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Author Topic: Sealing log ends  (Read 5643 times)

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Offline learner

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Sealing log ends
« on: November 16, 2012, 11:51:37 pm »
Okay I've checked all the Old posts and a few of the newer ones, but can't find what i'm looking for.
I've used a basic roof coating to seal some of the logs and it seems to work well.
But the thing is, at $10 a gallon I might as well get a seal Made for logs. I know about Anchorseal but are there any others or have they cornered the market?
Also, I just got a few pine logs with the ends completely covered in sap. Should I end seal them and if so, how would you do it? I mean brushing sealer on would just get the sap all over the brush.  And pine sap is some sticky stuff!
Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions?
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Offline Okrafarmer

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2012, 11:57:19 pm »
I been told pine ends don't need sealed. They won't split before they're too far gone to mill, or some such thing. I have sometimes sealed them....

I use Anchorseal, but I have also sometimes used latex paint. Most things are better than nothing. You can often get reject latex paint at home improvement stores for about $5. Usually gallons that somebody asked to have mixed, but then they didn't like the color, and so the paint mixer person tried again. Then they have to sell the mistake paint, and so it's on sale for $5.

However, some people say latex paint is not very useful for logs. But I have seen some of my logs where I sealed them with latex paint, and then left them for several years, and never got around to milling them, and those logs rotted all around the log but left the painted end nice and flat intact. So-- ymmv, as they say.
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Online GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2012, 01:45:28 am »
Acrylic latex, will seal somewhat.  You can use paraffin wax, but it is quite flammable and may travel into the manufacturing plant and cause problems.   So, Anchorseal or roofing cement seem to be the best choices.
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2012, 05:43:06 am »
I suppose everyone has their favorite methods .Mine is roof tar or foundation /driveway sealer .The price is relatively inexpensive and it seals very well .Prior to milling just cut a cookie off  and re coat with anchorseal because if you mill with the tar it streaks the lumber and probabley doesn't do the saw much good either .

Funny though ,just a few days ago I visted a local mill to get help identifying a species of hardwood I wasn't familiar with .It turned out to be bitternut hickory .I observed they didn't have one log coated with anything and there were thousands of logs .

Offline WDH

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2012, 07:26:09 am »
I have found latex paint to be marginal in effectiveness.  There would still be some end checks and splits in the lumber.  Aluminum roofing paint worked well, but was a horrible mess to work with.  For no more logs than most people will need to seal, go ahead and get the original formula anchorseal.  It is wonderful and cleans up with water.  It is a pleasure to use versus any kind of roofing stuff.  Life is too short not to use anchorseal or a LogRite cant hook :)
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2012, 08:20:50 am »
Now don't get me wrong because anchor seal is good or perhaps the stuff Baileys sells as well is .It however will not take weather for very long .

Ideally the logs would be milled in a timely fashion but unfortunately that doesn't always happen and if that would be the case anchor seal wouldn't be the best choice .

As far as the price anchorseal or in fact driveway sealer usually is cheaper than cheap paint .Unless you find free paint or something .

Yeah tar is messy .Simple,get a long handle and a 5 dollar tampaco roof brush .Either throw the brush away or dunk it in a bucket of gasoline for twenty minutes and use it over again .Put a lid on the rest of the bucket of  gas and use it over again the next go around .--junk yard dog trivia 101 ---

Offline Okrafarmer

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2012, 09:17:39 am »
Anchorseal = $20 / gallon.
Latex paint (new at Home depot, as rejeccts) = $5 / gallon.

Anchorseal is not cheap.  :(
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Offline tyb525

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #7 on: November 17, 2012, 09:32:32 am »
I bought a 5 gal bucket almost 3 years ago, it was about $55 dollars. That's cheaper than 5 gallons of paint. It is at least half full still, and I have coated quite a few logs. It doesn't go bad if you keep the lid on and keep it from freezing.

It's also very useful for sealing turning blanks, and if you do make a little mess it's not some wild color ;)

Latex paint is not sealer, it is actually designed to let walls "breathe", so it will also do that with you logs. Anchorseal is pretty much watertight. I read a study where someone end coated a thick board and then a couple spots on the face of the board. The spots they coated were quite a bit higher MC than the uncoated spots.
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #8 on: November 17, 2012, 11:04:29 am »
Yeah it was around 55 bucks for 5 gal  a few years back the last I bought .Baileys has gone up to 67 for 5  but that still isn't no 20 bucks a gallon .That's e-bay prices where noone knows any different and in gallon lots .

