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Author Topic: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic  (Read 1827 times)

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Offline mikeoverbey

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #20 on: July 10, 2017, 09:12:22 am »
D6C, youre right again.  I had always thought the fan blade turned the other way to pull air out.  It wasn't until I read that it was a CENTRIFUGAL fan that the little light bulb turned on in my head.  So I'm happy again.  Thanks for the insight!!

Mike
Mike

Offline mikeoverbey

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #21 on: September 05, 2017, 05:38:25 pm »
I had some time and finished my loader arms.  I used 3D modeling extensively to get the geometry to work out correctly.  I referenced many different angles of the woodmizer loader arms to insure I wasn't going to miss something.  After I was satisfied with my drawings, I sent the cad files out to be bid on for waterjet cutting.  My handheld plasma would just be barely adequate on the 3/4" plate and the cut quality and cleaning up would make it even more of a chore. 
I used 3" welded cylinders, 5" channel and some 1/4" plate for the hinge brackets.  Spoiler alert:  You anti-welding-on-the-frame guys better not look any further.  Since the geometry had been worked out on cad, everything went together like a fine puzzle.  I cut the channel flanges and then put the piece into my hydraulic press and bent it into the correct angle.  Once satisified, I welded the braces in place.  Cutouts were made for relief of the hydraulic hoses throughout their respective arcs of rotation.  After welding the hinge barrels and trial fitting, I drilled and tapped them all for grease zerks.







I used a piece of 4" dia 1/4' pipe for the anti-torsion connector.



And finally, i painted the Briggs engine tin black...just couldn't stand the maroon and orange together.



It's all done now, I saw it go up and down and then all the years of wear and tear on my back caught up with me and sent me to surgery.  I'm recovering now and getting other things done.  Hopefully I'll get a chance to finish out the plans for my toeboards.  That will be the last thing done to the mill in terms of hydraulics.  I will also replace the wheel hubs with electric brakes.  I just have to wait until I can bend down again.

Mike
Mike

Offline D6c

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #22 on: September 05, 2017, 06:57:47 pm »
Looks great....I'm going to have to seriously consider doing the same on my mill once I get the rest of the mods done.

Offline Magicman

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #23 on: September 05, 2017, 09:21:00 pm »
That is very nicely done.  Am I seeing fuses on the connectors?
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline grouch

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #24 on: September 05, 2017, 09:39:05 pm »
Wait...

You show that beautiful work and then end with back surgery?!?

That's gotta be some torture. We get to look at it without the frustration, so thanks for sharing!
Find something to do that interests you.

Offline mikeoverbey

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #25 on: September 06, 2017, 09:57:14 am »
I did not use fuses just like I didn't use sequence valves in the turner/backstop circuit. What you are seeing are simple extensions to get the connector out the back of the "foot" to be able to connect to a 90 fitting and not have it make contact and break off during its rotation. 

 It became a decision based on safety, amount of complication and expense.  Having worked around enough hydraulics and having hoses blow at times, I have a reasonable idea of the consequences.  On commercial airplanes we have them to prevent all fluid loss leaving the aircraft possibly uncontrollable-very useful.  On tractors, most don't have them although the loads are often way higher off the ground than the woodmizer possible causing tipping problems.  I decided the best thing would be not to stand in front of the log while loading.  In the event a hose blows, it'll probably be on the upstroke.  The downstroke fluid will provide some resistance as it lowers and I will lose fluid.  The expense of the fluid wouldn't pay for the fuses for me, as a hobby sawyer.  Sorry, that was long.

Back surgery has come a long way.   They used to cut you wide open, injuring all the muscle on the spine.  The surgeon did mine via two holes through the muscles, each 1.5" long.  They removed the disc and fused the two lumbar vertebrae with rods.  It was outpatient surgery and I walked out and went home.  I walked 400 yds that evening.  The next day I took two 1/2 mile walks, and just keeps getting easier.  I had been laying flat on the floor for the previous three weeks-literally.  I went off pain meds on Labor Day.  Its truly unbelievable.

Mike
Mike

Offline Magicman

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #26 on: September 06, 2017, 01:33:54 pm »
Thanks for the update on your back surgery, and hopefully you will continue to make your recovery.

The fuse question was just out of curiosity.  It is obvious that you are experienced and have done your homework.   smiley_thumbsup
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline RIMwood

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #27 on: November 08, 2017, 10:44:44 am »
Great job, super helpful! Thanks for sharing.
I think I might attempt it over the winter on my 2002 LT40. A little hesitant on cutting the frame, but I really want the 2 plane clamp.

