026 Pro Cutting Out w Brake

[oldsaw-addict]

I never have had a saw that has problems running with the chainbrake on, at idle that is. I'm just getting into the habit of setting the brake when I set the saw down so I'm on the right foot now, getting safer now.

[jokers]

Logbutcher,

I have to agree with Incognitive(just don`t tell him) that the "tech" you saw, made up that whole bit about not being broken in and the 026 not being able to idle because of high compression. I can`t even begine to imagine the hours that some of my 026`s have idled, even with the brake on. I even observed my dad with a brand new 260Pro idle through about a tank of gas when he was chipping and then got sidetracked and left the saw running on the ground. What your tech said, just ain`t so!

I`d like to have your saw here to find out what`s really wrong with it.

If someone can tell me how to do it, I will post an 026 workshop manual pdf. here to help you out. You`re obviously on your own when it comes to local service.

Russ

[Rocky_J]

.... What your tech said, just ain`t so!
....
If someone can tell me how to do it, I will post an 026 workshop manual pdf. here to help you out. You`re obviously on your own when it comes to local service.

This last sentence is exactly why I finally decided to try a Husky after buying Stihls all my life. I have absolutely no local Husky dealers, but it isn't like the local Stihl dealers are much better. I haven't paid a shop to fix a saw for me in 8 years and don't plan on doing so anytime in the future. Stihl parts are expensive locally, Husky parts are cheap online but I have to pay shipping. Price is a wash but with Husky I get the stuff delivered to my door.

Almost all the Stihl techs I've met will make up stuff in order to sound like they know what they are talking about. The more I learned about saws, the more I realized how little most shop mechanics know. There are a few good ones but most are as incompetent as most 'tree services'.

[logbutcher]

We're on the same page: idling saws w or wo brake are normal.
Generous    of Russ to offer the workshop manual !!. Is there a site for them ? Downloading in .pdf is long, but doable w your scanner. Maybe 1/2 six pack.
Must be an easier way.
Still can't figure out exactly what and where the pulse hose is, the crankcase seals (to test leakage w WD-40). Anyone have schematic diagrams  to put in a post ?
Ah, the ignorance of it all     .
What a forum............!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Ianab]

Hi Log

I'm not a chainsaw expert.. but simple explanations I can do
On one side of your saw you have the recoil starter cord, on the other you have the clutch and chain sprocket. These are on each end of the crankshaft. On each end of the crankshaft inside these bits are the bearings and seals. If these seals are worn out then air can leak into the crankcase, bypassing the carby and totally mucking up the idle settings. I guess that spraying some wd40 on the seals would stop them leaking air temporarily and be usefull for faultfinding. I'm sure the others will pull me up if this is wrong  

Ian

[Minnesota_boy]

Ian,
The WD-40 is a nice light flamablle oil that can be sucked in past leaking seals.  This additional flamable liquid will cause the saw engine to speed up if the seal is leaking.

Logbutcher,
On many saw engines, the impulse line is built into the carburetor mount.  There is no impulse line to find.

[Ianab]

Thanks Minnesota

Either way, spraying wd40 on the seals will have no effect if they are good. If you spray and something changes.. then the seals are leaking.

A usefull test

Ian

[incognitive]

Here's a small part of page 11 from the 026 parts PDF.  Note item 23.


The hose attaches to the carburetor mount and to a nipple near the cylinder base.  It will be to the clutch side and a little below the intake boot.  The tests I was describing earlier were to determine if the stumble upon brake disengagement would disappear if there were no relative movement between the engine and handles.  I was thinking that by grabbing the brake release, the engine was moving back to the handle far enough to flex the impulse hose, thus opening a crack (or maybe one in the intake boot ["manifold" in the documentation]).  I don't think crank seals would affect what you're describing if it only happens when changing the brake status.

So logbutcher, did you buy a rebuilt saw from this guy or what?  If so, it's possible the top end's still tight and needs broke-in while the bottom end's (too?) loose, and/or rubber parts need replacement.  Let us know.

[jokers]

The impulse hose actually attaches to a nipple on the carb in the case of the 026.

Nice pic G but why so stingy? !

Russ

[incognitive]

Tied hands, my friend.

[logbutcher]

WHAT A CREW[/b] !!!!!!!

[logbutcher]

FLASH:
Update on the 026 Pro saga.
With all the super tech advice, no leak was found by me. Hose(s) look fine, unable to really check the AV mounts, WD-40 0n the seals did nothing ( no flame thrower    .
Thx for the assist: Incog, Mr. Marmite NZ, the Rocky and Joker twins, oldsaw, ianab, et al. .
The selling Stihl dealer has gone to another shop--Husky ! He still does not want to repair the saw he sold me since he feels that the saw should not be idled for any amount of time or certainly not idled w the brake on. It's gone thru about 12 tankfuls in a month or so. He said that the brake is only for "emergencies". We don't agree.  
Honest guy however, he's going to take the saw back for what I paid. Fair, ethical....the Maine way. No fights here.
I've since cut for a couple of hours with the 346XP with a logger neighbor. You 346 fanatics are correct: NICE TOOL !!   . ( And, you are fanatics )
I'm getting that tool.