Author Topic: At it again, when will I learn. (Read 5874 times)

Jeff · « **on:** May 16, 2004, 03:58:28 pm »

Well, when ya'll come for the pig roast I hope I ain't got just half a house. I have two possibly 3 new web projects going and no started tearing apart the house again. We GOTTA put a roof on this year. Wont make it through another winter. The siding is T1-11 and is getting full of woodpecker holes and is in need of help. So, we are doing what we have always wanted to do. Putting on Cedar log siding along with the new roof. We don't have overhangs on the gable ends and I figure thats a must for the look we want and to help keep some of the rain off the siding. Its going to be a slow process cause its basically Tammy and I doing it. Today we started carefully removing sections of the old aluminum fascia and drip edge and started building the over hangs. Tkes some time easing up those old shingles and getting the nails out. Then we have to cut back the siding and stuff so we can get to the end truss to attach our ladders. When we come to shingle day for this part of the house, we will sheet the over hangs after we tear off the old shingles as I am cutting back the old OSB to tie in the new overhang. Been told to just sheet it but I don't want it drooping. I lagged it on with screws.

Old buddy came through with some greatly appreciated roof help. Its going to take Tammy and I some time so renting a nailer was going to be expensive so ck has got one in the mail to me as a loaner. Thankin ya Dr. Roof!

Here is picture number one of out little project, when we are done we may have the only log/earth berm home in existance.

EZ · « **Reply #1 on:** May 16, 2004, 04:27:04 pm »

Aintcha got any of them there windows in ur house.

EZ

etat · « **Reply #2 on:** May 16, 2004, 04:32:29 pm »

It doesn't matter, whatever kind a house ya got, it's better than a house trailer. Promise ya. The gun I'm sending ya is kinda old and wore looking but it still shoots very good. There's a piece just above the trigger that pops out a place sometimes, you just take yer thumb and push it back in place and it'll go right back to shooting. It doesn't happen that often and I doubt it'll slow ya down much. We often use guns such a these for emergencys when something tears up on one of our newer ones. As I said, we wear out a LOT of guns!!!

Now MR. JEFF

. Just don't ya worry about that house and none a us will. We'll be more worried about eating hog, tellin tall tails, gettin to know each other more personally, and important stuff such as that!!!!!!

Jeff · « **Reply #3 on:** May 16, 2004, 05:30:37 pm »

Quote

Aintcha got any of them there windows in ur house.
EZ

Not in that end.

That used to be garage. There are windows in da front though. Hers da window side.

Jeff · « **Reply #4 on:** May 16, 2004, 05:33:15 pm »

ck, see where that roof comes into the other roof? When I build my over hang I am not sure what to do. Its going to create a dead flat spot if I bring it clear to the other roof. It there any reason I can't just stop the overhang a foot up from the other roof? Will it look goofy? Seems if I bring it clear down I am asking for trouble as snow can just sit there and find its way in if it starts melting.

etat · « **Reply #5 on:** May 16, 2004, 06:15:52 pm »

Sure, I run into stuff like that all the time, you'd be suprised what some a these folks design and build or add on to and do. I always tell em, if you can build it, I can roof it!!!

That said, if you have lots a snow or ice I'd definately spring for ice and water shield underlayment near the lower parts and completely under the shingles on the low slopes area. It's not required around here, but I've still got to where I use it under low slopes, and under the shingles around chimneys.

Also, be sure to use metal flashing anywhere a roof meets a wall. Preferable step flashing anywhere there's a side wall, 'I don't see one in your pictures, and flashing cut in strips and bent anywhere a roof bumbs into a wall that is flat. I always make sure to run one shingle under the flashing, and then another to cover the top of the flashing. Hope I'm makin sense here. Where a lower roof meets a wall I always cut flashing in 6 or 8 or 10 foor strips that I can handle and lap all joints at least a foot on long sections.

If you do decide to run the two roofs together never, never put a nail in a shingle right where the roof breaks, it'll leak every time sooner or later . Always nail a shingle high rather than nailing in a transistion. Also it's a good idea to run a couple of short courses where the roof breaks for extra protection, if you do decide to make the roofs meet.

