Interior door plans

[Patty]

Hey there!

I attended my first woodworking class last night. Wow it was great! They have the coolest tools I've ever been around, and believe it or not, they are going to let me use them! I decided for my class project that I would make the interior doors for our upstairs bedrooms. The style I want to make is similar to the one pictured below.
http://www.spiritelements.com/images/products/large/1842.jpg

I am wondering if any of you have a set of plans for a door like this that I could use. I appreciate your help.

Thanks,
Patty

[Larry]

Think 6-panel doors are pretty much standard fair.  Just not used to seeing a 4-panel door.  I can measure the rails and stiles on our 36" doors but that is about all the help I can do.  Really liked your front door.  Take a lot of pictures of the interior doors as you make them.  I would like to try it but always was scared of them warping.

Little triva – anybody know the religious connotation of 6-panel doors?

[james]

Patty sorry no plans (im in a 18 wheeler in Ft Pierce Fl and my plans are at home in Republic Wa) but from experiance the pannels in the middle of the door need to be a slip fit not glued in place  the grain running at different angles can break the boards if the pannels cant move (experiance )

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Ya outta get ahold of DonE911 in Ft. Pierce. He works for the Emergency Services. We are just 30 miles north of you, in Sebastian.

[Patty]

So, Harold, are you thinking I need to get the emergency services on alert before I go back to class next Monday?  

The front door I made I used biscuits to join it together, I want to use the  joint & tenon  (sp?) method on the inside doors. The first one will be made of cherry, that we cut off the farm. I had been thinking about making the raised panals out of a contrasting wood, like walnut or something, but I'm afraid it might look too busy.

Do any of you home builders or craftsmen have experience in door making?

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Nahhh Patty. I was directin my comment to James. Course, I think you knew that.

[Hokiemill]

Hey Patty.  I built a mahogany storm door for the front of our house and I need to build a replacement front door, but haven't found the time yet.  Doors are all pretty much the same whether they are storm doors, exterior doors, interior doors, or cabinet doors.  Rails, stiles, and floating panels.

James is right, in that you definitely do not glue your panels in place.  The joinery is pretty straight forward - mortise and tenon.  The only oddity is usually the bottom rail - it's rather wide and is usually attached to the stiles with two separate tenons or two tenons with a small haunch tenon between.

Here's a link to a pretty good picture of what I"m talking about with the tenon:

LONG LINK

Here's a link to a step by step set of instructions for a screen door.  Not the same as yours but the concept is the exact same:

LONG LINK

This storm door used flat panels in the lower section.  You would do everything the same but your panel would look a little different.  Lots of different ways to do raised panels.  Depend a lot on what tools you have available.  They can be cut on a table saw, on a router table with a horizontal bit, on a router table with a vertical bit, or even by hand with a panel plane (yeah, who are we kidding, we're a power tool bunch here).

This link shows a review of a vertical bit in a router table to give you a general idea:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infvertpnlbitrvu.html

The mortise and tenons can be made a hundred different ways as well.  Once again, this depends on the tools you have available and which method you like the best.

As for dimensions of rails and stiles - run to your local Lowes, etc. and pull dimensions off of the doors they have in stock that have proportions that are pleasing to your eye.

One final thing - I agree with your thoughts about the door looking too busy with contrasting wood.  Cherry is absolutely beautiful by itself, especially after a year or two and it has darkened in color.  I know this is all a bunch of blabbing on my part and I hope that it doesn't make things seem more difficult than they are.  Doors are pretty straightforward and I'm sure yours will look great when done.

[Patty]

Thanks, Hokiemill, the links you provided are perfect. The shop we get to use has all the coolest tools, including a shaper to make the raised panals, and a  mortise & tenon machine. He (the shopteacher) demonstrated the shaper, but I haven't seen the mortise & tenon machine yet.

No, Larry, I don't know the religious conotation of the 6 panal door.....what is it?

[Larry]

Don’t know if the design is based on fact or if this is just a story but if you look at a 6 panel door you see a cross in the top half and open bible in the bottom half.

I’m sure you will do fine making your door.  The only thing I would think about is the raised panel may shrink dependent on MC.  Lot of people pre-finish the panel (myself included) before assembly so an unfinished strip won’t show when it does shrink.  Other people flood the finish with a blowgun after assembly.

