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Author Topic: What settings to kill PPB?  (Read 2369 times)

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Offline WDH

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #20 on: April 30, 2017, 10:06:20 am »
If that red oak and white oak was not sprayed with borate once you sawed it, and if you just plan to sell it air dried versus kiln dried with a heat treatment, you do risk having PPB's in the wood, and that could cause some pain and suffering.  In Georgia, my experience has been that if you do not spray or do not kiln dry with a heat sterilization at the end, the risk of PPB's is a real issue. 
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Offline flatrock58

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #21 on: April 30, 2017, 02:25:32 pm »
WDH.  Thanks for the input.  I am planning on building my solar kiln soon, and will also be looking at a way to sterilize wood.
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Offline jaciausa

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #22 on: May 02, 2017, 04:36:52 pm »
Are there PPBeetles in Iowa? or are they a differant type of beetle? I found this article from  the Iowa Extension website that says they are not a problem.https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/powderpost-beetle

Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #23 on: May 03, 2017, 07:39:58 am »
There are four or five technical errors in this document from Iowa Extension.
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Offline jaciausa

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #24 on: May 03, 2017, 01:58:08 pm »
Thanks for response. I know you  know the facts about the beetles. I researched it a little more and found that the damage from the  false powderbeetle is one of the important bits of information left out. I had searched only on the PPB.

Is the FPPB responsible for Oak Wilt & would trees infected be quarantined or just a good standard? 

Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #25 on: May 03, 2017, 03:14:39 pm »
It is not related to wilt
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Offline Brad_bb

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #26 on: May 13, 2017, 11:56:35 am »
Yes, PPB in Iowa.  I would imagine that they are everywhere. 
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Offline MbfVA

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #27 on: July 12, 2017, 08:19:15 pm »
We have entertained a bunch of "bugs" in the basement supporting members of our National Register listed log cabin over the years, with plenty of pin sized holes to prove it. Every exterminator has told us that they will not bring the building down, that they are merely a nuisance, aesthetically.   The only truly effective removal strategy is to tent the building & use a gas not much different from the Nazi death camp variety, three days with security posted.

 I wonder if heating up the basement to 150 for 24 hours would do it?   That's a lot less risk than a dangerous gas, and a lot cheaper.

31+ Years here, and we're still standing.  FYI the building was built in stages from the late 1920s to the late 30s.  The construction ranges from pure log, to slab sides, to conventional framing.   Because of leaks in the HVAC ductwork the basement stays dry and conditioned.  Mostly dirt floor.
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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #28 on: July 12, 2017, 10:43:53 pm »
Each crop of insects, if they are still active, makes tunnels in the wood.  These tunnels have a combined effect of weakening the wood, little by little.  If the structure is built six times stronger than needed, you can indeed lose a lot of strength.
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #29 on: July 13, 2017, 03:58:21 am »
We have entertained a bunch of "bugs" in the basement supporting members of our National Register listed log cabin over the years, with plenty of pin sized holes to prove it. Every exterminator has told us that they will not bring the building down, that they are merely a nuisance, aesthetically.   The only truly effective removal strategy is to tent the building & use a gas not much different from the Nazi death camp variety, three days with security posted.

 I wonder if heating up the basement to 150 for 24 hours would do it?   That's a lot less risk than a dangerous gas, and a lot cheaper.

31+ Years here, and we're still standing.  FYI the building was built in stages from the late 1920s to the late 30s.  The construction ranges from pure log, to slab sides, to conventional framing.   Because of leaks in the HVAC ductwork the basement stays dry and conditioned.  Mostly dirt floor.

They will bring a building down. I have proof of that...
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #30 on: July 13, 2017, 07:40:36 am »
Why not spray the place with insecticide like Timbor or similar? It will not kill the insects in the wood, but will kill the ones who emerge, or the ones who come up to lay eggs, and will interrupt the life cycle of future infestations.

I would probably also treat the earthen floor, as well as spray with a long lasting professional grade contact pesticide.

The folks who are telling you the critters won't bring the place down are the ones who don't own it.  I have seen old barns and other structures brought down by bugs.  That's what they do. 
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Offline Lookin4GoodLife

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #31 on: October 29, 2017, 10:59:07 pm »
So if you heat sterilize the boards when you kiln dry them, what stops bugs from getting in them later, say if you build a barn with these boards?

Edit:  Ah, just googled Timbor.  I'm guessing after the structure is built, you would treat it with Timbor to prevent future infestations.  :)

Offline WDH

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #32 on: October 30, 2017, 07:58:44 am »
Yes.  If you saw the lumber, spray it right off the saw before you sticker it.  Then, you can air dry or kiln dry it.  They will not get in the wood.  However, if you plane it, you might have to re-treat because the borate does not penetrate too deeply in the wood and you can plane much of it off.  Bora-care is meant to penetrate more deeply, but it is quite expensive.
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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: What settings to kill PPB?
« Reply #33 on: October 31, 2017, 11:07:51 pm »
I would not say all, but almost all lyctid powder post beetles come from wood that is infected and stored adjacent to uninflected wood.  So, with good concern and appropriate action, about where the dry, sterilized wood is stored, there is no risk and so no need to treat the wood when it is very wet with the mentioned borate.  Once dry, applying borate treatments are not too attractive as they rewet wood and that means only an outside barrier is treated and the rewetting can make checking quite a bit worse.  Also, note that the lyctid PPB F. 

Note that borate treated wood will leach out a lot of borates if exposure to liquid water.
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