Author Topic: building mill with pictures (Read 5643 times)

steve phillips · « **on:** February 07, 2012, 01:38:55 pm »

plowboyswr · « **Reply #1 on:** February 07, 2012, 02:42:50 pm »

Comin together, your helper seems to be inspecting the welds

keep the pics coming.

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #2 on:** February 07, 2012, 02:50:27 pm »

Steve's just getting some LAB-WORK done.

Your work looks good and like PlowBoy says, keep the pics coming!

steve phillips · « **Reply #3 on:** February 07, 2012, 05:03:39 pm »

howdy all
yeah my welding inspector is hard on me , watches every move i make.
the way the axles are set in the picture look like it will take 184 inch blade , now thats me by my self measuring . is this too long ?
on the blade tightner what is a good adjment amount 3-4 inches
steve

EZ · « **Reply #4 on:** February 07, 2012, 05:45:59 pm »

My mill will take a 14ft 3inch up to 14ft 10 inch.
I order 14ft 6inch

Busy Beaver Lumber · « **Reply #5 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:12:09 pm »

Nice rims holding those tires. Looks like a fancy and expensive factory upgrade to me

steve phillips · « **Reply #6 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:24:36 pm »

howdy busy beaver
they were free , a man had them couldnt sell them so he gave them to me .

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #7 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:25:45 pm »

Quote from: Busy Beaver Lumber on February 07, 2012, 06:12:09 pm

Nice rims holding those tires. Looks like a fancy and expensive factory upgrade to me

Yeah, I was thinking the same. I would polish them nice and purdy and put plexi-glass blade guards on to show them off.

Steve, 3-4 inches should be fine. By my research, most mills have or need only 1-2 inches. I went a little extreme with about 8 inches. Oh, I'm using 18'6" blades. Most blade manufactures will make them to the size you need, and will probably ask you if you want them indexed on the short or long side, to keep the tooth spacing equal.

steve phillips · « **Reply #8 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:28:25 pm »

hmmm plexi- glass not a bad idea . i am always open to opions

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #9 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:41:34 pm »

Steve, I was really just kidding about the Plexi. If you really wanted to use clear guards, maybe something stronger like Lexan- Plexi has a tendency to shatter.

Bill Gaiche · « **Reply #10 on:** February 07, 2012, 07:54:27 pm »

Nice going steve. Keep the photos comming. bg

steve phillips · « **Reply #11 on:** February 11, 2012, 10:34:15 am »

howdy all
well we went to get the wisconsin yesterday
lord have mercy , may have to add hyd after all . the motor weighs 260 pounds.
runs like a champ , its a 18 hp model tjd ,sounds like it going to have plenty of power to pull the mill , and these old motors have touque out the ying yang.
will post some pictures this evening

beenthere · « **Reply #12 on:** February 11, 2012, 11:48:50 am »

steve
Would be nice if you combined your sawmill build into one thread so the story fits together. Also the subject line can be worded such that the "Search" engine will pick out your story.

Just a suggestion, as you have a number of threads on your interesting venture. Hope we can keep up.

steve phillips · « **Reply #13 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:59:10 pm »

hey beenthere
your right didnt think of that ,duh i could have had a v8

heres some

pics

steve phillips · « **Reply #14 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:03:26 pm »

hey all
heres the engine pic

Ironwood · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:05:26 pm »

OK,

I have a question about that motor. I bought a 2 cylinder Wisconsin at a sale, it has electric start, built in fuel tank, and a rockford clutch. Would this be a the same as yours. When you first listed the model # I thought it meant a 4 cylinder, but I can see from your picture it is two. Perhaps mine is the same 18HP as well. Neat little self contained power source. It is also about hte same weight (I keep it on a pallet for storage, too heavy to handle alone)

Ironwood

Al_Smith · « **Reply #16 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:05:58 pm »

Hmm .I have a Wisconsin twin myself but I think it's a 16 HP with no clutch just bare engine .I can lift it but it's a heavy rascal .

Al_Smith · « **Reply #17 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:16:01 pm »

Okay now Wisconsin experts .I have I think a VE4 Wisconsin with a 3 to one in line reduction unit .I'd prefer it just to be direct drive for two reasons .

One the reduction is such I'd just about need to run about the same sized pulley on the engine as the bandsaw drive to get the correct speed .

Number two the reduction unit reverses the direction of rotation of the crankshaft .And three it adds a lot of weight to an already heavy power unit .

Now the question is what exactly do I need to rid this thing of the reduction unit .End bell or something ? I have no experiance with Wisconsin reduction units .

Ironwood · « **Reply #18 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:17:29 pm »

OK, now my curiousity is perked, I need to look at the tag,.....hmmmmm where did I put it?

?

Snow to boot, so I will go out later and find out .

I just could not pass it up. too nice for some remote power source for,.......sumptin. I dont know what but for sumptin. It was a fair price and had good compression.

ironwood

Ironwood

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #19 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:21:49 pm »

Nice engine Steve, should have plenty of torque with the long stoke. Shame that I just sold two of those twin cylinder Wisconsins, both electric start. One of them was off a reefer and had a centrifugal clutch and auto start. I 'believe' (but could be wrong) that most all of them were the same size. I still have some single cylinder 5HP and 8HP units, and a 60HP V-4. If any of you guys are thinking rebuild, I have some NOS rods, pistons, rings, bearings, and some gaskets for the twins.

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Author Topic: building mill with pictures (Read 5643 times)