Author Topic: Chainsaw Workbench (Read 1155 times)

Ward Barnes · « **on:** February 10, 2012, 10:28:27 am »

Howdy Folks:

If you were to build a purpose built workbench for working on chainsaws how would you build it? What equipment would you have on it and what would you permanently mount?

God Bless, Ward and Mary.

lumberjack48 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2012, 11:00:36 am »

Working height for you, 8' long, 2' wide, 2x? top, with 3/8 plywood over that, good solid top.

Small vice bolted down, chain breaker, bolted down, chain riveter, bolted down, Drill press, bolted down, small air tank, to clean things up.

A sheet of 4' x 8' pegboard behind table to hang tools, parts, chain, and ect. on.

Kevin · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2012, 01:24:22 pm »

I'd want a swivel vise and air compressor.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2012, 01:30:43 pm »

I built bench #2 to work on saws without bending at my back. Just below chest high. My back likes when I am on that bench.

JDeere · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2012, 08:56:57 pm »

Quote from: lumberjack48 on February 10, 2012, 11:00:36 am

Working height for you, 8' long, 2' wide, 2x? top, with 3/8 plywood over that, good solid top.

Small vice bolted down, chain breaker, bolted down, chain riveter, bolted down, Drill press, bolted down, small air tank, to clean things up.

A sheet of 4' x 8' pegboard behind table to hang tools, parts, chain, and ect. on.

Lumberjack48 thanks for the info. I have an old camper we use in the winter to store things, have lunch in and get warm. My next project is to build a work bench in it and your suggestions will be very helpful.

sawguy21 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2012, 10:15:50 pm »

I need to build one in the shed when I find my round toit, looking for ideas to hold the saw steady yet be able to turn as necessary.

WildDog · « **Reply #6 on:** February 11, 2012, 05:11:15 am »

Lumberjack48 has got it nailed.....I have a dedicated bench for chainsaw/postborer work etc nothing special. What I do prefer these days for chain sharpening is my blacksmiths post vise on a post at a good workable height that I can walk around when the saw is clamped.

Ward Barnes · « **Reply #7 on:** February 11, 2012, 09:14:18 am »

Howdy Folks:

Thanks for the input. I now have a basic idea on how to build the workbench. Looking on the carport I have a number of 2"X7"X8' boards and a few 2'X4" boards as well.

Scratching around I also located solid 1/2" pressed board (25"X8'4") that can be used as the seamless bench top. Not as good as plywood, but, it is free. In your opinion would I be better off with plywood vs the pressed board? My concern is the press board may come apart over time when exposed to fuels or moisture.

Also on the carport is a number of smaller pegboard sheets from a salvaged store display and 3 wood salvaged storage cabinets that are of various heights and are 31" wide and 12 inches deep with doors attached.

Thanks for the input and if you have other thoughts please let me know.

God Bless, Ward and Mary.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #8 on:** February 11, 2012, 09:27:52 am »

After you build one with all the gadgets on it you will learn that you will want another without them on there to work on the saws and another.

Thats why I have bench #1 #2 #3

John Mc · « **Reply #9 on:** February 11, 2012, 09:42:14 am »

Quote from: Ward Barnes on February 11, 2012, 09:14:18 am

Scratching around I also located solid 1/2" pressed board (25"X8'4") that can be used as the seamless bench top. Not as good as plywood, but, it is free. In your opinion would I be better off with plywood vs the pressed board? My concern is the press board may come apart over time when exposed to fuels or moisture.

Have you thought about screwing down a replaceable sheet of 1/4" masonite, or something similar, on top of your pressboard? If it got trashed, you could just take it off and put on a new piece.

John

Holmes · « **Reply #10 on:** February 11, 2012, 09:45:24 am »

Go ahead and use the pressed board . You will get the bench built and if you have problems with the pressed board put some plywood on it later.
JDeere if you build your bench in the camper it will also become a dining room table, better stock up on the Pledge to polish it.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #11 on:** February 11, 2012, 01:47:12 pm »

I've got a neat contraption made by Kennedy which is actually two in line roller drawer cabinet tool boxes with a maple top one and a half inchs thick .I mounted a vise .It's on rollers and works very well for saw work .Usually it has so much junk on it I need to rid it all off before I do any saw work though .

sawguy21 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 11, 2012, 01:53:08 pm »

Hmmm, wonder how much a couple of roll cabs would run me on craigslist. That is a great idea, the extra storage is a real bonus.

