Author Topic: Tips on quartering a big tree (Read 2300 times)

slowzuki · « **on:** July 21, 2004, 08:45:58 am »

My mill isn't yet finished being built but I have access to a 54" diameter sugar maple trunk. It was cut a week ago and they stopped where they ran out of bar, leaving about 16 ft of it.

The bottom 4 feet likely has taps burried inside.

I'm thinking of quartering the log with a chainsaw. I think this would be an all day project even with the tractor to help moving pieces.

A neighbour may help out, he has a big husqy with a 40" bar for making discs for woodworking, he wants 3 thin slices. I'm hoping he would rip for us!

No we don't have any powder available!

Although that would be fun.

Do you need to rip the whole thing or can you rip from the top then use wedges to split the other half?

Thanks

EDIT So far the mill is looking like it will take a trimmed 42" log and about a 30" cant.
EDIT2 No I don't know any swing millers.

Furby · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2004, 05:06:56 pm »

You can rip from one side and split the rest, but if you want a good cut to work with, rip it from both sides.
Spend the $$$ on a good ripping chain, it takes a lot out of the saw and yourself with a crosscut chain. It really don't take that long with a bigger saw and a good chain. The taps might slow ya down though.

Grawulf · « **Reply #2 on:** July 21, 2004, 07:47:37 pm »

Slowzuki,

In the sugaring industry the "taps" are called spiles and they generally remove them every year and plug the hole with a dowel so you may be OK. If whoever cut the tree cut it close to the ground, and you can see where the larger roots were, the spiles should be 2 - 3' directly above those. Doubt if you would be able to see any metal staining because most of the older spiles were galvanized.

rebocardo · « **Reply #3 on:** July 21, 2004, 10:41:02 pm »

How safe is it freehanding with a ripping chain?

I have been tempted to do it once or twice, but, I am seriously afraid of the kickback potential.

UrbanLogger · « **Reply #4 on:** July 22, 2004, 06:56:08 am »

rebocardo,

I do it all the time. When we get oaks that are shorter than 9', I'll just rip each end of the log vertically. The 48" bar will leave just a little holdingit together in the middle to be nibbled out from above. It's not as pretty as ripping it with a Beam Machine but goes A LOT quicker.

slowzuki · « **Reply #5 on:** July 22, 2004, 12:07:38 pm »

Could I sharpen a regular chain to 0 degrees? I don't have a ripping chain available.
Ken

Quote

You can rip from one side and split the rest, but if you want a good cut to work with, rip it from both sides.
Spend the $$$ on a good ripping chain, it takes a lot out of the saw and yourself with a crosscut chain. It really don't take that long with a bigger saw and a good chain. The taps might slow ya down though.

leweee · « **Reply #6 on:** July 22, 2004, 07:15:26 pm »

Yes you can. Keep the hook angle about 55 degrees. I use square edge chisel chain sharpened this way. Works for me.

Furby · « **Reply #7 on:** July 22, 2004, 07:50:00 pm »

That's what I was going to do, but I really don't have the time to do one for a 72" bar, so I gotta order one.

smwwoody · « **Reply #8 on:** July 24, 2004, 03:29:30 pm »

The best way I have found to quarter a large log is to cut it into 4 equal pieces

Jeff · « **Reply #9 on:** July 24, 2004, 06:43:09 pm »

Quote

Slowzuki,

In the sugaring industry the "taps" are called spiles and they generally remove them every year...

I wish somebody would tell somebody that up here. I have hit a lot of them over the years.

Furby · « **Reply #10 on:** July 26, 2004, 02:02:04 pm »

Sometimes they forget a few, huh

Oregon_Sawyer · « **Reply #11 on:** July 31, 2004, 12:47:36 am »

Check out the post that I just brought back up.

A Real Man's Chainsaw!

Loren

slowzuki · « **Reply #12 on:** November 22, 2004, 07:58:37 am »

Well I finally got around to fighting the big old tree...

