Breaking the new WPF

[Qweaver]

Hi, well things were going well.  I was starting to feel comfortable with the saw and we were on the last row of cuts.  The frame was about 1/4" above the limit switch and when I rotated the saw at the end of the forward cut...the blade hit the skid cross member.  I had checked this clearance with the blade vertical and did not think that the blade could hit.
I had planned to make a tip soldering jig but I may have to send this blade out.  Do you
peterson owners have a list of people that can do these blade repairs.  I'm a little surprised that the limit switch is not set to keep this from happening.  I will probably make that change to the mill.  I read through the manual several times and if there is a warning about that, I must have missed it.   Bummer!  Luckly I have 2 extra blades for the saw so I'm not shut down.
PS:  I really like cutting with this saw
Quinton

[scsmith42]

Quinton, I've never hit a cross member, but I have broken some chains by running the sawhead all the way down to the stop...

Re the retipping fixture, the jig is fairly simple, and something that an old welding instructor can probably cobble together...

If you want, I can send you some photo's and dimensions from mine.

[Qweaver]

It would be great if you can do that Scott.  No use re-inventing a tool. 
I'm kind of disappointed that the limit switch was not set so the blade can not hit.

[scsmith42]

It would be great if you can do that Scott.  No use re-inventing a tool. 
I'm kind of disappointed that the limit switch was not set so the blade can not hit.

Your's must be more high tech than mine - I don't even have a limit switch (but wish that I did).  Shouldn't be too hard to add one.

I'll take some pix and e-mail them to you.

[Ianab]

While I haven't done it myself it's only luck, I've missed the cross-member by a fraction of an inch. There was no sawdust left on it.   

The problem is that the blade has to dip below the cutting height to actually swivel, and anything you do to lock out the swivel will limit how low you can actually cut, especially if it's a big log sitting on the ground. The cross-member can also be placed in different locations depending on the log, terrain, extension tracks etc

I try and set up with either the cross-members close up to the log, or right at the end of the track. That way you can't actually flip the blade over top of it. Once you are clear of the log, you are also clear of the cross-member, or else you hit the track end stops before you reach it. Sometimes, different size logs, obstructions or terrain make this tricky and you just need to be careful.

Making a set of taller log bunks helps too. If the bottom of the log is 4" above the lower stops you never get down to the level where you can hit the cross-member.

Either way, now you know what the "Zing" noise sounds like. It's sort of the same a sawing into your log clamp with a band mill 

Ian

[terrifictimbersllc]

For re-tipping from your area, I recommend calling  BH Payne ask for Bobby Richardson.  You'll send the blade to Northport, Alabama.   Good price for retipping and their UPS shipping was very economical, turnaround and job quality is great.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I try and set up with either the cross-members close up to the log, or right at the end of the track. That way you can't actually flip the blade over top of it. Once you are clear of the log, you are also clear of the cross-member, or else you hit the track end stops before you reach it. Sometimes, different size logs, obstructions or terrain make this tricky and you just need to be careful.

This is very good advice.  Am thinking also laying  a 1" oak board over the crossmember might be enough to keep from swinging into metal.  I always have one of these nearby anyway as ramps to get logs up onto the bunks.

P.S. Just noted your title, did you mean to leave out a word?    

[Qweaver]

Thanks for the info everyone.  I'm going to check exactly how far down the saw blade rotates.  I think that setting to stop so that the saw can not hit is the best move.  But maybe that will limit how far down I can cut too much.  That can always be solved by setting the log higher on the bunks.  I'm using 6" bunks now.  8" bunks may have kept this from happening.
You can rest assured that I will know exactly where my blade makes contact with metal or ground before a new blade goes on the saw.
We thought we were doing so good before we heard that zinging sound.  I can tell you that the metal cross brace is a very efficient carbide remover 
Quinton

[Qweaver]

I checked the clearance as well as I could without a helper to rotate the blade as I measured.  The blade needs to be up at least 2" from lowest setting to miss the cross brace.  This makes me think that the blade could hit the ground (or concrete) I've got to find out for sure.  It's Sunday in NZ so this will have to wait until Monday. 
I also got the water flow figured out.  I really like the water valve they use.  I need to get one of those for the WM. 
It's going to take me awhile to learn the cutting process.

Well the first log is done.  I've learned several lessons...one was time consuming and expensive...there will be many more lessons to be learned...hopefully not as expensive.

I think I'll watch the video again before I saw.  I'm going to run electric to the saw shed this afternoon.  No more sawing fun for me today. 

[Ianab]

The blade wont hit the ground as you can only lower it to about 4" off the ground, so still 2" of clearance when you flip.

The cross members are off the ground of course, so it is possible to hit those.

It's not ideal, but if they limited the travel it would limit your ability to saw larger logs on the ground.

8" tall bunks would solve the problem as you would have to saw through those before you got close to the cross member.

Ian

[Qweaver]

I think putting a spacer to contact the limit switch before the point that the blade can hit the cross brace is the solution for me.  I can make that spacer swing out of the way when I want to saw lower and just be careful.  I can see this happening again unless I make some changes.  Definitely 8" bunks and my head screwed on straight.

BTW  It was so nice not having to turn that 32" white oak.  It was a much rougher cut than the band saw tho'.