Contrasting woods are pretty cool but most of the time less is more.  Cherry door with walnut strip inlay?  I have tried all kind of things.  Some worked and some didn’t.  I hate to duplicate something that can be store bought so I’ll normally try something off the wall.  Guess that is what makes woodworking fun to me.

[shopteacher]

Patty,
 I use rail and stile cutters with the shaper to cut matching profiles for the rail and style of my doors.  1 3/8" for interior and 1 3/4" for exterior.  On a standard door I usually make the stiles (vertical members) 5" to 6" wide and the rail (horiz. members) 9" to 12" on the bottom and adjust the others to my liking. I cut the center mullon the same as the outer stile and as it's shaped on both sides to receive the panel it appears smaller in the center of the door.  The cutters I have cut a 3/8" deep slot so I cut the panel 5/8" larger than the openings. You can buy little rubber balls called spaceballs to go in the bottom of the groove to keep the panel from rattleing or I've taken silicon sealant and squeeze a bead out on waxpaper and let it cure and then cut it into small pieces and put that in the bottom of the groove.  This allows for expansion without having the panels move around in the door.
  As stated earlier I prefinish the panels to keep unfinished wood from showing if the panel shrink due to heat & humidity.
 The cope and stick joint makes a very strong joint due to the large amount of surface area.  The glue area is as long as the rail is wide and has several internal surfaces for glue to lay.
 Almost forgot, congratulations on taking the class and have fun.

[Patty]

I've read your post many times trying to understand all that you are telling me, Shopteacher. Please don't sigh and shake your head when you read my questions  .

First question: The rails and styles,  how are you joining them?  I had supposed that these would be joined by the mortice &  tenon method.

Second question: I've done some reading about the  cope & stick joint, and as far as I can tell, this method is used to connect the raised panals to the rails and styles, am I understanding this correctly? I therre more to it that this groove?


Third question: About this cope & stick joint. Aren't you just cutting a groove into the rail & style for the edges of the panal to fit into?  Am I misunderstanding this joint somehow?

I've got until Monday to get this all figured out, so I can go into the class with a plan to execute.

[trim4u2nv]

THESE GUYS ;LISTED BELOW HAVE A GOOD ILLUSTRATION HOW TO MAKE COPE AN STICKER JOINTS.  I HAVE DOORS THAT WE MADE TWENTY YEARS AGO IN GOOD SHAPE WITH JUST GLUE HOLDING THEM TOGETHER.   I ALSO USED THRU MORTISE CONSTRUCTION, DOWELS, AND LAG BOLTS ALSO.   BUT FOR INTERIOR CONSTRUCTION THESE METHODS ARE PROBABLY OVERKILL.  GRIZZLY AND FREUD SELL COMPLETE CUTTER SETS FOR SHAPERS.  YOU CAN ALLOW FOR DIFFERENT THICKNESS BY USING A DIFFERENT MIDDLE CUTTER FOR INTERIOR VS EXTERIOR DOORS.  BE SURE TO USE A SLED WITH A BACKUP (COPE CUT) RAIL TO PREVENT CUTTER TEAROUT ON RAIL ENDS.
http://www.weaver-sales.com/catalog-cutters-house-door-delux.htm

[shopteacher]

Patty,
I try and explain it better and have taken some picture of my setup pieces that will probably explain it better than me.
 1. The rails and stiles are joined with carpenters or polyurethane glue. The cope and stick joint is similar to a mortise and tenon.
 2. It's not used to connect the raised panel "to" the rail and stile, as the panel is never physically joined to the rail and stile.  The cope provides a matching face for the stick on the joining parts ( rail & stile). The cope continues the length of the style and around the mullion and center rail to form the Grove for the panel to reside in.
 3. It is a grove and more with an identical opposite matching face. Cope on edge of the parts and stick on the end of the parts.
   The door is a 6 panel oak door on our kitchen pantry. All you need to make a 4 panel is to adjust the panel size and the top, center and bottom rail.
Rail & Stile & Panel
Rail & Stile Joined
Cross Section of Cope & Stick
Pantry 6 Panel Door
Bottom Where Rail and Stile Join

Lock Rail and Stile Joint
Top Rail & Mullion Joint

[trim4u2nv]

For sleds and jigs for door making here is another link

http://www.weaver-sales.com/weaver-woodworking-accessories-r.htm

[Patty]

Thanks guys, your help is appreciated. Nice door there shopteacher, your attention to detail is amazing.

