Author Topic: How can you tell...? (Read 1524 times)

sigidi · « **on:** September 12, 2004, 04:11:47 am »

G'day to all...

maybe a silly question - but my old Pappy says 'no such thing as a silly question 'cept for one that aint asked!'

Can you tell a standing tree will be good for cut lumber? and if so what things should you look for in the tree?

I ask as I just cut up bluegum which seemed nice and straight standing, even branch development without one side too weighty as compared t'other, but about 5% or so where coming off the saw already bowed.

Or am I looking at operator/hardware issues? Running a Lucas without very much experience, can ya tell?

Kirk_Allen · « **Reply #1 on:** September 12, 2004, 09:05:32 am »

If as you cut the board is lifting upwards away from the log then you have stress in the log. This is a common challenge and I find that most trees taken from a hillside have more stress than those on flat land.

The key to good lumber from a stressed log is to cut the stress out.

I know how to do it with a bandmill but not sure of the best way with a swinger.

Any swingers out their with some input on cutting out the stress in log?

Sorry I couldnt help you more.

Kirk

ronwood · « **Reply #2 on:** September 12, 2004, 09:15:53 am »

Kirk,

I cut a board off one side of the cant and then rotate to the next side in hopes of minimizing the stress? Is that the procedure you use or there other ways of doing it.?

Thanks
Ron

DanG · « **Reply #3 on:** September 12, 2004, 10:47:03 am »

The MD dissects a log pretty much the same way as a swinger, just with a different mechanism. So far, the only way I know to cut stress out is to just keep on cutting. Frequently I'll get one or two boards that bow coming off the saw, then the next board will be ok. Usually by the time you realize that the log is stressed, you are already committed to the way you're gonna cut it.

Ianab · « **Reply #4 on:** September 12, 2004, 03:47:37 pm »

Hi Sigidi

Bluegum has a reputation for doing that

It can help to leave the right hand side slab attached to the log longer instead of cutting it off on each vertical layer. It wont stop the board you are cutting from bowing, but it can reduce the amount of bow in the actual log. Otherwise you can get 2/3 of the way thru the log and find the whole log is bowing on the bunks.
Other thing you can do is cut slightly oversize to give you more leeway to plane out variations in thickness later.

It's not usually an operator issue as the tension is already in the log. The timber is very good IF you can get it dried straight, but expect to loose a bit in the process. Get it stacked and drying and I think most of it will come out OK.

Ian

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #5 on:** September 12, 2004, 04:14:41 pm »

Some varieties of wood have the tendency to have stress in them. But to look at a tree and try to figure out whether it does or not can be a challenge.

Some things to look for is spiral grain. You can see that on the outside by looking at the bark. If the bark twists, so does the grain.

Leaning trees usually have stress. You can find them just about anywhere.

Larry · « **Reply #6 on:** September 12, 2004, 04:50:09 pm »

I was approached a few months ago to log, saw, dry, and turn this little sucker into a dining room table. I turned the offer down as I figured it was going to be a nightmare with the spiral grain. Might still do some of it and turn the dry wood over to an artist to make a jewelry box or something. It’s one of those sentimental type of things.

beenthere · « **Reply #7 on:** September 12, 2004, 05:19:26 pm »

Is that 'little sucker' a white oak?
I think your decision was right. Save you a potential headache.

Ianab · « **Reply #8 on:** September 12, 2004, 05:29:21 pm »

Haha..Might make a nice handrail for a spiral staircase there.

Larry · « **Reply #9 on:** September 12, 2004, 05:38:48 pm »

Beenthere it’s a white oak alright. Not for sure if it is a chestnut or chinkapin. Both species disappeared a long time ago around here. This is a picture of the leaves.

Kirk_Allen · « **Reply #10 on:** September 12, 2004, 06:15:34 pm »

Ronwood:
If I notice that after the first board there is lots of stress I will sometimes come down to just above the heart and make my next cut. This relieves quite a bit. This leaves you with a big cant that is bowed. I take the bowed cant and flip it 180 and take a shallow cut to level one side. Then flip it 180 again and make another shallow leveling cut.

Once both sides of the cant are flat I then take the boards from it. Their might be some minor stress in those but no where near as bad as prior to doing this. Next I do the same thing to the remaining lower portion of the log.

I too have cut boards from each side but I find that overall I get better boards by doing it as described. Maybe not as many boards because of the shallow leveling cuts but no where near the stress problem

DansSawmill · « **Reply #11 on:** September 13, 2004, 07:22:51 am »

according to my leaf book, its a chestnut oak, or maybe swamp chestnut oak.
the chinkapin has more rounded leaves
dan

UrbanLogger · « **Reply #12 on:** September 13, 2004, 08:13:22 am »

I'm with Dan--Swamp Chestnut.

MrMoo · « **Reply #13 on:** September 13, 2004, 08:21:10 am »

Hey Dan,
what's the title on your leaf book>
Mike

DansSawmill · « **Reply #14 on:** September 13, 2004, 09:09:28 am »

book title is -> the audubon society field guide to north american trees eastern region
isbn # 0-394-50760-6
handy to have around... lots o pics
dan

MrMoo · « **Reply #15 on:** September 13, 2004, 12:15:17 pm »

Thanks Dan

Larry · « **Reply #16 on:** September 13, 2004, 03:00:32 pm »

I think you guys are right on swamp chestnut. From my memory the leaves don't look quite right for a chinkapin but they are pretty close to the swamp chestnut in my tree book.

Arthur · « **Reply #17 on:** September 14, 2004, 03:41:24 am »

with bluegum and related family most of the tension can be releived by biliting the log.

cut virtical both sides first then the top. rotate the log 180 and take the top off again.

then do all your virtical cuts across the log before doing your horizontal.

If you can come down to Bellingen at some time we do three day courses on log id and what to leave standing and why. I can also give you a list of courses you can get from the local Forestry dept.

sigidi · « **Reply #18 on:** September 14, 2004, 06:08:36 am »

Thanks to all,
and what a great pic to show that twisted bark, so stay away from trees on slopes, growing at an angle, twisted bark... geese that's why loggers leave some hey?

Arthur,

send the info my way buddy, I'd love to know before I have to face hold music - spent hours on the phone to the tax dept today and can still hear the music ten hours later, dum, dum danun....

Anything you have for the DPI even links etc would be great.

Just a quick Q do we have to hold certification for chainsaws in OZ or is it something soon to be brought in? Just that I heard something about it lately and want to make sure.

TIA

sawmillsi · « **Reply #19 on:** September 14, 2004, 03:15:26 pm »

Hi Arthur,

Could you send me some info about your courses (I might have some people interested) and on the forestry courses.

Either to my email simon_ceglinski@mullum.com.au
or to

Simon Ceglinski
Mullumbimby Woodworks
PO Box 596
Mullumbimby
NSW 2482

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Author Topic: How can you tell...? (Read 1524 times)

Kirk_Allen

Kirk_Allen