The toe boards will have a selector valve to operate either, since I needed 7 circuits, but this was 1/2 price of what it would have cost to put on a stack valve unit.
Do you have any more details on the selector valve? Which one where you got it.

Also, is there any chance you could share the drawings for the backstop arms?

Offline mikeoverbey

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #28 on: November 08, 2017, 05:06:50 pm »
I have the Prince MB 6 valve unit. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/6-Spool-8-GPM-Prince-MB61BBBBBB5C1-DA-Valve-9-7866.axd  I bought one off eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRINCE-WOLVERINE-6-SPOOL-HYDRAULIC-VALVE-MB61BBBBBB5C1-8-GPM-3500-PSI-SAE-PORTS/251891501205?epid=0&hash=item3aa5e74895:g:5~YAAOSweW5VEacd .  I then added the joystick, an extra $80 but I love it.   I decided against the sequence valve in the loader-dog circuit.  I'm sure it's a good safety, but it's something else to fail and I can work them independently.

I sure would share whatever drawings I made/have. I didn't dimension the backstop/dog arms, just printed and traced with a plasma cutter. The critical dimension is centerline to centerline of the holes, and I do have those.  Your 2002 will probably have a different shape( a straighter arm) on the no. 2 dog, but again the holes are critical, shape is for clearance. You'll figure it out. Surprisingly the backstop linkages and clearances from obstructions underneath the bunks took the most planning.  You just have to see where things are located to run your tie rods, then adjust how far each arm is welded to each dog, off the main beam for reference.    I hope that is clear??

Mike
Mike

Offline RIMwood

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #29 on: November 08, 2017, 08:19:42 pm »
Thanks for the reply Mike. Not surprized that the backstop dog arms and linkage took the most planing. Maybe I should do the clamp and turner first and work the arms and linkage around them and what ever else is in the way. I was thinking your drawings for the arms might give me a starting point.

The joy stick is a great idea, I'm definitely going with that. I may even have two of them, one for the 2 plane clamp and one for the pineywoods turner. Woodmizer quoted me $1800 for their turner, that's more then the clamp, so I'm not using their turner.

As you mentioned the Prince MB 6 valve is half the cost of a stack valve, so I want to go with the MB valve but that leaves me one valve short. 2 for the clamp, 2 for the pineywoods turner, 1 for the back stops, 2 for the toe boards, don't need the log loader. I wasn't clear, but I was referring to the electric selector valve you used to switch between the front and rear toe boards. From the pictures it looks you mounted an electric switch on the right side of the MB valve. I'm assuming the switch is connected to some kind of solenoid diverter vale. Any details on where you got that and how you made the connection would be really helpful.

Offline mikeoverbey

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #30 on: November 08, 2017, 08:45:59 pm »
$1800 for the turner??  Sounds real high.  If it is the claw turner, it is real simple.  I was going to make it, but when WM told me like $400 for it, I bought it. I did t have one to take measurements from, and by the time I designed one, I felt it was money well spent. The two-plane was expensive at $1600, but when you see the size of steel and chromed rods, add the cylinders and design time, I also felt it was worth it.

I did the frame cut, clamp, then turner, then dogs,  I added the loader arms later. I did t think I would need them, but after loading logs and seeing how things go awry in an instant, not being able to see the fork tips, banging the frame, etc., I went ahead and built them. They can lift 4500 lbs, my tractor only 1500.

I haven't built the toe boards yet.  They're on the back burner,  I use a wedge, if needed, for the first two cuts right now. Figure out the thickness needed, hold log up against dogs with turner, lift log with 2-plane clamp, place wedge.  I have only done that a couple times, but have only sawed 2000 bdft or so. I will use a double selector valve from surplus center, unless I see a deal somewhere. I will mount it below the selector valves and it is a push, pull type. I turn my pump solenoid on with that simple switch mounted near the selector valve. I was going to do an automatic option operated by sawhead position, but found it unnecessary. I turn the pump on and do the log manipulation. No need for the pump to turn off everytime I release a lever. With an open center system, it pulls very few amps when a lever is not selected.  When done, I flip the switch off. Simple.
Mike

Offline RIMwood

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Re: Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic
« Reply #31 on: November 08, 2017, 09:22:17 pm »
Ok now I understand, I just assumed you did the toe boards.
I like to cut a cant from top to bottom leaving the boards on the mill and then come in with forks and lift the cant bundle as one. With toe boards I could raise the bundle off the deck giving me room to maneuver the forks under the bundle. what I do now is put straps under the bundle and loop them over the forks. Eliminating the straps would just save a little time.