Maybe it has though as I really didn't check it out much .The last I bought was from a supplier in Ohio so the freight wasn't much and I still have about half a pail left .It goes a long way .

Besides the point but a point to ponder .I have a friend who is an excellant woodworker .His lumber after milling is painted on the ends with paint patterns  to mark which tree it came off of .Small quantities but the only way to be certain nature colors,grain patterns  are maintained to a tee is if the lumber comes off the same tree .Not for everybody of course but it works out well for him .

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #9 on: November 17, 2012, 11:10:44 am »
Holy cow I just checked it out .The last I bought of anchor seal at 55 per 5 gal is now $86.95 .Free shipping .Inflation has hit the buckeys state . :(

Offline Okrafarmer

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2012, 11:12:27 am »
I'm planning to go buy some at the store right now. I will tell you what the price is. I looked at it online, and they have it for $11 + $7.50 shipping.  :(

As I said, paint is $5 / gallon all day long at the store. But I do use anchorseal, it is definitely better. Sometimes I just hate the high price.
No matter how conventional wisdom may fly in the face of radical thought, it's still the most popular type.

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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2012, 05:01:36 pm »
Timely thread .Just 5 minutes ago I walked back in the house from smearing roof tar on the ends of two  hickory logs .I dropped the tree two days ago,wind blown top ,hazard .

Not giant ,3/4 cord firewood ,300 bd ft saw logs .

Offline Okrafarmer

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2012, 05:06:53 pm »
I'm planning to go buy some at the store right now. I will tell you what the price is. I looked at it online, and they have it for $11 + $7.50 shipping.  :(

$21.49 at Woodcrafters, so I should have ordered it online.
No matter how conventional wisdom may fly in the face of radical thought, it's still the most popular type.

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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2012, 08:16:58 pm »
Flea bay wanted 29 a gallon .This place is 76 for 5 .Free shipping I think https://www.uccoatings.com/WebStore?ProductSKU=H205COLORG

Offline Okrafarmer

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2012, 08:36:13 pm »
Hmm. I bookmarked it for later.  ;)
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Offline WDH

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #15 on: November 17, 2012, 08:54:07 pm »
It is still a bargain at that price given its effectiveness and ease of use.
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #16 on: November 17, 2012, 09:32:58 pm »
It's great stuff I always said that but I also said it won't take weather which it won't .

I don't have the luxury like some of you with a bandsaw mill sitting in the barn .I either have to hire someone or get off my butt and get the one done I've started .So in my case I need something that will last .

On that I tested some shagbark today that's sat for three years ,ends sealed ,cribbed up off the ground .Still solid as the rock of Gibralter .It will eat up bands but I'll bet there isn't much loss .Nary a crack in the ends --roof tar .

Offline WDH

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #17 on: November 17, 2012, 09:37:52 pm »
3 year-old-cut shagbark hickory will give my woodmizer LT15 nightmares (and me too  :)). 

That is the Wikipedia definition of "hard"  :D.
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #18 on: November 18, 2012, 06:44:35 am »
Yeah it'll be like a chunk of granite no doubt as I suppose the oak and ash will be .

This friend of mine who uses different paints to mark his lumber has had a lot of stuff milled in somewhat of an untimely fashion .Not the best method certainly but the lumber looks fine albiet the bands suffer .

Keep in mind most us around here are dealing with standing dead ,wind blown and general salvaged stuff .

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #19 on: November 18, 2012, 06:56:27 am »
The guy who milled my last stuff is a lineman who has worked out of Detroit for years .He and his brothers  also linemen had access to hundreds and hundreds of the butt ends of 90 foot western red cedar poles that were cut down to make 70 footers .Freebies no less .

They went together and bought I think was a WM Lt 15 or about that size which was trailer mounted and only had a 12HP Briggs engine .In spite of the fact it was only 12 HP that thing could rip down 30" oak amazingly fast .They sold enough cedar to more than pay for mill and then some in about 6 months .