HolmenTree · « **Reply #13 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:33:48 pm »

Best advice I can give you for a work bench top is what I did. I got a 4' X 8' - 1/8" sheet of galvanized steel and had the welding shop bend it to shape on their big sheet press. It's got a 2" front lip for the benchs front edge, the horizontal top is 3 feet deep and the last 10" is bent up for the backboard.
This 8 foot long top is bolted down to a 2" X 6" wooden frame 3 feet high. I have my air compressor underneath, drill press and 5" vise on opposite ends with chain breaker and spinner bolted down beside the drill press.

Now at the moment in my backyard I'm building a small 12' X 8' shop with 8' walls, fully insulated floor, walls, & ceilng. It will be heated by a 220 electric heater , even got a 42" X 42" window over the 8' workbench.
Up until now I had my workbench in my 2 car garage where I worked on my saws, but it was foolish heating all that space just to work on saws. So my new 12' X 8' shop will be alot more cozy and practical.
Even put it on skids so if one day I should move I'll just winch it upon a trailer and take it with me. One other thing I did in constructing the mini shop is I screwed everthing thing together in its construction.
Built to last over several moves if it comes down to that.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #14 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:49:23 pm »

Quote from: sawguy21 on February 11, 2012, 01:53:08 pm

Hmmm, wonder how much a couple of roll cabs would run me on craigslist. That is a great idea, the extra storage is a real bonus.

These didn't cost me anything .They were discarded cabs from work as well as the dozen I still have at work plus 15 double stackers in my main shop .--right place ,right time .

On the other hand I did buy a couple the average price at the right auction being 50-60 bucks a pop for a base cab ,Kennedy usually .For some reason Craftsman bring more but they aren't built as well .Evidently the red or grey paint of a Craftsman is more appealing than Kennedy brown or something

Al_Smith · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:57:49 pm »

Say I am thinking about a small building like Willard .Maybe 8 by 12,12 by 16 on skids .Whatever I can get away with and not pay taxes on which I detest with a passion .

The garage is getting so full of stuff I barely have room enough to get Mrs Smiths automobile in it .The main 60 by 70 shop is 22 miles away so that's not the answer either .

It's a nice shop .Machine tools ,welders ,overhead tram rails and in ground air over hydraulics auto hoist .Not too conveniant to drive a half hour each direction to do a 10 minute job though .

HolmenTree · « **Reply #16 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:13:36 pm »

I didn't even need a building permit because the shed / shop is not permenent being its on skids.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #17 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:22:20 pm »

Bench #1 all metal, vise on one end, grinder on the other. I use magnetic strips to hold my tools. I dont like my chain breaker or spinner mounted. I only get them out and clamped in when needed.

HolmenTree · « **Reply #18 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:46:45 pm »

The amount of chain loops I spin the spinner / breaker have to be bolted down in their place along with presets and other sawchain parts sitting right beside them. Only the chain sizing banner I have mounted on a narrow piece of 6 ft long plywood I have leaning against the wall.

BTW only recently I bought my first chain spinner after almost 40 years of making sawchain loops.
The galvanized steel workbench top sure is nice .....................

Al_Smith · « **Reply #19 on:** February 11, 2012, 06:36:40 pm »

I don't need a permit either however I had no idea the stinkers would tax me if the thing was over 12 by 16 and the shed is 12 by 20 .That fact annoys me to no end . I have half a notion to saw the end off of it

So what have you done with those chain loops, peened them all ?

HolmenTree · « **Reply #20 on:** February 11, 2012, 10:39:58 pm »

Quote from: Al_Smith on February 11, 2012, 06:36:40 pm

so what have you done with those chain loops, peened them all ?

