Archive
AVAILABLE




TimberKing Sawmills



The Largest Inventory of Used Chainsaw Parts in the World

Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools


Forest Products Industry Insurance

Norwood Industries Inc.

Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine



Wood Processing equpment. Splitters, Processors, Conveyors

Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL

Woodland Sawmills

Margeson Insurance

Peterson Swingmills

Pacforest Supply Company

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

 Farmi Winch Direct

Forestry Forum Tool Box

Author Topic: Log wall farm stand  (Read 1518 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline FarmerFrye

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 2
  • I'm new!
Log wall farm stand
« on: February 09, 2012, 11:33:15 pm »
Hi, Thanks for the great information you all provide on this site.
I am farmer in Massachusetts considering buying a band saw primarily to build structures in the fashion of log homes. I like the rustic look of log homes and the idea that you can build a structural wall that is also insulated appeals to me. It seems like it should be less labor intensive than stud framing.
    My plan is to cut the trees, primarily pine, in the spring, mill them into 8"x8" cants and in late summer/fall lay one on top of the other horizontally to make my walls. I will need some bracing and the first cant will lay on a pressure treated sill so as not to rot and the roof over hang would be such that rain does not hit the cants.
  I know it is not as simple as this but am I crazy to think this would work and why don't more folks build this way? I can think of a few problems and I hope you will tell me they are not such big problems as to make the idea a bad one.
 
    Will I be able to mill cants straight enough so that they lie perfectly on each other with no gap between cants? I want to eliminate air infiltration so as to keep structure well insulated.
    If I cut, mill and set to dry in the spring, will the wood be too wet to build with in the fall? If I build with wet wood and cants are still drying in place will they likely warp and create big gaps between each cant?
     Is there a potential for moisture in cants to cause rot or mold where one sits on the other?

Thanks so much for your responses

Offline dukndog

  • Full Member x2
  • ***
  • Posts: 228
  • Age: 47
  • Location: Benton, Arkansas
  • Gender: Male
  • A Traveling Man
Re: Log wall farm stand
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2012, 06:59:57 am »
FarmerFrye,

Welcome to the Forestry Forum!!
As for the "log home" I'm not too experienced with it. I do know with the band mills out there, cants are pretty much square. It's all in the storage treatment or making sure they are stacked well while waiting on the building process.
Lots of knowledgeable people here to help you though, and one of the best is in the upper east part of Mass., Mr. Jim Rogers!!

Welcome again!!
DnD
WM LT-15G25 w/PwrFeed, Mahindra 3510, Polaris Ranger XP, Husky 385xp, Stihl MS261 and a wife who supports my hobby!!

Offline jander3

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 540
  • Age: 53
  • Location: Red Wing, Minnesota
  • Gender: Male
    • Peeling Logs
Re: Log wall farm stand
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2012, 11:05:51 am »
Welcome,

You could stack and stake the logs into a wall.  In general, I don't care for that construction.

1/2 Dovetail log construction, is easy to learn and reasonably quick.   These buildings are designed such that you need to chink the gap.   



  

 

Here is a link that shows you how to layout a 1/2 dovetail:
http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2011/06/12-dovetail-layout.html

1/2 dovetail sauna plan:
http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2011/06/12-dovetail-sauna-design.html

Timber framing or Piece en Piece construction are other building options that use timbers or logs.

Jon
www.peelinglogs.blogspot.com
TK-1200
Timber Framing/Log Cabin Building

Offline tyb525

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 3342
  • Age: 22
  • Location: Eastern Indiana
  • Gender: Male
  • Always learning.
Re: Log wall farm stand
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2012, 12:33:05 pm »
Farmer Frye, good question. Regardless of whether you use your method, or Jander3's, you will need to chink the gaps. If you lay cants on top of each other like you describe, you just won't be able to keep the straight enough to prevent gaps. So rather than trying to keep gaps closed, I would put chinking in between them.

Chinking is mud and grass/fiber, or oakum. Basically a mortar to fill the gaps.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Log_cabin
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Seems I do more construction work than sawmill work these days.

Offline Magicman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 20883
  • Age: 71
  • Location: Brookhaven, Ms.
  • Gender: Male
  • A "Traveling Man"
Re: Log wall farm stand
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2012, 07:49:48 pm »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum FarmerFrye.   :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic/Lombardini/Kohler

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline dave_dj1

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 62
  • I'm new!
Re: Log wall farm stand
« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2012, 07:15:27 pm »
If you mill the logs yourself, take the time to use a router and put a 3/8" groove in the center of each log so you can install a spline, maybe even two with some foam snake in between. It will help stop the air and water and make it over all a better product.