Author Topic: Question on Cherry finishes too??? (Read 1795 times)

FeltzE · « **on:** March 29, 2004, 04:51:19 am »

I was spraying a waterbased poly on my cherry bed project and had some problems with the finish "fisheye-ing" is there any oils in cherry that may cause this? I sanded the coat real well and used a non water based poly and it was fine but I've never had that problem on other woods (not that I get to do a lot of finishing)

Thanks for your input....

Eric

Brian_Bailey · « **Reply #1 on:** March 29, 2004, 04:58:16 am »

Eric,

I'm no finishing expert.
But if I'm reading your post right, I think your problem might be due to spraying a non water base finish over a water base one.

FeltzE · « **Reply #2 on:** March 29, 2004, 05:03:13 am »

Initially I put down a Water based sanding sealer it seemed to fish eye a little, I sanded it tried a water based semi-gloss poly, same effect... sanded again and used deft self leveling non water based semi gloss with an excellent result..

It just perplexed me a bit that the water based finishes did't seem to like the cherry. I was wondering if it's my fault for using the water based finish with cherry. There is always the possibility that something else got on the wood. I could be possible that some silicone or other overspray got on there some how. unlikely though. The wood has been in my shop for almost a year collecting dust and who knows what.

Eric

Brian_Bailey · « **Reply #3 on:** March 29, 2004, 05:08:04 am »

Eric,

Was your sandpaper stearated?
Sometimes the gunk they put on the paper to keep it from loading up will cause problems with the next coat of finish.

FeltzE · « **Reply #4 on:** March 29, 2004, 05:11:01 am »

I don't know, I was using some Hook and Loop backed paper on my dewalt palm sander so I assume it's ok,

The more I think about it the more I think the wood may have absorbed some overspray from something else...again who knows.

Brian_Bailey · « **Reply #5 on:** March 29, 2004, 05:21:49 am »

If the sandpaper has a soapy feel to it, it's probably stearated.

One way to get around a contaminated finish is to sand it down and put on a coat of Zinsser's, Bulls Eye, SealCoat Sanding sealer. SealCoat is just a 2 lb. cut of dewaxed blond shellac.
You can then top coat it with a water base, oil base, or lacquer type finish.
SealCoat makes an excellent finish by itself too.

Tom · « **Reply #6 on:** March 29, 2004, 09:19:37 am »

Two of the most "orange-peel-creating" things I've been warned of were Oil and Silicone. Dust generally causes fish-eyes. If your wood has been protected in the shop, then perhaps a foreign product was introduced in a previous manufacturing step. That is why I stay away from silicone as a lubricant on the sawmill and stay away from petroleum products as blade lubricants. Perhaps the quantity is miniscule and possibly doesn't hurt a thing, but, I worry that someone down the road may have problems like this from something that I innocently applied to the wood.

It would also warrant your attention to the possibility that these products may have come into contact with the wood while in your shop. Aerosol silicone lubricants are death to finishes in a wood shop. Some folks spray and wipe those things on sawblades, table tops, equipment beds and other surfaces, not considering that it could get on the wood.

ronwood · « **Reply #7 on:** March 29, 2004, 02:37:36 pm »

FeltzE,

When I finish a project I use a Min wax oil base stain. Wipe it off and let it dry for several days. Then I use an HVLP sprayer putting on 4 to 5 light coats of water based lacquer. If I spray it to heavy I end up with a orange peel finish on the project. I buy my water base lacer from www.targetcoatings.com.

I think that the solvent base laquer may give a slightly deeper finish but I like the water base since it is a lot less flammable. Either lacquer dries pretty quick so dust is usually not a problem. I have not tried it on cherry however.

Ron

Brian_Bailey · « **Reply #8 on:** March 29, 2004, 07:42:38 pm »

Tom,

I wouldn't worry to much about contaminating the wood at the primary break down level. By the time the lumber is ready to use, any oil residues will be taken off when planed.

Orange peel and fish eye are two different finishing defects.

Orange peel is caused by spraying a finish that is too thick or by holding the gun to far away from what your trying to hit

.

Fish eye is a surface tension thingy between the finish and the contaminates on the wood.
Silicone oil is a major player in causing fish eye and the way to over come this problem is by using fish eye eliminator which is silicone oil

Ya, go figure

If you suspect the wood you're going to finish might be contaminated, use dewaxed shellac for the 1st coat then top coat with whatever your favorite finish is. Just don't use a penetrating oil finish over the shellac though.

FeltzE · « **Reply #9 on:** March 30, 2004, 03:24:26 am »

Thanks for the advice ! This weekend I'll be working on the cherry framed under bed cabnets and drawers

The outer frame is cherry the drawers are mostly gum some poplar and some pine, but the face will be cherry

Brian_Bailey · « **Reply #10 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:08:42 am »

Eric,

That's going to be a nice looking bed

.
I especially like your dovetailing on the drawers.
Did you cut them by hand or use a jig?
I don't see the tell tale sign of hand cut so I'll bet you used a jig

.

Ga_Boy · « **Reply #11 on:** March 30, 2004, 09:35:33 am »

Eric,

Looks good. I like the dove tail drawers, nice touch.

I hope you post some pictures when its done.

Ga Boy

FeltzE · « **Reply #12 on:** March 30, 2004, 12:14:32 pm »

I used a Leigh jig on the drawers, I'm kinda wierd that way. I may leave a knot or bark pocket in the middle of a project but then go overboard on joinery that no one will ever see in the finished project.

There will be a drawer face attached to the front so that none of the tails will be visible when every thing is closed. :-/

Brian, whats the "tell tale signs of hand cut"

Eric

Ga_Boy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 30, 2004, 12:23:48 pm »

"I used a Leigh jig on the drawers, I'm kinda wierd that way. "

Don't be so hard on your self Eric.

I'll bet your'e weird in a lot of differnt ways.

FeltzE · « **Reply #14 on:** March 30, 2004, 01:47:04 pm »

Well I won't discuss how my wood should be finished, waxed, or oiled....

Brian_Bailey · « **Reply #15 on:** March 30, 2004, 07:32:31 pm »

Eric,

The beauty of making your own furniture is the fact you're doing it your way and as long as your happy with what you've created, that's all that matters. Doesn't make you weird

.

When I see dovetails on custom furniture, the first thing I look for is scribe lines.
If I don't see them, it's a pretty sure bet that a jig was used. But then again some craftsmen will sand or scrape the lines off.
That's why I asked

I like the way you laid your's out.

I can never understand why someone will go to the trouble of making a piece of custom furniture and then cut the dovetails to look like they were factory made.

FeltzE · « **Reply #16 on:** April 15, 2004, 06:39:20 pm »

Here is the finished product, just has to be bolted together..

Ga_Boy · « **Reply #17 on:** April 15, 2004, 07:00:58 pm »

Hoo Yah, GOOD JOB!!!

shopteacher · « **Reply #18 on:** April 15, 2004, 07:08:32 pm »

She's a beauty.

mhasel · « **Reply #19 on:** April 15, 2004, 07:54:43 pm »

Eric,

WOW, very nice looking work there. Did I read correctly that you were using gum for the drawers?? The black gum we have around here twists and bows like a son-of-a-gun, how did you ever keep it from twisting?? The only thing I have used it for was a trailer deck and that was bolted down so it didn't do too bad and I would have never used it if I hadn't been in a pinch for needing the trailer.

Anywho, GREAT job there, very nice looking work.

Mike

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Author Topic: Question on Cherry finishes too??? (Read 1795 times)