How much risk...long question

[TreeSpyder]

In good wood i think the direction of added wedge push or line pull should be to target, not to neutralize sidelean.  Pulling to target strengthens hinge, then that leveraged multiplier in turn fights lean.  Pushing or pulling balance to center by countering lean unloads hinge that could be working for you.  Also, the imbued properties of the strength increase in hinge will carry at the balance the tree is actually in.  The wedge or line force is only temporary, so tree goes back to unbalanced pulls once tension is off either device; but the hinge forced to carry the actual balance, will carry it the full sweep of the hinge, rather than just until the tension comes off wedge or rope i think.

Moving such large force on the spar, should make sure there is no impedance to clear, smooth, quick travel as mentioned; but especially in the face; lest ye overcome the strength of the spar's column with the escalating loading inside, unseen, underneath the bark.  BarberChair

[bassfisher]

in my very limited scope of felling danger trees, i have 'wussed out' by using my backhoe claw to direct the trees fall.  up in these parts, widow makers are a big concern and not a year goes by where some poor soul that has spent his lifetime cutting and felling in the northwoods loses his life or gets injured by a falling dead limb.
if you don't own a hoe, it may still be worthwhile to hire one to nudge the tree in the right direction.  and far less embarassing than explaining to the insurance adjuster why the tree dropped dead centre of the living room....

[1953greg]

edge, i would rephrase the question.  can you afford the risk?  if not then let someone else do the job or put enough lines (2 minimun) on the tree so that you are sure where it will fall.  how bout some before and after pics?  thanks

[slowzuki]

I got a little scare on the weekend, I've been felling spruce and fir in thick woods the last few weekends.  It is dense and I'm not clear cutting so at best my directional felling gets them over at a 45 deg angle then I winch them down with the snatch block set low.

All my cuts have been as follows:

Notch, plunge cut to form hinge then sweep to form holding strap on one side of back, insert wedges, cut strap.

It has worked perfectly and have been placing the trees accurately, have done just shy of 50 large trees this way in the last month.  Last tree of the day yesterday I had just driven the wedges when a good wind came up.  My hinge was a little thin and the tree popped the hinge.  I had cleared two exit routes and got clear no problem.  The tree didn't go over all the way due to the heavy upper story but it was about 30 degrees off from heading towards our 2 week old tractor!

I had just moved the tractor a bit further from the tree but not completely clear as I wanted to use the winch to pull this tree down.

This is just a reminder things don't always go as planned!

I inspected the stump later and when I pivoted the plunge cut I let the tip swing out and cut some of my hinge without noticing it.