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Author Topic: My frist sawmill Frick 0  (Read 715 times)

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Offline TheWick

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My frist sawmill Frick 0
« on: September 13, 2017, 05:57:26 pm »
Every time I search Frick I end up reading in this form so I joined thanks for all the knowledge in here. My ? Is should I sand blast all cast parts or should I wire brush and oil. And can I use oak to restock carriage or is there a better wood I up loaded all the pics of my mill in my gallery I'll try to post some. 

 
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Offline moodnacreek

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2017, 07:18:48 pm »
The problem with oak [ white oak is best] is the movement with the seasons. Sawmills where often framed with heart SYPine. Either way you want straight grained high grade wood. Old dry stock if you can find it.  I wouldn't rule out D. fir.  Fricks are well loved mills, good luck.

Offline irvi00

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2017, 09:53:59 pm »
Wow, that pic brought back the memories. My dad owned a 0 frick for probably 30 years. Sold it and bought an Edmiston hydraulic. That old frick is still sawing about 10 miles from here. Tough as a nail. His was all steel, so I can't comment on what wood you should use. But as stated above, high grade, clear and dry wood.

Offline Weekend_Sawyer

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2017, 10:04:10 pm »
Welcome to the Forum Wick.

I love White Oak but if you build a shed roof over your mill then pine would be easier to work with.

I just replied really to say welcome aboard.
Jon

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Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2017, 06:52:24 am »
I went through your gallery pictures, and the wood doesn't look to be in too bad of shape.  There may be a few spots that might need a new piece, but I wouldn't invest the time or money to replace most of it.  If you do need to replace, SYP heartwood is what Frick used.  Make sure its dry and the size matches. 

As for rust, I'm not sure I would worry too much about that.  Wire brush and oil will get off all the loose stuff.  Sand blasting would be needed only if you are going to paint it.  If you're putting it under a roof, I don't see much use in painting.  That surface rust should be knocked off as you use it.  The headblocks were pulled front, so that should have helped keep rust off the flats.  Even that will polish up as you use it.

The places for concern would be in the bearings, as they tend to dry out after sitting.  I would also look at getting a grooved pulley over the flat belt pulley.  You'll might need to replace the belts in the husk, but they actually look pretty good. 

That's my impression given the photos.  But, that may change as you tear things apart.  I'm assuming you also got a head saw.
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2017, 08:07:20 am »
I can see the rear carriage beam has been patched. Nothing wrong with a wood mill if it has a roof over its head. The wood carriage on my old Chase was almost worn through from sawdust erosion, I chose to go steel for replacement. If your going to do a lot of milling I would consider steel, if just puttering around replace the rotted piece with the driest most stable wood you can find. As stated Douglas fir is a decent replacement. Steer clear of pressure treated as they  rarely stay straight. Old cast iron is almost forever, wire brush it if your going to paint if not leave it alone. Sandblasting drives grit into every seam and pieces must be completely stripped and cleaned. Believe me you don't want to mess with the shaft that moves the head blocks ,once rusted together with their gears they are best left alone. Good luck. Frank C.
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Offline TheWick

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2017, 03:48:29 pm »
Thanks for the warm welcome. This saw will eventually get cover but at frist probly just tarps. I'm still not exactly Shure how close to set the husk to the rails that hold the carriage but I'm Shure I'll figure it out. I need to find some one local that has a running one for me to see up close.
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Offline ddcuning

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2017, 08:03:16 pm »
Welcome to the FF, good to see another Frick. I sandblasted all of mine and it was a chore but I wanted to completely restore and paint it from the beginning so that is the route I took. I agree with Ron, if you are just looking to use it, wire brush it off and oil it.

As you do setup, check bearings as Ron suggested. Also check side to side play in carriage axles and check tolerance on saw collars. All of that will play into how accurately it will saw. 

Dave C
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Offline TheWick

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2017, 08:33:25 pm »
Well I brought my mill home this weekend and it's in worse shape wood wise than I thought I will be using steal as suggested now. Looks like the worst part will be tapping the carriage tails to put in the flat metal and raised metal. 

  

 
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Offline TheWick

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2017, 08:35:13 pm »
 

 
Life's to short to work all the time.

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #10 on: September 18, 2017, 08:46:24 pm »
Are you planning on using channel or tube?
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Offline ddcuning

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #11 on: September 18, 2017, 09:16:55 pm »
Go with channel rather than tube. My old carriage was tube and I found that when I tightened down on the headblocks, it got more and more out of whack. That is because thru bolting on a tube changes its shape as the bolt is tightened and throws off the alignment of the carriage. Doesn't help when your carriage is bent either. I had a new C channel frame built to replace my old tube built carriage.

Dave C
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Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: My frist sawmill Frick 0
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2017, 07:30:50 am »
That's what our large carriage had.  Tube was used for the track.  There was nothing tapped on the frame.  All was through and wedges were used to accommodate the thickness variation in the C channel to keep the nuts and washers flat.
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