IF you don't use ice and water shield on low slopes always apply TWO layers of tarpaper underneath instead of one. All shingle manufacturers recommend this.

Have you decided what kind of shingles you will be using?

Also, from the pictures that looks like a lot more than 22 squares.

Also, I forgot, a box of coil nails will usually apply just over 20 squares.

Furby · « **Reply #6 on:** May 16, 2004, 06:25:40 pm »

Jeff,
If you do butt the overhangs together, build a little bit of pitch one way or the other, or both. Then as CK said, use the ice barrier!

etat · « **Reply #7 on:** May 16, 2004, 06:33:01 pm »

Something else to think about, I can't tell much about the lower part BUT, when you order your shingles they'll bring them out on a truck. If possible gather you up some help, and pay the driver to back up to that porch and unload the shingles on the house top. Would save a bunch of toting them up a ladder. Of course this won't be needed if you can borrow a forklive or tractor with front end loader. You would have to tote the shingles up to the ridge to stack them, all that weight would probably bust the porch in!!! We always send them up with a ladervator, unless we're there when they bring them out and then we usually just go ahead and put them on the roof. Stack em all across the ridge and then work around em till we get enough of them used up to finish the top. If you do do this you could tear a section off across the top and go ahead and apply felt and stack the new shingles on this.

Tear off shovels. See if anybody around you sells a tool called a shinglelo. You'll recognize it because it has replaceable teeth, and looks kinda like a short funny good for nuthing shovel. If you do find a shinglelo, you have to tear off with it SITTING DOWN, or it'll break your back. You can start at the top and it'll peel off shingles, nails, and tarpaper clear down to the wood, easy as pie. MUCH MUCH better and more efficient than the old shingle fork, or flat bottomed shovel, Of even the flatbottom shovels they sell now with teeth ground in. MUCH!!!!! I can take three people with this tool and tear off 20 square on most roofs in a couple of hours!!!! I really like the part about sitting down using it and working your way down.

Jeff · « **Reply #8 on:** May 16, 2004, 06:38:28 pm »

I am really surprised I have never had a leak on this roof. As I was working I found that there is NO felt under these shingles. They are layed right over the 1/2 inch OSB. There is metal flashing where that roof line meets that wall. It goes up behind the siding. I also found that the drip edge was installed from the top down so the joints over lapped the wrong way. I never had ice barrier before, only a starter strip of upside sown shingles. We have eves trough the full length of the house so the chance was always there for an ice *DanG but we never had any trouble. Might be because of all the insulation. The snow never melts off the roof while its below freezing.

ADfields · « **Reply #9 on:** May 17, 2004, 02:31:33 pm »

Jeff if it was me I would put on the overhangs on both gables like you want then run a new ridge from the shorter gable level to the taller one. In other words a little dog house roof to fill the valley made by the overhangs so snow and ice cant pool there. The other choice is to make a shed roof from the high ridge to the low ridge as wide as both overhangs. The shed dormer look from the front of the house may even look good with the log siding. I don't think I would just flash that valley in snow country, you could get a block of ice of some real tonnage in that 4 foot valley. It's odd the way they did that to you!

Have fun!!

Andy

Jeff · « **Reply #10 on:** May 17, 2004, 03:01:25 pm »

Andy, I am being dense. I cant get a picture in my mind. My not being a builder dont help me any. :-/ All I know is I am sure you are seeing the problem I am seeing. can you draw sumpthin? Ya gotta remember I am on a tight budget. I have barely scraped together the money for the roof materials and the siding is a pay as I go.

AtLast · « **Reply #11 on:** May 17, 2004, 03:56:15 pm »

Im think the piggy roast is-a-gunna turn into a fixin up Jeffs house thingy...the piggy is just-a-gunna be the gratuity from Jeff for all da helpin hands dats a gunna be-a-workin on finishin up da roof and da siding and da winders and da udder stuff ...buts dats ok wit me ...soes yous guys be sure ta bring yer hammers and da such soes we can all pitch in and get dat all dune ....best motivation will be smellin dat piggy-a-cookin whilest we are allsa workin

Stump Jumper · « **Reply #12 on:** May 17, 2004, 04:34:10 pm »

ok i can peel shingles off with skidsteer you just need a bigger berm for ramp

i can do that too

Haytrader · « **Reply #13 on:** May 17, 2004, 07:38:21 pm »

ck,

Ever use potato forks?
Bought many of em.
Got where all I could find had plastic D handles...not good.

