Tools for Timber Framing List

[Dave Shepard]

"One of my teachers told us he'd walk 50 miles in a snow storm up hill both ways bare foot if he forgot his "Big Al" and had to go home to get it...... "

His name wasn't Dave C. was it?  I have heard that one before.

This is a great thread Jim, thanks.



Dave, aka "DMS"

[Jim_Rogers]

Welcome, Dave Shepard, and yes it was Dave Carlon........

[Quartlow]

Man I could spend a summer with you Jim. Unlucky for me I'm one of those poor saps that has to learn by doing not by reading.

[slidecreekdan]

Wow!!! Thanks so much for all the information.  You took a lot of time to help a lot of people such as me.
                   Thank You

[shinnlinger]

Hi,






 I rigged this up in about 20 minutes (after thinking about it for months) that has made my timber framing a bit easier.  I call it the flying H.  It consists of two peices of modified angle iron which I bolted to the bar of one of my chain saws to make a table to hold the saw at a right angle to the beam being cut.  It was inspired by the Prazi Beam cutter, but I didn't feel like paying the bucks for one of those underpowered deals when I already own a few chain saws and bars that cut alot faster.  I mounted the table about 10 inches back which can still cut my beams, but far enough forward to still tighten the chain.

With my chaps On I will even flip it verticle and run it like a prazi.  Sure beats running a circular saw around 4X and using a handsaw!

A word of caution however, being a chain saw, its cuts are not as consistent as you might like.  It is great for purlins or joists that sit in pockets where the ends dont show if you have any tear out.  I have also been known to leave a little bit (like in a squirrel cut) and then clean it up with a chisel for that "hand tool look" w/out the hand tool work.

Shinnlinger

[shinnlinger]

[shinnlinger]

[StorminN]

Hey Dave!

Good to see you on here, long time no see! This is my first time in the timberframe forum, I spend all my time in the sawmill forum... but I'm up in Vancouver, BC for a couple of days and went to Lee Valley today, so I'm thinking about chisels and bits for timber framing... I picked up an old (1840's?) 2" socket chisel, and a 1" auger, starting my tool bag... I figured I'd take a look over here and see what people are using... and who do I run into?? Ha!

Great little rig for your chainsaw, typical Shinnlinger engenuity...

Good on ya... I agree about the pics being hard to figure out... I got spanked on that a little while back... now I just need to remember 450 pixels wide and 35kb max...

Talk to you soon, and have a good Christmas*, I miss spending it with you guys...

-Norm.

[shinnlinger]

Norm,

You turned me onto this site!  Don't kill yourself on the tools.  I haven't completely digested this thread and the"Big Al" seems to be a neat rig, but I have been happy with my good ol framing square when production isn't the end all be all.  It is handy to note that one side of the square is 2 inches wide and the other is 11/2.  I figured that one out about halfway through my first frame.  Just line up one side of a 2 inch mortise and the other side is lined up too if you know what I mean...

I would say a nice long 1-1/2 framing chisel is sufficient as a 2 incher gets awful hard to drive after a few hours of mortising.  I really only use that one chisel, on a hot day I might swap down to a 1 incher to give myself a blow, but if I could only have one chisel a 1-1/2 incher would work for me.   On my next big timber frame I probably will throw down for a mortiser.  These things must pay for themselves pretty dang quick.  They are sacrilege around here as they are considered cheating, which I find odd.  If you are using a hole hawg, a circular saw and a chainsaw (Not to mention a tractor w/forks and a crane) what difference does it make if you are using a mortiser?  Most folks just want big beams and joints to look at and don't much care how they got there.

Another tool I like and I don't think is mentioned here is a Garland leather faced mallet.  They are designed for sheet metal work so they wont tear up your nice old world chisel, but they have enough weight to really give it the thunder if you are in a knot or hardwood.   Mine is a #3 split head which is a little heavy for mere mortals but the #3 pressed head is probably just right for most folks.

I only used a 1and 2 inch auger(9inchers) and a 2 inch forstner with the spur tip with the hole hawg, a 7-1/4 and an 8-1/4 circular saw, and the jems above on my last frame.  Plan your joints to what you have handy and make a go of it.  Some farmer hacked out most of the frames around here over 200 years ago with not much more than an axe!

Shinnlinger

[Brad_bb]

Great thread, Jim!
For new chisels, Barr Chisels are nice.  I don't own but got a chance to use someone else's.  I have antiques now, but I wouldn't hesitate to get the Barr ones.  Just google Barr tools.  As a matter of fact, I just saw Barr featured on "Cool Tools" on the DIY channel last night showing how they make them.  They are a smaller outfit from out west(Idaho or Utah I think).  All are hand made(using equipment).
   I bought a Steve Chappell designed mallet.  I like it alot.  Thick handle to reduce fatigue, nice design from south American hardwood.  Check out his mallets at Foxmaple.com

[moonhill]

A quote from Norm...... Some farmer hacked out most of the frames around here over 200 years ago with not much more than an axe!     Jim you have no axe listed in your list?  Is there a reason for that?  It is the most used tool in my box, in that it removes more wood than any other tool.   I don't know if Barr makes any axes, I asked if he did a few years back and he said he would if I sent him an example or drawings.  I made due with what I had.  May entertain the idea again some time. 

