Convert to electric ?'s lt30

[raycon]

I started first by shopping (gas) motor upgrades then looked at what I have in parts laying around. My goal is to get as much HP to the blade as possible without hacking up the machine.

I have an industrial 10kw generator and and a 10hp electric motor (1728 rpm 220v 25amps). Would that be suitable power for a lt30? (Its an older machine built I think in 1989 --which came with a 13 hp gas motor originally -- when I bought it I was given  a few extra gas motors -- all dead -- the one I have on it now is burning oil bad. )

I don't know if its fact or fiction but is an electric motor twice as efficient as a gas motor? Meaning that if I put a 10hp electric motor on the mill it may have the same results as a gas motor approaching 20hp?

On the electric mills is the blade drive the same? Seems like with AC power source its either on or off(no variable speed drive) ? Will belt slippage be more of an issue?  Due you just turn the motor off when finishing the cut? At this time I only disengage the drive to rotate the log.

Besides environmental considerations (my mill is outside) is there something else I overlooked?


Thanks

[D._Frederick]

Ray,

The rule of thumb is : 1 hp electric = 2 1/2 gas engine. Your 10 hp motor requires 40-45 amps @ 220 volts. Your 10 kw generator will not start your 10 hp motor. You can not stop and start this motor for every cut if it is single phase, it will over heat the starting windings resulting in burn-out. You will have to get the correct diameter pulleys to get the right speed for the blade. If you get correct pulleys, slippage should not be a problem. I would not like to work with electrical equipment in the rain.

[raycon]

The one thing I don't do in the rain is run the mill --I already hate welding outdoors after its rained/raining.

If its that efficient I could drop the electric motor size?

How does the math workout? Power= V*I  =220*45 = 9.9KW.  The 10hp motors tag reads 25.4 amps at full load. Are you doubling the amps for startup requirements -- or is the tag misleading.

The generator has an instantaneous peak current of 75 amps. (Winco 27hp dual fuel generator -- I forget the KW rating-- I always assumed it was 10kw could be higher )

So I'd run the mill the way I mill now. I never power down. I only disengage the clutch when positioning logs etc?

Not like I'd shut the generator off its just that I'd think with the motor running full speed no load clutch disengaged I'd still get enough friction to spin the bandwheels that's a concern? Positive brake added to bandwheels?

--
On edit the generator outputs both 1&3 phase.
The motor I read the current rating off of might have been a 1phase/3phase since most of my shop equipment is 3phase. That could explain the 25amp rating -- I might have been reading the 3phase rating.

[D._Frederick]

Ray,

WoodMizer had powered there early mill with 15hp motors, I don't think you would be happy with going below 10hp. If it was mine, before doing anything, I would wire the motor up enough that I could see if the generator would start it with out load.  Depending on the motor windings and the load, it takes at least 200% of running current to start motors. Your motor that is rated @ 25amps is three phase.    
Your mill has a slip belt type clutch and you should keep this feature so that you can stop the blade without with out stopping the motor. If you leave your blade running between cut, you will not get any blade life. The later mills have a brake to stop the blade from coasting.

If your generator will start your motor with no-load, I would just get the correct belt pulleys and run it with the generator if you are away from a 3 phase source. You can get a 10 hp single phase motor if you don't have 3 phase.

If you can get 3 phase service, that 10 hp motor will be like nite/day difference from your 13 hp gas. Your generator power will be slightly less.

[Furby]

D.
Do you happen to know the specs. on WM 10hp motor on the LT15. I've been meaning to get ahold of them but haven't yet.

[D._Frederick]

Furby,

I can't help you on motor spec's, better talk to WM.

[Furby]

Ok, I was going to anyways, sooooooooo......

[raycon]

I asked woodmizer a few questions about it.

For the 10hp single phase (220V) they recommended a outlet fused at 40amps. The 10hp that comes with the lt15 runs at 3450 rpms peak -- they recommend a starter box.

For the 10hp 3phase (208-230 or 460 volts) -- 25amps --13 amp draw full load.

You want to run a 3450 rpm motor to maintain the same mechanical advantage through the drives to the bandwheel.

I did not get a feel for what the mill will perform like with a 10hp electric motor on it -- that is expect the saw to perform like a 15hp gas powered motor etc..
I have 40amp fused outlets for welding might give it a try without the generator. Probably won't happen till late summer the way I'm going though.
---

[Furby]

Thanks Ray!
So I take it the 10 hp on the LT15 is 120 volt?

[D._Frederick]

Furby,

The 10 hp single phase is 220 volts only, The 10 hp 3 phase can be either 220 or 440 volts or 208 volts.

[Furby]

Ok, thanks!

[ADfields]

Furby, on 110volts you wont find a motor much over 3 horse.
Andy

[Furby]

Actually, I've found a LOT of 5hp 110. I called a couple of shops last summer looking for a 10 hp 1 phase. One guy told me he could make a 220 for me but they don't make anything over 3 hp for 110. I told him I found some 5 hp 110, he didn't belive me until he looked through some of his books for about five minutes, sure enough.