dissapointed with wm

[wlf89]

never tried a wood mizer, so had them send me a blade to try, would not cut out of the box.
had to sharpen it after 1st slab, green pine at that.

anyone evey get a blade like this??

[Magicman]

No sir I have not.  Did you contact WM about it?

I also noticed that virtually every post that you have made you were complaining about blades breaking, etc.  You may very well have a sawmill alignment issue.

[cypresskayaksllc]

Call WM. They will make it right

[Jeff]

Yea, I have, when I dropped it in the gravel when trying to open it. That would be my fault though.

So, the title of the topic, was that just to draw attention? Was it really warranted for one blade that may have been sharp but perhaps the wrong pitch or profile for the wood on the mill?  Wood-Mizer is one of our great sponsors. They and the other companies on the left. They all deserve some consideration when you name a topic because with out them, the forum would not be here, you would not be able to ask for help from the thousands of years of combined experience here.

I hate to get on my soap box for such a new member, but this one kinda ground me the wrong way.  You deserve every consideration when asking for help with a problem or an answer to something like why that blade would not cut right out of the box, and the forum sponsors deserve the same in return.

[wlf89]

i have emailed them, will see what they say tommorow.


(quote)I hate to get on my soap box for such a new member, but this one kinda ground me the wrong way.  You deserve every consideration when asking for help with a problem or an answer to something like why that blade would not cut right out of the box, and the forum sponsors deserve the same in return.


i talked to them before ordering, they told me what would be best for softer woods and sent me a blade.
pitch and every thing else was alright, just wuuld not cut.

just wondering if anyone has ever got one from them
or any one else that would not cut..

i just thought is was strange for a big name like them
to send a dull blade.

[LeeB]

Wouldn't cut at all, cut poorly, dip or rise, tell us what would not cut is describing.

[wlf89]

i am 99% sure there is nothing wrong with the mill.
thats why i ordered a  blade from a different company.
i have checked and triple checked, and set it up to the book.

No sir I have not.  Did you contact WM about it?

I also noticed that virtually every post that you have made you were complaining about blades breaking, etc.  You may very well have a sawmill alignment issue.

[wlf89]

it would cut straight, just real slow. like it has cut 5 to 600 feet already. almost had to forse it through. after i sharpend it, it ziped right through.



\

Wouldn't cut at all, cut poorly, dip or rise, tell us what would not cut is describing.

[Okrafarmer]

Umm, not to be smart, but-- you wouldn't be the first one to put a blade on backward. I've done it before.     Did you check to make sure the teeth are going in the right direction? Sometimes the blades come from the manufacturer bound inside-out and you have to flip them right-side out to use them.

[Okrafarmer]

Oh, sorry, didn't see the last post. I guess that wasn't the problem....

[wlf89]

no, that is just how i felt. like a bad first inpression.
but im sure they will make it right.

[quote author=Jeff link=topic=55862.msg808503#msg808503 date=1327893

So, the title of the topic, was that just to draw attention?

[tyb525]

Maybe you got the wrong angle blade, and when you resharpened it you put it to the angle you usually use? Just a thought..

I've bought 30 blades from WM, 15- 10 degree, and 10-7 degree, and didn't have trouble with any of them.

[ladylake]

 Maybe you hit some dirt or a small rock right away, that's happened before.   Steve

[inspectorwoody]

I have an antique grinder but this is what it says in the manual.

"It is recommended that new blades be sharpened before using. When the blades are manufactured, they are sharpened and then set. The setting process twists the face angle out as much as 7 degrees. Sharpening a new blade with the face angle scale set at '0' will true up the face angle of all the teeth to 90 degrees. You should not have to grind any material from the gullet on the first sharpening."

Not sure if this same thing applies today with all the new technology but I'd like to think so and I'll do just what it says before I use a new one.

[Chuck White]

Don't mean to step on any toes.

This really sounds like the blade was inverted.  Right out of the box, wouldn't cut, then taken off and touched up, reinstalled, then it cut really good, who's to say how many times it was flipped!

I might be wrong but I feel just like what okrafarmer said in the beginning of his first post.

I have put a blade on backwards myself, but I noticed it when I was putting the covers on.  I'm sure that was like a "test question" back when my FIL was sharpening blades for me! 

[Kansas]

I had to laugh when I read Jeff's post about the gravel. We used to have a guy work for us where his favorite method to uncoil a blade was to find a concrete pad and throw the coiled blade up into the air.

He doesn't work for us anymore.

I haven't cut a lot of pine, but not all pine is equal. Some is a lot harder than others. Might be they sent one hook angle, and then you sharpened to a more correct hook angle for what you were cutting. You may have also set it differently. First thing when we get blades, including WM, is oftentimes give them more set when we are cutting fuzzy cottonwood. I don't think any manufacturer sends out blades at 35 or 40 thousands per side.

[kevinlt15]

(QUOTE) This really sounds like the blade was inverted.  Right out of the box, wouldn't cut, then taken off and touched up, reinstalled, then it cut really good, who's to say how many times it was flipped!

I will admit that I have done that   only when there is A bunch of onlookers and neibors watching    

woodmizer is A great companygive them A call.

[Buck]

Inside out is the only way I've ever had a blade not cut at all.  Even my dull ones cut better than what the op described.

[ladylake]

 He made the first slab with the blade, no way would that get done with a blade on backwards.  I'd bet on hitting some derbis.   Steve

[ladylake]

I have an antique grinder but this is what it says in the manual.

"It is recommended that new blades be sharpened before using. When the blades are manufactured, they are sharpened and then set. The setting process twists the face angle out as much as 7 degrees. Sharpening a new blade with the face angle scale set at '0' will true up the face angle of all the teeth to 90 degrees. You should not have to grind any material from the gullet on the first sharpening."

Not sure if this same thing applies today with all the new technology but I'd like to think so and I'll do just what it says before I use a new one.

 Quite a few new blades are just stamped out then set but cut fine that way, some manufactors do sharpen thier new blades.    Steve