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Author Topic: Grinding/hand filing thread...let's see upclose pics of your chains guys!!!!  (Read 7325 times)

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Offline XP_Slinger

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Recently took up the black magic task of square filing just for fun.  I'm getting there I think, freehand is a little more difficult when square filing.
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Offline khntr85

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Ok guys I bought a used Stihl usg a few weeks ago....these are great grinders built like a tank...

 Here is RM safety chain I sharpened on the USG...I dont throw out safety chains like some guys do...they are perfect for stumping or using when wood may have metal in it!!


Offline khntr85

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Ok guysbhere is a prime example of why I keep safety chains and use them in wood that may contain foreign materials....I was noodling some huge em pieces and hit something hard....

  Here are pics of the damage...the last pic is after I fixed the chains...



  Ok here is the chain after I ground we back into shape...


Offline khntr85

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Speaking of square filed chain I tried my hand at converting a round filed chain to a square file...I have 2-loops of Oregon square chain now so it will be a lot easier to follow the factory grind...I still haven't ran any of the square chain, but I am anxious to try them...

  Anyway here is my first ever attempt at turning a round filed chain into a square filed chain...and yes this is an Oregon vanguard chain, and no i didn't gut the rakers....I was just seeing what it's like to square file!!!

Offline sablatnic

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At long last I remembered taking a few pics before I started sawing wood and sand. (Tuff job being a sawchain less than a mile from the coast!)
And yes, I am running semi chisel. Full chisel would last only a few minutes.

Hand filed - a file takes less space in my pocket than a grinder, and I cut a mix of soft and hardwood, whatever people want removed. And hedges!  :-(

 

  

  

  

 

Offline khntr85

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At long last I remembered taking a few pics before I started sawing wood and sand. (Tuff job being a sawchain less than a mile from the coast!)
And yes, I am running semi chisel. Full chisel would last only a few minutes.

Hand filed - a file takes less space in my pocket than a grinder, and I cut a mix of soft and hardwood, whatever people want removed. And hedges!  :-(

 

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Hey nice job man...

 I got the snap a few pics of the semi-chisel chain I do on my usg grinder...the outside profile looks just like the first pic of the right hand cutter....

 There is a fine line of to much gullet or to much beak...

Offline clairmont

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hi there, anyone had those  problems ,after I grind my chain, there is a burr on top of the cutter that does not go away while sawing, also after its been ground a file just slide on the tooth like it was glass; the tooth is not burn blue;I use CBN wheel and clean it with the white stone;my grinder is a Super Joly Speed SharpAuto, what could I be doing wrong! thanks

Offline d1hamby

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Try cutting some harder wood? Can we see what your talking about?
Own a Stihl 362 16" 0.050" carbide and steel, and 25" 0.063" Stihl 020T
Stihl KM131R, 130R and KM56R with several Brush Cutter and Weed Trimmer heads. Pole Pruner (with 10", 12" w/wo Carbide, and 16" bar&chains) , Blower, Modified 135 Hedge Trimmer, Straight Edger, Bed Edger, Tiller Kombi attchment

Offline John Mc

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hi there, anyone had those  problems ,after I grind my chain, there is a burr on top of the cutter that does not go away while sawing, also after its been ground a file just slide on the tooth like it was glass; the tooth is not burn blue;I use CBN wheel and clean it with the white stone;my grinder is a Super Joly Speed SharpAuto, what could I be doing wrong! thanks

I had a few chains in my past that had the odd link as hard as glass right from the factory (Woodland Pro/Carlton or Total). If it happens only after you've ground it, the hand file sliding like glass is because you overheated your tooth when grinding. Even if you can't see a color change, you have overheated it. The alloy that most chains are made of is one that will "air-harden": that is, if it's heated up to a high enough point, it will quench in air (rather than requiring a dip in water or oil to quench it). It will be especially noticeable on smaller parts and thin, sharp corners - like the cutting edge of your chain.

Often it's just a very thin shell on the tip of the cutting edge. You won't see the whole tooth glowing, because it's just being overheated at that thin micro-edge (in fact, the body of the chain might be acting like a quench medium and drawing heat out from the cutting edge so fast that it helps to harden the edge.)

Someone who does more grinder sharpening than I can describe this better, but you need to use a very light, intermittent touch on the grinder. Think zzt-pause-zzt-pause barely touching the tooth, rather than a longer bzzzzzzzzzzt.  If the wheel is clean, as you say, it's possible a longer cut and/or to high a pressure on the tooth when grinding is causing this (again, I'll defer to the guys who do a whole lot more grinding than I do.)

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline John Mc

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One addition to the comment I made above:

Once you have hardened a tooth by overheating, you can ruin a whole lot of hand files trying to file through that hardened spot. IMO, the best way to get past this is to put it back on the grinder and re-sharpen using the proper technique.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow