Home Brew Bandmill

[redpowerd]

i may have missed some stuff in an earlier post.
do you have problems with the moveable blade guide linkage?
have you found the reason for the arm shakin? i wonder whats causing the blade to shake? whats it do in wood? do you have a pic of your arm mechanics? thanks

[GoManGo]

The cross members between the band wheels are not made of 1/8th tubing.  They are made of 2x2x3/8th angle.  The receivers for the adjustable wheel is made of 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 0.238 wall tubing, and the actual sliders that the band wheel is mounted to is 2 x 1/4 square tubing welded to a 5/16 thick plate.  I dont think that we will have a flexing problem, but I guess it is possible.  I will keep an eye on it and make the mods you suggested if there are any problems.  The cage chassis is what is 1/8th tubing.

redpowerd...

The arm shaking is just when extended when cutting slabs into boards.  It doesn't shake when the guides are far apart.  The guide arm has no linkage to speak of.  It’s locked in by turning a T-handled that is threaded into the receiver tube.  We seem to have eliminated a great deal of the vibration by welding a couple braces to the receiver.  The remainder of the vibration is easily eliminated by a couple stiff bungee cords.
I wont have a decent photo for you until this weekend, but for now, here is what I have.  I will try to get a better shot for you later.  



As for the upper blade flutter dampener... its in, and doesnt seem to effect the preformance of the saw, so we are going to rip a few logs with it and see what happens.  I guess I wont know if it helps until it's removed.  Currently, the blade is a lot more stable on top than before all these modifications. (blade guides, bracing, and all that)

[Fla._Deadheader]

Ahhh, I SEE said the blind man.

 Just thought when ya showed the photo laden post, that you was talkin about the sawframe and the 2 X tubing about the same time. Goes to show ya can't ASSUME nuttin on here.  You have built the mill plenty heavy and done a fine job.

 You may also try adjusting the engine RPM when sawing. On ours, a certain RPM will produce a slight "flutter" and just a bump of the throttle will eliminate it. It creates a harmonic frequency vibration. Them $30,000.00 mills don't get that

 Most guys use the high torque on the blade tension. We prefer to use just enough to get a smooth cut, with NO slippage. We use a 3/8ths ratchet and socket to tighten the blade. We cut 36" wide boards in Red Oak, 2 days ago, that has been on top of a brush pile, for 10 years. We gots HARD RO down here.

[buildthisfixthat]

?

[lostyooper6]

On another subject, what did you use for the guide wheels, I'm looking at builing a slabbing mill and have been digging around the internet for something suitable to use that is cost effective. 

[Swede]

6001-ZZ C3

Some days I still miss my sawmill 

Swede