »
Make it high enough.  Mine is about mid-thigh height.  If I have to turn a BIG log (manually), I hop up on the rail or even the bunk. 

I have moveable bunks designed after theCfarm's:

 

 

 

Sorry for the blurry pictures.  The 2x3 rail is supported by cutoffs of the material I used (IIRC 5# structural steel channel).  I had to grind off a little on the bottom of the channel on the bunks so they could slide in.  I use a 1/2" bolt to lock them in place.  The uprights are 3# structural along with a 2-" square tube to hold the log stops.

The T handle is a bolt to lock the log stop at the desired height.  The horizontal 2" tube has a slider for the log clamps.  The 2x3 angle is the actual log bunk.  The space between was supposed to have a jack to lift a toe roller - never got around to making them.

What I would do different (and will make them this winter) is better log clamps.  I have a not so good cam-like system that tends to move and lift the log a little.  I'm going to make the simple push down cam lock that someone posted on here - just have to find it again for the name credit.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 64' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.