NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"

[SasquatchMan]

Atlast, the Stihl's run out of fuel first so you aren't cutting without bar oil.  fill the fuel tank, fill the oil tank.  You'll never cut dry that way.

[isawlogs]

 Atlas
  Your saw should run out of gas first, ifnot you would be puting alot of unwanted strain on your chain and bar from lack of oil.... I have 6 Stihl saws and all of them are like that and would not have it any other way...
  As far as breacking a saw in its like whats been said put it to work but with out  w. o. t .  out of wood
 All of my saws where bought new a few years ago (long story made short ROBBERS ) And all of them where tried out at the shop just like you said I did not have a problem with what they did because of the way they did it ....They wot the saw but only for a very very short time only to make sure of the settings

[VA-Sawyer]

Hate to tell you all this but, rings won't "seat"  during idle. By design, compression rings use the pressure in the combustion chamber to force the rings to expand tighter against the cylinder walls. There just isn't enough pressure during idle to cause any expansion. No expansion...No seating.
People that let new 4 stroke engines idle too much can glaze the cylinder walls. Those engines will be "oil-burners" till the cylinders are re-honed. As all 2 strokes are oil burners to begin with, then a glazed cylinder doesn't show up as a big problem.
As for the WOT thing. I have no problem with a short run at WOT to check the mixture settings. After that I would try to avoid WOT out of the cut. The higher the rpm the greater the heat of friction. The rough surfaces of new parts have greater friction than smoother worn in parts. At high RPM's the higher temps caused by the friction of rougher surfaces can cause microscopic melting of metal surfaces. This leads to metal swapping, otherwise known as galling. You want new parts to polish together, not weld together. Truth is that max RPM's without a load is pretty hard on most engines. There are a lot of dynamic vibration problems in doing that.
Bottom line...Don't baby it. Don't overrev it. Break it in like you are going to run it, except, I like to add a little extra oil to the first tank because of the extra friction with new parts.
VA-Sawyer

[AtLast]

VERY well said VA......pretty much how I did it too....I just couldnt see " babying" it....I bought it to put it to work....VERY interesting expansion point though...does that explain the puff of smoke on enitial rev?

[Brian_B.]

I have never needed a saw until now and I am in the process of picking it out.
I have run several Remote Control Airplane and Car Engines. They are also air cooled Two Stroke’s and they run on a Methanol blended fuel. It is standard practice on those types of engines to run several tanks of fuel before you actually play with them. I was taught to NOT let the throttle stay in one place very long to rev up NOT MORE Than 3/4 Throttle and down repeatedly for the first few tanks. The raising and lowering of the engine temp would break-in the engine correctly.

[sawguy21]

I let the saw warm up for a minute or so then run it about half throttle to ensure the oiler is doing its thing. I won't run any saw at WOT without load. Last time I did that, the clutch spun off and disappeared for parts unknown

[hydro2]

I certainly would think you would want it to run out of gas before it runs out or oil, otherwise you will be smoking your bar!!! DAH!!!!!!!