AND THE TREE WON

It had been chunked at the 4 ft mark so I figured I'd try ripping that first. Ripped one side ok, ripped other side, about 6" left in the middle.

Drove 7 wedges in one side, lots of cracking, no action, and all my wedges are now stuck in tree! Rip accross the butt, still nothing. So I rip down to a quarter and remove the 50 lb chunk and my wedges. Bury the bar to cut the 6" that had been left in the middle. Spend 30min trying to break the chunk off with the tractor with no luck!

Tank and a half of gas, 2 hours friggin around and I was beat!

VA-Sawyer · « **Reply #13 on:** November 22, 2004, 08:13:24 am »

OK, slowzuki,
Now that we have gotten the halftime report.... when you gonna finish the game ?

It's ok to let a log stump you for a while....but in the end, you have to come out on top.

Sometimes you need a new plan or even a new tool, but don't walk off the field with time on the clock.

Now get back out there and win one for the Ripper !

Kevin · « **Reply #14 on:** November 22, 2004, 03:36:59 pm »

You can cut a block out and use a jack.

Danny_S · « **Reply #15 on:** November 22, 2004, 04:46:50 pm »

Wish I still had the 3120...

rebocardo · « **Reply #16 on:** November 22, 2004, 05:55:14 pm »

Slowzuki,

Sounds like the first 4x cuts I did

I did follow that link and use ripping chain for this tree I learned on.

Cross cut safety chain.

This is the technique I now use, I cut the tree in the middle by standing on one end and ripping it top to bottom in as far as my saw can go (28 inches). I hold the saw up at an angle so the top of the bar nose is always clear. This will throw a lot of curls, make sure your saw does not jam up.

Once the saw is close to the ground I kind of plunge cut it while holding the saw tight so I have a clear cut top to bottom. I would not recommend this as it is sort of dangerous and I have had a few minor kickbacks.

Now ripping chain

Then get at the top of the log standing to the left of the kerf, and use this kerf as a guide to rip from one end to the other in a straight line. My biggest problem. Which is why I use that first cut.

What I have found is going at an angle not all the way down and regoing over it again so the saw is almost vertical works best for me when using my 28" saw on a 48 inch log.

Once done you should be able to see from one end of the log to the other through the kerf.

Now roll the log so the vertical cut is now horz. and then quarter it above using the same tech. If done correctly you should be able to move it off the log (making sure the log is chocked so it does not roll) with a long pry bar.

If not, roll the log slightly so gravity will do most of the work, especially if you have to wedge it free.

Instead of getting a perfect quarter, cut two inches into the intersection and make sure your saw is cutting well past the first kerf.

I have done it enough times now (maybe 12) so I can usually do a "fair" cut down the middle without a lot of wood tearing and being able to easily move it with a pry bar without anything hanging up.

Doing a perfect 90 degree, without going sideways and not meeting in the middle of the log, is learning experience. I had almost the whole tree done before I learned how to cut/rip straight so the two kerfs meet.

ScottAR · « **Reply #17 on:** November 22, 2004, 08:14:33 pm »

Take that saw and make you some wedges out of scrap or firewood or somthing... Take a big sledge and pound em in...

I like the jack Idea as well....

Good luck!!

Arthur · « **Reply #18 on:** November 23, 2004, 12:48:28 am »

You need to get yourself a swinger.

even a baby one would have finished milling the log in the time that you spent playing with the chainsaw.

worth the money just for these occassions.

slowzuki · « **Reply #19 on:** August 11, 2005, 10:51:09 am »

As a follow:

Well I was really beat badly, an escavator with thumb burried the tree while I was at work one day... The owners didn't realize I was regrouping my attack! I was worried about dragging a 4 ton log across their lawn but they didn't tell me it was gonna be dug up anyways!

News:

Author Topic: Tips on quartering a big tree (Read 2300 times)