Now that I've seen how a real craftsman makes a door,  I am very motivated. However I must admit, I had no idea  there was so much involved. I'm going to take your photos to my shopteacher and ask him to help me duplicate what you have done. Your door is really beautiful.

Thanks again

[serg]

Russian forum is not present such discussion. Excellent(different) discussion! Sergey

[shopteacher]

Patty,
 That door was built from a red oak that grew on the family homestead and that I play in and nailed steps on 45 years ago( that sure came back to haunt me as a sawyer).  The machines and cutters do most of the work. I'm mostly just there to feed the wood in.  Got those machines trained better than the kids.  Building the round wall was the tough part.

[Patty]

Are you ready for more questions?! I was planning on wiping on a clear finish. I have been using 20-30% diluted poly- mix solution (And no stain) for my floors, baseboards, and stair treads. Will this work ok on the door? And if so, how many coats would you suggest?

Also, what tool did you use to cut your cope & stick joints? I have a shaper available to me, would you suggest a different tool?

Are your panals the same thickness (1 3/8") as the rails and stiles? Do you have a favorite glue, or better yet, is there a glue that you say NOT to use?

I am picking my boards out this afternoon from our dry stacks, what thickness do you start out with? Is 6/4 thick enough to get the end result to be 1 3/8?

Ok, that is it for now, I think!    

[shopteacher]

One of the finishes I've come to like very much is made by General Finishes in Ohio.  They have two different types. Armor Finish is a very durable finish and the one I've used the most. There is also a Royal Finish that I believe is a satin finish.  With open grain wood I use a paste wood filler to fill the grain and the one I found to work best for me is by WoodKote. The door in the picture is red oak with a walnut wood filler to give an antique appearance.  If you want a natural look us oak filler. I generally use 2 or 3 coats depending on the look of the previous coat.  What you have been using should work fine and from your own experience you should be able to tell it wearability and if it's the look you desire.  I prefer a satin finish on most of my projects.  I have the students use between 15 and 20 coats of gloss poly on their table and when done it's deep enough to look as if you could reach into the finish.
  The cutter I use was purchased from Grizzly I have a link to their site http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2004/406.cfm? With it you will need a raised panel cutter.
   Panels start out at 1" planed and it depends on the style of the panel cutter.  I use titebond or Elmers Type ll.
  Depending on the roughness of the stock 6/4 should be plenty thick. You want a planed 1 3/8" for the rail and stiles.
  Well got to get back to sawing. I'm cutting cherry and just finished some 8/4 clear cherry.

[Patty]

Well class was fun last night, but here I am back with more questions!  

I got all my boards cut and approached the teacher about running them through the shaper for the cope and stick joints. Well he has the bits for the panals since they are 1" stock, but did not have the bits for the 1 3/8 " stock for the rails and stiles. He has a PowerMatic Shaper that looks older than me  , and says the shaft is 1/2" on it. Today, I  looked for the bits on the internet, holy cow!   They are running about $440 for the set, and I found them at Weavers. http://www.weaver-sales.com/catalog-cutters-house-door-delux.htm
Is this an ok price? Where do you order yours from?
Yesterday before class, Doug-in-Utah called and walked me through the processes of door making. What a nice suprise!! All you guy's helpful hints are very much appreciated.  

[Brian_Bailey]

Why cope & stick?
I'd use a router table to get your profile cut on the rails & stiles. Then cut traditional mortise & tenon joints and miter the profiled corners.
You'll have a stronger door for it. Can all be done with a router and sharp chisel  .

[Patty]

"Can all be done with a router and sharp chisel  . "   Easy for you to say!!!     You are a craftsman, I am a rookie,  I will take your suggestion to class next week tho....thanks.

I am still curious, where do you guys buy your shaper bits?  My teacher is offering to chip in, or allow me future use of the shop & tools if  I want to buy the bits. This offer is very tempting, as they have REALLY cool tools.  