Furby · « **Reply #14 on:** May 17, 2004, 07:38:59 pm »

Atlast,
I was kind of thinking the same thing about the piggy roast, but I think they want the house done by then.

ADfields,
That's a really good point abot the weight and a really easy and good idea with the shed roof. I think that's how they do it around here. Only problem will be the pitch, it would take a little measuring.

Jeff,
Give me a day or two and I'll see if I can find a pic of what AD is talking about.

etat · « **Reply #15 on:** May 17, 2004, 08:04:51 pm »

Haytrader, still got a couple of potato forks. Use em very rarely these days. Up until a few years ago were our main tool for tearoff's. All that jabbing em got to be really hard on my elbow, and then you'd have to go back and clean up and pull nails. The guy that invented the tool that you sit down with and strip shingles and nails and all deserves to be rich. I'd absolutely HATE to have to go back to the old ways.

Jeff · « **Reply #16 on:** May 17, 2004, 08:07:10 pm »

Ck will it get staples? Looks like my shingles, other then then the outside edges were all stapled

ADfields · « **Reply #17 on:** May 17, 2004, 08:18:36 pm »

Well let's see.

In the first one you put a 2x6 ridge beam level from the peak of the low side over to the tall side after you get your overhang built. Next place cleats on both roofs so they meet in the valley right at the end of the valley, you now have the blue triangle outlined. Then frame it out with 2x4's on 24" centers and cut a triangle of OSB to sheath it over. Repeat on the other side and roof it off like CK described. This gives you a little roof that will kick the snow away from that valley to both sides. The valley will be a void with nothing in it and no need to vent it so no way critters can get in to nest. Should take nothing but some lumber, nails, a sheet of OSB and the roofing you doing any way.

From the angle of the pic you posted it will look like a little dog house roof up there.

The other way is more involved but still not big bucks for a guy that can get lumber cheep. For this you would build a wall in the blue place on the drawing on the right before you make the overhang on the taller roof. The wall would go from ridge to ridge and you could side it so it looks like it's always been there from the street. Then build a roof platform on top of the wall from peak to peak around 4 foot wide, what ever it is from rake to rake.

(This one is hard to describe well

) In other words build a roof from ridge to ridge with a wall under it to hold it up so that when it's done it looks like it's your overhang and has always been there form the front. This way would take a couple hundred bucks or so to do up.

Let me know if you understand this or not. If you don't I will make a craft paper model and take pix for ya, it's hard to splain it or even draw.

Both ways have their points. I would do the dog house if it was me, as I'm cheep and I think it would look fine.

Andy

etat · « **Reply #18 on:** May 17, 2004, 08:42:15 pm »

Lots more designs out there. Some with rollers, some with long handles, Tried em most all, and this is the best of the best. You get to sit down and use your body weight, instead of your elbows and back. I was wrong about the name, (never looked at it real close before) Super Shingle Go. AJC tools and equiptment. Can't read the number, wore off. Replaceable backplate, replaceable heardened teeth, and they carry replacement fiberglass handles. I get em at ABC Roofing Supply, sometimes they try to trick me and sell me something else. New and improved something. HOG WASH, These are the best!!! And, YOU GET TO SIT DOWN WHILE TEARING OFF.

Just takes all the fun out of it!!!!

etat · « **Reply #19 on:** May 17, 2004, 08:46:39 pm »

Slide it under the shingles, push down on the handle which will kick the teeth up pulling the nails and losening the shingles, and push the debri down out of the way as you go. Don't let it build up on you, push debri out of the way before you slide under the next set of shingles so you won't be fighting the weight of the old shingles as you tear off.

Also these shovels are heavy, the weight of them will work for you instead of against you.

They'll break yer back if you try to do it standing up much, the angles are for sitting down.

News:

Author Topic: At it again, when will I learn. (Read 5874 times)