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Author Topic: WM claim "Special two-plane clamping system simplifies sawing of stressed logs"  (Read 1260 times)

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Offline Peter Drouin

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You will always have 4 or 5 boards to edge per log unless you leave the 1x4,6 in the slab.
As you work your way down leave one edged board on the deck to clamp if you have too.
That worked well for me.
2008 LT40 super,2008 edger, Cat telahandler, JD 5410 And can cut up to 45' long
http://www.forestryforum.com/sanbornton     NH Timberland Owners Association supporter.
And a license NH soft wood grader.
Sawing since 1987

Online Chuck White

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I understand that the 2-plane clamp was designed that way, but it would be nice to be able to edge a 1" board all by itself!

I edge 1" boards on my mill, daily with my old "flipper" style clamp!  Makes it nice to be able to do that rather than throw another piece on the mill to hold it in place!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider
Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline Stuart Caruk

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With their design, you could move the clamp in to edge a 1" board, but then you would lose that travel when you wanted to clamp a larger log. Me I already think my clamp doesn't open far enough, and with an edger I see no reason to edge 1x's on the mill.
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker, Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.

Offline 4x4American

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Hey did you get the lx450 yet
Boy, back in my day..

Offline RPowers

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I pulled this quote from the Woodmizer web site "Special two-plane clamping system simplifies sawing of stressed logs". ...


So, my question is to WM sawyers with 2 plane clamps, does the 2 plane clamp actually help sawing stressed logs?

RIMwood,

I use my 2-plane clamp all the time for this. I saw 99% hardwoods, most of which are low-grade or sub-optimal trees for customers who want lumber made from "their" trees. I've sawn high-stress things like ash, small white oaks and hickories, and leaners and limbs of all kinds. You aren't going to avoid stress in the lumber, this is built-in to the way the fibers grew, so once a board is released from the cant it is going to bow or crook depending on how you laid the cuts out. You have to try and read the log and plan accordingly, but MOVE they will. The trick is to keep the cant itself from deforming while you are cutting which will produce boards that are thick-and-thin and not consistent. My method is thus:

1st face -  center log mass parallel to mill deck make cuts to get 50% of my desired board width from center if that doesn't take too much material from one side. Flip log 180 degrees to 2nd face

2nd face - with log flat on deck on 1st face, cut down to get desired board with in cant. Flip log 90 degrees to 3rd face

3rd face - center log mass parallel to mill deck, take just enough cuts down to get a nice square top, plus maybe one or two boards down from there if the log is large enough. Flip to last face

4th face -  If you haven't taken too many boards from the 3rd face the cant shouldn't be able to bend itself yet, so make sure both ends are supported by a bunk or roller and then clamp the crap out of the bottom and pull the clamp down to put slight down pressure on the bottom as well. Now I've found that I can start at the top and take the whole cant down one board at a time all the way to the bottom or "dog" board without any issues, because the 2-plane clamp holds the middle down and both ends are supported so they can't drop below the mill deck.

You have to do it this way, otherwise you are flipping the DanG thing every board or two to keep it flat. This way it isn't able to move, ever. Works great and less turning. Hope this helps someone. No one with the power of hydraulics on their mill should ever have to worry about flipping and turning to keep the stress out of a cant unless you make the mistake of letting the thing loose halfway through, then you get a banana. I know.....  :D

2013 Woodmizer LT28G25 (sold 2016)
2015 Woodmizer LT50HDD47

Offline RIMwood

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Thanks to all for the great input.
I have experimented flipping the cant but without the ability to get a good clamp on, it just don't work.

RPowers, yep thats the way I want to do it, good to hear it works for you. One question, do you leave the boards on the cant or do you take each board off as you cut?

I always mill by myself and I find it quicker and a lot less handling if leave the boards on then pick up the whole bundle with the loader. It does take more time for the up/down travel of the head height as you work your way down the cant, but those 2" x 12" x 16' are real busters to handle by yourself.

Offline mikeoverbey

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RIMwood,

I did the conversion http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,96848.20.html and am so happy with the outcome. I believe if you have the knowledge of electrical circuits and hydraulics and know how to weld, it becomes a straightforward process. It takes some time and thinking, but can be done. It depends on what your time is worth and if you like doing projects yourself, as I do.  Just don't let the idea of cutting and welding on a frame discourage you. Mine cut just as true after all the welding as it did before with absolutely no adjustments. In my opinion, this issue gets overrated. I've yet to hear of anyone messing up a frame. If you are familiar with jigs for assemblies, you'll immediately recognize that the woodmizer is basically built like one. By simply welding a piece across the cut, you'll assure yourself proper alignment. In theory, if you did get some welding shrinkage where the welds were able to pull against the frame, it MIGHT bow the frame toward the weld.  I tried to use the cutout to bridge the gap on the outside of the frame and didn't like the overlap---oops. I ended up welding another 2" strip around my bump-out for security.  I still didn't get any bowing in the frame.  All of my backstop dogs still line up.  I even took angular measurements with a digital inclinometer while doing this, to check the frames and saw no difference.

I'm not a real experienced sawyer but have hit the wrong control once or twice. The clamp doesn't pull down much when clamped on a cant. The two plane clamp is amazing and that is one thing I couldn't have had in a purchased mill of this vintage. My joystick setup really makes maneuvering the cants/logs easy.

Mike
Mike

Offline RPowers

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RPowers, yep thats the way I want to do it, good to hear it works for you. One question, do you leave the boards on the cant or do you take each board off as you cut?

I always mill by myself and I find it quicker and a lot less handling if leave the boards on then pick up the whole bundle with the loader. It does take more time for the up/down travel of the head height as you work your way down the cant, but those 2" x 12" x 16' are real busters to handle by yourself.

I usually cut a few boards, then drag them off the can't so I don't have to raise and lower the head so much. I rarely have equipment on portable jobs so this works for my needs. I forgot to clamp hard of the last face on a tall WO can't today and it jumped up an inch halfway through.That was a pain.
2013 Woodmizer LT28G25 (sold 2016)
2015 Woodmizer LT50HDD47