[shopteacher]

Patty,
   Glad to here you got your wood ready and had a good time at class.  As far as that shaper being a little over 21, well, mine's quite old and still gets the job done.
  There are a number of way to make doors.  I was just showing my method.  Raised panels can be cut on a table saw with nothing more than the saw blade and a inclined jig.  The stile can be cut with a dado blade and formed with a router. The rail cut in the same manner. Brian has suggested another method.  So you see it's all in how you wish to proceed and the tooling available.  I put a link to Grizzly in my last reply and the cutter list for 189.00.  As far as strength, a properly made glue joint is stronger than the wood around it, so I have no fear of the door coming apart. Haven't had one fail yet.

[Patty]

Geeesh, I missed that link to Grizzely. $189 is far better than $440!, thanks shopteacher. Now, another question!!! Which bore do I get with the 1/2" shaft, the 3/4" or the 1 1/4", why in the heck isn't there a 1/2" !  

Yea, that old PowerMatic looks to be a fine piece of equipment, I can certainly relate to it.    

[Larry]

For long runs or common profiles I like Freud cutters.  Anything else is going to come from Gizzly.  The only difference I can tell is the Freud seems to go longer between sharpening.

Custom or one time profiles will be HSS in a moulding head.  Lot of places can make custom knives cheaper than you can buy a standard one.  I have made a few profiles myself when in a hurry.

Moulding head on the left out of a shop in KC.  I think the moulding head on the right was made by Delta.



Between myself and two other guys we share a lot of the unusual cutters so it really doesn’t get to expensive.

1-1/4" bore is for heavy duty industrial machines.  1/2" and 3/4" are most common in home shops.  I would get the 3/4" bore with a 1/2" bushing.  My Delta came with both 1/2 and 3/4" arbors but to much trouble to be changing them back and forth.

[Patty]

Thanks, guys, my new shaper bits are on order, and on their way!  

I can't wait until I get to use them next Monday night. This lovely "over 21" shaper looks like a router on steroids.   We'lll be making doors in style!  

[shopteacher]

Sounds like your well on your way to some nice doors Patty.  You may want to read up on using a shaper and take time to get familiar with the machine.  Use sample pieces to get the cutter adjusted so they fit perfect.  

[Patty]

Will do. I imagine there is a website out there somewhere that talks about "How to Use a Shaper". I'll find it and do my homework, teach.  

[trim4u2nv]

Try these guys they are specialists in lighter duty shaper and router bits. They are 3/4 bore with 1/2 bushings.  http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/shpdoor.html
I know years ago when first buying tooling we used SY brand (imported) I think these are now marketed by grizzly.  I had fairly good luck with them but they dont hold an edge as long as freud cutters.

[trim4u2nv]

Forgot here is an inexpensive sled if you need one.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/accessorysafe.html#coping_super_safety_anchor

[Patty]

Door update......
A couple of you have asked how the door project is coming along. Well last week I made enough mistakes to cover  the entire class I guess.  (imagine that!   )   I started out taking the boards down to size with the planer, but the planer insisted on running them through at an angle which caused these big grooves  :-/ that ran diagonally across my wood. So then I was off to correct the groove problem on the big wide belt sander; the sander removed the grooves pretty much, but added these stupid lumps in the wood  . So I took my lumpy grooved wood over to the shaper to cut the tongue and grooves for the cope & stick joints. My new shaper bits were covered with a waxy stuff, so first I disassembled the bits and removed all the wax, and then I couldn't get the bits back together correctly. I asked my teacher about this dilemma, and he worked on them awhile and suggested we try cutting with a piece of scrap wood first to check if we had them back together correctly. Well, we didn't.  
I had to take the bits home and look at a photo before I could assemble them correctly....with Norm's help. Saturday, Norm & I were stacking wood and keeping an eye out for some pieces for the next door, it was then that I realized that I had taken my boards down to  1 3/16th's inches thick instead of 1 3/8th's inches thick. I blame it on the stupid planer, but in reality I know it was the stupid planer operator that is to blame.  I was all bummed out about this yesterday, but Norm & Glenn (shopteacher) have encouraged me to keep on. I will just have a skinny door, I guess.  Maybe we'll hang it on one of the back closets or somewhere nobody can see.  
Hopefully next Monday will go more smoothly.

[Tom]

Yesterday morning, I watched Roy Underhill on the Wood Wrights Shop, make raised panels that had curved lines and all he used was a 1" hand chisel, a 1/4" hand chisel a little hand rabbet planer and a pocket knife.  No duct tape or anything?