When he did the last oak for me he did break two bands which cost me like 24 bucks a piece which considering the amount of lumber and no more than I had in the milling I had no complaints .

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #20 on: November 18, 2012, 08:38:59 am »
Anchorseal can have antifreeze.

Latex paint is slightly affective, but it must be acrylic, which does not breath as much as interior wall paint.  I did mention acrylic in my earlier post but some seem to have missed this.

Anchorseal on logs does not weather much if the product is put on thick enough and the ends are not frozen or muddy.  We tested it for six months...June to Dec and it was still ok.  Do not apply a thin coat, like painting a wall.  It must be quite thick or, for Rembrandt of Picasso type people, use two coats.  If you use a sprayer, get a thick coating and do not use a fine mist.
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #21 on: November 18, 2012, 08:54:56 am »
Well the anchorseal used in these parts is of course winter type .It'll handle 6 months but much longer than that it seems to fade out fast .Now maybe if a person took the time to recoat every so often that would not be a factor .

Again though as I said with a majority of the hobbyist type woodworkers in this area as myself the method of accumulating  a small catche of logs before they are milled is less than ideal .

Keep in mind though as my avatar says this is right smack dab in the middle of a giant cornfield and that is no exageration .Illinois and Iowa might claim to be big corn states but this part of Ohio runs a pretty good second or third .

Offline Tree Feller

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #22 on: November 19, 2012, 10:55:06 am »
I get original formula Anchorseal from a local woodturning club for $10 per gallon. They buy it in bulk thus the savings to the members. I always apply two thick coats to log ends with a 4" brush.

For my limited needs, it's the best option, primarily because of the ease of application and water cleanup.

Prior to getting my own mill, I would often use various colors of paint on the log ends just to identify which logs I wanted sawn a certain way. I would normally leave my trailer of logs at the sawyer's house with sawing instructions inside a plastic baggie attached. He was rarely home when I'd drop off the logs and seemed to appreciate the color coding. 
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Offline bedway

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #23 on: November 19, 2012, 11:42:10 am »
Ive been using acrylic later paint for about two years and it does a great job. My brother who used to work for sears got a pile of one gallon cans for 50 cents each people decided they didnt want after they had been mixed. Ive never used Anchorseal so i can compare. I can say ive run tests of unsealed ends and those with the paint and its like night and day better.

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #24 on: November 19, 2012, 12:04:53 pm »
I guess as life is you learn by your mistakes .I had some stuff I had tarred then cut a cookie off and it was milled .I dilly dallyed around coating the fresh sawn stuff with anchor seal and sure enough got splits some so much  so I lost 18" off each end .

A fact that recently annoyed me after I went through an entire stack  just to find two 12"  planks clear enough to get 12 feet out of to make a fireplace mantle .Shoulda,coulda, woulda .

Offline bedway

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #25 on: November 19, 2012, 01:32:55 pm »
I got a guy stopped by yesterday asking for a mantel 10"x 8'x3"thick. Clear red oak. What would you think a fair price would be to charge him AL?

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #26 on: November 19, 2012, 02:39:11 pm »
I have no idea what the lumber prices would be in Pa for a clear piece of oak like that.You're looking at approx 24 Bd ft plus premium price if it were straight clear I should think .Cash talks though but Lawdy don't trade him for an old shotgun and a 14 year old coon dog  :D .Joking of course because I live in the land of the "horse traders "

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #27 on: November 19, 2012, 04:40:28 pm »
Ive used the Baileys end seal for years.   The five gallon bucket will last two or three years since I do mostly hobby sawing.   I did have to add water to it in year two as it thickened up in the container.  Since it is an emulsion it thins up with the water with no problem.