Yep with a small ball peen hammer, even most times reused the pre sets when taking a length of chain off the roll. I never had a shortage of pre sets.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #21 on:** February 12, 2012, 07:19:40 am »

Yeah on that I only have the spinner anvil that will fit 3/8" and .404 .The others like 3/8 Lo ,.325 and rarely 1/2" I peen .

I did turn some concave punchs out of grade 8 bolts that work pretty well for setting rivits also .Wow that's some tough old steel to turn though .Smoke rolls off the carbide .

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 12, 2012, 08:12:22 am »

Theirs nothing worse than a diddly, rocking, light workbench.Were all woodsmen here build the DanG thing out of oak like your serious,4x4 legs 2" top.Mount a good big american vice. Take your rivet breaker and spinner and mount each to a short heavy piece of angle iron,when you need it clamp it in the vice,then put it under the bench out of the way.This idea also works if your a reloader mount presses in the vice on angle iron. Frank C.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #23 on:** February 12, 2012, 09:07:44 am »

Kind of the same deal .The spinner is mounted on a piece of 3/4" oak .I can either clamp it in the bench vise or c clamp to the bench .It doesn't get used that often .

Having said that though I should get off my lazy behind and repair about 20 loops I have hanging on nails .That tramp metal plays a number on them .

thecfarm · « **Reply #24 on:** February 12, 2012, 09:09:26 am »

I've got one of them to today,lazy behind that is.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #25 on:** February 12, 2012, 11:23:31 am »

Well it's cold out .The older I get the less enthusiastic I am about cold weather .Florida is starting to look real good as a matter of fact .

Oh you know the tough Eskimo types brag about working in weather that would freeze the tail off a brass monkey but I figured they either have no choice in the matter or are a tad bit touched in the head .Nobody in their right mind enjoys that ,least not I .

Ward Barnes · « **Reply #26 on:** February 12, 2012, 08:30:37 pm »

Howdy Folks:

The actual quote is, "Cold enough to freeze the balls off a Brass Monkey".

In the days of wooden ships and iron men a Brass Monkey was a triangle shaped piece of brass that had holes just under the size of a cannon ball which was made of iron. The cannon balls were stored on deck on the brass monkey in readiness for battle. Because brass and iron shrink/expand at different rates when subjected to temperature changes the term, "Cold enough to freeze the balls off a Brass Monkey" was indeed a true happening. When the brass monkey got to cold the iron balls would fall off the brass monkey and roll around on the deck.

God Bless, Ward and Mary.

Paul_H · « **Reply #27 on:** February 12, 2012, 08:36:59 pm »

Maybe not Ward

WIKI

Al_Smith · « **Reply #28 on:** February 13, 2012, 06:48:04 am »

Ah Ha Ha .Sounds like a bunch of monkey business to me .

AdkStihl · « **Reply #29 on:** February 13, 2012, 02:47:29 pm »

My operating table (

) in the shop is covered with 16ga polished stainless.
The bench in my basement is covered with linoleum. Makes cleanup a breeze!

Ward Barnes · « **Reply #30 on:** February 18, 2012, 09:15:39 pm »

Howdy:

Thanks for all the info. My new workbench is nearing completion. I think it should be sturdy enough for the job.

The top is made from 4 pcs. of 2X8s 8 feet long. The legs are 4X4s and held together by 2X8s of the appropriate size. I will add a solid top to the 4, 2x8s and a shelf will go below the table top just above the floor. The front legs are recessed to keep my feet from making contact with them. I will also add casters so the unit can be rolled around as needed. A back piece of peg hook board will be added later as well as two drawers and a small cabinet. Another cabinet may go under the workbench. That decision will come later. Every thing is put together with screws so I can modify the rig as time and uses dictate. Thanks again.

God Bless, Ward and Mary.

Clam77 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 19, 2012, 10:11:06 pm »

Sounds like the only thing you're missing is a light and a few small (2-3" maybe) drawers..

Sounds like you're on the right track though..

Migal · « **Reply #32 on:** February 19, 2012, 11:04:10 pm »

I'd recommend rough cut wood all the way...

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Author Topic: Chainsaw Workbench (Read 1155 times)