[jgoodhart]

Building the door out of 1 3/16" material you will only be able the put a profile on one side. I would stick the starter wood in the customized fire wood pile and start over don't worry about we all have a customized fire wood pile some call theres kindlin .

[beenthere]

Patty
I would also encourage you to turn to a fresh 'set' of 'boards' and start the doors again. I think you will be happier in the long term.  Also, hopefully a new or sharp set of planer knives could be put in the planer, but if not, hand sand the marks (should be raised marks) or scrape them off with a scraper.
Don't feel alone making the 'mistakes' as we've all been there.    The hardest projects I make are the ones where (when) I have just enough material to make the project, and no extra to 'practice' with. Even then.........Oh DanG...

With some new material, you can talk about your success rather than have the sample of what didn't work.

[shopteacher]

I on the other hand would complete the door already started and learn from it.  As this is your first time trying this method and as much as I hate to say it You will probably incurr additional mistakes.  Follow through on the present door, make your mistakes here, learn from those mistakes and perfect your method.  I'm sure your future doors will show the fruits of your efforts. Hang in there kid.

[jgoodhart]

You could plane the wood down more and use the shops 1" cutter for practice, using the 1 3/16" material with your cutters will make the set up difficult. If you do take more wood take 1/2 again as much as you need so mistakes won't cause you to back up and reset the equipment. It would be nice if the school could do a little TLC on the planer.

[Norm]

Patty was pretty bummed Saturday while we were stickering some wood in the morton I pulled out some 5/4's wo commenting how nice it looked and what a nice door it would make if only thicker. She said it would only give her a 1/16th of an inch for finish...uhh honey you need 1 3/8th's. She had a bad look on her face and said she'd already taken her other wood down to 1 1/4. I tried to cheer her up explaining whenever I cut something too short I just glue it back on, didn't work. My suggestion was to go ahead and finish the door using the boards, they don't have time in the class to start anew and we'll use this one for a closet door. Only person that'll know is me, her and anyone we lock in the closet.

[GF]

I have to say we learn from our mistakes, so I am still constantly learning.  Hang in there and dont give up.

[jgoodhart]

I bee still learnin to :-/ don' t forget the pictures.

[Patty]

Well I had a good time at class last night. I only had to make one panic call home to Norm the whole evening!  
The shaper worked wonders, and my door is really coming together nicely. After cutting all the tongues and grooves, we dry fitted the door together and I  discovered  that my top style is 2 1/2 " too narrow. I still for the life of me can't figure out how I managed that, but overall I see it as a minor mistake.     I did have to mention to Norm when I got home last night, that we MAY have a challenge finding a door opening to fit my door. He mentioned that the door is supposed to fit the opening, not the other way around.      I figured this method was way too easy, ( you know how I love challenges), I really am not one to conform to practical methods. I call my method "creative carpentry".  I will dry fit the door tonite if it quits raining long enough to bring my boards in from my suv, and take photos.

[shopteacher]

He mentioned that the door is supposed to fit the opening, not the other way around.  

Man, that Norm's a stickler for detail. Waiting to see the pics.

[Patty]

Yea, shopteacher, and he married me anyway. Almost 30 years of wedded bliss.  

[shopteacher]

He musta liked your details.

[Patty]

Today I decided to lay out the door and dry fit everything to see if it fits. I don't have the raised panals ready yet, but this is what I have done so far.




Tomorrow night I hope to get the panals cut on the shaper.

[shopteacher]

That's a good looking door. When the panels are in place it should be a knockout.

[Minnesota_boy]

My uncle had a house once where one of the doors was a knockout.  Had a hole about a foot diameter where somebody put a foot through.  What a knockout.  

BTW Patty,
Good looking door you have going there.  

[jgoodhart]

Looking Good

[Patty]

Thanks guys, you are very encouraging.  
Last night we cut the raised panals, and now all that is left is to finish it and glue it up.
I realized alot of things when I was dry fitting this door last night.
1) Probably should have allowed for the panals to move when I was figuring out where to cut.  
2) Probably should have allowed for the overlap on the joints when I was cutting my boards.  
3) Probably should have measured a few more times before I cut my boards.  :-/
4) My shop equipment is better than what the school has...maybe I should make the rest of the doors using my own equipment. Hmmmm the grass isn't always greener on the other side.
5) Visions of shopteacher's cut hand kept going through my mind whenever I ran the table saw....thanks Glenn!  

