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Author Topic: Sodium Borate Treatment  (Read 876 times)

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Offline loraxforestcare

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Sodium Borate Treatment
« on: August 02, 2004, 08:13:51 am »
Howdy:

Does anyone have any experience using Sodium Borate as a preservative.  I have the OK from my county building department to do an experimental batch using dip diffusion methods and I wanted to see if anyone has experince doing it...

Thanks

Eric Malone
Lorax Forest Care

Offline beenthere

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Re: Sodium Borate Treatment
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2004, 09:21:51 am »
Can you tell us more?  

What species?
What use or application?

I've heard borax is good, but it leaches out of the wood depending on where it is used. Some find it a good, safe treatment against decay, others think it is worthless (maybe depending on how much they like the alternative treatments).

Is there an intended connection between 'lorax' and 'borax', and is this a business venture? Just curious, as there are several around the country doing preservative research that you may or may not be familiar with.
south central Wisconsin
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Offline loraxforestcare

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Re: Sodium Borate Treatment
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2004, 09:37:03 am »
Hi:

We have a Draft Horse Logging and Sawmilling business here in SW Colorado.  We are primarily working with Ponderosa Pine. We provide lumber for all types of building applications; timberframe homes, siding, framing, trim etc. We have requests for treated 2x material for bottom plates, and want to explore ways to treat it ourselves in a non toxic environmentally appropriate manner, and have had sodium borate dip diffusion suggested.

Also, no connection between Lorax and Borax...

Thanks for the reply.

Eric

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Sodium Borate Treatment
« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2004, 07:03:59 pm »
Here's a couple of links that might help you get started:

http://www.borax.com/borates2g.html   Follow the links and get some interesting reading.

Here's one for making your own home brew:  http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/homemade.html

I always thought that the borates were too water soluable to be used for exterior applications.   I was looking at it for log cabin logs.  However, it should work fine for sill plates, since there is no direct exposure to the elements.
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Offline sawmillsi

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Re: Sodium Borate Treatment
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2004, 01:42:47 am »
Hi Ron and Eric,

Interesting post!

In Australia the CSIRO's (the national science mob) Timber Research Centre put out an interesting paper on dip-difusing Borax. Can't remember details of paper (title, date published etc...), but it was about using the process of osmosis (the movement of salts through a semi-permiable membrain etc...) using Borax  and the processes to use.

This included having a lined concrete trough (big enough to hold your pack of timber) with a pick-up at one end going to a pump to a coil (that is over a fire or other heating type element) then a return at the other end of the trough.

The thought being that osmosis occurs more rapidly at warmer temperatures (approx 40 degrees centigrade - no idea in your speak).

It suggets that most timber would be submerged for a maximum time of approx 15min. which would give good surface penitration.

The timber should be green!

This treatment is only good for indoor use and if the timber is planed, then the treatment is removed.

Around Australia, all of our power poles are hardwood (CCA pressure impregnated), but the power companies use sticks of Borax/fluride (mixed) to prevent rot and insect attack. Holes are drilled around the base of the pole just above ground level (the holes go well beolw ground level), the 'no-rot' sticks (as they are sold as in Aust.) are then put into the holes and a cap screwed into the hole to prevent water getting in.

They work when the moisture goes above 20% - then the Borax/fluride mix diffuses through the timber. It is said to increase the life of a power pole by a huge amount (maybe 30%).

Sorry for the long post.

We use a mix of Borax and a chemical called Permithrin (could also use Dextmithrin)  - the spellings probably out but thats how it is. The Permithrin is a real strong residual insectiside.

We just spray the mix on and thats it. Its only to stop little critters (termites and mould) from getting into our timber while drying.

I've got some samples of the no-rot sticks (these ones are for landscaping use - in railway ties (8"x4"), not for poles as they are small ones - about 3/8" diameter and 2½" long) if you want to look at them.

Email me your details to:

simon_ceglinski@mullum.com.au

I don't have lots of samples so if everyone wants some - tough luck!

Simon

PS. I don't sell them, just use them in jobs we do.

 


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