I have used exterior latex paint also.  We have a hot low humidity climate so I always use two thick coats if I go with the paint.  Get some cracking with one coat.   Baileys end seal one thick coat, generally no cracking.
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Offline learner

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #28 on: November 19, 2012, 07:25:08 pm »
Ok, I'm convinced that Anchor Seal or this Baileys is the way to go.  All I've used so far is Kool Seal roof coating but that stuff is MORE expensive. It works great and I was able to color it with food coloring for color coding the wood.
Was able to saw through it with No problems and yet it sticks good. Didn't gum up the blade either. But like I say it's prohibitavely expensive. So I will go with one of the others.
But I have to ask. Any ideas for coloring it or should I just pay the extra to buy it colored? Seems to me it wood be cheaper to buy 5 gallons and just divide into gallons I can color. Lord knows I have plenty of empty paint cans I can use!
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #29 on: November 19, 2012, 08:23:47 pm »
I strongly encourage you to use Badger Red coloring.

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #30 on: November 19, 2012, 10:09:52 pm »
I personally like Red & Black  ;D.

Bedway, I would charge $4.50 per BF for the clear red oak mantle if it was dry.
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #31 on: November 20, 2012, 12:41:38 am »
Bedway, I would charge $4.50 per BF for the clear red oak mantle if it was dry.
How would you dry it, WDH, and how long would it take? Seems like it would be air-drying for years.

At this point, I would have to sell them green. I would be charging around $3 / bf green, that is premium wood.
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #32 on: November 20, 2012, 07:06:10 am »
It takes a couple of years down here.  Your patience will be rewarded.
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #33 on: November 20, 2012, 07:45:31 am »
Well look at it like this .The guy is going to have 100-125 in the chunk of oak . Depending might have another 50 in it depending on how much ginger bread he puts on it .That thing will last 15 life times and is only a fraction of the cost had he had it custom made .

I got a grand total of almost nothing in that raised panal ash mantle I made .A few pennies for the sawyer and maybe 10-15 in stain and clear coat .I'll about bet a cabenite maker  would have laid a bill on me for over a thou for that thing .What ,two days of my  time ,big deal .

Geeze I could have spent those two days drinking beer and watching football or watching the grass grow which is about the same thrill to me .The ash was a much better use of my time and I still had a brew at the end of the day . ;)

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #34 on: November 20, 2012, 08:51:54 pm »
Geeze I could have spent those two days drinking beer and watching football or watching the grass grow which is about the same thrill to me .The ash was a much better use of my time and I still had a brew at the end of the day . ;)

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #35 on: November 21, 2012, 08:21:39 am »
Well beer is good for you contains vitamin P .

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #36 on: November 21, 2012, 11:04:57 pm »
Well beer is good for you contains vitamin P .

But-- does it work for sealing log ends?
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Offline tyb525

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #37 on: November 23, 2012, 03:09:17 pm »
It works for spalting logs, I think ;)
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Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #38 on: November 23, 2012, 05:23:28 pm »
Alright already I'll tell ya a beer story .My long time friend I've known since I was 9-10 years old about all his adult life had a beer keg on tap in his garage .Oh we'ed visit sip some suds and get rid of it behind his garage for some time ,years

One day out of the clear blue he says to me ,say Al you have white oak trees don't you .Well of course lots of them .So he says there's a bunch of shiitake mushroms on some white oak sticks  behind my garage .Spread them out in your woods and  see what happens so I did .

Well I couldn't figure out what on earth I got on my hands that smelled so bad --then it dawned on me . :D Never did grow any mushrooms .

Offline Okrafarmer

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #39 on: November 23, 2012, 06:22:19 pm »
It works for spalting logs, I think ;)

No, that's malting.
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Offline 5quarter

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #40 on: November 24, 2012, 01:39:15 am »
Gene...you mean Husker red?  ;D

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #41 on: October 16, 2017, 04:30:15 pm »
Does anyone use Duroseal to seal the ends of the logs?
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #42 on: October 16, 2017, 06:46:14 pm »
Anchorseal is probably the most popular product that's made specifically for the purpose.

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #43 on: October 22, 2017, 08:07:59 am »
I have tried old paint, aluminum paint, automotive spray-on undercoating, and finally this summer Anchorseal.  By far Anchorseal is the best I have tried.  For a very limited hobbyist like me, I can see the 2 gallon pail I got lasting a long time. 

Has anyone tried it in a garden sprayer???  Seems like that would be a good portable solution for people who take the mill to the wood.
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #44 on: October 23, 2017, 11:09:32 pm »
I've used several things, the smaller pump up garden sprayers require Anchorseal to be cut with water.  Still works, but... definitely takes two coats.