Overall the door will be fine. Just need to make a few more final adjustments. I'll post a photo when I finish it.

[shopteacher]

You know what they say " A pictures worth a thousand words"
 If your panels are to tight you can usually trim a small amount from each edge to loosen them up.
 Learning isn't always enjoyable at times, but it sounds like you have gained a great deal of knowledge from this first try and now all you need is practice.  As your experience grows so does your ability to transfer your knowledge to other projects.  Problem solving and troubleshooting are a result of a good knowledge base and the practical experience. Being able to see the need for corrective action and knowing how to apply it is the key.  You appear to have already begun to trouble shoot your door and I'm sure your next attempt will show in the results.  Play safely!

[Patty]

All that is left is the finish. (and some sanding)  

[shopteacher]

Man she's a beauty. The door's pretty nice to. Your a lucky feller Norm.
 What kind of wood did you use Patty?

[Norm]

I wanted to add that the door is made from the wood of the log that is in Patty's profile picture. It was an old red oak that was well past it's prime that a wind storm blew the upper half off. I'm not allowed to cut any red oaks near our house but was given an exception for this one.  

[Fla._Deadheader]

  The pic was dark on my screen, so, I copy and pasted it, to lighten it.

 That is one fine looking door, Patty.  Nice job.  

 I was gonna wait until it was finished, but, I just had to comment early.  

[etat]

Been keeping up with but havn't commented on this whole thread.  Mostly just cause I felt in the end it'd come out all right and I don't know enough about making doors to give advice.

That's a really nice door.  Congragulations.  

I've got some poplar drying in the attic I'm gonna make some saloon doors out of one of these days. Maybe this winter.  I only hope they turn out so well.

[beenthere]

I agree with shopteacher.  Great looking door.  
Also, lightened up the picture some, and will post it (don't want to miss anything    )



Norm, can you buy Patty some shoes?

[Patty]

You can kinda see around the raised panals where I put the finish on, that is why they are kind of darker around the edges. Great advice from shopteacher, by the way.

You guys are too nice. Nobody is more suprised than I am that it turned out ok.  

[Norm]

You guys need to get new monitors...heck I got a tan from the one beenthere posted.

[jgoodhart]

Your door realy turned out nice how many more are you going to build.

[ohsoloco]

Sweet door, Patty    I'm hoping to make my own doors to replace all of the cheap hollow core doors in my house.  This thread has definitely got my mind workin'.  

[Patty]

I think I counted 10 more doors to go, for the house, j. I refuse to use those ugly plastic doors any more. Out of desparation we put one on our bedroom, and one on the bathroom, but they will be removed as soon as I get the new ones done.

At the office I need to build a replacement door for the front entryway and one to replace the hollow core door that one of our boys put a hole through. (Gosh, mom, I don't know how that hole got in the door!)


I told Norm I need a shaper for Christmas so I can finish the doors at home.    I figure it is a good investment.

[Captain]

Nice Job Patty!!

[size=10] [/size]

[Larry]

I like your door Patty.  Besides making doors your making memories.

While ya got the Christmas wish list out add on a stock feeder.  It will make that shaper much safer, more precise, and just a lot more fun to use.

[Paschale]

Looks GREAT!  

[Patty]

I want to bring this back up because Larry made a great suggestion that I looked into a little deeper. He suggested a stock feeder for the shaper I hope to get for Christmas. (hint  )  Fine Woodworking has an article in this months edition, that features the quick-stop table saw. What a GREAT idea. I can't find one single finger on either hand that I am willling to sacrifice for any amount of money. The US manufacturers had feeble excuses for not going to the quick stop design, such as it would cost too much to retool their manufacturing equipment. Personally I think they have it backwords. I can't think that I am the only person who puts great value on all 10 of my fingers, and I think most folks would pay for that added feature of a quick stop.
Now back to the stock feeder. Since all tools don't have the quick stop feature...none that we own....the power feeder is a great idea. For a few hundred bucks, I keep all my fingers, I am not so scared to try new projects, I'm more prone to use the tools more often, because the fear factor is eliminated.
Norm has shown me the power feeders on line, and I think the ones that can fit on all the tools...from the table saw to the shaper are a great idea.
Thanks for the suggestion, Larry.  