Tim

[Jim_Rogers]

Tim:
I just forgot to add the axe.....
You're right it should be on the list.

Jim Rogers

[devonoak]

Wow
 Thats very thorough! We do a lot of scribe rule stuff with curved timbers in the uk
 have a look at www.devonoak.co.uk to see more. All the best, Tom

[moonhill]

A couple more tool I didn't see on Jim's list that I saw under Tom's link:  A very sturdy green timber cart and the crane on the Unimog.   Nice work, Tom.

Tim

 

[Rig]

Very nice explanations, Jim.

I use a lot of long and bowed timbers, for which the Big Al would not work. But I'm getting one for my other 75% that it will work with. I think my helpers would benefit from using one.

Just for fun, I'll present a list of traveling tools that I can pack up in a bag and take with me to do any timber framing job. I will add to and edit Jim's list down to what I consider the essential travel kit:

Fits into one Tool bag or box, 26" long and about 12"x17" in cross-section.


Layout tools

Calculator (Construction Master)
Chalk line
Combination square
Framing square
Lumber crayons
Carpenter pencils
Giant erasers
Plumb bob
Tape measure (25 ft.)
Utility knife

Hand tools
Leatherman Wave
Timberframing mortise chisels (2", 1.5", and 1")
Slicks (2" and 1")
Wooden or leather head mallet (2-3 lb.)
Japanese (Tajima) rapid pull saw w/crosscut 300 & rip blades
Block plane (sharp)
Levels (torpedo, 24".)
Outside dimension calipers
Sharpening stones (oil for winter, water for summer)
   
Power tools
Heavy duty cordless drill w/1/2" chuck
1" auger bit, 1" spade bit, 2" Forstner bit
Circular saw, direct drive (7 1/4", about 10 amp)
Extra saw blade, thin kerf carbide.
Extension cord (#12, 25' minimum)

Personal Safety Equipment
Ear plugs
Job-site drinking bottle
Nail apron, or leather apron with pockets
Safety glasses & Sunglasses
Work gloves

All the other things you really need are common on any job site. Besides the bag above, I will normally travel with my chain mortiser, but I can do without it.

[balsabones]

Hello to all from SC USA.
I have been corresponding with Jim VIA email and I cant begin to tell you all what a help he has been! I am fixing to start a 12' X 16' cabin, for my cousin to stay in when he comes to hunt my property. Another project I am doing first is an addition on my double wide mobile home. As I explained to Jim, if you can picture it, half a barn, cut down the center, minus one half. The other half is stick built, with a walk onto timber framed sun room. I am going to attempt to design it on DIETRICHS 2D cad program. Once I get it drawn and designed I will attempt to post it for criticism or suggestions (both are welcome). I have my own 20 acres of 15 yr old lobblolly pines, and chainsaw sawmill (Logasol attachment with stadium bench seat guide rail). My own version of the M7. I am using a Husky 395 XP W/24" bar.
I look forward to posting and learning from you all

[spenser]

I am a new member and am interested in buying some basic tools for personal use. Can I use this forum if I want to purchase something from Jim ?

[Jim_Rogers]

I am a new member and am interested in buying some basic tools for personal use. Can I use this forum if I want to purchase something from Jim ?

Spenser:
Go to the "for sale" section and find the list of tools we have for sale. Also, my gallery has lots of pictures of the tools.
Please email me via the regular email system for more tool buying info.
Thanks.

Jim Rogers

[Ozarkian]

Thanks for the post Jim, you are mighty resourceful!!  This will help me a lot as a guide for my building. 

Do you have a list of timber species and their value in timber framing?

I want to use ERC, but I know it is not the best for most structural stability.  I would like to see how it  rates versus other species. 

Thanks again!

[Jim_Rogers]

Ozarkian:
On the left side of the screen is a red tool box. Click on that and select, DonP's calculators.
Here is a direct link for that list: http://www.forestryforum.com/members/donp/CalculatorIndex.htm

In the beam calculator is a list of the most common woods and their values. But you have to click on the list to find it. Here is another direct link: http://www.forestryforum.com/members/donp/Fblist.htm

Try that first and see if that helps you.

If you go to the plan section look at the frame evaluation I did for dunkudog
here is a link: http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50714.0.html

 and read how it's done this may help you to understand how to figure out your loads and sizes.

Jim Rogers

PS. start a new thread with questions.
Keep reading and keep asking questions.....