I've also used a Graco power sprayer, it's very fast but limited by the extension cord length.

A very large paint brush also works, but is slower and requires bending over for long periods of time.

I've recently been using the shoulder strap pump up herbicide sprayer UC sells for their product.  I didn't like the spray tips they provided, so put on a standard flat fan herbicide tip, and now it works great.  Very fast, and very portable.  The full viscosity Anchorseal stays in the shoulder harness hopper, doesn't dry out, so the rig doesn't require cleaning. 

The thing about Anchorseal is that you know it works.  If you don't spray hardwood logs or lumber, they will crack.  Spray them, they won't.   

I tried the different colors but didn't like them, they obscure the end grain and I need that view to mill more precisely.


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Offline WDH

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #45 on: October 24, 2017, 07:43:26 am »
Robert,

I am interested in the sprayer.  Can you provide more info on where to get it?
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #46 on: October 24, 2017, 09:42:53 pm »
It is here but I couldn't find the price.  http://uccoatings.com/products/spraying-equipment/

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #47 on: October 24, 2017, 10:11:17 pm »
I bought it direct from UC Coatings when I ordered a batch of Anchorseal.

Here's a video using both the power sprayer, as well as the backpack sprayer.  Both work well but the backpack will let me roam a lot more.  Main thing is to pump and keep the pressure high and the Anchorseal patterns well. As I said, I use a slightly different flat pattern tip but they supply a couple choices with the sprayer.

The video is "How to Apply Anchorseal" with the girl in the yellow shirt.  She uses the backpack sprayer at about 50 seconds into the video.
http://uccoatings.com/videos/

I don't remember the price, it wasn't cheap, but about the same as one I had found for spraying herbicides at the local COOP but I figured this was more optimized.  So far, it's been very mechanically sound and I've put quite a few gallons through it. 

Although I've never had it clog, and I store the Anchorseal in the sprayer when I'm done, the exterior of the spray tip will sometime crust up messing up the even, flat spray pattern, so when I put the rig on my back I go by the air compressor and blow some air on the exterior of the tip to clear it. 

I use it both for log ends, as well as lumber before or after I sticker it, which is more efficient and less wasteful.  No more cleanup.  No more bending, much more better. 


 
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Offline xlogger

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #48 on: October 25, 2017, 05:25:16 am »
Robert, I have a couple of those back pack sprayers. I tried using coating on a small hand held one and it was too thick. Did you make the tip you use or was it one they offered.
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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #49 on: October 25, 2017, 07:59:59 am »
I also tried to use full viscosity Anchorseal with the little hand held 2 gallon pump up sprayer with dismal results.  The Anchorseal dribbled out about as fast as a mouse with a UTI. 

So I was was very hesitant to spend money on a bigger version of failure.  However, I figured since UC Coatings sold it, and the video looked pretty good, not great, but pretty good, I figured I'd take a chance.

I was pleasantly surprised when I used it for the first time, its works at a much higher sprayer pressure than the handheld sprayers, but since I've never used another backpack sprayer, I don't have anything to compare it against on those. 

They provide a variety of tips with the sprayer, a brass round pattern and a red flat tip like used in herbicide spray rigs.  The round tip shot the stuff out like a shotgun, pretty unevenly, so was hard to get a smooth coat.  The flat tip also sprayed out a pretty good mist but in short order, I thought I could do a little better.  So I went down to Tractor Supply, and they sell TeeJet tips that fit the standard size of the sprayer nozzle.  I just bought a few orifice diameters and tried them.  Nothing wrong with the tips supplied with the sprayer, just I'm always thinking there may be something better.

What is interesting and surprising about the sprayer is that it actually puts on a thicker coat than I sometimes want, at least as thick as a brush.  Main thing is that in order to keep the pressure up high enough to spray and spread well, you have to use two hands like in the video.  Because of this I have tried cutting with a little water, but most times I don't, I just dump a few gallons in the sprayer and head to the log pile One hand pressurizing, the other hand spraying.

If you have a backpack already, I'd give it a try.

 


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Offline xlogger

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Re: Sealing log ends
« Reply #50 on: October 26, 2017, 05:55:29 am »
I'll check on those tips. thanks
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