[ElectricAl]

Patty,




Great door !!!!!!  


I missed most of your post because of my day job. :-/

Had to swing by and check out what the neighbor is up to.

Been so foggy and rainy I can't quit see ya.


Your house is going to be incredible when it's done.  


Al  

[shopteacher]

I'd stay away from the one's known as baby feeders. We have a Sunhill at school and I've had to repair it several times (mostly from student abuse).  It's been down since last year with a broken plastic drive gear.  Delta has the same one, 1/8 hp sells for about 250.00. I have a 1/4 hp Grizzly at home that has done a good job with no trouble.  Of course how you treat your equipment is a determining factor and as you might guess, students aren't always the easiest users or is that abusers?

[Patty]

I've looked at the 1/4 hp grizzely...it isn't bad. What I want is one I can move around and attach to any equipment in the shop, especially the tablesaw and the shaper.
Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.

Hey Al,

Thanks for the kind words.      Don't ya' just hate it when the day job gets in the way of fun! I have 3 coats of poly on the door now, and will sand it lightly today, for the final coat in the morning. We got the jams cut yesterday, and they are waiting for me to sand them also today. I found the hard ware I need online, and will try to get it ordered tomorrow...man they sure don't give that stuff away. I want ballbearring ?? hinges, 4 of the 4" ones from Baldwin will hold the weight for sure. I used 4 of their 5" hinges on the front door, and they are holding up just fine.  Did Linda get the dining table finished yet? Thanksgiving is quickly approaching!

Did you happen to catch the football game yesterday! All of the Iowa teams won!      The win over Wisconsin was especially sweet, I have several relatives there that are fun to harrass.      This gave me another opportunity to do so.  

[Norm]

Here's the one I was showing Patty, has anybody ever used one before?

PowerFeeder

[ElectricAl]

Patty,

Linda was able to get three coats of finish on before a suprise birthday party happened. It received a little damage so after Thanksgiving it will get a few more coats.

A shaper with a power feed would be a good investment. Considering you have 18 more to do


Have fun

[sawduster12]

Patty,

How did the finished door turn out?

Did you have any problems with warping? I'm looking to do interior doors and have been told that solid stiles will warp over time. It was suggested that the stiles be made up from 3/16" faces with a 1" core. This helps prevent warping.

The door looks great in the picture.

Thanks

[Patty]

Sawduster12,


The door is holding up just fine. In fact it is beautiful, thanks to all the excellent advice I got from my FF buddies. 

Funny you should bring this up a year later. We tore down our shop shortly after building the door, and all the woodworking equipment and projects got put on hold. We put our day-job office in the old woodworking shop.

Just yesterday they finished pooring cement for our new  shop  . We can't wait to get the equipment set up again, and get back to all our projects that have been on hold.

Ahhhh yes, in no time we'll be watching tight ends, I mean football,  and making doors in our new shop! 

[sawduster12]

Thanks Patty,

Found your discussion from a search.

Good luck with your new shop

[Dan_Shade]

bringing one back from the dead

I need a few doors for my house, and since I have piles of lumber, I think i'll tackle making a door.

Patty, did you use mortise and tennons, or rely on the glue joint of the styles to hold the door together?

[Norm]

I'm not sure when Patty would see this Dan so I'll answer for her. We ended up using stacked biscuits instead of m&t or edge glued. We never had a joint fail.

On the other hand the finish did not hold up well even though this was a north facing door. Just this year we replaced it with a commercial one made by Pella. Much of our problem is the winters are so hard on the north facing side of our house. We had lots of problems with wind driven rain and snow.

[Dan_Shade]

you used it as an exterior door?

When you say "stacked biscuit", what do you mean?

[Norm]

Yes this was an exterior door. The door was built with 8/4 stock and we used 2 biscuits instead of 1 at each location with a 1/2" space between them.

[Dan_Shade]

ahhh, gotcha, exterior doors are tough, 70 degrees on one side, 0 on the other... It's a shame it didn't hold up   it looked awesome.

[logwalker]

Norm, Just how did it fail? Was it at the biscuits?

[Norm]

It never failed at the joints logwalker. The finish just did not hold up to the weather and started looking pretty bad.